Homemade Vaporizers

[hemp;)goofy8cheerio]

2clicker hi would u get the medium or large hakko & then does dbv or ssv heater cover fit ez? how? what is temp on lowest? the site says 392 to 700 so may b with the glass coolin it 330-355 would b lowest & if u set temp on dial to 420-445 would temp of bowl b 385? does the steel shim help keep glass cover on well enuf is it lose? lQQks nice u say it werks gr8 what does bowl look like? thcx

 

[stinkmeaner]

Glad you got it up and running.

One thing though, remember when you were worried about the heating element being stainless steel? You.....like many became so concerned about the heating element from the propaganda you have read from competing vaporizer companies but one thing they rarely mention is "what else is in the air path?" Due to lack of real engineering, the SSV airpath design has a metal shim and the paint is exposed at the base. In turn your Wand will always have metal in the airpath because your design is based from the SSV, so all in all the worrying you did about the type of heating element was didn't matter in the end since now you have chromed steel being cooked at the base of your airpath.

I am going to try and come up with a modification that will eliminate the metal in the airpath, right now though I can only think of the obvious and that is having a glass blower modify the heater cover to have a inner sleeve.

 

[2clicker]

Glad you got it up and running.

One thing though, remember when you were worried about the heating element being stainless steel? You.....like many became so concerned about the heating element from the propaganda you have read from competing vaporizer companies but one thing they rarely mention is "what else is in the air path?" Due to lack of real engineering, the SSV airpath design has a metal shim and the paint is exposed at the base. In turn your Wand will always have metal in the airpath because your design is based from the SSV, so all in all the worrying you did about the type of heating element was didn't matter in the end since now you have chromed steel being cooked at the base of your airpath.

I am going to try and come up with a modification that will eliminate the metal in the airpath, right now though I can only think of the obvious and that is having a glass blower modify the heater cover to have a inner sleeve.

the pieces i used to shim the cover came from the Hakko not my DBV. the only DBV part on their is the heater cover. the pieces i used from the Hakko are SS so im covered.

but i agree i will continue to look for a better way to secure a heater cover that will be more practical. i originally had the cover fastened with a piece of tubing, but this iron can get up to 800deg so that wont work. are there any semi flexible tubing that is extreme high heat? that would work well i think. then the cover would be nice and snug, but also have just a tad of spring to it. i dont yet, but ill figure something out. the shim works for now though. please let me know if you think of anything more substantial. and yes i think im going to start looking locally for a friendly glass blower. there are a few studios in town. maybe find someone online. having someone make you a heater cover to fit your needs would be ideal.

using the female GonG fitting seems to be working really well. ive used it with a DBV wand and a very short whip w/ mouthpiece. and then i broke out this mini steamroller i have with a cylindrical bowl. both worked well, but IMO you need at least 6-8" inches between your lips and the heat. the steamroller worked, but i got lots of heat with it.

i cant wait to try this with my beaker, but i need a bowl

 

[VWFringe]

Dude, for your post I've changed my avatar - WOW, clear

i gotta ask tho...on page 9 of the SSV Hakko thread, jklasd said he didn't like the dimmer, can you comment? (i already got a dimmer, and fry's sells the hakko 456 for $39 - I can drive there tonight...bye!

so, i got my mini phaser. and the problem was indeed the dimmer. ive been blowing clouds ever since. fucking right. i think im gonna do up the cork idea, that vaelrenx suggested. the tubing and clamp isn't keeping it in place for some reason. my friend suggested heat resistant cocking, not sure how that would really work. but a def update is needed regardless of what it ends up being.

and I guess i'll find out how the fit is, but did you have to cut off the top of the tube around the element?

Stinkmeaner, I wonder if a glass blower could cover the element with pyrex, and instead of the DBV cover, use a 1" pyrex test tube filled with borosilicate beads, drill a few holes in the closed end of the test tube for the air-flow - thermal mass, portable...? i'll post a picture of the test tube over the element when i get back, but i haven't bought the glass beads

YOW! YOW!

 

[stinkmeaner]

@2clicker...I had no idea that the Hakko used Stainless components, where did you find that?


@VWFringe...Yes a glass blower should have no problem making something like that, what I suggested is a glass cover similar to the SSV cover but have a second layer of glass on the inside that would cover the element, just like the VHW but cheaper.

I am sure an Etsy glass blower could design something great, giving him the proper dimensions would be crucial.

 

[2clicker]

2clicker hi would u get the medium or large hakko & then does dbv or ssv heater cover fit ez? how? what is temp on lowest? the site says 392 to 700 so may b with the glass coolin it 330-355 would b lowest & if u set temp on dial to 420-445 would temp of bowl b 385? does the steel shim help keep glass cover on well enuf is it lose? lQQks nice u say it werks gr8 what does bowl look like? thcx

im not sure about what to set the dial on with the soldering station. id assume its like all vapes where you have to learn where to set the dial. im pretty sure i zeroed in on the sweet spot on my dimmer, but more vaping... er... research is needed

for the bowl im using a DBV wand and mouthpiece with about a 10" piece of tubing.

as for the shim, it stays on very well, but im not really satisfied with it just yet. ill be looking for ways to make that part a better connection. as it stands now it though it isnt goin anywhere unless you pull it off.

also the heater in my Hakko is about twice the diameter of the heater in my DBV. so if i had to pick between the medium or large i would base that decision off of which has the bigger heater. if they were the same id go with the smaller of the two.

 

[2clicker]

Dude, for your post I've changed my avatar - WOW, clear

i gotta ask tho...on page 9 of the SSV Hakko thread, jklasd said he didn't like the dimmer, can you comment? (i already got a dimmer, and fry's sells the hakko 456 for $39 - I can drive there tonight...bye!

and I guess i'll find out how the fit is, but did you have to cut off the top of the tube around the element?

Stinkmeaner, I wonder if a glass blower could cover the element with pyrex, and instead of the DBV cover, use a 1" pyrex test tube filled with borosilicate beads, drill a few holes in the closed end of the test tube for the air-flow - thermal mass, portable...? i'll post a picture of the test tube over the element when i get back, but i haven't bought the glass beads

YOW! YOW!

there was some cutting required, but i made quick work of that with a small tubing cutter. and what dimmer was jklasd using? home made or a hakko station? not sure why it wouldnt work perfectly. these hakkos have almost instant thermal recovery so after you hit it, its ready to go within like 2 seconds.

and thats a great idea about the boro beads... ive been tinkering with some high temp tubing around the mouth of the DBV cover on my hakko. it seems if the soft tubing is hangin over the edge of the rim of the HC, that it would be plyable enough to conform to an uneven bowl surface. does that make sense?

anyway, keep thinking team!

 

[lepstadder]

pretty cool, great ingenuity, next step is all glass vapor path

 

[stinkmeaner]

Instead of a dimmer you could use a PID controller like the Super Vapezilla uses, there is one on Ebay for $30. Ofcourse you would have to take apart the soldering iron and get a few things like: Thermocouple, relay, and basic wiring.


2Clicker---what bowl are you using? Something like this would be ideal:

 

[2clicker]

2Clicker---what bowl are you using? Something like this would be ideal:
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:...t.com/albums/m473/quique1694/DSC02129.jpg&t=1

yes! where did you find those??? something like that is exactly what im looking for, but hopefully i can find one that would hold a screen well. in fact i couldnt wait any longer to try the iron with my beaker so i fashioned up a make shift bowl like whats pictured above. basically its just a DBV wand and a straight water adapter that are connected by about 1.5" of tubing. both the wand and the adapter are almost touching if you can picture that. so its almost just like what you posted above, but about 6-7" in length... haha

results were fantastic as expected. the beaker chalks much faster than using it with the DBV and regular length whip. i believe im going to try to use a water tool exclusively when vaping at home from now on. it always just seemed like such a pain to maintain a water tool throughout the week. but i really like the idea of the Vaporfection Aqua Vape in-line water cooler. i say that because you cant spill it. so i could set it down without having to worry about my cat tipping it over or whatever.

i think i may get one of these to try it out. and of course im going to be getting one of those VapeXHale HydraTubes...

 

[2clicker]

@2clicker...I had no idea that the Hakko used Stainless components, where did you find that?

forgot to answer this... i could tell just from handling it that it was SS. i sell SS so im very familiar with the different types. anyway, i went ahead and contacted hakko to be sure and they confirmed that the enclosure (of which i made the shim) and the nut are indeed SS. youd think they would state that on their product page, but they dont.

 

[stinkmeaner]

Those are from a vaporizer called "The Glass Vape" so I don't know if you can get them separate, but they are designed to hold a screen in the middle because they are used as a bowl.

They are really just a double ended glass on glass joint 'GonG' so you could easily order one from Etsy, there are many on there that do odd things like that all the time.

 

[VWFringe]

they didnt have an HC at Prissy's, so in my haste, I drilled a small hole through the enclosure (which is SS) and am holding a bowl up to it. Fry's Electronics $39.99 (it's set at 20%, anything higher than 30% combusts)

I already had a light dimmer, on clearance for $7 bucks, the outlet and box set me back $2.90

i wish i knew about electronics, so i could modify this light dimmer to give more throw to the low end, anyone know if this would just be adding a component to the line to drop the voltage before the dimmer? i tried attaching a 12v 1A power supply but no heat noticed.

how's that for ghetto? hehe

EDIT: set to 40% on light dimmer, this is an excercise in tuning the distance from the heater balanced agaisnt how hard you draw

this is definitely just another experiment in making due - 2clicker, if you have glass, i envy you, I get a metal taste (I'll try glass beads next, or maybe ss washers will fit inside this, dunno

 

[2clicker]

nice work fringe

i like the idea of using the SS cover. the more "stock" it looks the better IMO. does it work well?

i suppose youd have to be using specific types of bowls for this, but i can think of a few that would probably work. i may have to buy a replacement enclosure and try this.

http://hakkousa.com/detail.asp?PID=1743&Page=1

 

[2clicker]

EDIT: i can't believe this keeps up so well when i really rip on it...but it takes all of my attention to set up the hit, i have the herb farther back now in a thin glass tube, and it's up to 45%, really happy

this is definitely just another experiment in making due - 2clicker, if you have glass, i envy you, I get a metal taste (I'll try glass beads next, or maybe ss washers will fit inside this, dunno

well im using a DBV heater cover, but i have also purchased a second enclosure and drilled a hole in it just like you did. i have in fact confirmed again from Hakko that this part is indeed 304 stainless steel.

anyway, i liked using the SS enclosure when vaping. in my experience the temp dial was set much lower and achieved the same results... in fact, at first i had it dialed in where i do normally when using the glass, and when using the SS cover it completely combusted it. i had to turn the dial down about half way from where it is normally with the glass to reach normal vaping temps.

i did not experienced a metal taste at all when, but i only sessioned with it once... like .2g in 2 bowls.

even when using the glass though, there is still a little bit of SS being used. i cut the enclosure and made what is similar to the shim that comes on the DBVs and SSVs, to couple to the cover. i then use extreme high temp tubing on the outside of the heater cover and SS enclosure to couple there as well. no silicone is in the air path. i will have to take and post new pics because its looking a little different now with the high temp silicone coupler and stand... working great though!

 

[elmomuzz]

My friend tried my volcano yesterday. He was blown away. Today he calls me and tells me that he has connected a common air mattress pump to his buddha and is filling bags. He's pretty handy.

 

[2clicker]

My friend tried my volcano yesterday. He was blown away. Today he calls me and tells me that he has connected a common air mattress pump to his buddha and is filling bags. He's pretty handy.

very cool idea

i would try it, but i much prefer direct draw

 

[2clicker]

@2clicker...I had no idea that the Hakko used Stainless components, where did you find that?

forgot to answer this... i could tell just from handling it that it was SS. i sell SS so im very familiar with the different types. anyway, i went ahead and contacted hakko to be sure and they confirmed that the enclosure (of which i made the shim) and the nut are indeed SS. youd think they would state that on their product page, but they dont.

update on this

since contacting Hakko about the materials used on their 456 iron, they told me that the enclosure and nut were SS. well that got me thinking what the tip support and flange were made of. so i contact them again and the girl tells me that she has to talk to her product manager and that he would get back to me. he emails me asking me what my use is of their product. basically he wanted to find out what i was doing with it before he told me this info. at first this had me kinda pissed, but it makes sense. they are trying to protect their product from being copied as they do have some parts/forms that only they make.

i email him back asking why he needs to know what im doing with it before telling me what the materials were. he then tells me that they have people contacting them all the time about getting their schematics and all kinds of stuff... anyway, so then i email him back telling him that it needs to be used at temps between 400-500deg and its for air. the next day i get a response from him asking something along the lines of "is this for medical use (vaporization)?... then i knew that they must be getting people contacting them alot for this kind of stuff. so then im worried that if i tell him the truth that he wont want to help me as im not using it for its intended use. i thought they would be looking out for their ass only, but this isnt the case.

he told me "we understand there are people using our products for medical use" and "we appreciate their needs and are happy to provide products that will work". basically they know that people are using their irons for herb and they are supportive of this. i was blown away.

big up to hakko for being real

ill be buying Hakko products for my vaping from here on out. thanks again hakko! great service.

 

[stinkmeaner]

That is awesome, not the response I would have expected either, in my head it would have gone somewhat like "This is a soldering iron for use as an industry tool and not meant to be taken apart or used for un-intended purposes".

To your question on the double ended glass piece, you can have one of the Etsy glass blowers make one for you, the price shouldn't be too much and while you were at it you could maybe have him make you a heater cover for your hakko that covers the element, basically all they would need to do is take two glass tubes, one with smaller diameter and weld one inside the other, you would just have to give dimensions for the length and inside so it will fit.

 

[2clicker]

That is awesome, not the response I would have expected either, in my head it would have gone somewhat like "This is a soldering iron for use as an industry tool and not meant to be taken apart or used for un-intended purposes".

To your question on the double ended glass piece, you can have one of the Etsy glass blowers make one for you, the price shouldn't be too much and while you were at it you could maybe have him make you a heater cover for your hakko that covers the element, basically all they would need to do is take two glass tubes, one with smaller diameter and weld one inside the other, you would just have to give dimensions for the length and inside so it will fit.

inoryte? he was based out of Cali so hes prolly got a medi card himself...

and yeah ima go ahead and contact some glass artist on etsy about a couple of humble pieces. but who should i contact? i know there were some threads floatin around about who can be trusted and who cant on etsy. glasstafarian i think got good reviews...? a couple others also, but i cant remember.

i think i could provide a nice image w/ sizes depicting exactly what im looking for. ive got a few ideas for an all glass air path heater cover... ideas that should be easy to make (but what do i know?). the male to male gong bowl shouldnt be much trouble to make.

there are a couple of places locally that i can get some borosillicate tubing. thought about maybe even buying a torch setup and maybe trying to do some basic stuff myself. there are some places that teach blowing classes also. would one need a kiln to produce pieces like an SSV or DBV wand or HC?

 

[OO]

right now i've improvised a vape out of a glass serological pipette, like the kind used in labs.

i just load the vacuum end and heat the surrounding glass with a lighter, kinda like a glass vaporgenie bat.

works great.

 

[2clicker]

ok here is an update on my Hakko Vape. I have since added some extreme high temp silicone components.

first off is the tubing. its a short piece that helps couple the HC to the hakko sleeve. the sleeve itself goes up into the HC cutting off any access to the silicone to the air path.

second is the stand i made. its made of the same silicone, but its flat stock instead of tubing. i simply cut out the triangular shape and then cut a hole so that it sits nice and tight to the nut on the hakko. this way ill never have to look for the stand, or worry about forgetting it. its not goin anywhere the hakko isnt goin.

third there is a small piece of tubing at the end of the hakko handle. this makes for a nice grip on whatever surface the hakko is on. works great. also, as you can see ive retrofitted an old hard case i had to fit the hakko and dimmer. the dimmer box stays put in the case when in use. this works well, but the case is kinda janky so i think ill be getting a slim pelican case for it in the future.

also posted are some pics of the adapters ive been using allowing me to use different pieces to vape with. pics of the pieces included as well.

next time ill get the actual soldering station so that its a more refined product...

 

[Revvy]

ok here is an update on my Hakko Vape. I have since added some extreme high temp silicone components.

first off is the tubing. its a short piece that helps couple the HC to the hakko sleeve. the sleeve itself goes up into the HC cutting off any access to the silicone to the air path.

Very interesting. Where did you get the silicone sheet and how much does it run?

I'm working on one of these. Waiting for the heat cover to ship. I went with the 936 to get some temperature regulation and good guess on how hot the iron is.

 

[stinkmeaner]

Awesome 2Clicker, the silicone is a nice touch, does it provide a better seal?

 

[2clicker]

Awesome 2Clicker, the silicone is a nice touch, does it provide a better seal?

thanks and indeed it does

i did a test with it before heating it up to see if any air could get through and there wasnt any. just plugged the holes with my fingers and tried to suck air through. sealed tight as can be.

i think i may keep checking out different adapters. like maybe one that goes from reg gong to spherical socket for those REALLY WIDE BOWLS!!!

here is a pic of a make shift wand using a downstem and small cylindrical bowl w/ screen notch