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Discontinued Inhalater XP

Dark Kite

Well-Known Member
Hey my Inhalater lasted a few months, and it was great, but it eventually lost the ability to charge. It's been under a year since i purchased it, so i'm wondering how do I go about getting it replaced. I contacted them buy email, but to no response.
 
Dark Kite,

Vitolo

Vaporist
Patience.
Contact them by email again.
Sometimes email goes to junk folders.
Contact them by PM here as well.
We are all getting served, and you will not be singled out to receive slow service!
 
Vitolo,

vaplen

Well-Known Member
Has anyone recieved their indiegogo purchases? I bought a capsule like 2 months ago for 15 bucks and haven't heard a thing or recieved anything.
 
vaplen,

estelombo

Member
Yes I have been able to repair a unit that had suffered the same fate I believe... It appeared to begin it's normal start up but it wasn't able to heat so it would shut down at a period of time......
The trouble with attempting to work on these earlier batches... differing things were done to address issues along the way so you will very likely run into things being glued making disassembling near impossible without breaking something.......
There are additional things to be careful of like; cap w or w/o retaining screw, early versions of the ribbon cable very fragile.....yea you really need to understand how it was assembled and even then it is very easy to break it further or more completely......
Should you successfully gain access to the inside the only issue that I was actually able to repair was the issue where the heating chamber cannot heat because it has lost connection to the 1 or both of the posts it is soldered to...... and I can tell you it was a royal pain in the ass to get it to reattach with my small soldering iron {pencil}......now the sad news in my case I was able to finally after several failed attempts....I got it to stay soldered and it was now heating up while all apart on the bench in front of me.....yep thats correct.....once I attempted to reassemble the whole thing again.... I must have shorted something out..... I made sure by taking it all back apart again and the chamber had stayed connected and I had now broken it more or actually ...completely.....
I know how you feel.... and if it's out of warranty and you still wish to try.... I can give you a few things to watch out for while taking it apart if you like.....

I would like to recommend that you at least ask Greg to see if he feels he could possible repair it for you..... he has posted in the past that he has had a better track record repairing the earlier revision models and I think the INH1004 was even a bit better but I'm sure availability of still having or being able to get the older parts might be an issue...... Greg is your guy to give you the best coarse of action by far........so please give him a shout out at admin@inhalater.com
Hi

How did you actually get the heating element out of the unit??? Is it glued in?? I had a look and didnt wanna force it just in case
 
estelombo,

Old School

Vape13man
Hi

How did you actually get the heating element out of the unit??? Is it glued in?? I had a look and didnt wanna force it just in case
OK so I hope we are talking about a unit that is NOT under warranty any longer or Inhalater has told you they will not warranty it for whatever reason.....
The heating chamber slides out of the bottom just like the battery...after you have removed the switch cap and you were careful to lift {opposite the USB} the switch assembly out and let it flop to the outside and remove the battery..... up inside you will see a small spring....the chamber is directly above that...

So now you will need to push that entire white sleeve down and out the bottom....without a cap in it you should be able to see a small white ring {the top of the chamber sleeve} use something like a tool set socket or nut driver that will be able to fit inside the XP outer shell and still get a bite on the white ring...

Now you need to carefully with even pressure slide {push down} the entire white chamber sleeve..it will likely catch the edge at the bottom and hang up a little but it will push past the lip..... once that is out of the body shell you can now see a small circuit board at the base of the sleeve which is where the ribbon cable attaches....this will pop out of the chamber sleeve but I would NOT pull on anything to get it out of the sleeve..... but rather I would again push it out of the sleeve from the inside....maybe use a pencil with a good eraser on it so we don't damage anything...{eraser end down}....

Now you will have the heating chamber removed and be able to see the thicker pins that the chamber actually is soldered to.....

One of my two legs had lost a good connection.... and I had a heck of a time trying to get it to stay soldered......once I did it began to work again......but as I had posted.....be extra careful putting it all back together..... something else happened when I put mine all back together cause it worked 1 more time then that was it....back to the same issue but this time after taking it all apart again....expecting to find that my solder joint had failed again....well it was still good {checked it with Ohm meter}....

Btw if you have an Ohm meter....Greg can tell you what and where to Ohm things out to determine if this is even your issue.... I got the impression this was the most common failure for "not heating" issue but not the only cause....and I further got the impression that if it was something else like an electronic component then it was unrepairable.....

If it will still charge a battery then is can be used for that....which is what mine is now......
should you decide to make it a charger.... I would recommend just cutting a large notch where the USB slides in the body shell.....this makes it very easy to gain access to the battery.....mine works great...

Good Luck...... OH one last thing if you had the XP where a small screw secures the switch cap to the actual switch assembly....well that will need to be removed before popping the cap off.....:peace:
 
Old School,

estelombo

Member
OK s I hope we are talking about a unit that is NOT under warranty any longer or Inhalater has told you they will not warranty it for whatever reason.....
The heating chamber slides out of the bottom just like the battery...after you have removed the switch cap and you were careful to lift {opposite the USB} the switch assembly out and let it flop to the outside and remove the battery..... up inside you will see a small spring....the chamber is directly above that...

So now you will need to push that entire white sleeve down and out the bottom....without a cap in it you should be able to see a small white ring {the top of the chamber sleeve} use something like a tool set socket or nut driver that will be able to fit inside the XP outer shell and still get a bite on the white ring...

Now you need to carefully with even pressure slide {push down} the entire white chamber sleeve..it will likely catch the edge at the bottom and hang up a little but it will push past the lip..... once that is out of the body shell you can now see a small circuit board at the base of the sleeve which is where the ribbon cable attaches....this will pop out of the chamber sleeve but I would NOT pull on anything to get it out of the sleeve..... but rather I would again push it out of the sleeve from the inside....maybe use a pencil with a good eraser on it so we don't damage anything...{eraser end down}....

Now you will have the heating chamber removed and be able to see the thicker pins that the chamber actually is soldered to.....

One of my two legs had lost a good connection.... and I had a heck of a time trying to get it to stay soldered......once I did it began to work again......but as I had posted.....be extra careful putting it all back together..... something else happened when I put mine all back together cause it worked 1 more time then that was it....back to the same issue but this time after taking it all apart again....expecting to find that my solder joint had failed again....well it was still good {checked it with Ohm meter}....

Btw if you have an Ohm meter....Greg can tell you what and where to Ohm things out to determine if this is even your issue.... I got the impression this was the most common failure for "not heating" issue but not the only cause....and I further got the impression that if it was something else like an electronic component then it was unrepairable.....

If it will still charge a battery then is can be used for that....which is what mine is now......
should you decide to make it a charger.... I would recommend just cutting a large notch where the USB slides in the body shell.....this makes it very easy to gain access to the battery.....mine works great...

Good Luck...... OH one last thing if you had the XP where a small screw secures the switch cap to the actual switch assembly....well that will need to be removed before popping the cap off.....:peace:

Cheers dude!!!! Yea the unit Is out of warranty and Ive recently moved back to ireland from usa so im not gonna bother with international shipping etc.

ive since discovered the vapormax so this is more of a just give it a go and see what happens, i have an xp and an original inhalater and both are fucked so im just messing around with them
 
estelombo,

estelombo

Member
OK so I hope we are talking about a unit is hat is NOT under warranty any longer or Inhalater has told you they will not warranty it for whatever reason.....
The heating chamber slides out of the bottom just like the battery...after you have removed the switch cap and you were careful to lift {opposite the USB} the switch assembly out and let it flop to the outside and remove the battery..... up inside you will see a small spring....the chamber is directly above that...

So now you will need to push that entire white sleeve down and out the bottom....without a cap in it you should be able to see a small white ring {the top of the chamber sleeve} use something like a tool set socket or nut driver that will be able to fit inside the XP outer shell and still get a bite on the white ring...

Now you need to carefully with even pressure slide {push down} the entire white chamber sleeve..it will likely catch the edge at the bottom and hang up a little but it will push past the lip..... once that is out of the body shell you can now see a small circuit board at the base of the sleeve which is where the ribbon cable attaches....this will pop out of the chamber sleeve but I would NOT pull on anything to get it out of the sleeve..... but rather I would again push it out of the sleeve from the inside....maybe use a pencil with a good eraser on it so we don't damage anything...{eraser end down}....

Now you will have the heating chamber removed and be able to see the thicker pins that the chamber actually is soldered to.....

One of my two legs had lost a good connection.... and I had a heck of a time trying to get it to stay soldered......once I did it began to work again......but as I had posted.....be extra careful putting it all back together..... something else happened when I put mine all back together cause it worked 1 more time then that was it....back to the same issue but this time after taking it all apart again....expecting to find that my solder joint had failed again....well it was still good {checked it with Ohm meter}....

Btw if you have an Ohm meter....Greg can tell you what and where to Ohm things out to determine if this is even your issue.... I got the impression this was the most common failure for "not heating" issue but not the only cause....and I further got the impression that if it was something else like an electronic component then it was unrepairable.....

If it will still charge a battery then is can be used for that....which is what mine is now......
should you decide to make it a charger.... I would recommend just cutting a large notch where the USB slides in the body shell.....this makes it very easy to gain access to the battery.....mine works great...

Good Luck...... OH one last thing if you had the XP where a small screw secures the switch cap to the actual switch assembly....well that will need to be removed before popping the cap off.....:peace:
.......and none of this worked as the fucking led that sticks through the hole at the top Is preventin the chamber from comming out, and the white plastic part is so soft even when i put a socket into it it still manages to ram into the heating chamber, ripping it appart. This really is the worst designed and manufactured product i have ever seen!!!
 
estelombo,

Old School

Vape13man
.......and none of this worked as the fucking led that sticks through the hole at the top Is preventin the chamber from comming out, and the white plastic part is so soft even when i put a socket into it it still manages to ram into the heating chamber, ripping it appart. This really is the worst designed and manufactured product i have ever seen!!!
Listen I happen to think this design is awesome in particular how they elected to reclaim and make use of heat that otherwise would have been wasted {Hybrid conduction with a convection kicker}....
To each his own I guess.......YES I forgot to mention the tiny LED would need to be pushed in a little if it was sticking out too far....my apologies I'm usually a bit more thorough but I do vape as I read this thread....my bad.....and I do believe mine just got pushed in as I slide the white sleeve down the inside of the body..... you likely have the LED pretty well sandwiched at this point so you should push it back up in side a little to release the pressure...then gently push the LED in a tiny bit so the sleeve can slide by.....

If that is your only issue than it should slide out after that....but if it is still fighting you then I'm afraid the sleeve is likely too malformed now to be pushed out..... "the sleeve will likely malform if it is warmed"
The bottom can still be pushed out of the sleeve...however getting it back up inside might prove to be a challenge for you.... if you are able to reconnect the heating element...... you comment about ripping the inside chamber apart doesn't sound very promising....if your lucky you have only damaged the guide {insert} the chamber is well made so it might be OK still....maybe.... please note the chamber is only held in place by the pins it is soldered to.....your main concern is to not damage the sensor leads which are very very thin and very delicate so patience and a steady hand are essential here.....

This really is the worst designed and manufactured product i have ever seen!!!
I wonder how many other vaporizer you have "seen!!!" or taken apart like this because I felt completely ripped off when I got a peek inside my VB 2.0 DLX :shrug: design was so weak and I paid so much:rant:just simply heating it from the bottom just like a PAX it's no wonder you have to keep stirring the damn things..... however this design provides a chamber wrapping around a tube....just look at all that contact surface area....and then they make use of normally wasted heat by warming the incoming air... I immediately fell in love with it and have thus far purchased a total of 6 units....spreading the love...

I hope you are able to re-solder your chambers if that is what you have going on there....Good Luck !!!
 
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Old School,

needalift

Well-Known Member
I have been using my XP since July of last year without any issue . It is my favorite portable that I've owned so far . I am worried because I plugged it in around 3:45 pm yesterday , and it is now 7:04 am the following day and the light that indicates it's charging is still on . There's no way it should take that long to charge . Any thoughts on why this might be happening ??
 
needalift,

Edward Hyde

Well-Known Member
I have been using my XP since July of last year without any issue . It is my favorite portable that I've owned so far . I am worried because I plugged it in around 3:45 pm yesterday , and it is now 7:04 am the following day and the light that indicates it's charging is still on . There's no way it should take that long to charge . Any thoughts on why this might be happening ??

smells like you are getting an INH005...
 
Edward Hyde,

needalift

Well-Known Member
I wish , but I'm broke as a joke right now . I just hope that isn't it for my XP after only a year and 3 months . If that's the case , I may not want the 05 . I had the original Inhalater and it quit heating after less than 6 months . I got the XP hoping that I wouldn't have this problem , and now it is having issues . I don't expect a vaporizer to last forever , but I take good care of my stuff and would hope to get a few years at least out of a $250 unit . That hasn't been the case yet . I just emailed the manufacturer to see if they could offer up some advise . It's 3 months past the 1 year warranty , so no hope of a replacement :(

EDIT !! it finally stopped charging after 16 hours and 15 minutes . I hope that was just a one time thing :):)
 
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needalift,

druminfected

Well-Known Member
Has anyone posted any pictures on taking the XP apart? I seen someone posted pics of the inh004 taken apart, so i did that but only the bottom cap switch came off on the bottom and it looks way different from the inh004. It looks like I'll fubar it if I go any further taking it apart. I really would like to replace the battery that's it in now, it doesn't seem to hold a charge much at all is the reason. I put the cap switch back on so I wouldn't ruin it anymore than it is, until I can find instructions on how to take this apart safely. I seen someone also post how to do it by text but pictures really are better when taking apart something.
 
druminfected,

Old School

Vape13man
If it's just the battery that you are after....the process isn't that bad really.... my biggest concern would be the amount of glue that was used to firm up the USB port....
with the cap off....you will note a tiny portion of the ribbon cable folded but sticking out just a bit..... this is the side that will need to come out 1st {pry up gently} you may notice the USB is 180 or directly across from the ribbon fold....allow that to remain inside until enough of the assembly is up and out....then the USB can be slid out from under its port hole in the body.....

It will go back in exactly reversed process..... meaning the USB will need to be tucked into its port hole in the body {on an angle} once in place then you can gently slide the assembly back in with the folded ribbon side being the last to seat into place.....

It really is a breeze...once you see how it goes best..... the glue can often hold you up a bit depending on how much was used during original assembling.....

Good Luck..... I am swapping mine all the time these days..... gone is my feeling of....OH shit my battery is toast....and I left my back up XP at home.....reach in my pocket and pull out a fully charged battery....
A quick pop, click, slide, flip.....out and in... flip, slide, click pop......and your up and running again....:peace:
 
Old School,

DBVn00b

Well-Known Member
Need help and support from Inhalater.

In 03/07/2013 I bought an Inhalater XP from Kush Paradise on eBay. I fell in love with it, however after only 2 weeks it stopped working. I contacted Inhalater rep through here and they asked me for my address to send a replacement. I spent $230 on this device.

It never arrived, I contacted them once again in summer I have my conversations saved in here lucky for me and they once again asked me for my address to send new replacement, it never happened.

I moved to another apartment and probably lost the defective XP unless it's in my storage unit.

I've never lost $230 like that in my life, will they take care of me because I do love Inhalater however I felt they stole hard earned money from me in a delicate time in my life.

I then bought a Solo for $130 on eBay and never had a problem.

Did I lost $230 forever or can they take care of me?
 
DBVn00b,

Old School

Vape13man
Its been some time since I visited this thread and I'm doing so because as of late I have been enjoying my long lost friend...the Q2 XP.....

I just can't get over how great this version was and I know now beyond any shadow of a doubt it all has to do with the Q2 flex heater...as it was what I changed on my GF's broken XP.... I also had to replace the sensor but I used a sensor from a broken 5"S" so I don't think it made any difference.....

Anyway it is just as it was way back then it even appears to have gone back to the same dial settings as I now have to set it on #3 or else I get the tickle cough just like I used too..... with the Q4 heater it started out on #5.... just that alone is interesting enough.... then I notice the ABV is so much darker looking than all of my more recent ABV....again just like I remembered it was..... it does have the smooth yummy draws I remember but it also doesn't stick around as long....so that's a huge improvement....

It really is a shame that this manufacturer didn't stop and forge this revision {or the INH004} in stone as to make it available beyond it's evolutionary time window.... I'm betting folks would still be buying and talking about them....:peace:
:shrug:

Edit: almost forgot...I'm using glass now so the taste is much better than I remember too...:peace:
 
Last edited:

Old School

Vape13man
I conducted an inhalation test with my GF's reborn again Q2.... pretty much just like what I did with the 05"S" & the 06....

Noted something very interesting.... I was able to fully extract a cap in just about 20 inhalations... it was actually 21 but that last 21st draw was pretty nasty.. so most might not go there....

Interesting piece was the 06 clocked in at 31..... I then remembered way back when I may have posted something about my replacement that came to replace the Q2 was taking so much longer to get the job done and that it really wasn't getting the job done at all....

I wonder how difficult it would be for them to build a retro Q2 XP.... in other words an 05 with the Q2 heater in it..... I know for a fact I would have to own one...this thing is quite the beast....:cool:
:rockon:
 
Old School,
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play2GETpaidTUESDAYStoned

Unapproved commercial account.
SIR, you are correct, I agree, the XP I have is superior to both I guess the 05 and 6 in my opinion.

I must admit, I usually vape on high or close to the highest setting for the whole load.

BUT the xp I'm able to start a bit lower and ramp it up. On mine it came without a temperature sticker so I have no way of knowing, but it's a great unit.

I never was able to find out from Inhalater what model it is, even though it has a sticker on the bottom with a serial number I think mine ended with 32 maybe the whole things was xpb 8032 or something to that effect.

Inhalater told me back in March of this year that they'd need a picture taken of the inside with the screen removed to show the heater.

I can't do that here at the library on these computers, but someone gave me a MACBOOK computer and hopefully I can use that to go online and attach a picture of some sort of the inside of the unit.

On mine recently I noticed the screen was falling out quite a lot so I took the pick tool and tried to push it down and secure it in place, but I don't want to push too hard.

I just make sure though before I cook a load that I ALWAYS look inside to make double sure that the screen is in fact in

It would really piss me off to kill this XP by using it without the screen in and having not paid enough attention to detail.

FOR THE MONEY>>>> If we could get that 05 with the XP heater, I'd go for that as well.

You are as usual right on top of things

I feel a bit weird though looking back at the 2 year time frame. I was PRIVATE MESSAGED by a guy from Seattle right away who was on the 004 thread as well and at the end of that thread said he was getting an XP replacement.

I do believe he had 2 of those before giving up, but his private message was about how not everybody was having a positive experience and to WAIT before making judgement because it might still break in the coming weeks or months>>>>>> that was 2 years ago and mine still works

I think the pick tool though is probably the best thing to have because without that, it kinda would stop working at even near it's potential and I don't know if that would cause it to break, but I didn't use mine as much as most people did until I could secure that pick tool in my ULTIMATE PACKAGE that they sent me

Without that pick tool, I wouldn't want to play this game

Also, I am now getting to like the battery exchange on the 05 >>>> that's my back up unit and I would recommend getting one because you'd need 2 or 3 of these to make a good kit.

Having ONE is risky and it makes it easier to deal with the company I think when you're a repeat customer and they know that.
 
play2GETpaidTUESDAYStoned,

play2GETpaidTUESDAYStoned

Unapproved commercial account.
you all should buy the PICK TOOL for sure

major update...

I have just cleaned the air intake holes for both my 004 xp and 05

2 hour job for both.... tons of tar very black in appearance, and resin all gunked up inside the air intake holes.

If you hear a crackle come from inside while on, that's resin that you've sucked out of the air intake hole into the heating element.

I am recommending to anyone that doesn't have a pick tool to order one immediately...

If you are wondering, "do I really need that or can I use something else?"
\
No for god's sake, if you use some other tool, you're a genius, but that' s a bad option if you miss.

Not nailing it correctly will destroy your unit badly.

Pressing the pick tool into the screen takes a few try's but obvious the reason is you're trying to be careful not to press to hard and break the xp...

Finally after several failed attempts at trying to HOOK the screen, you'll likely press just hard enough to GRAB on to it.

Slowly pull it out not too fast, nice and slow, you'll get it.

Once you got the screen out, you'll be amazed at how much junk there is in the air intake holes.

If you had a broken xp unit and didn't throw it away, great, it can still be serviced, but take that screen out and check for yourself... Tons of tar and resin will be inside. Look for the holes, in the xp unit I think there was 4 of them in my unit, you can FEEL around for them using a q-tip.

take about half the cotton OFF the q-tip and soak in iso. make sure the q-tip is not dripping, just damp will do fine.

clean the whole thing out many times not once. It took me 2 hours to do this thoroughly and after most of it was out I was using damp warm water because having any iso inside can cause a fire, but the last 7 or 8 q-tips being just water helps to dissipate and dilute any remaining iso...


do this dude and YOU WLL live to see another day


don't do it and it may be the END of your unit
 
play2GETpaidTUESDAYStoned,

Old School

Vape13man
I have tested many times now..... and I'm convinced the high is better using the Q1/Q2 flex heater.... and that is with only using 12.5 watts.....

I feel the 06 gives me what I want to call a "ghost" buss or high..... it comes very close to a complete buzz but it's just missing..... which is some situations is a wanted thing......
The 06 also maintains good flavor almost to the end...whereas the Q1/Q2 heater drops off rather quickly...

The Q1/Q2 heater is much quicker too though... like 2 runs and done verses 3 runs that an extra 10 minutes which could equate to 10+ draws....

Most intriguing.......:shrug:
 
Old School,

PPN

Volute of Vapor
The 05 was really near to quit my home for another....but I hesitated and decided to keep it. I used it more and now I find the perfect spot for taste, I enjoy a lot the glass capsules for flowers and taste (dry session) and capsules to milk my watertools with a load of flowers or concentrates soaked in coton or rarely a mix of both concentrates and flowers.

Never thought to sell my Xp, always my vape of choice when I want a quick and effective session, although both (XP&05) are my portables at home, i use them while my desktop unit are heating or fill a glass capsule to vape front of the TV with my little family.

I got a very good offer from Inhalater for the 06 but I declined since i must to refrain my VAS...and I hope they will come back with a trully innovative vape!
 
PPN,
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