Tek ER V2 Revised BHO Tek

Many people have been injured while processing bho on a small scale for personal use. Some have died during the manufacture of bho, and other horrific injury's have occurred so some simple steps must be taken to ensure the product is safe to make and safe for
the consumer.I will outline these steps below.

Some potential dangers:
1.Butane exposure past regulatory limits (Depending on ventilation)
2.Explosion
3.Fire
4.Tube blowout (Material is shot out of tube from pressure)
5.Dirty unsafe or contaminated end product

In order to eliminate #1 good ventilation is necessary. When using an open system (Glass tube,sstb,pvc)
do the following to reduce the chance of 2 and 3 occurring:

Absolutely no smoking or ignition source of any kind
Always spray outdoors, no exceptions.
Always use adequate ventilation.
Static is a possibility, make sure you wear clothing that accounts for this and also adjust the flooring
of your spray area if needed.
Always evaporate any and all liquid butane outside.Pop some of the larger bubbles before you bring it inside if you wish to be cautious.

In order to eliminate the chance of 4 occurring you need to use a sufficient clamp and mesh/silkscreen setup.
Never spray with just coffee filters. In order to make the extraction efficient and of high quality
the pressure within the tube needs to get as high as possible without becoming a danger.
As an extra precaution always wear safety glass's.

Eliminating 5 is really up to whoever cooks the product.Fully wash the tube and pan before use.
Dont use cheap butane.I personally prefer vector and feel it's one of the only safe commercial butane brands.I do not care what brand butane you use as im not trying to push vector, but dont ask why your product comes out tasting like
sulfur or worse when using cheap butane. You realy do get what you pay for in my opinion.Also always process bho in a sterile environment.

PREP:
Grind material for best yield/more efficient extraction.(Break up into small chunks or use small buds for higher purity)Cut 1 or 2 coffee filters to the proper size for your tube.(As to minimize the oil lost to the filters)Use a tube that is up to specs. For smallish amounts it should be no more than 3/4 inch diameter.For 3/4 di the tube should be 10-12' long.Get a wooden dowel, drumstick or anything else you can pack your tube with.Make sure it fits snug so you can pack it properly.Take the material after its ground and put it all in the tube at once without packing it down.I prefer a heavy wall glass tube for extractions.Take dowel/drumstick ect. and put in tube, pack all material at once. Pack the tube as tight as possible. You can push the drumstick/dowel against the floor for leverage just be sure you dont break the glass or the packing tool.You want it packed as tight as possible.Secure clamp and filters. Tighten clamp as to ensure it will hold during the high pressure of the extraction.The higher the pressure the better the product.


EXTRACTION:
Take outside.
Lay pyrex dish in 95-105F water or oil(to prevent condensation). Change as needed. Insert butane can into tube. Apply lots of pressure on the can.Hold over center of pan. Let tube being to pressurize (It will if everything was done properly).You will hear a loud pop, and a splatter of oil will hit the pyrex. Make sure the tube is at the proper height or it can splash into the water. This is a large amount of the final yield. You can stop here if you choose and spray into a separate pyrex. The less butane you put into the product in the first place the easier it is to purge out. This is really only recommend for beginners, but will allow you to make a high quality oil fairly easily if your not experienced. Allow liquid butane to fully evaporate. Bring inside. Place on warm water (90-110F). The warmer the water the faster you can purge. When you pass a certain temperature you start to degrade active compounds, and at another (lower) temp terpens start being released at an extremely fast rate. I personally would never at any point of the purge put it in water that's even 125F but to each is own.When you get into the mid 100s terpens start to decay very fast. If you get close to 200F during the purge you will start to degrade cannabinoids at a fast rate.I recommend 90-110F the entire purge and i suggest you check your water with a thermometer.Keeping the water at a stable temp is key. In general one a half grams of oil (a quarter) takes 2-2 1/2 hours to fully purge on water.You can use cold baths to prevent terpens from escaping once enough butane has evaporated if you wish.If you want to be extra cautious you can purge for 3-4 hours but there will be allot more degradation then necessary If you are concerned about butane in the end product (The amount will be negligible in the end product anyway) let it sit spread out in a concentrate dish for a couple days.When using the cold water baths put the dish on warm water first and move it back and forth between the two every 10 mins or so(Adjust the time as needed).You do not want to use cold water bath while the product is still loaded with butane.This will trap the butane in the oil.The reason you cold water purge in this way is it causes expansion and contraction to occur, allowing butane to escape the oil as it expands and contracts.You must whip it and have it spread thin during this process for it to work optimally. If you are still worried about butane residues you can spread the oil very thin during the final steps of the purge.This will remove any visible bubbles. During the final step of the purge if you are having problems getting a nice consistency leave it on cold water for 15-30 mins as a last step before it goes in a dish.Whip it while it sits on cold water.You should be left with a nice product of a budder like consistency that smells and tastes great with negligible butane residue.
 
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Some swhag i ran using the v1 tek. The main difference between the two is the temp is lowered a little and time is adjusted for the v2 tek stuff making it come out lighter color most of the time.Ill post some newer clearer pictures soon.
 
In a pinch you can use pretty much any safe metal mesh material.The goal is to stop a tube blowout and plant matter in the end product.If you are having problems with plants material with a mesh setup cut an extra filter.I was at first using a different brand of filter that was not as thick. Different filters have dramatically different effects, and some brands should be avoided as they can trap oil.Try a couple different brands and find out what works the best for your setup.

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The plant material in the tube must be packed as tight as possible.
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ExtractionResearch,
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aesthyrian

Blaaaaah
Can you elaborate more on your reasoning for packing the tube as tight as possible? I have yet to find a general consensus on that matter, and IME when I pack my tube too tightly I seem to pull more chlorophyll's and the oil is darker.

You seem to have more experience than myself so I am just asking for the sake of learning.
 
aesthyrian,
Can you elaborate more on your reasoning for packing the tube as tight as possible? I have yet to find a general consensus on that matter, and IME when I pack my tube too tightly I seem to pull more and the oil is darker.

You seem to have more experience than myself so I am just asking for the sake of learning.
It is possible you are getting more chlorophyll's but this is most likely do to you using a slightly different method to make your stuff.It seems that it depends on the grinding method and also the source material and the gear you use to extract. Some people say they cannot get a light oil when they grind the herb. I do not have this problem.The product comes out almost as light (strain dependent) as if the herb was not ground at all or slightly broken up.I personally always attributed this to the fact that a higher pressure inside the extraction vessel (tighter pack) allows for a more efficient extraction and seems to reduce the amount of chlorophyll's and contaminates in your oil(consider how co2 works so well primarily due to the pressure involved).The tube seems to pressurize very well when the material is ground to the proper size and packed as tight as possible.It is quite possible that packing this tight while using whole buds or bigger pieces could have a negative effect on quality. Ime when doing multiple runs on the same material the run in which the pressure gets the highest seems to come out the lightest in color and be the strongest of all the batches.I attributed this to the fact that butane, just like co2, becomes more selective for the good stuff (thc/actives)and less selective for the bad stuff(chlorophyll's/contaminates) the higher the pressures involved.

Also im not sure how much your processing but you really don't need much solvent when the tube fully pressurizes.You could be be running a little to much butane.If you pack it tight enough and your tube is up to spec i find you can run as little as 1/3 or 1/4 a can for a quarter.1/2 can is the most you should need.Your yield should be higher if you pack it alot .Using an open tube at best you can hope for a 90% efficiency in optimal conditions.If you don't pack properly the butane is just passing by the material instead of saturating it and more than likely you will hit 60-80%.I have determined this by reprocessing material that has already been exposed to butane.When the tube fully pressurizes, you will generally only get back 50-100 mg if you run a quarter of reprocessed material packing it good the first time.If you don't pack it as tight as possible,but still pack some i find anywhere between 100-300 mg can come back on a second pass.You must take into account that what does come back is not as pure the second time,but that's still a considerable amount of stuff.If you push more butane through the first time to pick up that extra 20-30% because its not packed as tight/ground, you may very well be picking up some more wax's or chlorophyll's.This is the real reason your gear needs to be up to spec, allowing you to use the least amount of butane possible for a highly efficient extraction.
 
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ExtractionResearch,
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aesthyrian

Blaaaaah
I usually do nug runs and at most will break the nugs up by using my fingers so maybe that's why? Just to be clear, are you suggesting that I grind the nugs before I pack?

I can't tell from your photo the consistency of your grind, but maybe you have a photo to share?
 
aesthyrian,
I grind all my material using a regular grinder. Just don't leave any chunks.If you want you can pulverize it a lil bit more by grinding anything that's still not fine enough again. Make sure your not using some crappy grinder,i use a spacecase. Don't stuff the grinder all the way or it wont grind the herb as well.Ill put a photo of the consistency up in a few.
 
ExtractionResearch,
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eiluaP

Paulie
Can you elaborate more on your reasoning for packing the tube as tight as possible? I have yet to find a general consensus on that matter, and IME when I pack my tube too tightly I seem to pull more chlorophyll's and the oil is darker.

You seem to have more experience than myself so I am just asking for the sake of learning.

Running extractions on a daily basis myself, I've found packing to a medium density will lead to maximum efficiency and clarity. Pack your tube uniformly and firmly; but any crunching you hear when packing is the plant matter breaking = cell walls rupturing = easily accessed water soluble plant matter = likelihood of cloudy, green, or dark extracts.

I moderately pack for a first run, without grinding my material at any step. With nugs i won't break them down unless they are larger than a dime, but i generally work with dry sugar leaf trim, of which i am particularly careful not to over-pack. After all of the butane and condensation have evaporated from the extraction tube, i unpack, grind lightly, and save for a secondary extraction which i will generally winterize* to retain purity whilst squeezing the last of the actives out of the material. This can be packed much tighter, as it is no longer your goal to preserve the structure of the plant cell walls.
*Winterization is a process involving alcohol, used to precipitate out plant waxes, lipids, and other solutes, although this sacrifices terpenes, which reduces flavor.

Another big factor to take into account when looking at extractions is that 'most all canned butane distributors pack propane in as a propellant. Propane is more polar than butane, thus it will pull additional water out of your plant. Butane itself is relatively non polar, thus it is not responsible for picking up the undesirable plant solutes. The main suspect, as the team at Skunk Pharm Research puts it, is the water which our solvent picks up.

"One of our process limitations, is that though non polar, n-butane has slight water solubility. At 20C/68F, it is only 0.0325 percent by vol/vol, but not zero and is still enough to pickup undesirable water solubles. 1 liter, or 1000 ml X 0.0325 = 32.5 ml of water.

With water, comes water solubles, which includes chlorophyll and plant alkaloids, that detract from the taste, so the dance is to maintain the volatile terpenes, while studiously avoiding the water solubles."

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I've found each of these additional steps have helped to consistently yield pure, clear extractions.
  • Pack your extraction tube, seal it in something airtight, and freeze it overnight. Do not freeze your plant matter prior to packing your extraction tube unless you want your material broken up further. This would increase your yield, but decrease purity. Freezing your plant matter will crystallize the H2O content left in the plant, making the water much more difficult to pull into your extraction. Maintaining low temperatures insures that you will lock out the majority of the moisture content in the material. This is one area in which supercritical CO2 extraction excels; not only are these extractions at extreme pressures, but they are at extremely low temperatures, leading to the clarity that supercritical extracts are known for. I believe it is said best by Skunk Pharm Research:

    "Freezing the material prior to an extraction, may be holding both the chlorophyll and the water soluble chlorophyl-binding protein (WSCP)* locked up in ice, so that neither the water present or the solvent can reach the chlorophyll."

    "Freezing the water is one method that works well, but it is important that the material be dry when it was frozen and that it is not exposed to high humidity while frozen, or ice will form over the trichomes, preventing their extraction.

    Another method is to simply remove most of the water
    [with dry heat]. This will produce pristine extractions, but doesn’t preserve the terpenes. If the material is to be decarboxylated anyway, that is of little concern, because we will lose them anyway."

    * WSCP is the cement that encases and holds chlorophyll in its place. WSCP is soluble in water, and mostly insoluble in polar alkane alcohols and non polar alkanes. More information on chlorophyll and WSCP can be found here.​
  • Freeze your butane cans an hour or so before using them; this will make the butane a more stable liquid and you will lose less of it as gas during your extraction. It will also help to chill your plant matter, further locking moisture content [water = chlorophyll in your extraction.] Optimally you would keep your butane cans in the freezer at all times.
  • Hold your frozen butane can upright, and 'burp' the can by opening the nozzle and listening until there is a noticeable decrease in the pressure coming out of the can. This should take between 1 and 3 seconds, and will indicate that you have expelled almost all traces of propane from your can, leaving your solvent more pure butane, and less likely to pick up water in your extraction.
I recommend 90-110F the entire purge and i suggest you check your water with a thermometer.
This is spot on, i don't recommend purging above 125° Fahrenheit, when aiming to best preserve the flavor and color of your product. I purge by floating my Pyrex in a larger dish of warm water in this temperature range, removing the collection dish and reheating the dish of water in the microwave when necessary, combined with dry heat from a hairdryer on a lower temperature setting to clear up the minute amounts of remaining butane. The blow dryer can be used on a high setting to complete a purge a product in less than twenty minutes, but this sacrifice some terpenes and actives, to decarboxylation.

I hope these added steps may help some of you to routinely yield pristine, clear extract. This is a collection of measures i've found to increase the quality, consistency, and taste of my product. :2c: Notice that at no point do i find it helpful or necessary to whip or agitate the product. Agitation may look as though it speeds up the purging process, but in fact it traps solvent in your extraction. I blast onto and purge completely in my Pyrex dish, as the thinnest possible film leads to greatest surface area, meaning quicker, more efficient, and safer purging. I purge without touching until the material is in its finished state, when collected on a razor it is always a clear extract which is solid at room temperature.

I owe much of my knowledge to the many informative pages created by the incredible Skunk Pharm Research team, their article for butane essential oil extraction can be found here, and if you are interested in winterizing your concentrate, here is their repository for information on polishing your extracts. Thanks for taking the time to read through the post, and best of luck to you all with your extraction endeavors :cheers: Remember, it is always an experiment and there is always room for improvement, I'd love to hear any additional advice you all have to share.

TL;DR - for maximum clarity
  • Refrain from grinding on the first run or packing too firmly.
  • Freeze your plant matter.
  • Freeze your butane. Burp out the propane.
  • Do not whip or agitate at any point before you've removed all butane. If you wish to alter the consistency of the product, whip it after your product is entirely purged of your solvent.
 
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TL;DR - for maximum clarity
  • Refrain from grinding on the first run or packing too firmly.
  • Freeze your plant matter.
  • Freeze your butane. Burp out the propane.
  • Do not whip or agitate at any point before you've removed all butane. If you wish to alter the consistency of the product, whip it after your product is entirely purged of your solvent.
I do not freeze my butane. I have experimented with using both frozen solvent and frozen tube, and i find in all cases flavor is greatly diminished if you freeze either, but i find it more noticeable when freezing the butane. As a community we in general seem to agree that water/moisture finding its way into your process is bad, and could decrease the quality of your end product.I have found through trail and error that the more water/moisture your stuff is exposed to, the less flavor your oil will have.This seems to be caused by the water either carrying with it or promoting the release of terpens while it evaporates. For instance, if you take a dish of some moist oil and leave it in a jar to cure,you will notice it will produce a much stronger smell as the water evaporates, and it will not be very flavorful thereafter.In general, for MOST people, myself included, freezing the butane or tube, but more so the butane, appears to add significant amounts of moisture to the process.Everyone seems to agree that having water in your product is not ideal.For this reason i advise you do not freeze your butane.
 
ExtractionResearch,
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eiluaP

Paulie
I do not freeze my butane. I have experimented with using both frozen solvent and frozen tube, and i find in all cases flavor is greatly diminished if you freeze either, but i find it more noticeable when freezing the butane. As a community we in general seem to agree that water/moisture finding its way into your process is bad, and could decrease the quality of your end product.I have found through trail and error that the more water/moisture your stuff is exposed to, the less flavor your oil will have.This seems to be caused by the water either carrying with it or promoting the release of terpens while it evaporates. For instance, if you take a dish of some moist oil and leave it in a jar to cure,you will notice it will produce a much stronger smell as the water evaporates, and it will not be very flavorful thereafter.In general, for MOST people, myself included, freezing the butane or tube, but more so the butane, appears to add significant amounts of moisture to the process.Everyone seems to agree that having water in your product is not ideal.For this reason i advise you do not freeze your butane.

I would certainly agree it is a delicate step, particularly if freezing material in your extraction tube it is easy for lots of water to condense on the plant matter and inner wall of the extraction tube. If you were to freeze your material i would suggest to be extremely careful to be sure that it is sealed in a completely air-tight environment; i often seal with several layers of plastic wrap and then seal inside a freezer bag. At any rate, this is a supplementary step that is often entirely unnecessary and is most often employed with fresh plant matter, which is actually considered by many to be the most flavorful of extractions. It is touched upon by Skunk Pharm in their article on BHO:

"The absolutely most flavorful BHO extract to me personally and to the test panels thus far, is fresh picked buds, that are immediately frozen to tie up the water, and extracted while still frozen. It produces an oil that abounds in whimsical flavors darting about and the word most often used to describe it by panel members, was the word “fresh.”

Next most flavorful, from a BHO standpoint, is material that has only been cured 5 to 7 days, and is at the small stem snap stage, where you might jar it if you were curing it to smoke."
I, personally haven't yet extracted fresh frozen material; although i'm hoping to have an opportunity to, this harvest season.

I will agree though, moisture will only serve to degrade your product, and some of the processes i mentioned can increase your potential to draw moisture of the atmosphere. I recommend freezing only if you have material that is noticeably fresh and moist, it is generally an inessential step. As far as frozen solvent is concerned, I am certainly intrigued. I wonder if perhaps the temperature is altering the solvent's ability to pick up terpenes into solution. Any how, best of luck and enjoy your extracts :tup: Always good to hear of others' experiments :D
 
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