simplywonderful
Well-Known Member
Wondering about your experiences guys
Is cooling of the vapor worth it? is glycerine coolable/freezable coil for this purpose worth it?
- Thread starter simplywonderful
- Start date
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
cooling of the vapor is pretty critical really, as ~200 degrees Celsius is roughly the target temp, and is quite hot.
Some vapes will have inbuilt cooling units, others will have various length vapor paths - differences that result in varying heat signatures from each vape. Some vapes, like the Grasshopper, do not have much vapor path beyond the heater, and so the heat signature is extreme. It really is best to avoid direct contact with the vape when using it.
Others, like the Mighty, have inbuilt cooling pathways in the vapor path, and this makes them incredibly more tolerable for direct draw.
It pays to cool the vapor down. Better flavor, smoother hits.
I've been using this big Sublimator dry tube recently with a few different vapes (Sub, Grasshopper, StemPod [combusted on me
]). And, it's really nice having substantial cooling options.
Generally I'll use a waterpipe, I've been tending to a little glass torus oil rig. But a dry set up is a must have. Substantial cooling, but still unfiltered. It's important to be able to mix it up, and quite enjoyable to understand what I'm on about by jumping on board.
There's been a bit of a movement towards deformed glass tubes as cooling stems recently
**
But there are plenty of options, and chilled glycerine is a baller way to go.
What are you vaping with?
**http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/cooling-stems-for-splinter-stempod-tubo-lil-bud-mil.34133/
I nabbed that last pic from @HughJundys - his thread is worth a look, and is due introduction to a sweet glycerine set up. Here's a cool example from Aus
Some vapes will have inbuilt cooling units, others will have various length vapor paths - differences that result in varying heat signatures from each vape. Some vapes, like the Grasshopper, do not have much vapor path beyond the heater, and so the heat signature is extreme. It really is best to avoid direct contact with the vape when using it.
Others, like the Mighty, have inbuilt cooling pathways in the vapor path, and this makes them incredibly more tolerable for direct draw.
It pays to cool the vapor down. Better flavor, smoother hits.
I've been using this big Sublimator dry tube recently with a few different vapes (Sub, Grasshopper, StemPod [combusted on me
]). And, it's really nice having substantial cooling options.Generally I'll use a waterpipe, I've been tending to a little glass torus oil rig. But a dry set up is a must have. Substantial cooling, but still unfiltered. It's important to be able to mix it up, and quite enjoyable to understand what I'm on about by jumping on board.
There's been a bit of a movement towards deformed glass tubes as cooling stems recently
**
But there are plenty of options, and chilled glycerine is a baller way to go.
What are you vaping with?
**http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/cooling-stems-for-splinter-stempod-tubo-lil-bud-mil.34133/
I nabbed that last pic from @HughJundys - his thread is worth a look, and is due introduction to a sweet glycerine set up. Here's a cool example from Aus
Last edited:
howie105
Well-Known Member
Its an individual preference thing, I like to use a dry stem vape for most of my solo use and save the glass for company. I get the tastiest hits dry but it makes some folks cough so out comes the glass. If you are interested in a piece of kit buy it, you can always roll it over if you don't like it.
simplywonderful
Well-Known Member
the vapcap coolers are quite nice! did you had them custom made?
Im using mighty and I wanted to buy a righ with glycerine coil and use it frozen and dry. But Im wondering, sometimes rig with ice did not hit me as strong as rig with boiling water(yes boiled steamy water lol)
Im using mighty and Im planning to buy a vapcap, I would like to use glass tube like you have, I know it would cool the vapor sufficiently by itself. But got to try that glycerice rig
Im using mighty and I wanted to buy a righ with glycerine coil and use it frozen and dry. But Im wondering, sometimes rig with ice did not hit me as strong as rig with boiling water(yes boiled steamy water lol)
Im using mighty and Im planning to buy a vapcap, I would like to use glass tube like you have, I know it would cool the vapor sufficiently by itself. But got to try that glycerice rig
cooling of the vapor is pretty critical really, as ~200 degrees Celsius is roughly the target temp, and is quite hot.
Some vapes will have inbuilt cooling units, others will have various length vapor paths - differences that result in varying heat signatures from each vape. Some vapes, like the Grasshopper, do not have much vapor path beyond the heater, and so the heat signature is extreme. It really is best to avoid direct contact with the vape when using it.
Others, like the Mighty, have inbuilt cooling pathways in the vapor path, and this makes them incredibly more tolerable for direct draw.
It pays to cool the vapor down. Better flavor, smoother hits.
I've been using this big Sublimator dry tube recently with a few different vapes (Sub, Grasshopper, StemPod [combusted on me
Generally I'll use a waterpipe, I've been tending to a little glass torus oil rig. But a dry set up is a must have. Substantial cooling, but still unfiltered. It's important to be able to mix it up, and quite enjoyable to understand what I'm on about by jumping on board.
There's been a bit of a movement towards deformed glass tubes as cooling stems recently
**
But there are plenty of options, and chilled glycerine is a baller way to go.
What are you vaping with?
**http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/cooling-stems-for-splinter-stempod-tubo-lil-bud-mil.34133/
I nabbed that last pic from @HughJundys - his thread is worth a look, and is due introduction to a sweet glycerine set up. Here's a cool example from Aus
Thats a very good point I will give it a try, I want to use the rig without water, just cooled glycerine tube
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
the vapcap coolers are quite nice! did you had them custom made?
Im using mighty and I wanted to buy a righ with glycerine coil and use it frozen and dry. But Im wondering, sometimes rig with ice did not hit me as strong as rig with boiling water(yes boiled steamy water lol)
Im using mighty and Im planning to buy a vapcap, I would like to use glass tube like you have, I know it would cool the vapor sufficiently by itself. But got to try that glycerice rig
That's just a photo I found online - I don't actually have one like it, but it's become a popular design lots of small vape manufacturers are beginning to offer.
If you have the Mighty and are looking to use alternate cooling methods, it might be worthwhile using a direct glass outlet rather than the cooling chamber
(something like a universal Mighty WPA):
You could then attach an 18mm female glass joint glycerine (or hydra) tube for a cool and direct draw with glass vapour path.
I reckon it would be super nice.
On the topic of ice in the waterpipe - that'll rapidly cool and condense the vapour and you will lose proportionately more actives to the sidewalls of the glass piece. (this is why I'd recommend going with a direct outlet).
A glycerine coil will have a similar thing going on as compared with the plastic maze the Mighty uses by default. But you could also warm up the glycerine so it promotes less condensation.
simplywonderful
Well-Known Member
Hi so if I get it right, the cold coil from fridge or freezer would promote condensation of the actives on the walls of the right or coil ? I remember trying the rig filled with ice and the effects were much more lower than with regular cooling unit hit. By direct outlet, what kind of setup do you mean by that? thank you very much have a beautiful day everyone reading this threadThat's just a photo I found online - I don't actually have one like it, but it's become a popular design lots of small vape manufacturers are beginning to offer.
If you have the Mighty and are looking to use alternate cooling methods, it might be worthwhile using a direct glass outlet rather than the cooling chamber
(something like a universal Mighty WPA):
You could then attach an 18mm female glass joint glycerine (or hydra) tube for a cool and direct draw with glass vapour path.
I reckon it would be super nice.
On the topic of ice in the waterpipe - that'll rapidly cool and condense the vapour and you will lose proportionately more actives to the sidewalls of the glass piece. (this is why I'd recommend going with a direct outlet).
A glycerine coil will have a similar thing going on as compared with the plastic maze the Mighty uses by default. But you could also warm up the glycerine so it promotes less condensation.
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-j-hook-thread.11215/page-11#post-1362324
Just posted about this one in the j hook thread,google spiral hand pipe. I found mine locally and use it with rose soap much better work than glycerine,cause it is denser.
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
Yes - colder cooling adapters will cause more reclaim build up, at least theoretically. In the real world, reclaim is unavoidable, so it's not really the biggest deal using cool gear over warm gear, but it will make a difference. It's perhaps worth considering the dynamics, but it's mainly fun to mix them up from time to time, as that almost certainly leads to different flavour profiles and overall signatures from the same vape units and flower.Hi so if I get it right, the cold coil from fridge or freezer would promote condensation of the actives on the walls of the right or coil ? I remember trying the rig filled with ice and the effects were much more lower than with regular cooling unit hit. By direct outlet, what kind of setup do you mean by that? thank you very much have a beautiful day everyone reading this thread
The only real way to know is to test
And whatever takes your fancy, dial it in and make it repeatable, and share your findings!
I was reading this morning about @JoeKickass using a plenty coil with the Grasshopper - sounds like it's a great option, but could be fragile. It could be a viable option for the Mighty too.
Overall, his post highlights the success of finding how cooling makes a very big difference to the overall experience. If you get the cooling right, you have a better time, it's as simple as that.
By direct outlet, I mean the direct vapour output of the herb chamber. With the Mighty/Crafty, it requires a 3rd party adapter to be able to tap into the direct source, with some other vapes like the GH and I guess the Air/Solo and more - the chamber/vapour outlet is already able to be directly accessed.
Ideally, the best method of cooling for efficacy would be to have the shortest and most effective unfiltered cooling adapter. You want the smallest surface area with the best heat-sinking abilities. Glass freezable glycerine coils are potentially able to offer this in a nice simple package. But you'd want to attach it directly to the Mighty chamber with the glass WPA 3rd party adapter so you don't needlessly lose actives to the pre-existing cooling adapter.
This is the same with attaching the Mighty, or really any vape, to a bong.
You want the chamber to be as close as possible to your lungs whilst being able to breathe the full potential clouds in comfort.
So, if you grab a glycerine coil with a 18mm* female glass ground joint and the adapter, you can set up and transport easily, and get to testing
eg.: https://www.dhgate.com/product/phoe...tcher/415896360.html?skuid=475435601038139392
*you could also select 14mm adapters, which work better as a mouthpiece IME
Last edited:
It is all a matter of what you like. I like chillers. I have one in the freezer, but I haven't pulled the chiller out for a least a year. Also, try hot water from the tap. This is a tip @lwien shared years ago. The hot water seems to condition the air with moisture and really enhances the hit. This I do all the time. To me, it seems the chilled hit is dry compared to the other. Try it all ways: use it all ways - maximize fun!
lwien
Well-Known Member
Critical for you Molten but it may not be critical for someone else. Some people are more sensitive to this kind of heat than others. For me, the only vaporizer that I had a heat issue with is the MFLB because of it's extremely short vapor path. With the LSV using the standard wand, the vapor path is long enough where heat is not an issue but not so long that taste and potency are majorly affected. Same thing when hitting my MV through a sherlock.
For me, taste is a priority and is one of the reason why I don't like the Ghost. The Ghost provides the coolest vapor I've ever had but it accomplishes this by using a very long vapor path squished down into a small space. That long vapor path, while cooling the vapor also reduces the taste as well as the potency being that there is more surface area for condensation to take place. Same thing goes for water. When filtering through water, even when using low diffusion, taste and potency will take a hit but........if you're sensitive to heat, this trade-off may be worthwhile. For me, it isn't.
What I do like to do every once in a while is filer through very warm, almost hot water. Yeah, taste and potency takes a bit of a hit but that warm water moisturizes the vapor to such a degree, that it allows my lungs to take in a much larger hit to help compensate for the loss of potency. You know when doctors tell you to get into a warm shower when you have a cold and you're lungs are congested and to breath in the stem to open up your air ways? Well, vaping through warm water has the exact same effect. It just allows you to take a bigger hit without coughing.
And that quote^^, for me, says it all.
Last edited:
MinnBobber
Well-Known Member
Is cooling the vapor worth it?
For me, on a 10 point scale, cooling the vapor is a 2.
Moisturizing the vapor is a 10.
The vapor is extremely dry but not hot---when compared to a burning joint.
You're down near the end of that joint and that 1000 F glow is 1" from your mouth.
Vapor often starts out at 400 F and has longer path.
But I often do start a session with a long glass mouthpiece at lower temps, so that long airpath does cool the vapor, without
adding any moisture. That same load will then be finished at 445 thru a min diffusion hydratube with hot water. Emphasis on adding moisture but also cools.
For me, on a 10 point scale, cooling the vapor is a 2.
Moisturizing the vapor is a 10.
The vapor is extremely dry but not hot---when compared to a burning joint.
You're down near the end of that joint and that 1000 F glow is 1" from your mouth.
Vapor often starts out at 400 F and has longer path.
But I often do start a session with a long glass mouthpiece at lower temps, so that long airpath does cool the vapor, without
adding any moisture. That same load will then be finished at 445 thru a min diffusion hydratube with hot water. Emphasis on adding moisture but also cools.
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
Sorry to be a technical negative nancy, but, every vape has space between the heater and user because it's critically important to cool the vapour stream before inhalation...
The extent to which you reduce some of that heat energy dictates how much you'll enjoy the experience, it's not the only variable. Humidification is worthy of consideration as you say. But cooling is more important IME. As with anything it's all about balance.
If you toke straight from the end of a Sublimator it will stay attached for life. You need to use a cooling unit.
If you toke straight from the end of a hopper it just stings, it won't melt your lips because it's insulated. You should still use a cooling unit or expect to cough and hurt yourself.
The MFLB is nothing by comparison, but without a stem at all, I can't use it IME. The stem passively cools the vapour stream (incidentally they fit the Grasshopper silicone mouthpiece covers and make a massive difference with that device - I doubt it's possible to be closer to a convection heat exchanger than with the hopper)
I know others have said they prefer toking the MFLB sans stem, but it's not a convection vape so it's much cooler by the time they interact with the vapour. That distance is critical - they're toking on a wooden box, not the metallic screen heater.
I've blasted whole chambers in one breath with the Mighty and a 3rd party direct outlet glass adapter. It's a hybrid device with an airy hit and I used to smoke a tiny glass pipe, it's hardly a challenge, but the glass and rubber grommet were working in my favour and the distance between heater and lips is much greater than with the Grasshoppers metallic PFE.
Is the default cooler ample? Maybe? Regardless, it's crucially important.
If it's not ample (subjective), glycerine is a fair solution and I'd recommend it along with many other set ups.
Vapour is emitted directly from the plant material and needs to be cooled by travelling through a long path or a complex cooling unit.
The extent to which you reduce some of that heat energy dictates how much you'll enjoy the experience, it's not the only variable. Humidification is worthy of consideration as you say. But cooling is more important IME. As with anything it's all about balance.
If you toke straight from the end of a Sublimator it will stay attached for life. You need to use a cooling unit.
If you toke straight from the end of a hopper it just stings, it won't melt your lips because it's insulated. You should still use a cooling unit or expect to cough and hurt yourself.
The MFLB is nothing by comparison, but without a stem at all, I can't use it IME. The stem passively cools the vapour stream (incidentally they fit the Grasshopper silicone mouthpiece covers and make a massive difference with that device - I doubt it's possible to be closer to a convection heat exchanger than with the hopper)
I know others have said they prefer toking the MFLB sans stem, but it's not a convection vape so it's much cooler by the time they interact with the vapour. That distance is critical - they're toking on a wooden box, not the metallic screen heater.
I've blasted whole chambers in one breath with the Mighty and a 3rd party direct outlet glass adapter. It's a hybrid device with an airy hit and I used to smoke a tiny glass pipe, it's hardly a challenge, but the glass and rubber grommet were working in my favour and the distance between heater and lips is much greater than with the Grasshoppers metallic PFE.
Is the default cooler ample? Maybe? Regardless, it's crucially important.
If it's not ample (subjective), glycerine is a fair solution and I'd recommend it along with many other set ups.
MinnBobber
Well-Known Member
Absolutely, warm water will cool the vapor but also add more moisture, the critical addition.
Vaping starts out way cooler than combustion so cooling is a secondary need IME
C No Ego
Well-Known Member
the warm water method will increase cannabinoid absorption in you airways... heat opens up those linings and Cool closes them ... a warm moisture is preferable over a dry hot air .. not to much moisture but enough to condition the vapor
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
Cannabinoids innately have that property hence why eyes turn red under the influence, but yes it makes it nice and steamy using warm water and probably helps too. I don't think I get higher by changing water temp but I'm overdue a warm sesh. What really effects potency for me is drag length and cloud density
*pending tonights sesh, maybe I'll get nice warm bake on and be converted.
I know from most of the times I've done this, I get the temp perfect for the first hit or two, and then it cools down. It's a bit of effort to get it just right and the window quickly closes
Last edited:
C No Ego
Well-Known Member
yeah, I just use room temp all the time LOL... maybe a heater pad or coffee warmer to set the bubbler down on would keep the warm in there longer for the sesh
simplywonderful
Well-Known Member
I know remembered that I used to pour boiling water into my rig and I absolutely get more effects from it, I would like to try it, but Im not sure if it would help anything, boiling the coil for few minutes then adding it ? Goal is to have less condensation and less actives lost in the water. Not sure if its possible. Either way I would probably end up with just boiling water. Im wondering if heating pad or rod, or some kind of thing would make it easier and more convenient
nice idea !
C No Ego
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking the crocodile dundee movie where he takes the guys stash and dumps it into a bowl of hot water , puts a towel over his head to breathe it in and tells em its better LOL
simplywonderful
Well-Known Member
lol
You should try that, no wonder ancient greeks put herbs to their steam baths (they were vaping back then, more like vape boxin )btw did you tried it? from what I remember It really hits and it give you this nice lung expansion like brother b-real says
Last edited:
C No Ego
Well-Known Member
yeah man, I have not used that hot... just getting it into my bubbler without scalding would be a concern... hanging onto the bubbler too seems of issue since it is a small piece... I wonder if more cannabinoids could bond to the h2o if it's hotter and exciting those compounds more ? it could offer a stronger form of Decarb toolol
btw did you tried it? from what I remember It really hits and it give you this nice lung expansion like brother b-real says