Dynavap VapCap

cybrguy

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Parentalcontrol2 said:
So i assume its a bad idea for the magnet if you heat the vapcap, take a hit, and put it on the magnet?
Click to expand...
No no no, that's fine and great for cooling the cap. You need MUCH more heat before you can hurt the magnet. The cap is thin and cools quickly. The only likely problem is if you get the cap too hot (hotter than you want it) it doesn't stick as well to the magnet.
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
mandelbrod said:
tumblr_mlfzukpmLf1qjqzoeo4_250.gif
Click to expand...
Yes,last but not least ,a Mithril body!
It suits perfectly the awesome Kryptonite mp !
 
natural farmer

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
PeteSeattle said:
Anyone catch the half page ad for VC in Dope Magazine? This is from the Seattle publication. Moving on up!

IMG_0506.jpg
Click to expand...

I wonder why they used the old Omni pics...

cybrguy said:
Yes, THIS, and THAT...

This brings up an interesting point, other than the warning about overheating caps and any possible damage that may do.
One time when I wasn't paying attention due to buzz or talking or watching or whatever, and I didn't hear or at least notice a click and went way past it. I realized it and even saw wisps of SMOKE coming off the cap. OOPS. So I wanted that cap off IMMEDIATELY, but I found that the magnet was getting little love from the cap and couldn't pull it off.
Needless to say the load was lost :cry: but I learned something new. I had known that heating a magnet enough significantly reduces it magnetism (at least temporarily), but I DIDN'T know that using a cool magnet on a very hot piece of metal also reduces said "stickiness" to the point it was truly ineffective. Amazing. :sherlock:

Has anyone else seen this?
Click to expand...

stardustsailor said:
http://www.first4magnets.com/tech-c...does-temperature-affect-neodymium-magnets-i91

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/blog.asp?p=temperature-and-neodymium-magnets

https://www.supermagnete.de/eng/faq/What-temperatures-can-magnets-sustain

http://www.duramag.com/techtalk/cas...agnets-reversible-vs-irreversible-field-loss/

http://www.duramag.com/neodymium-magnets-ndfeb/temperature-effects-on-neodymium-magnets/

http://www.duramag.com/techtalk/tec...ower-and-how-to-use-temperature-coefficients/
Click to expand...

I didn't know about the weakening of magnetism with temp rise but are we sure this is it? I can raise the Dynastash off a surface hanging by the magnetically attached Vapcap either hot or not... I always thought I couldn't remove the cap from the tip while still hot cause of the heat expansion of the tip. When it starts to cool down it comes off. I have pressed the cap just enough between the fingers so it doesn't pop upwards a little when the click happens (you have noticed this, right?)! If I round it off again to be super easy to remove, the magnet does the job just fine, either hot or not, but it pops up so much that unless I push it back in the hit is very airy! So I press it just enough so it's easy to remove when a little colder but doesn't pop up.
 
B

blablablabla

Member
This was maybe already answered but, the Orings, they are probably silicone or rubber, is there any possibility that some of that plastic would evaporate and you would breath it? Im speaking about the M and mainly Im asking because steel gets hot.
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
blablablabla said:
This was maybe already answered but, the Orings, they are probably silicone or rubber, is there any possibility that some of that plastic would evaporate and you would breath it? Im speaking about the M and mainly Im asking because steel gets hot.
Click to expand...
Polymers do not evaporate.
What does evaporate from some polymers are certain volatile organic compounds known as
plasticizers ("new car" odor ).
But in case of high temperature resistant elastic polymers like Viton ,FKM or silicone ,
there's no such issue,simply because they are not used any plasticizers.
Even if that was the case ,≥99.9% of any VOCs would evaporate during the initial
dry burns of the vape.


[0076] The O-ring 126 thickness may be suitably sized to resist the unintended disassembly of the vaporizer 130 yet allow for easy intentional disassembly of the vaporizer 130. Suitable examples of friction fit O-rings 126 include 6mm I.D x 1mm cross-section O-rings, yet any suitable combination of sizes may be used provided the O- ring provides the required interference fit necessary for the retention of the components. The O-rings 126 may be comprised of any suitable material, one example of which is silicone. Other suitable materials may include Teflon™, Viton™, or any other material which allows for maximum temperature of over 400 degrees F
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/WO2017011698A1.html
 
Last edited:
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Squiby said:
Not likely since the orings are not in the vapor path.
Click to expand...
I'm afraid that any possible outgassing of the o-rings (both the tip and condenser ones) could be in the air and/or vapor
path.
But anyway this is not a real case with the original o-rings.
If third-party replacements are used and they are not the proper ones for high temperature applications ,
then possible outgassing of VOCs ,will be inhaled.

-Tip o-rings are all inside the stem/body,except a single one that rests between tip and body/stem .
-Condenser o-rings are already inside the body/stem.
-With the carb closed,vacuum (negative pressure) inside the body/stem is high enough to mix
any possible polymer outgassing with the vapor.
-With the carb open ,the incoming cool air stream will mix again any possible VOCs with
the vapor.
 
Last edited:
cow-a-bunga

cow-a-bunga

Well-Known Member
tragique said:
Speaking of new Omnis, does anyone have side-by-side pictures of older models next to the most current one?
Click to expand...

I too would be interested in this. I found two images on google, and I can see minor differences, I think:sherlock:. Are the ones pictured below two different models?

Omni2.png


I ordered a Ti Omnivap a few days ago at the 4/20 sale without having read much about it. I know FC likes Dynavap, so I plunged in. The free shipping sealed the deal. I've also watched Sneaky Petes review after ordering.
 
Last edited:
exime

exime

Well-Known Member
cow-a-bunga said:
I too would be interested in this. I found two images on google, and I can see minor differences, I think:sherlock:. Are the ones pictured below two different models?

Omni2.png


I ordered a Ti Omnivap a few days ago at the 4/20 sale without having read much about it. I know FC likes Dynavap, so I plunged in. The free shipping sealed the deal. I've also watched Sneaky Petes review after ordering.
Click to expand...

Both omnivap titanium. Left is old model and right is most recent updated model. They are constantly tweaking and tightening tolerances but it's ultimately the same thing.
 
J

jds

Well-Known Member
cow-a-bunga said:
I too would be interested in this. I found two images on google, and I can see minor differences, I think:sherlock:. Are the ones pictured below two different models?

Omni2.png


I ordered a Ti Omnivap a few days ago at the 4/20 sale without having read much about it. I know FC likes Dynavap, so I plunged in. The free shipping sealed the deal. I've also watched Sneaky Petes review after ordering.
Click to expand...

Yep, those are definitely it. I myself slightly prefer the new model to the old one, but they do look pretty similar at first glance.
 
Winegums

Winegums

I make things from wood
Accessory Maker
stardustsailor said:
Oh ,is that so?
:sherlock:

Should consider machining some ultra-special metal bodies/stems ?

Say something like a Damascus steel body /stem !
https://gr.pinterest.com/explore/damascus-steel/

Or even more to the extreme :a mokume-gane body/stem ,
made out of noble metals like Gold,Sterling Silver,Platinum,Rhodium,Niobium,etc.


Now,that would 've been something really special ( and quite rare ) !
Click to expand...
Pattern welding is out of my range of skills, I mostly work with O1 tool steel for my blades. Also I have a tiny Lathe that doesn't deal with metal so well. I love the look of Pattern welding but it's a pain in the butt and no one is going to pay $250 for a stem.
 
Squiby

Squiby

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
Tip o-rings are all inside the stem/body,except a single one that rests between tip and body/stem .
-Condenser o-rings are already inside the body/stem.
-With the carb closed,vacuum (negative pressure) inside the body/stem is high enough to mix
any possible polymer outgassing with the vapor.
-With the carb open ,the incoming cool air stream will mix again any possible VOCs with
the vapor.
Click to expand...

None of the orings are exposed to vapor or in the airpath. I have zero worries about off gassing from a Vapcap.

The high temp orings on the tip are seated on the outside and around the neck. The condenser fits up inside the tip neck. The tip fits over the condenser and against the body wall and the base of the tip flares out around the last oring, so these outings are not in the vapor path. The tip fins also serve to remove heat quickly.

The condenser orings sit above the airflow, upstream from the airpath, at the cool end of the Vapcap. As well, the air coming into the carb is cool fresh air.

If the vapor was in contact anywhere inside of the body or stem, it would collect resin and need to be cleaned. This is not the case. Only the condenser, herb chamber and CCD screen collect resin. In fact you never have to remove the orings to clean your Vapcap as these areas just don't get dirty. The body or stem never requires cleaning beyond an occasional rub with a hemp oil and beeswax or any other wood conditioner, as you would treat any wood product.

stardustsailor said:
If third-party replacements are used and they are not the proper ones for high temperature applications ,
then possible outgassing of VOCs ,will be inhaled.
Click to expand...
T I suppose this could be remotely possible if someone, as you say replaces high temp orings with a product that is not meant for this application.

But, happily these parts are readily available from Dynavap and they last a long time. In one year, I've had to replace one oring. I broke it. It was my fault. I won't do what I did to break it again and I don't foresee having to replace another for a long long time.
 
Vapor_Eyes

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
tragique said:
Speaking of new Omnis, does anyone have side-by-side pictures of older models next to the most current one?
Click to expand...

Here's a detailed look at the condenser itself. The bodies have had several revisions but the condenser has had only two versions that I'm aware of:

TheVaporist said:
Before my battery went off I took this, a little comparison between the old and the new Omni condenser / mouthpiece assembly :
IMG_5756.jpg


The overall length of the new system is 1mm more than the older one (seems more in the picture, perspective deformation)

The threading is different: an older mouthpiece can't match a newer condenser (the contrary is also true).
The threading is shorter on the newer condenser but lead to same amplitude.

The grooves where the orings sits are deeper and the mouthpiece sits more tightly in the body than the older one.

The new mouthpiece is wider than the older one (a few microns more, causing the tighter fit).

I think that's all, I hope that it'll be useful for someone!
Now let's get back to work :science:
Click to expand...
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Squiby said:
None of the orings are exposed to vapor or in the airpath. I have zero worries about off gassing from a Vapcap.

The high temp orings on the tip are seated on the outside and around the neck. The condenser fits up inside the tip neck. The tip fits over the condenser and against the body wall and the base of the tip flares out around the last oring, so these outings are not in the vapor path. The tip fins also serve to remove heat quickly

The condenser orings sit above the airflow, upstream from the airpath, at the cool end of the Vapcap. As well, the air coming into the carb is cool fresh air.

If the vapor was in contact anywhere inside of the body or stem, it would collect resin and need to be cleaned. This is not the case. Only the condenser, herb chamber and CCD screen collect resin. In fact you never have to remove the orings to clean your Vapcap as these areas just don't get dirty. The body or stem never requires cleaning beyond an occasional rub with a hemp oil and beeswax or any other wood conditioner, as you would treat any wood product.

T I suppose this could be remotely possible if someone, as you say replaces high temp orings with a product that is not meant for this application.

But, happily these parts are readily available from Dynavap and they last a long time. In one year, I've had to replace one oring. I broke it. It was my fault. I won't do what I did to break it again and I don't foresee having to replace another for a long long time.
Click to expand...

I've managed to make the condenser at the mp end quite hot by consecutive hard tokes
with the carb closed,thus any wrong o-ring attached to the condenser might
be outgassing,as it will be conducting heat from the condenser.

The tip flaring after the o-ring by no means can be considered as a seal.
Tip's fins do provide cooling ,still they have also a certain heat exchange and storing capacity.
Their "limits" can be easily reached and surpassed under prolonged use of the vape ,with consecutive sessions.
So,outgassing from those o-rings is actually quite possible,if unsuitable o-rings are installed.

Sure resin is gathered at the vapor path ,where the vapor cools and becomes liquid .
Still I did mentioned "mixing with vapor" due to vacuum and/or high air flow.
And not that vapor is changing path or reaching the o-rings.
Once the air inside the stem/body mixes with the vapor(as it really does,with or w/o the carb hole closed),
then any possible VOCs from wrong materials inside the body/stem can and will mix along.
:)

BTW,how exactly you broke the o-ring?
While trying to take it out ?
There's a certain way on how to unmount those o-rings safely.
 
Last edited:
hinglemccringleberry

hinglemccringleberry

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
I,ve managed to make the condenser at the mp end quite hot by consecutive tokes
with the carb closed.That means that any wrong o-ring attached to the condenser might
be outgassing.

The tip flaring after the o-ring by far can not be assumed as a seal.
Tip's fins do provide cooling ,still they have also a certain heat exchange and storing capacity.
Their "limits" can be easily reached under prolonged use of the vape ,with consecutive sessions.
So,outgassing is possible.

Sure resin is gathered at the vapor path ,where the vapor cools and becomes liquid .
Still I did mentioned "mixing with vapor" due to vacuum and/or high air flow.
And not that vapor is changing path or reaching the o-rings.

BTW,how exactly you broke the o-ring?
Click to expand...
With my Ti Woody I've noticed that it is possible to create alot of heat under the right circumstances and I can feel it on my lips believe it or not. It happens sometimes when plugging the carb hole for the entire hit and drawing hard, with no downtime between heating cycles, on a partially filled chamber. I think what you're saying is the heat created by these circumstances originates inside the vapor path, but will conduct to the outside of the condenser tube where it contacts the O-ring, theoretically cooking it and causing it to offgas, which would then travel back to the condenser input and into your mouth, right? And same deal with the O-rings on the tip?
I would like to think that the hi-temp rings Dynavap uses are rated high enough to withstand that heat, but also I was going to say that this is not a regular occurrence for me. It only happens when I'm trying too hard to milk it and it really only happens with whole nugs or large pieces of herb w/ some empty space in the chamber.
This is one of the reasons I prefer to use a medium to fine grind, thoroughly dried, tamped down, chamber 100% full. It makes vapor production more effortless than with whole nugs and I don't heat up the entire unit nearly as much, nowhere near the point where I feel it on my lips... if you grind fine and pack tight, vapor is created without excessive heating, and the cloud hits my throat like a wall before the unit has a chance to heat up to those supposedly unsafe levels.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom