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Dynavap VapCap

Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by Fenton Mewley, Jul 21, 2015.

  1. Squiby

    Squiby Well-Known Member

    You said it. The Omnivap is largely titanium and titanium costs more. Maybe it's harder to work with. Then there's the adjustable airflow and the ti tip.....

    But, what you didn't say is that the Omnivap is a very finely crafted, precision milled, engineering beauty that has to be experienced to be fully appreciated. In comparison, the M is much more rudimentary in design.

    The SS Tip of the M has a more simple design with its thicker and fewer fins. The neck of the tip uses one less oring than the Ti tip. The convection ratio is higher with the Ti tip vesus the M tip.

    The integrated SS stem/mp while attractive and durable cannot compete with the titanium body and the sexy titanium mouthpiece. And then that mp threads onto the condenser like butter and because the condenser/mp are precision fit to fill and sit tight within the body, the Omni has a strength and integrity to it that tells you it will last a lifetime. Maybe two.

    The Omnivap should passed down to the next generation when the time comes. It's a piece of functional art. A device meant to be used and admired for what it is.

    The M is wonderful vaporizer as is every Vapcap in the line up. The Omni is just the top of the line.
  2. FreddieFresh

    FreddieFresh Well-Known Member

    Since were throwing out ideas, I kinda want a Vape Cape :brow:
  3. stardustsailor

    stardustsailor Well-Known Member Accessory Maker

    Personally,I wouldn't say no to a cap that clicks at a lower temperature than the standard one.
    I think the standard one clicks at ~400°F ( 204,4°C ) -although I 've to test it further -.
    A cap that clicks around 374°F (190°C) sounds very... tasty !

    Just saying ...
    tragique, Xelatsok and voodoo_vape like this.
  4. PeteSeattle

    PeteSeattle Well-Known Member Accessory Maker

    Hi friends, I hope you all had a great 420. I certainly did ... working with glass.

    As well as enjoying a Ti Omni break (chocolope)

    I'm still practicing a gong (not wasting color until mastered). I've got a gong former/mold but it is takes a lot of practice vs the preformed ones by machine). Plus I tried a church warden-esque stem.



    Shorter gong with mouth piece

    The church warden (flat mouth piece)

    Thanks for looking.
    And I hope everyone receives their green/purple packages soon!
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2017
  5. voodoo_vape

    voodoo_vape Vapour RebeL

    Athens, GR
    The NonaVong is absolutely madness with any glass tool... Amazing clouds, amazing flavour!!
    I've been having the same dilemma with the Nona stem. Should I leave it just like that or should I make an XLS NonaVong with an exotic MP? After asking around and seeing some dimensions and so, it seems that it's good to go with any glass fitting. The MP itself is 10mm one and it doesn't go more that a could cm longer than the stem itself. All bongs, bubblers etc have some significant space in their holes so everything should just be fine.
    The reason that I wanted the xls made was mainly due to the fact that I think I'm missing on some flavour after a while with just the NonaVong through mouth directly. Plus the MP feels better.

    I forgot to mention my experience with the Nonavong-M :p I had with some fine charas and oil that we had with my friend. I placed some hemp on the bottom and booooom...... flavour, taste, buzz.... unbelievably nice and well toasted and I don't what else to say... the M-Tip itself stayed clean and then I continued vaping the hemp itself and kept on giving me tasty clouds for some time after everything seemed evaporated in there... Finally, a vape that you can easily and carelessly vape your chocolate stuff... :haw::wave:
  6. Carlos8400

    Carlos8400 Well-Known Member

    I have been using my M for a couple days and i like it.
    My only negative comment is the airflow is ridiculous, there is none, it feels like trying to suck a golf ball through a garden hose. I actually prefer the airflow from my Vapman.
    Everyting else is great, loading, handling, clicking cap, but damn that airflow!
    Hogni, grokit, Derrrpp and 5 others like this.
  7. BaroneBarra

    BaroneBarra Well-Known Member

    I had the same experience (used it for the first time last night for 6 or 7 sessions) but since this is only my second vape, I blamed my incompetence.

    Basically what I found is that if I leave the carb completely open, the hit is smooth and I have no problem inhaling...which sounds logical. But doing this, I don't really get a lot of vapour production and as such I feel like I'm not "doing it right".
    On the contrary, if I put my finger on the carb completely blocking it, the hit is so much satisfying, hotter, cough-inducing, with definitely more vapour...but it's super hard to do it, I really need to put some lung power in it. The golf ball and hose metaphor definitely fits.

    Also, another thing I found is that my sessions only last for a single draw, and I use a single torch lighter that - if I understand correctly - should make the cap retain heat better. Like I heat it, in about 15/20 seconds the cap clicks, I take a slow draw and when I'm exhaling usually it's already clicking another time, meaning it's cooled down.

    I put only a couple little nugs in there, so maybe I need to pack it more? Also, my weed is pretty old and dry, hopefully I'll have some better quality one to try my M with.

    I will of course keep trying to improve my technique, but if you have any advice please do share!

    Last edited: Apr 21, 2017
    grokit, Derrrpp, Vapor_Eyes and 5 others like this.
  8. Carlos8400

    Carlos8400 Well-Known Member

    Same here, it's super open when uncarbed, or completely blocked when carbed.
    I have found that by roling the vape side to side in between my fingers ever so slightly i can open the carb very little and control fresh air intake, but i wish it had more flow with the carb plugged.
    It definitely works, but it's not super enjoyable.
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2017
  9. DirtyD

    DirtyD Well-Known Member

    Southeast us
    Any M owners try to file down grooves in the SS tip? To possibly make it look more like the ti tip and thus improve air flow???? Thinking about it.....
    Sketch420, grokit, Derrrpp and 4 others like this.
  10. stardustsailor

    stardustsailor Well-Known Member Accessory Maker


    The Vap Caps produce lots of vapour with the carb fully closed.
    But you have to adapt your inhaling technique to that.
    If you try to inhale directly to lungs with the carb hole fully closed ,
    probably you're going to be disappointed .

    With the carb hole fully closed ,you should exercise "mouth to lung" draws /hits.
    Try to suck hard using your mouth & cheeks to create a strong vacuum .
    Do that for two-three hits.
    Towards the end of each draw/hit release your finger from the carb hole and
    send the vapours down in your lungs.

    Each "click to click " mini-session should allow for 5 -6 such draws /hits.


    Already done it .
    It improves air flow ,but only just a bit.
    Not much of a difference.

    Edit:Made consecutive posts.:doh:
    Maybe a mod can merge them into a single one.
    Sorry and thanx.
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 21, 2017
  11. DirtyD

    DirtyD Well-Known Member

    Southeast us
    Thanks. Maybe I'll just let it be. Maybe.....!
    SSVUN~YAH and CuckFumbustion like this.
  12. DrHermman

    DrHermman Well-Known Member

    Southern Spain
    Hello everyone!!

    Been out of FC for a while, and came back just on time to find the new M release and the 420 sale...
    So just couldn't resist and picked a new cap, ti-tip (mine is 2nd generation and really want to try the new one!!), an XL Bocote Dynastash... and 3 M's for friends :nod::rockon:
    Yesterday I received the shipping e-mail! So hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll have the sweet green package in Spain :brow::D

    About the airflow... This has already been addressed along the thread, but I find this pic helpful to explain what I do...


    As you can see, I put the x-ring just closing a bit the carb hole, and this way I get satisfying clouds with an OK air-flow and zero technique (which is good when handing it to non experienced users...)
    Hope it works for you new guys with your M's :tup:

    Once I get my goodies I'll be posting again with my friends experiences, hope to convert'em all!! :cool:

    Sketch420, stressed, grokit and 10 others like this.
  13. CuckFumbustion

    CuckFumbustion Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.

    Cuckfumbustion Central
    Still a vapcap newb. But I can see the engineering design behind both and there is enough of a dif that there is one distinctive pro/con. The 'M' has no moving parts. Omni you can adjust. to oversimplify.

    I'm not sure how I'm supposed to be using the carb. Do I keep it covered when I heat my cap? Do I keep it covered at the beginning then allow for the click then release the carb. I don't feel like I'm getting the knack.

    I know that if I allow any flame to slip between the cap and the materials means combustion.:cuss: Pass it on.

    My 3 flame torch is empty already from all the testing.:lol: I also want to get skilled with an ordinary lighter in a pinch. :nod: Starting to see why some might prefer a slower lighter perhaps. Any insight and advanced method or understanding would be helpful and would speed up my learning curve and I can pass that on to save on butane for all Vap newbs like me. I don't feel like I'm getting the best results with what I'm working with. So anyone want to walk us through their technique? :) I need to get to the intermediate level if I can be of help.

    Any geeks want to geekspeak about the engineering and how it is meant to work on the science level of things? :science: Am I supposed to try to get the tip to absorb some heat or should the cap get nearly all the heat? Or some other ideal ratio?
    Am I purposely trying to heat the airspace between the condenser and the outer wall. And how should I effectively use the carb. Feel clueless as to best method and I don't feel like wasting the fuel from another lighter right away. :bang: Oh I did lower the fuel intake, etc. TX. :peace:

    Edit - just caught @stardustsailor 's post a sec ago. :tup:
  14. SloJimFizz

    SloJimFizz Unknown Member

    Joe's Garage Jamming
    We are all our own detectives.:sherlock:
    I scorched the shit out of my first couple loads, Heating it too deep in the blue. Find your happy medium between too close and man this it taking too long.
    I have the three flame torch as well,but I dont hold it where all three flames are heating the cap at once.
    More like Little Nicky going through the gates of hell with the center doing the bulk and the two others just hitting the sides.
    Holding it closer to the base takes longer to heat to click for denser cloud action,closer to the tip brings the click sooner with less density.
    Carb and release as you toke, feels like sucking a Wendys Frosty through a Straw, but shits happening as you do it.
    As far as geekspeak, theres videos of the head honcho doing that.
  15. BaroneBarra

    BaroneBarra Well-Known Member

    Cheers man, I will try that tonight. It's confusing because, coming from smoking (both blunts and cigarettes) I had to learn how to inhale directly into lungs when I got my Alternate, because at the beginning I was doing "mouth to lung" without results. With the M it's the other way around!
    Excited to put my new knowledge at test :D

    Cool, I will try that as well. I haven't disassembled the M yet, since I was a bit afraid of fucking things up. But this looks like a good way to automatically restrict the airflow a bit; and since I want to use it with my smokers friends to try and convert them it definitely seems like a good idea.
  16. GreenHopper

    GreenHopper 20 going on 60

    Hi Guys,

    One option for managing the carb on a non-Omni device is to take a bit of rolling paper (a small square tab from the gum section) and place it over the carb hole.

    You can then take a needle and pierce a small hole in the paper to allow a smaller amount of air in through the carb hole. The bigger the hole in the paper the more air is in the mixture resulting in a lower draw resistance.

    Obviously this is a work around and is less adjustable than playing with the O-Ring placement but it is easy to apply/remove so works well when trying to figure out your prefered air to vapor mixture.

    Summer, Hogni, Kermitt and 13 others like this.
  17. Mustang_52

    Mustang_52 Active Member

    will a titanium tip work on the M? and will it improve the M by doing this?
  18. TheVaporist

    TheVaporist Man is a universe within himself

    Pale Blue Dot
    Somebody knows if the search button is dead these days?
  19. mucsusn

    mucsusn 60 going on 20

    DC Metro
    Amazing how different techniques are applied to these little beasts......with my VC's, I do deep click to click lung pulls, feathering the carb for temp and flow, but mostly closed.....as far as torches go, I splurged on a nice two flame Lotus that points the two flames together. Sort of like a hotter single. On my two Omni's, I keep the condenser dialed out as much as possible, but still use the carb. On my new M, I tried the suggestion from a few pages back where I set the condenser in from the mouthpiece about 1/8", makes it behave a bit closer to the Omni's. Worth a try by M users to see if it complements your style of use.

    Edit - And I always forget to talk about grind and moisture......I think that these two things make a huge difference in performance across the range of techniques. Our great friend @Squiby, and some others, are fans of the "Nug pinch" method. For me, I started out early with C-Vaults and Boveda packs, so my weekly prep grind is VERY consistent (given that an Oz. can last me 4 months on average, as opposed to an Oz. a month when I was combusting). I create my weekly stash by grinding 2g in a large Santa Cruz 4pc, grinding upright for the maximum grind size. That leaves me with what I consider a medium/coarse grind. I store that in a 50ml Miron Vitality Glass wide mouth container. My EDC for the ground flower is a doob tube, which can easily hold 4 days of use. So from day to day and week to week, I've created a routine that gives me very consistent material for my vapes. An added bonus is that my chosen grind works well in every device on my list (as I don't own any of the pure conduction vapes which like a finer grind), which makes the overall ritual that much more satisfying . Life is good........
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2017
  20. tragique

    tragique Well-Known Member

    Does anyone know what kind of temperature the various parts of a vapcap reach?

    Mainly the cap itself, the tip (both ti and SS) and the inside of the chamber.
    SSVUN~YAH likes this.
  21. GreenHopper

    GreenHopper 20 going on 60

    Hello bud,


    So the flame placement is the difference between a quick click and a slow click.

    The clicker is in the end of the cap so the further back along the cap the flame goes the longer it takes for the heat to travel to the clicker, thus a slower click.

    The longer it takes to get to the click the more heat is being transferred to the cap, and thus the tip by heat transference.

    I try to keep the inner darker part of the flame licking the cap, sorry the drawing is a little crude but in real life the weaker part of the flame isn't quite as large as what I've depicted but it gives you an idea.

    A dual flame lighter will transfer heat quicker to the cap as well as heating up a wider section of the cap. This means more heat in less time and a quicker time to click.

    Can't comment on triple flame as I don't use one. Although one can assume another jet flame would equal more heat and depending if it's inline or in a triangular format possibly offers a wider heating profile over more surface area of the cap. Again quicker time to click and more heat transferred to the cap/tip in less time.

    The more heat that gets into the Cap and (thus the Tip) the higher the higher the heat being passed on to the material. The higher heat releases actives that boil off at the higher heat range just like any other vape.

    You do not need to cover the carb when heating the cap.

    The carb only comes into play when air is being drawn through the Tip.

    When drawing on the VapCap you are pulling air in through the tip as well as through the carb hole.

    If you want greater density of Vapor you can close off the carb hole so that you are mixing less cool air with the hot vapor.


    The small blue-to-red arrows indicate air heated up by the Tip and the Cap which apply the convection style heat to the material.

    The large orange arrows indicate conductive heat that is applied to the material.
    vapen00b, Kermitt, antmuzic and 34 others like this.
  22. Winegums

    Winegums I make things from wood Accessory Maker

    The Fraser Valley
    It depends where you heat the cap, and since you can combust you're looking at anything from 70F-500F. The cap gets the hottest during use as it's what takes the heat input and transfers it to the tip, (conduction-radiated heat). I've gotten my cap glowing orange when it's in the flame but never combusted. The tip doesn't get nearly as hot

    If you're wanting to know for the purposes of vapourization and cannabinoid targeting. The range of effects falls somewhere in the 400-420*F area when you're riding the edge of combustion. If you heat it near the tip of the cap you're going to get a much lower temp extraction in the 355-375*F range.

    I'm sorry I can't give you specific temperatures, it's the nature of the vape.

    This was my thought too. Maybe George has already been doing this and we can get some findings from him?
  23. stardustsailor

    stardustsailor Well-Known Member Accessory Maker

    Someone,in order to measure the temp of the chamber , would need a K type thermocouple
    Inserted via the mp throughout the condenser to tip .
    CCD has to be removed or the center hole of it to be enlarged so that the thermocouple
    wire can fit through .Then a high accuracy K type thermocouple HID has to be used.

    I plan on doing it ,as I have all the equipment needed.
    But not until next weekend .
  24. Dynalowrider

    Dynalowrider Well-Known Member

    Deep in the heart
    Ok, people are asking why the Omni is more expensive than others, just read back through the last few pages. All the discussion about the carb, airport, whatever you want to call it.
    Well the answer to all that is the Omni. There is a sweet spot that is just right for your taste. I adjust my Omni for use with glass, close it almost shut with a little carb-air mixed in. I adjust it for use with a little more carb-air for native vaping.
    As to that I think the Omni is the most versatile, economical, satisfying, vape out there. The Omni is made for micro dosing. To quote Ron Popiel, "Just set it, and forget it."

    If all the nubees would just RTF Thread all the mystery and confusion would be removed. Then you would know what the rest of us know. This is one awesome vape system. Good on you George.
    Doc said that.
  25. exime

    exime Well-Known Member

    @CuckFumbustion To use my "M" I use a 3 flame vertigo torch and hold the flame far away enough so that you're heating where the three flames turn into 1 light blue flame. It will seem far away at first but it's still a massive amount of heat. You will need dark lighting to be able to see this part of the flame which will be invisible in sunlight but once you memorize where it is you can do it even in bright lighting. I try to heat all around the side of the cap make sure not keeping it in one place. I used a 2 flame torch and didnt like it as much.

    The first click won't give you a lot of vapor. Then as it warms up your 2nd, and 3rd click should yield a lot of vapor if you're doing it right. I just feather the carb or cover it about 3/4 full or 1/2 full. If I'm not holding it at 3/4 or 1/2 full then I will take my finger off completely then fully close carb and repeat really fast (feathering).

    Towards the end of the session I go about a second past the click. I found some of my strains will give a massive cloud at the end of a session if I do this. It will taste a touch popcorny but not bad. I assume this is about 430 degrees if you go a second or so past the click. The problem with this technique is if you're not careful you will combust but it's worth it to get all of the goodies out of it unless you want potent AVB.
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2017

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