Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by Alan, Aug 21, 2017.
Here are a few quick pics of my new iHeat along with some other beautiful bocote
Got mine today and I'm already in love!
This cartridge pulls out some serious clouds and taste is very pure.
Hi @PPN do you have the iheat base or just a mod to run the iHeat 510? Mine will come soon, i've to purchase a mod. Wich one do you use ? Tc works ? Please everybody i need help to choose my mod
Amy change of seeing pictures of the heater and insides?
I kind of want to make one myself as a "cooler hobby then model trains"
I have been having pretty good success with TC mode (316SS.) Obviously the temperatures do not really correlate with real-world temperature, and I cannot say whether the relationship between display temp and coil temp (and also bowl temp if we want to add another meaningful variable) is actually linear.
But setting a cutoff temp in TC mode somewhere below the device's max of 600F definitely seems to prevent scorching.
For example, if I run in VW mode at 35W, I can definitely scorch a bowl if I am not careful. However, if I run this same 35W in TC mode with temp set to 520F, I can achieve essentially the same heating speed but eliminate the scorching by allowing the mod to kill the power when it reaches some semi-arbitrary 'temperature' reading.
Any way to see where I stand on the waiting list. Also what mods are people using.
I ended up buying a Wismec RX Gen3 (pictured at the top of this page) which was the smallest 3-battery mod I could find. It was about 50 bucks + batteries. 9000 mAh of fury. I've been running this setup for just about 15 minutes of trigger time and my batteries are at 82%. That actually sounds sort of bad with 9000 mAh of batteries I guess, but this is a serious heating element!
Yes a 2 or 3 batteries mod is better for autonomy (it's a battery hog in comparison of the Project or the Mvt) BUT I noticed the TC mode is very accurate with my Evic Mini and not really with my Movkin Disguiser (2 batteries mod) and it seems to be a different beast using one mod or the other. It's hotter with some hot spots with the Evic Mini and it's smoother with a more even abv with the Disguiser ... I can't explain why, maybe is there an expert to enlight us? (in TC mode SS I use 410 with the Mini and 520 with the Disguiser and I still scorch a bit with the Mini...)
The I-Heat works admirably well but the unrestricted airflow produce a very hot vapor stream which make me cough so I'm trying to restrict the airflow a bit or to use another stem than the one he provided to me (glass), for now I didn't find the perfect solution but I'm in a good way (at least making my basket screen dirty enough!) using my Project wood and metal mp with a o-ring or two. I noticed the smaller is the bowl the more scorching you get cause the concentrated heat so use lower setting in this case to avoid to scorch your load but it might be perfect with concentrate. So with the provided glass stem the airflow hole is very wide and it avoid the previous issue and is the best option for a large load on the go if you don't want to stir. Although the smaller bowl option is very nice for micro dosing and no stir too. The provided glass stem doesn't works well for micro dosing (at least with a clean basket screen).
I'm disappointed I haven't ordered the blackwood stem but I didn't noticed the stems was not included in the I-Heat price and I choose the cheaper option... but for only a bit more than 10 bucks more it's a shame I didn't spent more... maybe later.
More to come...
How are you guys able to go so high on these mods? I almost ruined mine off the bat at 420f @ 30watt. The poor thing was sweating after and vapor came off like after a dab on a nail. I am all the way down to the min 212f @ only 7watt with good results, And it seems I may have avoided any major damage by letting off when I saw it glow so quickly during burn off. I am using a Laisimo L3 200w so anyone using one go in low and slow at first.
Edit.. I am having very even heating no overcooking with maximum vapor at 230F 8watt using the 12mm with screen. The initial screen in the 18mm works great at keeping the hotspots down for me.
@StonerSloth - Thanks for posting the photos. It goes well with your collection. Glad your are having good luck with it.
@PPN - Glad to hear it arrived safely. You might be able to drop the wattage down even farther for a little cooler vapor. I do like the unrestricted air path through it. There are so many roasting tube option available from which to choose when you do get some more in the future.
@arrr - Please send me an email to email@example.com to see where you are at on the list.
@Vapor Loop - Glad to hear there was no damage to your coil. It can definitely crank out some heat with enough power applied. Nice to hear you are getting good results at such low wattage. Your mod box sounds like it has quite a lot of power.
@Hjalmark - Here is a photo looking down into the heater coil with a light shining through one of the air intake holes. Anyone who builds their own coils should have no trouble creating one. Making the body/enclosure is the challenge. You can never have too many cool hobbies. I wish you success.
Thank you soo much @Alan, that was of greatest of help!!!
You are welcome. Hope it works for you.
I have been making a stir tool that I include with the purchase of each iHeat, Heat Island, or Toasty Top. It is a bamboo skewer with a sewing needle stuck in the end. It works really well for stirring since it has almost no volume to displace the material. It also works really well for picking the screens clean between uses. The problem was keeping the needle from poking things that shouldn't be poked. My solution is to drill a hole into a bamboo dowel to act as a sort of scabbard. Here is a photo of how it looks with the bamboo skewer inserted both ways. It will fit inside of a battery box. The flat end works great for packing down a load after stirring. The needle also works great for dabbing as almost all the oil releases since it is so small.
They are available for $5 each.
New and improved I like that a lot. I'll have to order one with my next order.
My I-Heat was working very well in TC mode(SS316) at 410-420°F and 33W until yesterday evening, just warm but no vapor at this settings and now I'm using it 460°F and performances are not the same (lighter vapor). I can notice the resistance increase while heating, 0.32 cold and 0.40 at the end of the hit.... Is it possible to remove the shield to check if there is a loose connection?
Too bad cause I begun to like this unit very much!
edit: I just tested a bowl in power mode and it's perfect so maybe my issue comes from the Evic mini I use....
After we wait 18 months to have our name come to top of list?
@PPN a possible ste, replacement might be this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4FDUQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Don't know if Amazon in Europe has this item.
Same happened to me on my Primo mini. It was working like a charm until it wasn't anymore.
Previously I had similar issues with the Project on my evic VTC mini. Never found any satisfying explanation apart from "joyetech sucks".
@PPN - Glad to hear the iHeat cartridge is still working. It is completely rebuildable, so it is possible to remove the cover. I don't anticipate that it will need to be rebuilt though. The coil can be damaged if you are not careful with it. If it is still working well, it is best not to mess with it.
I have not been able to get a single battery box to work with temperature control using the iHeat coil. Even my Cuboid 150 gets a little confused sometimes and doesn't heat. I just open / close the battery door and it all works fine again.
I tried my iHeat cartridge on someones e-cig mod box and got some oil on the contact which caused it to operate sporadically. Oil from your body can get on the center contact of the 510 connector and cause problems too. I give it a wipe with a cloth or paper towel before installing to be sure it always has good electrical conductivity.
Thanks to the information. As i'm a box noob. i've tried to find in this jungle a cheap way to run my iH in TC.
First i would go with a single cell like this or even better a side by side design like the witcher but @KeroZen and @Alan told the tc don't work...
After research it seems that the Smoant Charon 218W TC have all we need (TC, TCR and adjustable heating curve with a firmware) except the stealth
I've seen the Smoant Charon TS 218W TC with the same spec (the heating curve is adustable on the touch screen wihout the firmware)
Is this somebody have tested the one or the other? I'm a little worried about the touch screen on the second.
What do you think about this?
Smoant have a good rep. I love my Knight v2 and I've read good reviews of their other models.
Indeed I had bad luck with my Witcher so far, I think I'll have to return it but they are asking for a video proof of the problem and I have little time for that kind of shit. It's not only with the iHeat, my unit just doesn't seem to work in TC mode at all whatever the attachment I try.
For the touch screen I don't know, it must be wasting more power for little benefit. But if you fancy that kind of gadget... your call!
shit...why did vas have to bring me here?!?!
You might try one sooner than you think..
I just gotta get my shit together! Last time I dealt with Alan it was a blast, so I'm super excited. Funds are ready, I even got permission from the girl, now I just need to decide what I want.
I'm completely new to any box mods, so if anyone would like to PM some help or point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it!
Same question here ? For Europe especially ... Seems like the one recommended before doesn't seem to hold TC well ?
What to get ???
My iHeat should be made soon as I've heard
I think you(we) are not alone lost in mods so maybe some show and tell from IH owners could be usefull as they can affect the overall experience quite a bit it seems
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