Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by jackhammer, Sep 8, 2016.
So where would this 3rd wire connect?
On one end it should be connected between the two cells and on the other one I don't know, there must be a pad somewhere on the PCB for it. When you'll dismantle your unit you should see where it's connected and mark the spot for later.
Don't worry, nothing hard really. But you will need to connect it otherwise the BMS will bad trip!
Thanks Zeroken. Makes sense. Only going to give this a go when the internal batteries start to wear. Got my swift pro off ebay - so warranty is already dodgy.
For the price of 2 18650 batteries you could probably buy a portable power bank.
The more I use this vape the more I seem to like it. Wasn't that impressed when I first got my hands on it and went back to my other vapes. Then I re-read this thread and thought I'd give it another go. I don't know what I was doing wrong the first time but loving it now. I thought it was too lightweight and it took to long to complete a session. Now I think the weight is perfect and it's so easy to use.
Read that you can get good results when it's attached to a bubbler too. How are you guys setting this up. Do the water pipe adapter's from the other Flowermate models work on this or do you need to use some sort of whip? Looks like this guy is using a water pipe adapter
Click to play YouTube Video
Use the Boundless Vapes WPA. It works beautifully. Flowermate and Boundless are made by same team?
Yes. Boundless and flowermate products are both made in the same manufacturing facility. I haven't found the need to use a WPA with the swift pro. The vapor, even on the highest temperature has never been hot enough that I deemed it necessary.
Thanks, exactly what I was looking for!
You're welcome! I will say I have a more sensitive throat that others, but the swift pro hasn't been too hot for me. I still think using it with a water piece wI'll definitely benefit some users who want even cooler and more conditioned vapor. I use glass with most of my units, so there is a benefit.
First time FC User and first post here.
I own the Swift Pro and have allready my first Problem. The draw resistance.
I have to pull way to hard to get the air flowing. Maybe something is blocking the 5 small holes on the bottom. I have seen the teardown on Puffitup.
BUT: how do I get the bottom plate off to get to the 2 screws ??
Are you sure that's not coming from the mouthpice caked with resin?
Draw resistance doesn't bother me so much.... until I connect it to a water tool where the small resistance could be annoying. Although this vape rest amazing tool for vaping!
Nope. The Swift is new. Evan with empty bowl, it's hard to draw.
The mouthpice by itself is easy to draw.
So there must be something wrong with the holes at the bottom. But to check that, I have to remove the bottom plate first to get to the screws.
Try to contact @Vape Dr. he opened his own unit to mod the air inlets.
What about to contact the seller to get a replacement unit...?
I just replayed to @Vape Dr. on his intake airflow mod.
Draw resistance is part of the design AFAIK.
Yes, that could be.
But in my case the rubber seal on the intake was blocking the whole air!
I took the Swift appart and fixed it. Now the resistance is way less than bevor
and the way it should be
Ah, fine! It was hard to tell from a distance as draw resistance is rather subjective. But I still do find that my SwiftPro has one of the highest resistance in my arsenal. It doesn't bother me too much but sometimes I do feel that I have to work harder than usual to overcome it, especially when switching to completely free flowing vapes like the Mi/Zi etc.
Hey all. I just received my Swift from PIU a few hours ago and have two quick questions.
1) How do you change from Celsius to Fahrenheit?
2) I charged it up, the battery icon was solid and full, so I put in some AVP to give it a first run to get any residual smell out and the battery shows 3/4 full.... That can't be right, can it? It was running for less than 2 minutes. I know that battery isn't supposed to be great, but this seems like a defect, no?
Other than that, I really like the feel of this guy. The plastic doesn't bother me at all, it feels good in my hand. I love how easy the mouthpiece comes apart - much easier than Crafty. Can't wait to try this out later today. I have taken notes of tips from you all, so hopefully there won't be a learning curve to get max benefit! Happy 4/20 to all!
Hold the temp up down buttons together for two seconds to switch it between Celsius and Fahrenheit?
The battery meter is super wonky.. its by far my least favorite aspect of the vape. You can try charging it with other chargers, some seem to work better than others.
The temp trick works like a charm! And just switched to different charger and battery icon is flashing again, so maybe it's charging for real.
Appreciate the quick and helpful info!
I found with my CFV (same vape "under the hood") that it needs either a USB 3 connection or to be plugged into a 2.4 V charger slot.
If you don't give it enough power, it will not finish charging.
Your remark piqued my curiosity! On my unit it seems to complete its charge and the screen turns off, but as soon as I touch any button, the gauge reappears and it shows the last bar charging again.
I used a cheapo Chinese USB power meter and indeed the device tried for a short while to draw 0.9A out of my USB 2 port, which of course didn't like it (USB 2 spec is 500mA per device port only) Then the current jumped around and stabilized around 0.7A then 0.6Aish till it stopped.
Oddly I didn't really see any drop near the end during the CV phase, but maybe I was distracted at that time. Watching meters non stop is not really my passion!
So yes, it would be best to use USB 3 ports or a brick USB charger capable of 1A or more.
EDIT: from fully flat to fully charged, the meter recorded 1472mAh flowing through
Today I tested with a dedicated "brick" charger with 1A output. The meter read a current draw of 0.9A and stayed like this until the end. The mAh counter was 496 only this time, go figure...
Note that it's really a crappy el-cheapo USB meter that I'm using, the mAh value is always suspicious, but at least the V and A values look correct.
I don't completely understand what you said, but I totally appreciate the info!
Well it just confirms that it's best to use either a USB 3 port (or a special breed of USB 2 port meant specially for charging) or an external charger that you plug in the wall outlet.
The vape is drawing too much current for a classic USB 2 port (although some manufacturers overspec their ports so it may work more or less)
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