TommyDee
Vaporitor
It is the little things that make this process interesting. I am now convinced that wet-working this wood is for very specialized work. My 5-1/4" long daily driver had its first honey-clog. That just tickles me to no end to have reached this milestone. This stem, due to its shape, is warped. Yet, when spinning it, it is just a little wobble. You'd know it was -off- but not exactly know why. Just one of its many nuanced personalities.
Another aspect that I will change in this process is when to make the receiving hole for the VC. I've been doing this in the green along with the 5/32" through hole but somewhat haphazardly knowing I will provide truing cuts with the found - cool-tool that hand-reams the VC port very nicely. Having this pre-drilled helps with making the blank for extra turning torque while stripping the bark layers and getting a reasonably true running cylinder to the bore. Running only on centers w/ friction drive makes for some work to get it round. I might opt for a shallower counter-bore to be trimmed before making the official VC port after curing for a week. Not all blanks can be made fully cylindrical. For those, I turn to remove 80% of the sub-surface. And remaining bark pulp is removed. I am aware that the stress profile will be slightly different while curing, but so far, the cured stems are very predictable. If the difference in full diameters is too great, I can cure with steps in the diameters also. The remaining diameters are based on the lack of precision by which I can core the raw stalks by hand and sight.
With these changes in mind, I am also able to improve the post cure process. First things first, re-true the blank. I run the 5/32" drill-bit back through the center. Now, running between center, I need to remove any warp. Typically this is well under a millimeter. With a cylinder true to the bore, I can use the 3-jaw chuck to face and finish the hole for the mouthpiece; swap ends and face the VC-port and drill the hole. I got a short 8mm drill-bit for the VC port. When freshly cut it fits perfectly on the 5/16" mandrel in the collet. I am drilling 6.5mm deep at the shoulder of the bit. This method limits the blank length but improves alignment significantly. I might have to make a super-short 8mm drill-bit for very long stems. I do have a bed-length limitation but the setup is becoming more defined as I move forward. All the critical elements are now more manageable.
More importantly, I just finished 2 stems that were sanded from a cylinder rather than rough shaping. These were both cured and re-trued. Curing doesn't seem to affect the sand-to-form process. Most of the shaping is done with 100 and 180 grit. 240 to force the details, and finished off with 320, 400, 600, and a felt buffing. A dab of linseed oil and a stem is born;
Is this what you were thinking @Planck ?
Another aspect that I will change in this process is when to make the receiving hole for the VC. I've been doing this in the green along with the 5/32" through hole but somewhat haphazardly knowing I will provide truing cuts with the found - cool-tool that hand-reams the VC port very nicely. Having this pre-drilled helps with making the blank for extra turning torque while stripping the bark layers and getting a reasonably true running cylinder to the bore. Running only on centers w/ friction drive makes for some work to get it round. I might opt for a shallower counter-bore to be trimmed before making the official VC port after curing for a week. Not all blanks can be made fully cylindrical. For those, I turn to remove 80% of the sub-surface. And remaining bark pulp is removed. I am aware that the stress profile will be slightly different while curing, but so far, the cured stems are very predictable. If the difference in full diameters is too great, I can cure with steps in the diameters also. The remaining diameters are based on the lack of precision by which I can core the raw stalks by hand and sight.
With these changes in mind, I am also able to improve the post cure process. First things first, re-true the blank. I run the 5/32" drill-bit back through the center. Now, running between center, I need to remove any warp. Typically this is well under a millimeter. With a cylinder true to the bore, I can use the 3-jaw chuck to face and finish the hole for the mouthpiece; swap ends and face the VC-port and drill the hole. I got a short 8mm drill-bit for the VC port. When freshly cut it fits perfectly on the 5/16" mandrel in the collet. I am drilling 6.5mm deep at the shoulder of the bit. This method limits the blank length but improves alignment significantly. I might have to make a super-short 8mm drill-bit for very long stems. I do have a bed-length limitation but the setup is becoming more defined as I move forward. All the critical elements are now more manageable.
More importantly, I just finished 2 stems that were sanded from a cylinder rather than rough shaping. These were both cured and re-trued. Curing doesn't seem to affect the sand-to-form process. Most of the shaping is done with 100 and 180 grit. 240 to force the details, and finished off with 320, 400, 600, and a felt buffing. A dab of linseed oil and a stem is born;
Is this what you were thinking @Planck ?
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Hand delivery no less. 
Food coloring sounds like a simple means. Apparently there are dies to use in your favorite protective finish. I'll save the $20 for now. I'll try the food coloring since it can't hurt.
For a stem I expect a drop or two would be plenty.
This will become my daily driver for a bit.
What say you?
