Homemade Vaporizers

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
When i was buying my first vaporizer ... I was between Delicatessen Vape,DBV,Arizer,herbal aire.. I went with the dbv.. .. I bet some of my friends would like the price.. I got like 10 friends which i hooked on vaporizers and all of them are planning on getting one asap :D
 
Abysmal Vapor,

NineDelta

Vaporize is health
Hi all!

Delicatessen Vape are, a capsule for Hakko 456 and a bowl. I prefer use Delicatessen Vape to vaporize weeds than hash

In forum Vaporizando.com we speak about it: http://vaporizando.com/foro.php?topic=184.0

Here a video with delicatessen vape and a piramidal bowl to vaporize hash, but in my opinion,vaporizing with this bowl is mainly vapor but a little bit of smoke too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKHevMTEPHA


For me, to vaporize weed is perfect, good flavor, vapor can be dense, but depend of the time you have switch on Hakko 456.

In this video vaporizing with Herborizer and Delicatessen vape:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8vf1AXuWzA
 
NineDelta,
Thanks for the information Ninedelta, you're the only reason this post exists. One question, is the temperature adjustable or set? How do you find the heat retention?

That pyramidal bowl is off of grasscity or EDIT.com for anyone interested, it's a weedstar product I've seen it before.

It's funny, the whole vape reminds me of a far more down to earth, basic realization of the LSV's waterpipe adapter system, just without the ground glass and what may be a superior heating element.
 
charliedontsurf,

NineDelta

Vaporize is health
charliedontsurf said:
Thanks for the information Ninedelta, you're the only reason this post exists. One question, is the temperature adjustable or set? How do you find the heat retention?

That pyramidal bowl is off of grasscity or EDIT.com for anyone interested, it's a weedstar product I've seen it before.

It's funny, the whole vape reminds me of a far more down to earth, basic realization of the LSV's waterpipe adapter system, just without the ground glass and what may be a superior heating element.

Temperature is not adjustable, but if the Hakko 456 is switched on more time, vapor is more dense.

With Delicatessen Vape, weed is vaporized in less hits than Herborizer, maybe delicatessen vape is heater than herborizer.

Only with hakko 456 you can smoking, Hakko with delicatessen vape + pyramidal bowl is a mix smoke and vapor. And hakko with delicatessen vape + delicatessen bowl is only vapor.

I'm making a video using Delicatessen vape. As soon as possible I'll upload it.

Regards
 
NineDelta,

nr-cole

Well-Known Member
Kinda reminds me of a mini VHW. Very modest, simple setup, I kinda like it. If we had more reviews/testaments to it's quality and durability I'd probably take a serious look at it.

Off-topic, but wasn't VHW working on a miniature model? Did that ever happen?
 
nr-cole,

akwardsauce

gold all in my chains...dont believe me just watch
ITNinja said:
Im not sure on the ethics of this but let's just say any man is more than welcome to create whatever he should like. Period.

Anyway, I would like share with everyone something that I have been working on for two years, Which is about the time I saw the Eclipse Pipe (Essential Vaaaape back then) and wanted to create the same thing myself, For about 80 bucks less considering I had some vials lying around. Through 2 years of tinkering I came to a simple solution that is essentially one of those, Oh that's been lying around the whole time under my nose concepts. So let me unveil it and we can move on. (I dont think it's anything special).:cool:

http://imbx.us/LxW.jpg

http://imbx.us/L8B.jpg

Ok so, Essentially we can see how it works. The same as the Eclipse. Trick being that the carb hole is very small, As it is a groove cut into the wood at a 90 degree tangent. Think pac-man with his mouth open. This allows air into the vial and up the mouthpiece to deliver sweet sweet nectar.

So all the shit I ran into trying to make this thing eventually all came down to the fact that I was just to ignorant to the entire process and it stumped me to one point that I did not try for a long while. As usual the reason something isn't feasible is lack of knowledge. :brow:

Pitfall one, Tasted like crap. Couldnt understand why, nor could I get it to taste good no matter what. Thought it might be what I was using to draw the vapor out, Which was a silicon tube attached to the vial just like to my vape wand. Assumed that I needed pyrex vial's as opposed to the regular glass one's I was using. Didnt have much time to piss with it then, Nor did I have oil. So dropped it for a bit.

Got pyrex viles (Borrosillicate Glass) I just bought replacement for the eclipse on ebay. Still tasted crap. Found that I was heating it to much and the tube was gettin to hot and melting, Cant be hitting silicone. So we tried dear antler, Being the redkneck family I have. Considering my father's corncob pipe has lasted him 25 years and well over 100 strains lol, He at first didnt care for vaporizer's but I got him hooked. The antler worked but did not have a very secure fit. Then of course I saw the dole rod. Which worked perfectly, I shaved it to a point to fit further into the vial, The porous wood itself made a good tight hold and seal, And no melted taste.

As for the rest. If your oil tastes bad it's because your not heating the top of the vial enough, The vapor pool's at the bottom and burn's (It doesnt reach flash point but it scorches nonetheless). Thing being that THC and other liquid oil's can vaporize without the need to reach boiling temp's. So the key to the VIAL as I call it, Is to be sure to heat the entire glass, It's extremely important. You barely have to heat it if you do it right. With a normal bic you can get nice smooth tasting visible hit's with maybe 15 seconds of lighter time if that, Less for each hit. I see people on youtube just torching these things to milk their bongs. It's a waste as it's burning alot of the oil in their off and giving them a horrible coughing fit.

Anyway, There it is. Pyrex is god, It disperses heat well. That's why you need pyrex, Otherwise your heat becomes to focused and unspread out around the glass and you burn your oil instead of vape it.

peace:peace:


wish i could see those pics though...i was considering an eclipse/essential vaaapp...
 
akwardsauce,

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
i think it works by increasing the voltage i dont know whats the range but i thing its between 1V and 1.4 V
U can use a light control knob.. i think ..
 
Abysmal Vapor,

Seek

Apprentice Daydreamer
I don't believe homemade boxes can work well, unless someone builds them absolutely the same, as the MF.
While it looks simple in construction, there is a lot of math to do before. Like computing the resistance of the screen (0.05 ohms for the box - can you measure it?), shaping it to have good and even IR+conduction heating. The most common thing I see is using screens that are not fine enough. These must have lower resistance (thicker "wires" in the screen). Also a person needs to make it efficient in a time - heat in seconds, cools in seconds and doesn't go higher fast.

If a battery get too hot in 10 secs, it means its drawing too much current (not a fine screen). The original box can have a battery in for 60+ seconds and it's safe for it.

I've seen some homemade boxes on the web. Was a little funny (or inducing crying?) to read these boxes don't heat enough, or heat too much. Or the makers say it works good and heats in 60 seconds (!).

As the box looks simple, it's hard to make. I knew this so didn't try to make a cube of wood, instead I've bought the MFLB, it works well, it's cheap and has a lifetime warranty. If a homemade box breaks (assuming it worked before) you have work to do.
 
Seek,

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
100$ is not cheap compared to the cost of the home made version.. And i bet The home made version can be made more powerful than the original.. Which i have to say is an awesome vape.. but the draw is slow..
 
Abysmal Vapor,

Dberm

Active Member
I've been wanting to make my own lb style vape for some time. I finally got some money so I think I'll start gathering supplies. Just out of curiosity, does anyone know what screen size is similar to the lb's? I'm looking at 304 stainless steel with around a 60-80x60-80 fine mesh. No idea what these numbers translate to real world though.

Definitely curious about using other batteries... I actually wouldn't mind having a nice home sized unit.

Ok so I found a soure for wood. Gonna use purple heart. I will be doing a body that splits in half so it allows access to the screen and the pressure between the copper coated steel rods will be acheived with rare earth magnets so no soldering or anything like that.

Does anyone know if there are any dangers with having powerful earth magnets near batteries?
 
Dberm,

Hippie Dickie

The Herbal Cube
Manufacturer
.. but the draw is slow..

i am finding this is a crucial aspect of (some) vape designs. For example, i reduced the number of intake holes in the bottom of my vial from 7 to 4, and the tokes are thicker -- i think. (i would need more precise bud loads to know for sure.) More tests are underway.

If there is a fairly wide/broad/deep bud load, it is necessary for the hot air to embrace the bud for a longer time period before the trichomes can be melted and the THC vaporized -- unless there is a fan assist, where the volume of air is designed to match the physical size of the bowl and the temperature is maintained accurately.

re: magnets -- i my experience high heat kills magnets.

To amplify this point just a bit -- i tried running the current through a rare earth magnet. The problem i had was not getting enough contact area -- there would be a point of contact, which would be higher resistance and thus generate intense heat (which destroyed the magnet).

i have found the best connection is a gas-tight mechanical attachment -- a screw smashing the two parts together -- at least until i get a spot welder.
 
Hippie Dickie,

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Dude the design was hilarious but working.. It was a wooden stem into an eclipse vial with a hole.. on one of the sides few cm away from the bottle.. Buy 10 vials.. with free shipment off ebay and in the worst case you will have some extra oil storage vials.. or 10 extra when you buy the eclipse.. :) which goes bout 40 on bids on e-bay or amazon.. and its easier to clean than the wooden tube... also looks nice.. and more compact.. but.. u can get 1000 wooden tubes.. :D for a little cash i guess..
 
Abysmal Vapor,
Woof! Not a big fan of that form factor.

I guess I prefer the Italians knocking off an American product to the Chinese doing it! At least the Itals will probably make a quality knockoff. The implications of the apparently larger bowl size are interesting.

Jesus, they knocked it off down to the goddamn tin box.

Your constant addition of crazy, interesting stuff onto this forum is really appreciated, Abysmal. That vape might be worth its own vape-specific thread.
 
charliedontsurf,

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
charliedontsurf said:
Woof! Not a big fan of that form factor.

I guess I prefer the Italians knocking off an American product to the Chinese doing it! At least the Itals will probably make a quality knockoff. The implications of the apparently larger bowl size are interesting.

Jesus, they knocked it off down to the goddamn tin box.

Your constant addition of crazy, interesting stuff onto this forum is really appreciated, Abysmal. That vape might be worth its own vape-specific thread.
I am going to order one tomorrow.. 99% sure.. Anyway i am tired of my MFLB.. The small bowl is kind of boring to me.. And i bet this would work with the PA :)
 
Abysmal Vapor,

Dberm

Active Member
Just went down to the industrials and picked up WAY more 200 mesh ss screen than I needed.

Any of you other DIY'ers need any shoot me a pm!

I'm going to try and make something like the MFLB but without the plexiglass window and with an integrated mouth piece that is stored with magnets to hold it in place.
 
Dberm,

Dberm

Active Member
Hippie Dickie said:
.. but the draw is slow..

i am finding this is a crucial aspect of (some) vape designs. For example, i reduced the number of intake holes in the bottom of my vial from 7 to 4, and the tokes are thicker -- i think. (i would need more precise bud loads to know for sure.) More tests are underway.

If there is a fairly wide/broad/deep bud load, it is necessary for the hot air to embrace the bud for a longer time period before the trichomes can be melted and the THC vaporized -- unless there is a fan assist, where the volume of air is designed to match the physical size of the bowl and the temperature is maintained accurately.

re: magnets -- i my experience high heat kills magnets.

To amplify this point just a bit -- i tried running the current through a rare earth magnet. The problem i had was not getting enough contact area -- there would be a point of contact, which would be higher resistance and thus generate intense heat (which destroyed the magnet).

i have found the best connection is a gas-tight mechanical attachment -- a screw smashing the two parts together -- at least until i get a spot welder.

Hippie the earth magnet would ideally be far enough away from the conductive copper clad steel rods contact point with the mesh that the mesh will be cool by that point and will hopefully not damage the magnet while still holding the screen in place.

I've got some ideas and I think they make sense, but most of my friends are idiots and I am terrible at explaining my ideas so I'm not really able to effectively bounce ideas off of them. I'm working with basically only an electric drill, a dremel, and a saw. In the process of making a prototype to see if my magnet idea will work then I'll go from there.
 
Dberm,

Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
buddyinbc said:
Just been super busy with work lately but I've got a few days off so I think I'm going to take up this project again. Should have the 3rd edition of it by the end of the weekend

Does anyone know how the magic flight power adapter works. I'm very interested in attempting to make one of those myself as well

Any help or ideas would be great


I played around with this for a little while but gave up. If I remember right, the mflb uses low voltage and high amperage. Off the top of my head the power requirements were .75 volts and 15 amps. I looked at all the ac adapters in my house and none could provide the voltage with that high of amperage. You could find one online, but I decided it wasn't worth the time. Anyways IMO, a PA would take away most of the appeal of the mflb.
 
Bouldorado,

WatTyler

Revolting Peasant
^ the dc power supply for the PA is just a standard 12v 1.25A supply
Maybe the box works different with PA & needs less amps? Or there's some electrical wizardry goes on in the control unit?
 
WatTyler,

Seek

Apprentice Daydreamer
PA has to convert High Voltage/Low Currency to Low Voltage/High currency. Maybe some special converter or something. As the wattage is Voltage*Currency, it should be equivalent. Also, I've looked on the site of that MFLB ripoff, what a terrible English.
 
Seek,

Dberm

Active Member
I am having a very tough time finding copper clad steel wire anywhere locally or even online! Does anyone know where I can find this apparently rare item, or could you suggest another more easily sourced material that I could use in place of the copper clad steel wire used for the battery connections on the magic flight launch box?
 
Dberm,
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