Halo-log

[Abysmal Vapor]

I've been playing recently with various concepts for halogen vaporizers . Inspired by the other DIY threads in the forum i decided to start my own .
So far i've tested both 220v and 12 v options and for safety reasons i would go with 12 volts,sadly this would involve a bulky PSU.. and a dimmer.
My main inspiration is the MUSA vaporizer which i think is a perfection in Aesthetics and i wish could afford to get one . I like almost everything about it the shape , the concept. The only think i dont like is the that it uses ELBs. I have recently the chance to try them and i cannot help myself but detect metalic taste... tried soaking and torching,it is still there.. I would prefer that my concept to be used with standard bowl like the vapocane and herborizer bowls. I also prefer watching the herb while vaporizing this is just a thing that brings too much satisfaction to overlook,my favorite vaporizer videos sofar are those of Glass Symphony so i want my vaporizer design to offer that too. .
The concept sofar.
Inside
12v 60 w PSU
Led Dimmer with a remote control.
option 1 19mm Male Joint for the heater
option 2 19mm female for the heater
currently using Stainless Steel wire 0.7 mm ,i plan to use 1 or 1.2mm when i get my hands on them
2.1mm socket for the PSU jack.
NO SOLDERING
50w Osram bulb
For the Body
I plan to use a friends lathe to make some classic logvape shapes,already have some experience with that.
SS316 1mm thick foil to wrap the wood on the inside which also will act as a reflector.
Pics will follow once i get new batch of parts, i sacrificed the glass ones for making some Gn0mes and currently i am out of it.

 

[lazylathe]

Love all of the halogen vape development going on at the moment!!
Nice clean and easy heat source.

I dream of a DIY digital halogen vape with a thermocouple to regulate the bulbs output!

Looking forward to your developments!!!

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@lazylathe Do you mean PID control or just for reading the temp ? I already tried that and i wont be doing it.. for that reason

I find that blinking not pleasant and not good for the life of bulbs )
Maybe a thermostat is not a bad idea but again i think it would cause more on's/off's than i can handle visually .

 

[lazylathe]

What if the bulbs light had to turn a slight corner and reduce the blinking?
Something like the Herbalizer, the bulb blinks but it is not annoying at all.
Also it will not be such a large housing as in the video, i would imagine.

I know the straight glass tube housing the bulb surrounded by a protective core is the standard.

I tend to go outside the box!

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Well i think that wrapping the bulb in SS mesh will add better heat exchange with air and also great mass to the heater and mainly dim that blinding light a little bit. I want to use as little metal as possible,but i have yet to go trough various mesh sizes of the ss316 and see how it affects the taste . Maybe adding a t couple inside the mesh burrito for the PID ?
What i dont like about thermo couples that they have cables which if left bare along with the other two bare wires can cause some shorts. If i am going that way i will leave them out of the airpath for sure. No plastic or fiberglass in the airpath of this one only SS and GLASS .
I wont use ceramic socket either,i have yet to find some that are properly glazed,all look like having potential for dusting off .. i dont trust them with heir leads made of unknown metals and some even have MICA.

 

[lazylathe]

Totally agree that you need a custom base of known materials.

Have you checked out the Musa Vaporizer? Similar to what you are doing but he has a custom control box for dimming and temp control.

Adding as much mass as you can will be beneficial in aiding long hits, they mesh is the key! I would imagine you want a super fine mesh in there to protect the bulb from debris.

Exciting stuff bro!!!

@Abysmal Vapor
Forgot to add this as i thought it may interest you!
Thought you may be able to print a ceramic base that is glazed with only two holes for the bulbs wires.
Glass Symphony XLR
So a simple design to hold the bulb in a nice bright white reflective surface.
Maybe @StormyPinkness could let us know where the printing is done?
Just something to ponder.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@lazylathe I mentioned in the OP that MUSA is my main MUSA for this project . I am monitoring closely the GS thread . Honestly i prefer to use available parts rather than creating my own,i think i will have enough fun with the wood turning alone ).
As far as the dimmer and PSU i will try to fit those in one wooden base/box,which might have a mounted bubbler stands like the ones in the TUBO shop. As beautiful as the MUSA is i feel like the power supply and the PWM controller could have been thought something else . If PID control gets into this project it will also be placed inside the wooden box,sounds fun but also a like a lot of work, i am going baby steps with this project ,once there is a solid working concept i will consider extras.
I have some concerns that mesh might reduce the life of bulb,but since the creator of the MUSA seems to already have this added to his concept, i take it it is not a big issue.
Also it would probably help to hold the element in placeand avoid wobbling anddirect contact with the glass joint

The diagram is a bit misleading but i plan to insert the wood base into the wooden tube, i wanna achieve something similar to what is present in the budget HI's .

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

A problem with the supplier of my glass parts would cause some delay about a week or two ,but the other parts are starting to arrive one by one.
So fat i got 78w 12v PSU it is good to have 20% advance .(60w is ok too)
Remote controlled PWM dimmer rated for 96w at 12v
5 X osram 50w 12v Halostar rated for 4000h
Still waiting on the 200 mesh , ss316L wires,SS 1,5mm 316L foil,and glass joints,but hopefully they will be here soon enough.
I have a few wooden and bamboo bodies prepared for the outer shell ,but still havent prepared the bases that will hold the heater cover.
A soon as the mesh and wires arrive i will be able to do another working prototype , i have figured a modular heater cover which is entirely made of Glass on glass adapters and even by changing the top adapter you can opt within both 18 and 14mm ,male and female . )

 

[atadam]

I was planning to create my own tread actually but you got a similar one going already.
My aim was producing a mildly-safe & full glass-wood air path DIY vaporizer prototype. I won't buy steel probably, I want more of a salvaged-vaporizer. As you two (or other members) may answer, what are the chances to insulate metal on e14 type bulbs? I got balsa wood (pretty soft), some glass bottles (beer, soft drinks, etc. NOT thermoglass), osram 46w(?) e14 halogen bulb, and a cheap ass 2k dimmer.

Abysmal - those links helped me at the beginning, you might have already seen though; those are definitely not ideal but give some intuition:
https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/diy-halogen-bulb-vaporizer.1401560/
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=129431
https://www.reddit.com/r/StonerEngi...hey_guys_i_made_a_diy_halogen_bulb_vaporizer/

sorry for hijacking also
https://prnt.sc/jbgriv

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Hey @atadam ! Yes i have tripped upon those links .
This one will be 12v for safety reasons,and no PID at least for now,because as seeing in the video above it causes a lot of flickering. I dont use screwable bulbs,cause i dont wanna have a socket and more metal in the airpath. I am going to use Osram Halostar pro which has 2 stainless pins and it is leadfree.
Led dimmers are the same price as the 2kdimmers. The only thing that you need extra for the led setup is a cheap PSU i got mine for 8$.
I am pretty sure of what my concept is going to be already , i had a working protype ,but i dismantled it to use the glass for other vapes.
Using SS reflector is a must IMO,because otherwise heat and light might cause damage to the wood .

 

[atadam]

I can totally stand behind the 12v logic. Yet, aren't halogen bulbs weakened if contacted oils, etc; and ceramic G4 holders are not to be trusted IMO (as you mentioned unidentified metals and not so credible ceramic). I truly wonder if there is an insulator that could seal the glass-wood gap to block the metal parts from electronics (like the e14 screw). I do have g6.35 50w Osram halogen bulb but i see it as a future portable vape project than on desktop. But as you said Osram 2 SS pin bulb, that might change. One more thing, does wood cause any problem/risk in the air path if assured not burned. I guess not (specifically balsa).

 

[blokenoname]

A soon as the mesh and wires arrive i will be able to do another working prototype , i have figured a modular heater cover which is entirely made of Glass on glass adapters and even by changing the top adapter you can opt within both 18 and 14mm ,male and female . )

Well, I experimented with a modular heater cover last week for my 'Cork-Bomber' project, which will finally also get a MUSA style halogen heater (for now I'm still using the Herborizer XL injector instead). So started out with a 18.8mm female joint, which would then easily accommodate a 14mm female adapter, a 18.8mm double male, a 14mm double male within the 14mm female and so on. But then I decided that this was a) terrible bulky and anyway more or less overkill and settled again for the 18.8mm male, for which I created a simple adapter tip, that takes 10mm (outer diameter) tips inside the heater cover and everything else, 11mm (inner diameter) and larger can go over the cover (made this primarily for compatibility with Arizer Air/Solo stems, which have that 11mm inner diameter, as these are the only glass stems and WPAs, that I can easily get my hands on in European vapo shops. And you can still use the 18.8mm joint all by itself naturally, to connect to anything glass.

How do you intend to fasten the glass heater cover? After trying this and that and getting very frustrated in the process, I simply (and only temporarily) fastened mine with a piece of high temp silicone tubing, wrapped around the cover and friction fitting it into the wood. Works perfectly well (even after 8 hours of use, the silicone tubing shows not a hint of fatigue, melting or deformation), but -as one would expect- has a faint, but noticeable odour on high temps, that will surely make purists cower in fear .

So I finally will settle for this method, Alan uses in the budget Bamboo and other glass heater cover HIs, I guess:

Basically a perforated aluminum (or other type of metal) plate, with the center part cut and bent to form a flange for the glass tube, that is then simply screwed onto the wooden base.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Well, I experimented with a modular heater cover last week for my 'Cork-Bomber' project, which will finally also get a MUSA style halogen heater (for now I'm still using the Herborizer XL injector instead). So started out with a 18.8mm female joint, which would then easily accommodate a 14mm female adapter, a 18.8mm double male, a 14mm double male within the 14mm female and so on. But then I decided that this was a) terrible bulky and anyway more or less overkill and settled again for the 18.8mm male, for which I created a simple adapter tip, that takes 10mm (outer diameter) tips inside the heater cover and everything else, 11mm (inner diameter) and larger can go over the cover (made this primarily for compatibility with Arizer Air/Solo stems, which have that 11mm inner diameter, as these are the only glass stems and WPAs, that I can easily get my hands on in European vapo shops. And you can still use the 18.8mm joint all by itself naturally, to connect to anything glass.

How do you intend to fasten the glass heater cover? After trying this and that and getting very frustrated in the process, I simply (and only temporarily) fastened mine with a piece of high temp silicone tubing, wrapped around the cover and friction fitting it into the wood. Works perfectly well (even after 8 hours of use, the silicone tubing shows not a hint of fatigue, melting or deformation), but -as one would expect- has a faint, but noticeable odour on high temps, that will surely make purists cower in fear .

So I finally will settle for this method, Alan uses in the budget Bamboo and other glass heater cover HIs, I guess:

Basically a perforated aluminum (or other type of metal) plate, with the center part cut and bent to form a flange for the glass tube, that is then simply screwed onto the wooden base.

I will just use a large cork cap and stick the glasscover into it. Cork is very good at handling higher temps than some other woods .
For now i am just experimenting with various heater cover concepts, I have some bodies ready ,but until i dont get the mesh and get this thing going like it should ,i wont be focusing on assembly. I am pretty satisfied with this composition with regular cork plugs i can even cut them in halves and stick that shit i some bamboo.

I think that having glass cover made of adapter is very cool because u can alter between female and male bowls both in 19 and 14 sizes and why not even 10mm for bud stingers.
Also it doesn requires to take unit apart for a bulb change .

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Today i played with various cable sizes. Since i have only 0.5mm 316L i tried first 4 x 0.5 then 6x and finally 8x the more i increase the gauge,the more the heat of the wires decreased ,i am quite sure i was getting the e-cig coil effect just because i ran too much amps trough it.This was by far the most concerning part of this build. The plug also stays really cool, unlike the ones on my logvapes.
Cant wait for the mesh to arrive. I think i didnt order the best variety, i should have gone with more rigid ones,i just discovered that mesh for ecig atomizers is preferably soft weave.. and i prefer having a more rigid one.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

I just got my first really great session with the Halo-log. Nice clouds and taste with directly loading into a bowl.

I really need some mesh to reduce that blinding light even though it works fine without it.Added second roll of wooden peg-halves and not it is not shining in my fase while hitting it, problem is that if you put it somewhere lol, it is unpleasant to look at it when you pick it up.
I left it on overnight on, the wood on the edge of the top pegs is one tone browner but nothing charred or anything like that.

 

[lazylathe]

@Abysmal Vapor

Have you thought about adding a shield of sorts to the inside of the gong?
I was thinking a thin sheet of SS, the same as the Aromed uses the shield the bulb from blinding the user.

You can see it in action here:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/aromed-4-0.408/page-17#post-437023

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@Abysmal Vapor

Have you thought about adding a shield of sorts to the inside of the gong?
I was thinking a thin sheet of SS, the same as the Aromed uses the shield the bulb from blinding the user.

You can see it in action here:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/aromed-4-0.408/page-17#post-437023

Still waiting for SS mesh,SS wires ,SS steel , Glass parts.. I was just fooling arond with whats at hand.
I had some 500 soft mesh which was doing the trick but i torched it and it fell apart.. I wanted to get rid of the metalic taste.should have used the stove.. I hope the 200 mesh is more rigid.. the ecig mesh is not really my thing.
Yes i have considered to go ala aromed,but i have postponed until arrival of the goodies. Even thought of gettin a stand something like the element vaporizer but with detachable log.

Edited: Forgot to comment on the extraction power. I have better bowls coming from China but even with the current i finish the load in 2-3 inhalations just like logvapes .

 

[blokenoname]

How about looking for a temporary body, until you've the oppertunity to turn something yourself? Can't find the Maplewood cups I use on US Amazon, but there's plenty of wooden stuff, you can utilize.

I just ordered some of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744Z6ZNZ/ref=twister_B0744VCNJB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

How about looking for a temporary body, until you've the oppertunity to turn something yourself? Can't find the Maplewood cups I use on US Amazon, but there's plenty of wooden stuff, you can utilize.

I just ordered some of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744Z6ZNZ/ref=twister_B0744VCNJB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Thx for the suggestions i have a friend with lathe who lets me use it sometimes and could help me with guidance, as mentioned i have already a few wooden cups that we did together. I havent gotten around messing with them cause i dont wanna waste them until i get my SS plates for heat shielding.
Careful with some of those cheap cups,some of them might be finished or sprayed with conservatives .i wouldnt trust anything that i havent made myself or infront of my very eyes. Also i prefer the natural cover of bamboo this seem like they are peeled,i would rather get some to cut it.
Anyway i really like the goblet shapes, i would be pretty comfortable to hold one i imagine.

 

[blokenoname]

Well, I've to wait and see, how the Bamboo cups work out. Takes two weeks, till they arrive. Up until now, I used these Maple cups here:

https://www.amazon.de/Hofmeister-Ho...F8&qid=1525992015&sr=8-16&keywords=holzbecher

This is just raw, unfinished wood stuff, untreated with anything. Directly from the lathe.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

SS mesh plays a huge role for sure. I cut a cloud bullet and put it as a sleeve to the bulb,pff i have to dim down to 30-35% to get the same results as full power and now it is kind of pleasant to watch. Also it is wide mesh and doesnt stop the light.
There is one bulb called Osram Halostar Oven and the highest powered is 20w ,but i think now that even that might be enough ). The cool thing about this bulb is its specs.

Product benefits

• Two to three times the luminous efficiency of conventional oven lighting
• Optimum halogen content for high temperatures
• Tempered pins for reliable contact at high temperatures
• Suitable for pyrolysis (permissible ambient temperature 450 °C)
• Contains no mercury
  Areas of application
  • Baking ovens
  Product remark Heat-resistant up to 300°CLamp suitable for oven with high temperature self cleaning (Lamps must be switched off! Max. ambient temperature 450 °C)For use in shielded luminaires only
  
  Sidenote on the cloud bullet. I have mentioned that i get horrible metallic taste with it. After some experiments i figured out the cultprit is the rim of the screens and i even though arizer cups have similar rim this one is way smellier, escpecially when get it wet . When wetted metallic odor increases tenfold.. idk why is that,but is the reason i dont drink from metal cups .
  I think the rims on Cloud bullets is 304 SS which smells way more metallic that 316/316L and Ti
  The mesh sleeve itself after a whole night burnoff now has almost zero metallic smell.
  They are very comfy to use ,but i think i will alter to a mesh wrap,i prefer 316L or Ti mesh screen. I even have plans on trying to wrap some ss clapton or alien coil around the bulb.
  
  Sidenote for the male vs female end of the heater. For the future of the Halo-log i think i will choose a female ending and try to put the SS foil shield outside the glass just whjere the bulb is,not that i wont try the Aromed style too.. Even have some plans on getting a probe sensor underneath the ss,to see how responsive it is during hits.

 

[blokenoname]

The cloud bullet! YES!

You, Sir, are a friggin' genius !

Exactly the right form factor. Fits like a glove and together with a heatsink/reflector breaks the light finally enough, to no longer be a dealbreaker. This rocks !

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

The cloud bullet! YES!

You, Sir, are a friggin' genius !

Exactly the right form factor. Fits like a glove and together with a heatsink/reflector breaks the light finally enough, to no longer be a dealbreaker. This rocks !

) Yep it is really easy fit but also costly 5 euro a piece.. . I think 316L mesh 200 would be superior to this 100 mesh 304?. But it makes temps really fuckin stable,do you noticed that you need to decrease your temps compared to your previous mesh build? I temps outside of the glass are like 50 C at the hottest points.. i dont even see the need for the reflector anymore.. It makes zero damage to the wooden pegs.,
Do you notice any humming when you dimm the light ?
Please get rid of those connectors in the airpath dude, they are very close to the bulb are god knows if they are leadfree.. the bolts are also probably ZINC.
@blokenoname Do you actually own a MUSA vaporizer as well ?

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Here are some Oak goblets made at my friends place ,Didnt have the right size of sanding paper so finishing is a bit rough,those charred lines are made with wire while the wood rotates ,it is really cool process.

 

[blokenoname]

Well… apparently, I’m totally hopeless at forming those nice spiral shapes out of that rigid 1,5 mm ss wire. I tried it cold, tried it red hot... no chance. Always results in a mess, but nothing, those pins would find any hold in
So the connectors will stay, until I find a more suitable solution, that provides an easy connection.

I had to reduce heat, after installing the heatsink/reflector. As for the fine mesh.. can’t really tell, as I never really tried it without any kind of fine mesh covering to begin with. Usually, I just use a single 20mm ss fine mesh screen and so far, I don’t see any differences in performance, when using a cut up ELB screen instead. It’s just, that it covers more of the bulb (fracturing the light a bit better) and that the form factor is more suitable for sticking it into a glass tube.

Yup. I own a MUSA. There are a ton of pics of my MUSA mods in the MUSA thread.

There is some high pitched humming at the upper and lower and of the dial, when using the cheap12V/3A LED dimmer from Amazon, but I realized, that this only happens, when I use that dimmer together with a 12V/3A power adapter. It’s more or less gone, when I use a 12V/5A power adapter instead.

ETA: The reflector is not so much to protect the wood, but stores heat and at the same time fractures the glare of the bulb even more. Put one in, and you'll see, it's much better to look at the light then.

If this were my goblets... you'd see 3 Log-vapes now