Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by Alan, Aug 21, 2017.
I would love to upgrade my iHeat too
hello what is the manufacturing time to get one?
Hello @Daweed44 You have to send a PM or a mail to @Alan to get on the waiting list (that could be quite long, 18 months?)
It is free and if by the time you change your mind you have no obligations
I would suggest you put yourself inline and start to look for another vape while waiting
Alright, so who is able to use his/her iHeat in TC mode? I'm on the verge of giving up.
I tested the iHeat on a new DNA75 mod, and the resistance readings are all over the place, like with all my previous mods. So far I was blaming the crap joyetech mods, but it's clear the problem is not the mods but something with the iHeat, probably the 510 base which is all wobbly and seems to have smaller than usual threads.
I ran the atomizer resistance analyzer in escribe and the results are completely wild. Just barely touching (dare I say blowing on it?) the iHeat makes the reading change wildly. It goes up to 0.4xx ohm and more, exactly like what I experienced on my other mods. When the real resistance is 0.365ohm.
I can make it work for a session or two. But as soon as I cycle the power the resistance reading is off. With the evic VTC mini it was the same: every session was like rolling a dice. Sometimes it was 0.38, sometimes 0.35, sometimes 0.42 (which meant game over) and rarely 0.36 in which case it worked fine... as long as I didn't move the body even the slightest during use (and putting lip pressure on the mouthpiece could be enough...)
So as I understand, @Alan is no longer even trying to make TC run. Most other users reported using it in VW mode only. @PPN is having the same issues like me. So far only @HerbieVonVapster reported good success, but he spent a lot of time tweaking settings and is probably very careful when using the vape. What's the status for the other users?
I have no issues with all my other 510 attachments, even custom built ones. I tried cleaning the iHeat base, the threads, the pin. Cleaned the mods too. Opened it up and tightened the heater screws inside... to no avail. I think it's the 510 base that @Alan selected, something's wrong with it.
EDIT: or perhaps it's not the base at all but just, as we initially assumed, that SS mesh is not a suitable material for TC? I had no success with my own previous tests using that material, but my electrode connections were not as solid as the iHeat ones.
EDIT2: but this hypothesis is less likely, as the resistance reading is pretty stable on a cold mesh using my 4 wire measurement tool, as well as other ohm-meters I have. If mesh was the issue it would be only when trying to regulate but here the readings vary when I screw or unscrew the 510 base on a cold heater.
I'm so glad Alan suggested the stainless steal foil for the Lil' Bud. It's made a world of difference in even heating and efficiency, while helping keep the wood body cool. Since the Lil' Bud uses the same insta Heat coil technology, it will work the exact same.
Just when you think how could Alan's vapes get any better?
i 've the same issue with my iHeat until i tightened the hex screw on the 510 base.
Since no matter at all. i don't know why? maybe it's because i've the SMOANT CHARON TC dedicated to the iHeat so i don't swap to differents mod or the mod itself (i need to lock the resistance to use tcr...i've owned only one mod i'm a noob)
I've too spend a long time to find my sweet spot with tcr value but today my only concern is that i've to stir my load
Edit : does anybody has tried the SB capsule stem from the tubo with the iHeat. i want to know if the load is evenly roasted?
I reckon i gave up TC experimenting very fast as I found out I get very good results with wattage mode and being a lazy fuck I look for simplicity most of the time
My iheat required a tightening right away too. It was giving uneven readings and then started eventually giving me errors randomly. After tightening the bottom hex key up, it reads fine on my device. I have a mod with really poor tc more, so my success with it has definitely been mediocre. I used TC mode for about a month and now I'm back to wattage mode. The tc settings I have settled on did take some reading and experimenting to get down to where I like it. But my mod basically turns heat off when the temp is met, then back on, then back off. Tc mode works better than wattage for me when I'm using a glass piece with the iheat cartridge.
@boon, @Diggy Smalls: you guys made me wonder if I was just completely blind and if I missed said bottom hex. Are you talking about a hex female in the 510 center pin? Mine has a hole but it's round, nothing fits in there.
I do have two hex screws to tighten the heater electrodes to the 510 base, and I re-tightened them just to be sure, but it didn't change the problem like the previous time I did that. I can manage to get a stable reading in the atomizer analyzer, but only if I find the correct position (i.e. the correct amount of torque when screwing the iHeat in)
If I screw too tightly, resistance jumps above 0.4 and readings are completely erratic. There's a sweet spot when I unscrew it slightly just after that where it reads 0.359 to 0.361, about perfect. But if I touch the vape body just a little I can lose that spot. Also when the vape goes to sleep and wakes up, it usually re-reads a wrong value and the sweet spot is basically lost.
Could be that the 510 center pin protrudes too much? Or not enough? But as I said above, mine doesn't seem to be adjustable. Maybe new iHeat versions are using a different 510 base?
The iheat hasn’t given me any issue on the mods I have tried it with it has ran tc.
Granted mine is new so maybe improvements have been made?
If you the run the profile I have for iheat in fcshare it should have worked. Bummed to hear you can’t get tc working.
In escribe there a area where can increase how much of percent of error it allows when reading resistance.
You can increase that see if helps. Doesn’t fix problem more masks it.
My concern worry is that over time resistance changes will make TC harder and harder to work on non replaceable coils.
Hoping I am wrong on this as I enjoy my 510 type vaperizors in TC mode more than wattage.
From my understand The stempod coils are changeable. The splinter are not. The iheat can be changed but it’s not a diy job?
Really hoping my iheat keeps performing like it is. It’s in the top 3 vaporizer use wise in my home collection. If I wasn’t able to run tc it be much lower in use.
@KeroZen I don’t have the iheat with me so can’t check my 510 to see if there a way tighten base screw or not.
Should be home in couple days so will check it then.
Out of frustration, I somehow managed to improve the situation. Last time I used a metal brush to gently clean the iHeat center pin. But this time I used a pointy steel tool and I ground the pin surface with it.
I remembered that the contaminant and oxide film on these brass contacts can be quite thick and needs to be mechanically pierced and fractured. I should have known better, I also had bad contact resistance in my Nomad recently.
I thought the brush was enough but apparently not. Now, I seem to be getting a larger range of torque / tightening that yields a correct resistance reading. I had two very satisfying sessions where temperature was properly regulated with no overshoot (yet still some center hotspot'ing, as usual with this device)
For those having TC issues, give it a try: good ISO cleaning of the iHeat threads, wiping with cotton to get all the grime out. Then grind the center pin with a hard metal tool. No need to create grooves in it of course, just grind the surface. Plus also check the hex screws at the base of the mesh heater, they must be tight.
The honeymoon period is over with my iheat.
I love the form factor of this vape on the witcher mod. Not got TC to work. Not tried on my other mod, however the whole point of iheat for me is the small form factor. Not getting consistant results. Sometimes i like this vapor better than my stempod or splinter, other times i get nothing but burnt popcorn taste.
My Iheats screen fitiing is not great. Easy to push in to far so it is touching the coil. If i have it to high up, the supplied stem is a lose fit. Pulled the stem out a few times with lip stick. Milaana 19/22 stems dont seem to work well flavour wise. Not sure why. Is it too far away from the heater? Is iheat an iso fitting?
Have some capsule stems on there way. I hope i can remove the screen from the iheat and just use the capsule stem. Hopefully that will fit well. More experimentation required to work out why i am not getting consistant results.
When my FW5 arrives could the iheat become redundant as my compact category vape?
Took the iheat out to play yesterday.
What i have found is that on 28w i am getting good flavour but no visable vapor. I have to go up to 34w to get visable vapor but get the burnt popcorn charring taste after a couple of hits. Also a bit harsh at 34w. Looking back through the thread most people favour 30-32w. However i was getting no visable vapor when i tried 30w before, perhaps i will play more at 30. Finding it hard to find the sweet spot, missing TC. I like to see i am exhaling something. Maybe its phycological.
The wide open airflow was one of the reasons the iheat appealed in the honeymoon period. However i am starting to see why Ryan restricted the splinter air flow. It does make for more consistant results. The best of both worlds for airflow is the stempod. The adjustable ring really helps you dial things in.
I find the performance of the splinter the best out of the three. The performance of the stempod is close, but the durability and adjustable airflow mean i cant pick between the two. At the moment iheat is coming in third place.
Its not a bad vape, and i am sure a lot of this comes down to personnal preference. I still might have a eureka moment with the iheat and get it dialed in, or perhaps not.
Hi guys, did you gave a look at the Lil'bud thread? it is supposed to use exactly the same heater the Iheat uses and it seems Alan get the idea to add some ss foil around the deck to get the heat reflected to increase efficiency and less hot body... where can I find this stuff? I think it's diy-able...
I'm thinking to give it a try.
@oddjobold , I try to keep my screen not too clean cause the too wide airflow when clean, although a thinner screen can add some restriction even while clean (I tested but the ones I get are very filmsy and didn't stayed in place).
In my side I'm very pleased with my Iheat in power mode between 28w-35w, get clouds at 28w but with long and deep hits and no issue to milk my room if used at 33-35w... but, as you mentionned, taste suffers after a few hits.
In some aspects I found the Iheat very similar to the MVT. Although for a long tasty session I prefer the Touch (smoother) and for a quick heavy medicating session I prefer the Iheat (harsher) but both vapes might be used in the opposite way of vaping for sure!
When I first get my IH i was experimenting similar issues as you @oddjobold (hot air and hotspots), completely open airflow is tricky but its good for my lungs (not having to fight air restriction)
As soon as I reduced my draw speed (slow and steady) I solved these issues: no more need for stir and I do not experiment harshness anymore, while still having nice and quite thick exhale(not as thick as an hybrid device can be but on par with others 100%covection devices I own), starting after 1st hit which is pure taste but light on exhale. @~25-27W
@PPN You should PM Alan, I did and I should get my ss foil with holes for air intake
Had my first episode of center screw untightening: value rised from .31 to .40 and had a blackspot
Tightened and value dropped back to .31 (and temperature,for given watt/draw speed, went back to what expected)
I pushed my screen in the wooden stem as far back as it can go and I use a rimmed screen to sandwich the herbs. There is plenty of room to shake the load around, meaning I don't usually stor anymore.
I have thought about getting some stainless steel foil to line my own cartridge. I played around with some tin foil and it did benefit from it, though it's not very permanent.
For those wanting to install SS foil themselves >> https://www.banggood.com/Silver-Stainless-Steel-Fine-Plate-Sheet-Foil-0_1x100x1000mm-p-1005593.html
On my side the joy didn't last long. Took the iHeat out of its sleep this morning, and no way to get the DNA read the correct resistance, it's once again all over the place. The only way I can make it work is by launching escribe, running the atty analyzer and screwning/unscrewing the iHeat until I find the sweet spot again... which is completely impractical.
So right now, TC with the iHeat is a dead-end for me. And I wouldn't go back to Power mode, I have enough manually regulated devices that I like better for that.
Damn sorry to hear that the iheat giving you problems again. Mines running great on the dna250 in TC mode hopefully being a newer unit it stays this way.
Do you think it has to do with he 510 connection or is it the coil material? Is it possible get another coil for it?
Do not use this foil it is Grade 202.. I used some as a heat shield for a halo-log. Smells really metallic/like rusty iron when heated and discolors quickly. I can smell it from the other side of the room . I am really sensitive to smells,it works good as a heatshield,but in this case with the Iheat it would be in the airpath.. so avoid this grade, try 316L or 430 .
Ah damn, I knew about the grade but I didn't know about the smell. That being said I can smell SS316 too and the iHeat also smells like a hair drier when you heat it up dry and shove your nose near the air intakes...
But maybe it's seeing much higher temperature in your halo-log no?
It doesnt get hotter than 50 C . Outside of the glass is 70C at hottest point . I swear i can smell iteven when it is not heated,lol. Halo-log concept is an open luminary and most of the heat escapes trough the opening at the top.Glass is great insulator. I tried to heat purge it off the smell but it resulted in a product with decreased corrosion resistance and still smelly as hell.
I can also smell ss316 ,but ss316L is a lot better after a nice heat treatment. I am using an alcohol lamp to do that which burns no hotter than 400C .
This grade 202 has a lot Fe in it,i think this is the reason for the metalic smell.
@Alan Those coils look fantastic. Is the 510 base custom made for the iheat or is it comercially available ?
The wall of the heater cavity does not get very hot at all. My taste and sense of smell is dull compared to some of y'all. The iheat does remind me if a hair dryer for some reason, maybe it's the smell that I don't consciencly notice but it still affects my perception? I don't know.
I enjoy my iheat cartridge, but I use the stem (18mm taper to 14mm taper) a whole bunch. It works with my toasty top/heat island, mistvape essence, and even my vapcap. Honestly, it's strange there isn't a thread devoted to the stems and accessories that Alan makes.
I'm not the kind of person who gives up easily, but as it is right now, my iHeat worked only on the evic VTC mini and is worse on the DNA75. So I'll move it back to the old red evic until I find a solution to the problem.
I ordered this tool "Focusecig Vapor Polish Jig" too see whether it can help or not. At least it should be useful for my other vapes and projects >> https://www.fasttech.com/products/7462700
But now I'm curious. Can you guys confirm that the 510 center pin on your iHeat base is adjustable with a Allen key? Mine seems to have a roundish hole and my Allen keys just turned without biting anything. As I have one of the earliest iHeat around, maybe mine is just not adjustable and newer versions are?
I could try replacing that center pin, but right now I think I would be better off finding a whole new 510 base and transplanting the heater to it. Anyone found a compatible host? @Alan: any source you could share?
@Abysmal Vapor: thanks for the heads up mate. I'll report when I receive that foil as I already ordered it for some time before I posted the link. I read about 202 grade before placing my order, and it just seemed it was a regular stainless steel with less nickel content (which is a good thing knowing that nickel is kinda bad for health)
It just has less corrosion resistance (but since it won't be in contact with plant material nor vapor, excepted for blow backs, I thought it wouldn't matter) But your comments have me a bit worried now... bah no big deal, it was super cheap anyway and as you said I could still use it outside of the vapor path in my other projects, say for instance as a reflector around a glass part.
Element Content (%) SS202 vs 316 L
Iron, Fe 68% vs Fe, <0.03%
Chromium, Cr 17- 19 vs Cr, 10-14%
Manganese, Mn 7.50-10 vs Mn, <1%
Nickel, Ni 4-6 vs Ni, 2-3%
Silicon, Si ≤ 1 Si, <0.045%
Nitrogen, N ≤ 0.25 vs 0 %
Carbon, C ≤ 0.15 vs C, 16-18.5%
Phosphorous, P ≤ 0.060 vs P, <0.03%
Sulfur, S ≤ 0.030 vs S 0.03 %
Mo 0% vs Mo, <2%
It is 68% vs 0.03% Fe ...... This is huge difference. Nickel Content is the same but tenfold the Mn..
I would never use this grade even out of the airpath just because of the smell.. IDK if it is dangerous or not ... but i have decided to stick with 316L for future,it works very good as a reflector outside the glass,it is much shinier than the 202 .
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