Flowerpot question
- Thread starter exony
- Start date
If you wanna vape flowers primarily, this is all you need to pair with your 20mm barrel coil and enail.
Showerhead Set
https://www.newvape.com/showerhead-combo-20mm-2
Bowl of your choice (panhead/shovelhead/stubby/OG)
Titanium Showercap if you plan on doing any dabbing or just like the restricted airflow.
Glass of your choice (make sure your FP bowl and joints match)
Showerhead Set
https://www.newvape.com/showerhead-combo-20mm-2
Bowl of your choice (panhead/shovelhead/stubby/OG)
Titanium Showercap if you plan on doing any dabbing or just like the restricted airflow.
Glass of your choice (make sure your FP bowl and joints match)
That was like perfectly worded, I seriously appreciate that. Do you know if this should rip fatter than my arizer v tower? Wasnt able to get fat rips with that to simulate a tobacco bong rip. I want to be able to toast as much as the bowl as quickly as possible to help quit smoking.
I was considering using a heat gun on the bong but im willing to do this if its safer and will still give me huge hits
I was considering using a heat gun on the bong but im willing to do this if its safer and will still give me huge hits
Vaporware
Well-Known Member
You can crank up the heat and get full extraction of a decent amount in 1-2 hits. Check out some of the videos in the main FlowerPot thread; @invertedisdead has some big bong rips there for example.
It does have a very open airflow, so if you want thicker vapor faster at lower temperatures the carb cap helps. At higher heat settings it’s optional even for that in my opinion, but I’m glad I have it when I want it anyway.
I always recommend extra screens too, and be aware that if you don’t buy a stand (or buy the HOT post and make your own stand) you’ll need a coffee mug or soldering iron stand or something that you can safely put it down on while it’s on but not in use.
It does have a very open airflow, so if you want thicker vapor faster at lower temperatures the carb cap helps. At higher heat settings it’s optional even for that in my opinion, but I’m glad I have it when I want it anyway.
I always recommend extra screens too, and be aware that if you don’t buy a stand (or buy the HOT post and make your own stand) you’ll need a coffee mug or soldering iron stand or something that you can safely put it down on while it’s on but not in use.
Ill end up rigging something for a stand so hot pieces are kept safe. The thing is, when I smoke a tobacco bong rip I roast the whole thing 1 hit so thats why I need this. Would the heating element be kept seperate from the stanky nasty tobacco bowl so i can have another clean one for greens
Vaporware
Well-Known Member
Yes, the heating element sits on the nut above the bowl. Unless you pile a mountain above the rim of the bowl, it will not touch.
You guys are awesome! Seriously the exact information I needed. I am so excited to go through with this and see how it works. I feel like if I can actually find a solid vapor replacement for these tobacco bong rips, I could help a lot of my close friends switch to a healthier alternative and stop them from coughing up black shit every morning.
Vaporware
Well-Known Member
If you’re actually using it for tobacco your experience will be different from the rest of us, but there is a thread specifically on vaporizing tobacco that would benefit from hearing your experiences, and they might have some tips for you.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vaporizing-tobacco-not-e-cigs.29/
If you plan to use tobacco and other materials at different times, you might want a second bowl so you don’t have to clean them as often to keep the experiences clearly separated (assuming you want to).
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vaporizing-tobacco-not-e-cigs.29/
If you plan to use tobacco and other materials at different times, you might want a second bowl so you don’t have to clean them as often to keep the experiences clearly separated (assuming you want to).