Dynavap VapCap

[cybrguy]

I hate shipping fees, almost as much as I hate credit card interest. Free shipping is, therefore, an incentive for me to purchase (and run up my CC balance). I have wanted to get a couple caps as I have some that are misbehaving, and I wanted an M18 tip, but I was thinking I would wait till the next sale. Then I saw Bud's code the other day posted by someone, and when it worked I figured I would go ahead and place the order. No percentage off, but free shipping so WTF, ya know? Any excuse to buy more shit.

That's how Amazon got to own me too. I have 5 different Alexa devices and a couple Alexa operated light bulbs...

 

[JamesTiberiousKirk]

curious, can you elaborate?

I think I just prefer the tactile personal ability to control the airport. I plan on getting a carbless stem eventually, for ease of using a glass piece, but the Omnivap condenser control just doesn't mesh with me. I am keeping it, and may try it again later.

Not a very elaborate explanation, but best I can say now.

 

[Squiby]

I 'm really fond of my Aomai lighter for discretion as it doesn't click to light up. So what I'm looking for is discretion while having a short session.

Try the Sip and Heat technique. Put a nug in your Vapcap, don't over fill. With your Aomai heat the twirling Vapcap over the bottom third of the cap, near the digger outer. To heat the bottom third, zig zag the flame back and forth over the area. At the click, take a toke or two, then immediately heat the middle third for about 2-3 seconds. Take another toke or two and heat again for couple seconds. Continue until no more vapor appears. Let the cap cool to the click and dump your load. You can load, heat, time and repeat a few times and dump your load in under a minute.

I love this technique and use it all the time now, whether it is with an induction heater, a quad lighter or my beloved single jet Aomai.

For those that use degummed hemp fiber under the ccd, how do you keep it from burning? It’s collecting a lot of crap, but combusts a bit.

It shouldn't combust, mine never has. I change it out for a fresh filter when it starts tasting off. Check that you actually have degummed hemp fiber. It should not impart any taste nor combust.

I reckon I could chop\crumble the piece and have enough for 2 or 3 smallest setting TiCaps.

If you crumble your hash i would recommend using a filter to stop tiny bits getting into your lungs.

What I do is flatten a bit of soft hash between my fingers into a nice thin pancake to create the most surface area without breaking it up. I pop the pancake into the chamber and heat a few seconds last the click. I don't wrap it in hemp fiber and I don't use a concentrate pad for hash. I find the Vapcap handles hash with ease just as it is.

 

[Lady V]

Try the Sip and Heat technique. Put a nug in your Vapcap, don't over fill. With your Aomai heat the twirling Vapcap over the bottom third of the cap, near the digger outer. To heat the bottom third, zig zag the flame back and forth over the area. At the click, take a toke or two, then immediately heat the middle third for about 2-3 seconds. Take another toke or two and heat again for couple seconds. Continue until no more vapor appears. Let the cap cool to the click and dump your load. You can load, heat, time and repeat a few times and dump your load in under a minute.

I love this technique and use it all the time now, whether it is with an induction heater, a quad lighter or my beloved single jet Aomai.

I've seen you guys mentioning this technique. I will definitely give it a go, just scaring me at the moment as it seems a bit advanced for me. Still a rookie here. Thank you for the detailed info!

 

[Stu]

I believe the personalised free shipping codes were given out to the people who enquired about being "an affiliate" I have been offered a couple of peoples codes already, but not made an order to confirm they work. I was told the newly appointed affiliates were not allowed to publicly share their codes online, but rather through word of mouth.

FC doesn't allow affiliate links, or codes for that matter. The one posted earlier has been removed. Thanks for the heads up, @mrb.

 

[JamesTiberiousKirk]

So, I replaced the innards and mouthpiece of the Omnivap XL with an XL condenser and TI spinning mouthpiece and it is like falling in love again. I was surprised that DV included an extra XL condenser with o-rings with the mouthpiece. Wasn't expecting that but it's a great surprise.

I know similar things have been said before, but to think 10 weeks ago I was struggling with the question of whether to get an Argo, or a Fury2.

Now that question never enters my head. I just want more stems, caps and tips. I definitely have VCAS.

EDIT: just checked my order, and I did order two of the XL condenser - So, no free gifts, doesn't change my DV love.

 

[jds]

So, I replaced the innards and mouthpiece of the Omnivap XL with an XL condenser and TI spinning mouthpiece and it is like falling in love again. I was surprised that DV included an extra XL condenser with o-rings with the mouthpiece. Wasn't expecting that but it's a great surprise.

I know similar things have been said before, but to think 10 weeks ago I was struggling with the question of whether to get an Argo, or a Fury2.

Now that question never enters my head. I just want more stems, caps and tips. I definitely have VCAS.

I did this as well. Ti MP + XL Ti stem + LE 4th gen ti tip is now my favorite vapcap.

 

[LesPlenty]

Dynavap should have free world wide shipping as standard, it is not as if they have anything overly heavy on their site. If Eds TNT can do it (his Ti tips are cheaper than Dynavaps fucked up colour gradient ones that they have the cheek to ask more for), there is no excuse for Dynavap not to have free shipping.

 

[Ramahs]

@Megaton I blocked my M's carb hole using the o-ring method and I have been using it with this for a couple of weeks now:
https://www.dhgate.com/product/mini-glass-beaker-bongs-water-pipes-4-0-inch/392465041.html
It fits like a glove no need for a mouthpiece or anything. This setup has completely sidelined my omni XL

Exactly. You really don't need much water. Something like that, or even a martian. You can get knockoffs from china for a lot less than that link as well.
Your little piece looks perfectly functional.

For anyone else wondering...you can get a decent enough seal without anything but your dynavap and a glass piece with a 10mm glass connection.

DIY Launch Pad - A small round neodium magnet off ebay stuck on the top of a sweet tin lid makes an excellent stand for my vapcap. It might not look as good as the Interplanetary Development ones, but mine has sweets inside it.

Hell yeah. I have a few small magnets stuck to things around the house

Had a rubbish eve in my workshop last night. Was here till 4:30am applying finishes on a table that went out today... HOWEVER given lots of waiting time between coats of stain drying.. I made myself one of my favorite stems yet
Happy vapcapping Tuesday to you all


Looking forward to pics of the multi colored ti parts when you guys get them from DV. They looked nice.

Oooohh. That's nice!

I think I just prefer the tactile personal ability to control the airport. I plan on getting a carbless stem eventually, for ease of using a glass piece, but the Omnivap condenser control just doesn't mesh with me. I am keeping it, and may try it again later.

I've been wondering about that. I have an M, and a couple carbless wood stems with Ti tips on them. My vas has me craving either an Omnivong or a Nonavong-S. But I'm not a wealthy man, and don't like to spend that much on something and regret it...because I can't afford both.

When I originally got the M, I disliked the carb, and just wanted something carbless because I hit it with the carb fully closed most of the time anyways.....Buuuuuuut, over time I got used to hitting the M different ways, depending on my mood. Sometimes direct to lung hits fully closed till a couple seconds past the click before I release the card and clear my lungs, sometimes fully closed and stacking mouth-to-lung hits, sometimes starting with the carb closed and finishing with it open most of the rest, sometimes feathering or pulsing on and off the carb, etc...

These days, I like to mix it up. I usually mouth-to-lung for the first heat cycle or two because it allows me to taste it more, then a couple cycles of Starting carb closed for a second and openingand closing a few times along the way, or feathering...then the last couple heat cycles are fully carb closed straight-to-lung for the full draw till a couple seconds after the click and repeat heat cycles till no more vapor.

Now...I say all that to get to the point that I worry that I will miss the ability to use the carb to customize the hit manually, if I buy an Omni. Plus, the fact that the Omni doesn't fully close off the carb means that I'll have to work the carb anyway. That makes me think that I may be overspending on an Omni.

---------------------------------------------------------------
And also, completely un-related to anything I was responding to above this...to anyone that may be reading this...am I the only one that doesn't give two-shits about the anodized color parts? No offense to Dynavap, or anyone who thinks that they are awesome. If you like them, buy them and rock them. More power to ya, and I'm glad Dynavap made something else that you like...I just don't get the appeal, especially at a higher cost. I also kinda feel like it makes them look cheaper, in my own private opinion. Please don't crucify me for this. lol

 

[Winegums]

Anyone could have colour gradient by sticking one end on a hot plate or torch, wait a few mins for the colours to run and save $25 in the process.

 

[Ramahs]

Anyone could have colour gradient by sticking one end on a hot plate or torch, wait a few mins for the colours to run and save $25 in the process.

Exactly. And anyone can do it electrically with a few batteries.
Wash off the anodizing and redo it if it doesn't turn out right.

 

[stardustsailor]

Wash off the anodizing

Can you elaborate more on that ,please ?

 

[LesPlenty]

Dip the titanium part in rust remover/neutralizer, I think the brand name in the US is wink. There is a video a few pages back showing how to anodize Ti using 9v batteries for different colours, that video also shows him using Wink to remove the anodizing to get the Ti back to `new'.
The stuff I have is called Ranex Rustbuster and contains;
345mL/Ltr PHOSPHORIC ACID, not sure if the same as the video though.

 

[SloJimFizz]

Now...I say all that to get to the point that I worry that I will miss the ability to use the carb to customize the hit manually, if I buy an Omni. Plus, the fact that the Omni doesn't fully close off the carb means that I'll have to work the carb anyway. That makes me think that I may be overspending on an Omni.

That is not a fact, the Omni condenser will most definitely close off the airport. If you like feathering and working the carb leave it open. If your like me, dial it in to let just a bit if sir in and be hands free.
The beauty of the omn for mei is also in breakdown and cleanup and not dealing with the condenser tube and little o rings having to make sure their in proper place. The omni condenser piece is easy peasy to clean and reinstall.
Back to my unscheduled Omni+Skelator session.

 

[stardustsailor]

Dip the titanium part in rust remover/neutralizer, I think the brand name in the US is wink. There is a video a few pages back showing how to anodize Ti using 9v batteries for different colours, that video also shows him using Wink to remove the anodizing to get the Ti back to `new'.

I never etch the Titanium parts that get anodized for only one reason:
I do not want to use products containing Hydrofluoric Acid.
It's a VERY-VERY nasty substance.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Whink Rust Stain Remover
Advertised for cleaning white porcelain sinks, toilet bowls and colorfast fabrics and carpet, the fine print warns people that it "May be fatal or cause permanent damage" and "Causes severe burns which may not be immediately painful or visible."

https://www.cbsnews.com/pictures/ewgs-hall-of-shame-of-toxic-household-cleaners/17/
https://www.ewg.org/guides/cleaners/2957-WhinkRustStainRemover

Fatal in contact with skin
Only in: Household Cleaners
Level of Concern: HIGH
https://www.ewg.org/guides/substances/21744-HYDROFLUORICACID
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanx,but I won't be using this method .
Trust me on that ,I 've adequate chemistry knowledge to be aware of the potentional dangers and
hazards involved ,when handling and using Hydrofluoric Acid or products containing that nasty stuff.
It attacks even glassware .

Nevertheless ,those of you that might proceed with using this kind of method to get rid of
an unsuccessful Ti oxide layer,just remember this:
Even skin contact with Whink can be fatal .

Cheers.



Edit :

Copied from "Whink" label ...

Warnings: Danger: Contains hydrofluoric acid. Danger: Poison. May be fatal or cause permanent damage. Causes severe burns which may not be immediately painful or visible. Vapor harmful. Keep out of reach of children. Use only with heavy duty household rubber gloves. Avoid contact with skin or eyes. Do not taste, swallow or breathe. Antidote: Medical care required. Physician alert: Specific antidotal treatment may be required. Emergency information-call 1-800-321-9065. First aid: Immediately do the following: Skin-Remove contaminated clothing. Flush skin with cool water for 15 minutes. Eyes-Flush with cool water. Remove contact lenses, if any, and continue to flush with cool water. Swallowed-Rinse mouth with cool water. Drink large glass of water or milk. Do not induce vomiting. Then get immediate medical care.



(...)Aqueous hydrofluoric acid is a contact-poison with the potential for deep, initially painless burns and ensuing tissue death. By interfering with body calcium metabolism, the concentrated acid may also cause systemic toxicity and eventual cardiac arrest and fatality, after contact with as little as 160 cm2 (25 square inches) of skin.(...)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid

 

[LesPlenty]

hydrofluoric acid

Is that the same as PHOSPHORIC ACID, because I have been using Ranex for years and got burnt by it a few times and I haven`t died once.

 

[Alex3oe]

Dynavap should have free world wide shipping as standard, it is not as if they have anything overly heavy on their site. If Eds TNT can do it (his Ti tips are cheaper than Dynavaps fucked up colour gradient ones that they have the cheek to ask more for), there is no excuse for Dynavap not to have free shipping.

Didn't know Ed has Ti tips too. So as I'm a huge fan of his beautiful devices and read this, I logged into Eds at once to order one. But there's no shipping to Germany anymore as it seems

 

[LesPlenty]

But there's no shipping to Germany anymore as it seems

Bugger, I would send him a PM, I am sure he would help you somehow, I have almost read all the WS thread and will probably get one to really start my love affair with the wooden world.

 

[Skunkport]

Is that the same as PHOSPHORIC ACID, because I have been using Ranex for years and got burnt by it a few times and I haven`t died once.

...No. Phosphoric acid is fairly harmless, hydrofluoric is extremely dangerous.

 

[stardustsailor]

Is that the same as PHOSPHORIC ACID, because I have been using Ranex for years and got burnt by it a few times and I haven`t died once.

I have 81% ( 810 ml / lt ) concentrated (ortho)phosphoric Acid that I use ,without even wearing gloves.
https://www.growthtechnology.com/product/ph-down/

It does nothing on Titanium.
Unless it's hot and at high concentration .
Then it reeeeeeaaaaaly slowly etches somewhat -slightly.
But not in a level that can remove any anodizing from Titanium.

Hydrofluoric Acid is another thing .
Samewise as Phosphorus is a different element than Fluorine.


The most common source of phosphoric acid is an 85% aqueous solution; such solutions are colourless, odourless, and non-volatile. The 85% solution is a syrupy liquid, but still pourable. Although phosphoric acid does not meet the strict definition of a strong acid, the 85% solution is acidic enough to be corrosive. Because of the high percentage of phosphoric acid in this reagent, at least some of the orthophosphoric acid is condensed into polyphosphoric acids; for the sake of labeling and simplicity, the 85% represents H3PO4 as if it were all in the ortho form. Dilute aqueous solutions of phosphoric acid exist in the ortho form.

Toxicology
Phosphoric acid is not a known carcinogen, mutagen, nor is it known to exhibit toxicity towards a growing embryo or the reproductive systems

In the household
Examples of household products that contain or can contain H3PO4 are: cleaners for toilet bowls, grout, tile, automobile rims, some general-purpose cleaners/degreasers. Some hair/beauty products and some toothpastes and mouth rinses may contain phosphoric acid.[28] These examples, while the amount of H3PO4 may be small, still present potential health hazards and should always be handled safely. Additionally, never mix chemicals at home unless fully aware of the occurring chemical reaction, hazards, and safe-handling precautions necessary to remain safe. In example, the mixing of household bleach and phosphoric acid from a toilet bowl cleaner can cause the release of highly toxic chlorine gas.
In the household
Examples of household products that contain or can contain H3PO4 are: cleaners for toilet bowls, grout, tile, automobile rims, some general-purpose cleaners/degreasers. Some hair/beauty products and some toothpastes and mouth rinses may contain phosphoric acid.[28] These examples, while the amount of H3PO4 may be small, still present potential health hazards and should always be handled safely. Additionally, never mix chemicals at home unless fully aware of the occurring chemical reaction, hazards, and safe-handling precautions necessary to remain safe. In example, the mixing of household bleach and phosphoric acid from a toilet bowl cleaner can cause the release of highly toxic chlorine gas.

Safety
Beverages containing 1 g/L of phosphoric acid are safe. Much higher dosages have been tolerated for prolonged periods. At concentrations at or greater than 10%, phosphoric acid solutions are irritating to the skin and 25% solution are corrosive. Being non-volatile near room temperature, inhalation is not a threat.[16]


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid


In addition to being a highly corrosive liquid, hydrofluoric acid is also a powerful contact poison. Because of the ability of hydrofluoric acid to penetrate tissue, poisoning can occur readily through exposure of skin or eyes, or when inhaled or swallowed. Symptoms of exposure to hydrofluoric acid may not be immediately evident, and this can provide false reassurance to victims, causing them to delay medical treatment.[11] Despite having an irritating odor, HF may reach dangerous levels without an obvious odor.[7] HF interferes with nerve function, meaning that burns may not initially be painful. Accidental exposures can go unnoticed, delaying treatment and increasing the extent and seriousness of the injury.[11] Symptoms of HF exposure include irritation of the eyes, skin, nose, and throat, eye and skin burns, rhinitis, bronchitis, pulmonary edema (fluid buildup in the lungs), and bone damage.[12]


Once absorbed into blood through the skin, it reacts with blood calcium and may cause cardiac arrest. Burns with areas larger than 160 cm2 (25 square inches) have the potential to cause serious systemic toxicity from interference with blood and tissue calcium levels.[13] In the body, hydrofluoric acid reacts with the ubiquitous biologically important ions Ca2+ and Mg2+. Formation of insoluble calcium fluoride is proposed as the etiology for both precipitous fall in serum calcium and the severe pain associated with tissue toxicity.[14] In some cases, exposures can lead to hypocalcemia. Thus, hydrofluoric acid exposure is often treated with calcium gluconate, a source of Ca2+ that sequesters the fluoride ions. HF chemical burns can be treated with a water wash and 2.5% calcium gluconate gel[15][16][17] or special rinsing solutions.[18][19] However, because it is absorbed, medical treatment is necessary;[13] rinsing off is not enough. Intra-arterial infusions of calcium chloride have also shown great effectiveness in treating burns.[20]


Hydrogen fluoride is generated upon combustion of many fluorine-containing compounds such as products containing Viton and polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) parts.[21] Hydrofluorocarbons in automatic fire suppression systems can release hydrogen fluoride at high temperatures, and this has led to deaths from acute respiratory failure in military personnel when a rocket-propelled grenade hit the fire suppression system in their vehicle.[22] Hydrofluoric acid can be released from volcanoes, sea salt aerosol, and from welding or manufacturing processes.[7]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid

 

[stark1]

While you scare the crap inner me sometimes, Sir SDS, it is informative, and hopefully it will prevent
someone from diving into a hydrofluoric frenzy, toxic and corrosive as it is.

To veer away from chemicals, I have recently wondered about the demographics
Of the VapCap Community.

I had always thought everyone here were in their teens, the older members being perhaps in
their late twenties.

How wrong I was. There seems to be geezers among us, the polite word is, “Senior”, I
believe.

Be interesting to see an age chart of owners/users of VapCaps, as well as a geograph of the
International Community. Most are prolly from stateside.

It seems many may be reaching for their “finally!” retirement years.

Hippies, Unite!

 

[Helios]

There seems to be geezers among us,

I'm a Bicentennial baby, these Millennials make me feel like a geezer sometimes
@stardustsailor yea that rust stain remover is no joke, very toxic thanks for schooling us on that.

 

[Mr. Me2]

While you scare the crap inner me sometimes, Sir SDS, it is informative, and hopefully it will prevent
someone from diving into a hydrofluoric frenzy, toxic and corrosive as it is.

To veer away from chemicals, I have recently wondered about the demographics
Of the VapCap Community.

I had always thought everyone here were in their teens, the older members being perhaps in
their late twenties.

How wrong I was. There seems to be geezers among us, the polite word is, “Senior”, I
believe.

Be interesting to see an age chart of owners/users of VapCaps, as well as a geograph of the
International Community. Most are prolly from stateside.

It seems many may be reaching for their “finally!” retirement years.

Hippies, Unite!

What??? Speak up, I can’t hear you! I’m too old...

 

[Winegums]

That is not a fact, the Omni condenser will most definitely close off the airport

Not always, older models of Omni did not fully close off the airport. Even when the tube was backed out of the threads it would still leak air. So I actually removed 1.2mm from the normal length of stems and bodies to allow it to fully close. Dynavap has since changed the Omni specs so that they do fully close.

 

[stark1]

“Watt! I cunt hore you, I have an hear induction.”

Oh. —With your moniker and avatar, I thought you were a pre-teen, ole chap!

What. You just had another senior moment? Bet your mom always called you Mr. Me2, @Mr. Me2 .

Toot. Toot your a VapCap!