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DIY Bulli Vaporizer

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
That's pretty much all I had at the time I made mine. Just start with a small bit and work your way up. As I posted a couple pages back, leave a lip on the top end to hold the O rings inside.
OuterShellThe%20Project_zps8owmnkck.png

This would be the easiest to do. For the Bull, thicker O rings for the bottom, or maybe tubing as I used. This is because the Bull is more narrow at the bottom. The main contact will be along the rig along the outside below the screen. Also, I'd make the holes as high as possible so the air travels around the mid section before entering the Bull.
For the most part #113 O rings are a good fit for the job. If ordering you may as well add a few of other sizes to make shipping worth it and cover all bases.
IMO, that shell is an awesome enhancement for the Bull.
Good luck.
 
Pipes,

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
Im picking up my 22 gauge ss 430 wire from the post office today and im wondering what Custom TCR values I will need to theoretically aquire the temperatures we need for vaping. Any suggestions??
 
enjiatt,

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
I got weird tastes from titanium (consistently) that lessened my vaping experience. So i picked up some SS 430 wire. The camera gave this a blue tinge. This coil resistance is .74 ohms

3tX9jyE.jpg


I started it with just using TI mode and it started vaping at 260F and would combust at 280F lol. This type of range was very difficult to work with .

The regular Custom TCR value for SS 430 is 138 which I tried using but at 65w and 600F degrees it took a lot of effort to vape.

SO the next round I changed the TCR value to 200 which gave me a perfect dark brown at 450F at 65w. Im thinking I should probably be somewhere around TCR 160 to get the type of numbers I am looking for.

5aYkGJl.jpg

The uneveness is due to me having to stir because my setup is still ghetto lol. Just two more days!!!!!
my presets are
m1 138
m2 150
m3 200

Ill try m2 when im a little less medicated. Right now is a little rough.
WHen looking at my wires which have both been through around the same abuse, the SS 430 (left) looks much better and less sick then the TI1 (right) lol.

Also this wire is easier to bend and stay where you want it. But you do have to be careful, this gauge wire was pretty easy to break (but not too hard to avoid)

POND1Aj.jpg


I ordered a new mod and im just going to keep the EVIC mini for the ecig RDA.

I have the Reuleaux RX200 coming because I potentially want to play around with some ceramic soon and I need more battery life. ALSO for this project having three batteries will save time and give more consistent output. I always get the (weak battery) on my evic mini. This unit can also utilize custom TCR values so everything should essentially be the same.

I have a Tobeco Kayfun Lite and a Kayfun Mini V2 coming on Thursday that will end up being my main two units. I got the kayfun lite because I think I can use the glass 34mm attachment to make it a see through unit. no need to check if its done just look at it lol.

ULZaws0.jpg

kayfun_rba_Watermark_grande.jpg
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Wow, never knew programming TCR was part of the Mini's v3 update. Thought it was to increase 60 to 75 watts only so never did it.
Thanks @enji!! Update here for others who may have missed it.
Mind you not excited about the smaller font. Thinking of re-visiting the Nickel now. The update link also tells the pre-sets, so slightly altering the TCR number might be the ticket to calibrate the numbers to make more sense.
Dang, and thought I was done searching the recipe out...lol Never ending story. :sherlock:

Keep on posting those recipes, great stuff!!
 
Pipes,

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
Well tomorrow I retire my current setup (thank god) But she has served me well. This picture was on M2 with is TCR 0160 at 470F with a coil resistance of .74 ohms.
Yes im still stirring unfortunately. Hopefully the kayfun will fix this issue.

D11lG7a.jpg
 
enjiatt,
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StonerSloth

cui bono?
Yes im still stirring unfortunately. Hopefully the kayfun will fix this issue.

Have you tried using the vape upside down? When I use mine in a bubbler it cooks perfectly evenly with no stirring. I think it helps to get some distance between the heating element and the herb. When I use mine upright the bottom of the chamber chars quite a bit. I'm hoping a larger heating element running at lower temp will help this.

I'm drooling over the big beautiful terminals on your RDA. The Bulli screws are so tiny!!

<I have a Kayfun Mini and a few more Bulli's on the way, wtf has this thread done to me?>
 
StonerSloth,

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
Have you tried using the vape upside down? When I use mine in a bubbler it cooks perfectly evenly with no stirring. I think it helps to get some distance between the heating element and the herb. When I use mine upright the bottom of the chamber chars quite a bit. I'm hoping a larger heating element running at lower temp will help this.

I'm drooling over the big beautiful terminals on your RDA. The Bulli screws are so tiny!!

<I have a Kayfun Mini and a few more Bulli's on the way, wtf has this thread done to me?>

Honestly unless im somewhere I can use glass I pretty much am always using the D020. It actually makes me learn how to draw properly on this device depending on the temperature. Im going to miss the big post on the Turbo lol but such is life lol.

SO this is my theory.

My turbo rda has a really small inlet. when I tried using the underdog aluminum stem in that inlet it would either barely vape or it would combust.

When I using the torpedo thing it doesn't combust if at the right temp but it does not vape evenly without stirring. But still honestly works pretty great.

With the kayfun mini / bulli atomizer it should show the heating element enough to vape evenly but also have enough area on top where if I wanted to shake it then it would be fine. Ill most likely buy the dowel that @Pipes recommended to fit my air stems. This combined with the evic mini (75w) should be a really nice combo. Something like the Crafty

The kayfun lite could potentially be the Mighty in theory. Im going to need to make the coil a little larger to be able cover the entire diameter (im thinking @Pipes method with a third wrapping row) but once its covered it will have a lot of heat throughout the entire bowl, easily shakable just in case, essentially any load capacity and This will be powered by the Reuleaux RX200 (200w available vs 75w)

BTW I still think SS at 22 ga is way to go. My coil still looks exactly the same and It literally never turns red. Oh yeah and most important is the taste is great :-)
 
enjiatt,

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
These screws are so freaking small its ridiculous!!!! Super hard to fit 20 gauge securly. I went ahead and ordered this

8lt4WE1.png


THey didnt have any of the phillips m1.6x3 in stock so i just got the 4mm and will either cut it or add an extra washer. Other then that I really like the rx200 but its pretty heavy honestly..
TO BE CONTINUED when these screws come in.

I ordered the tobeco Orchid v4 also because the pieces are interchangeable. It should be much easier to build on.
DVP_2-15-15-17.jpg
 
Last edited:
enjiatt,
Hey, I'm back, just got laid off, so I'll have some time to mess around with this, received a Bull from Xenodius, mine came with .21 coil, been messing around with temperature, haven't "tricked" it yet, but so far I have found that 450 in nickel mode has been where things start to work (60watts). I'm going to go back and do some reading on what temperatures you have set up. I also recieved a non modded unit from Gerrmany, and I'm hoping to get that one set up.

At first I had trouble getting it hot enough but once I read that you guys were using nickel mode, it started working. The vapor sure does feel like its coming from some hot metal. I also noticed some not so good taste, not sure if its the vapor or something that's on the atomizer. Any tips on how to improve taste?? The air feels really hot into my mouth, hopefully a bit of a stem can help with that. I still have some breaking in to do, but I have got it to work/produce vapor.

At first I was intimidated by the coil, but I just ordered some 22 gauge ti wire from lightning vapes... so hopefully I can come up with a coil jig at the hardware store this weekend for when It arrives.

I had ordered a ego mega adapter or whatever it was called and it didn't fit! The one that Xenodius sent me is plastic, and I'm going for all ss, except for mouth piece, so if anyone knows where to get a metal adapter please fill me in.

Really hoping someone releases a wood/glass stem attachment, wanted to try and make one, but I'm just ready to buy one...

Really Excited to see the diy, mod/attomizer that Pipes is talking about. Getting the tools together to make a wood stem adapter is kinda a pain. But, if its going to be open source style, and it sounds like a fully functional unit, its would be more worth it to get a hold of the tools needed....

A while back you made a prediction that "future" units would become one piece, no attomizer just solid mod with center post. I'm REALLY hoping to see something like that. I also had thought of this when I was demo'ing a "REO GRAND MOD" its a bottom feeder mod, basically a RDA with a gimmick so you don't have to drip. Anyone making custom mod/ecig stuff should take a peek at them for inspiration, really cool seeing how it works when its in your hands. Anyways when examining this device, I think I was imagining the same thing you were with saying screw the atomizer all we need are 2 posts with excellent wire mounting situation, and the posts should be mounted directly to the mod... also thought that a besides the two posts and cap, it would be really nice to see a dust cover for the whole situation.

So yeah wanted to let you know I did get it to work, needs some more tuning with temperature and what not, once my 22ga ti wire gets here I'll be attempting to do my own coil on my second unit.

Thanks Y'all and have a good weekend!!
 
legalcloud,
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StonerSloth

cui bono?
I had ordered a ego mega adapter or whatever it was called and it didn't fit! The one that Xenodius sent me is plastic, and I'm going for all ss, except for mouth piece, so if anyone knows where to get a metal adapter please fill me in.

I am on the same quest.

This one is close, but it needs a little more o-ring to seal and it has this stupid proprietary w-shaped o-ring groove that makes fitting a standard silicone o-ring awkward.
 
StonerSloth,

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
Hey, I'm back, just got laid off, so I'll have some time to mess around with this, received a Bull from Xenodius, mine came with .21 coil, been messing around with temperature, haven't "tricked" it yet, but so far I have found that 450 in nickel mode has been where things start to work (60watts). I'm going to go back and do some reading on what temperatures you have set up. I also recieved a non modded unit from Gerrmany, and I'm hoping to get that one set up.

At first I had trouble getting it hot enough but once I read that you guys were using nickel mode, it started working. The vapor sure does feel like its coming from some hot metal. I also noticed some not so good taste, not sure if its the vapor or something that's on the atomizer. Any tips on how to improve taste?? The air feels really hot into my mouth, hopefully a bit of a stem can help with that. I still have some breaking in to do, but I have got it to work/produce vapor.

At first I was intimidated by the coil, but I just ordered some 22 gauge ti wire from lightning vapes... so hopefully I can come up with a coil jig at the hardware store this weekend for when It arrives.

Sorry to hear you got laid off, thats really unfortunate. Im sure everything will work out.

I personally think that taste is the titanium so therefore im using ss430 22 gauge. Others dont seem to complain about the taste so it may not be that (but i can taste it lol)

Which mod are you using??
 
enjiatt,
Sorry to hear you got laid off, thats really unfortunate. Im sure everything will work out.

I personally think that taste is the titanium so therefore im using ss430 22 gauge. Others dont seem to complain about the taste so it may not be that (but i can taste it lol)

Which mod are you using??

Vtc mini, and I'm actually very excited about layoff! It's seasonal so I have been expecting it... It happened on Monday and everyone is like that sux, and that's when I start crackin' up!! Hmm I'm going to have check out your ss build, because I definitely am getting some weird taste... I did order some new TI from lightning vapes so maybe that will change the tastes
 
legalcloud,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
I'm convinced to give the SS a go. Not that sensitive to the metal taste myself but have read some can taste it more than others. Not sure which grade is the best. 304, 316 or 316L which is the latest from what I can figure.
Can't seem to find 430? Did you mean 304?
Gave the Nickel a go but ran into a problem with the EVic jumping up in the read atomizer resistance. Actual value was .06 but after using for a few hits the measured value would jump to .11 ohms and causing it to run away and get bright red hot. Near as I can figure it rechecks after X amount of time and if resistance is not within Y percent of previous measured value, it resets the read...? Just guessing as checked connections and tried two coils. This was with unit in "locked" mode as well. I also went through lots of various TCR values. A value of 630 seemed to give me about the same vaping temperatures on the dial as the Ti coils. (460-500F) Until it jumps...
Back to Ti for now until I get some SS. (316L?)
This guy seems to really like the EVic for SS. Gives me some confidence.

 

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
I'm convinced to give the SS a go. Not that sensitive to the metal taste myself but have read some can taste it more than others. Not sure which grade is the best. 304, 316 or 316L which is the latest from what I can figure.
Can't seem to find 430? Did you mean 304?
Gave the Nickel a go but ran into a problem with the EVic jumping up in the read atomizer resistance. Actual value was .06 but after using for a few hits the measured value would jump to .11 ohms and causing it to run away and get bright red hot. Near as I can figure it rechecks after X amount of time and if resistance is not within Y percent of previous measured value, it resets the read...? Just guessing as checked connections and tried two coils. This was with unit in "locked" mode as well. I also went through lots of various TCR values. A value of 630 seemed to give me about the same vaping temperatures on the dial as the Ti coils. (460-500F) Until it jumps...
Back to Ti for now until I get some SS. (316L?)
This guy seems to really like the EVic for SS. Gives me some confidence.


honestly I want to try some ss317 and ss316L. The ss430 is from the unkamen site.
http://www.unkamensupplies.com/coll...ire/products/stainless-steel-wire-nickel-free

I got ss430 because it was completely nickle free. But I'm thinking that 317L might be really good too taste wise.

The 317L has better corrosion resistance then 430 so I kind of want to try it
 
enjiatt,
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xenodius

Member
I used some Thermomorph to make a holster for my Sig so I can leave it on my new dhgate D020 and use it one-handed. It's surprisingly strong and I used way too much, but hey, it's really sturdy. And molded to my hand. I hold either the D020 or the Sig, I can pop open the GonG adapter as a carb but the draw is open enough it's not even necessary. The Sigelei's recessed side cover pattern is perfect for this, it snaps securely into place with zero wiggle/wobble but can still be pulled out easily enough.

This is exactly what I set out to build from the beginning. A big-ass at-home on-demand vape that is efficient, smooth and powerful, easy to use, wire-free and fully rebuildable! Thank you again for the inspiration Pipes, I look forward to seeing what you turn out with that lathe!

I call it the "Cannabis Cup", or C.C. for short, since you can just hold it in one hand and sip or chug as you like =)

jXm6ujqb.jpg

Full size image.
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Cool setup. I've only used the Bull with the D20 once. Too lazy to keep up with the cleaning. Me bad. Worked pretty good though.
I've been using a long doweling mouthpiece pretty regularly these days. Tastes a little woody but gotten use to it and not that bad really. Still have to grab some Linseed oil to rub it down. It's long enough to cool down the vapor quite nicely and offers hardly any air resistance.

20160129_165758-1_zpslrpvdue6.jpg

20160129_165843-1_zpsjyqafzmy.jpg
 
Hey guys been looking around at different posts for ss wire, and have found some, but the suppliers are rare,
honestly I want to try some ss317 and ss316L. The ss430 is from the unkamen site.
http://www.unkamensupplies.com/coll...ire/products/stainless-steel-wire-nickel-free

I got ss430 because it was completely nickle free. But I'm thinking that 317L might be really good too taste wise.

The 317L has better corrosion resistance then 430 so I kind of want to try it


Did some looking online today at SS wire

316L is all over the place including amazon in all kinds of sizes

317L come in 24-26-28 gauge from the website you recomended.... its one of the only sites I can find 317L in small quantities...
Vape-attomizer-mesh.com which is a European website has sizes from 30AWG all the way down to 18AWG so a bit more variety...

Experimenting with different gauges can be expensive, so I'm going asking for just a bit more feedback before I order.

The TI taste I am getting has got me scrambling to try something else. My new TI wire should be here this week, maybe it will help, but I'm worried this is not the end, after seeing that SS video I'm tempted to work on group buy of different sized stuff.
 
legalcloud,

E0x

Well-Known Member
Hey guys been looking around at different posts for ss wire, and have found some, but the suppliers are rare,



Did some looking online today at SS wire

316L is all over the place including amazon in all kinds of sizes

317L come in 24-26-28 gauge from the website you recomended.... its one of the only sites I can find 317L in small quantities...
Vape-attomizer-mesh.com which is a European website has sizes from 30AWG all the way down to 18AWG so a bit more variety...

Experimenting with different gauges can be expensive, so I'm going asking for just a bit more feedback before I order.

The TI taste I am getting has got me scrambling to try something else. My new TI wire should be here this week, maybe it will help, but I'm worried this is not the end, after seeing that SS video I'm tempted to work on group buy of different sized stuff.

please can you share the amazon links of the 316L wire , i search for it at amazon but don't get any good result.

and can somebody explain me if the gauge value ( 22,24,26,28...) mean the thickness and in that affect the result we are looking for here.


thanks
 
E0x,

StonerSloth

cui bono?
@enjiatt - not sure if you are working on your Kayfun Mini yet, but I just got my Mini v 2.1 and right away I'm noticing a few major advantages over the Bulli. Note these are only preliminary observations, as I haven't built a coil or tried this thing just yet (got it soaking in some iso now...)

1 - Adjustable air flow control (also no need to drill the body yourself.) Air path comes right up from the bottom underneath the coil.
2 - Huge "heating coil" chamber - You can fit a serious coil inside of this thing. (This may turn out to be a problem if it is too big??)
3 - Included stainless drip tip adapter (no plastic!)
4 - No branding/marking
5 - More readily available
6 - Cheap

Disadvantages:
1 - Cheap low-temp o-rings that gotta go
2 - A bit longer overall than the Bulli - see number 2 above

Overall I'm very optimistic.

I've got some work to do over here! :science:


Edit- now I know that you were talking about the Kayfun Mini when you said:

These screws are so freaking small its ridiculous!!!! Super hard to fit 20 gauge securly. I went ahead and ordered this

These screws are absolutely useless, I will need washers at minimum to get working on this one. They are SO TINY.
 
Last edited:

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
@enjiatt - not sure if you are working on your Kayfun Mini yet, but I just got my Mini v 2.1 and right away I'm noticing a few major advantages over the Bulli. Note these are only preliminary observations, as I haven't built a coil or tried this thing just yet (got it soaking in some iso now...)

1 - Adjustable air flow control (also no need to drill the body yourself.) Air path comes right up from the bottom underneath the coil.
2 - Huge "heating coil" chamber - You can fit a serious coil inside of this thing. (This may turn out to be a problem if it is too big??)
3 - Included stainless drip tip adapter (no plastic!)
4 - No branding/marking
5 - More readily available
6 - Cheap

Disadvantages:
1 - Cheap low-temp o-rings that gotta go
2 - A bit longer overall than the Bulli - see number 2 above

Overall I'm very optimistic.

I've got some work to do over here! :science:


Edit- now I know that you were talking about the Kayfun Mini when you said:



These screws are absolutely useless, I will need washers at minimum to get working on this one. They are SO TINY.

Ha Ha yes washers at the bare minimum!!!! i was able to get them in with the washers and I got the screws that you can use the allen wrench with. Still not easy but it is way more doable.

This kayfun lite is great. havent tried the mini yet video uploading now.
 
Last edited:
enjiatt,

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
I have been learning a lot about this whole project. The main thing I learned is that it is best to try to emulate another vape that you really like so that you know exactly what your strong and weak points are going to be.

Convection vapes seem much simpler than people think. Im starting to realize that having a good heat source with good TC is important but if there is a poor air/screen system going through the mod it isnt going to work well. (constant stirring) When i was trying to use my Arizer Air pieces it just was never fully consistent throughout the bowl and I feel that it was because my design had no way of heating the sides.

So in my personal opinion I think one of the best designs we can emulate is the Cloud EVo. We may not reach that perfect quality but im thinking we can make its little brother.

I think if we use the Arizer extreme Q screens and put the flat sides together allowing herb to be loose this will help us with an even bake without stirring. Im already going to incorporate the tall ELB's that are for the cloud. I think this bowl and the consistent heat the cloud has is the main key to success for our convection vapes. It seems that when the ELB is fitted inside it heats all around the filter for an even bake and is said to help with combustion.

Qoizv2A.jpg

F3r3DUN.jpg


Im loving the Kayfun lite (building the coil on the deck still sucks. washer is absolutely necessary) When I use the kayfun lite with my 18mm water tool and a couple screens I get a perfectly consistent brown abv. The whole bowl is the same color.

I'm vaping between 390F and 450F with a TCR of 250 (kind of high) using SS430, coil is .60 ohms

What I actually like about the setup that I have is that when I use it without the bubbler the actual air isnt hot like it use to be. I think this is the glass absorbing some of that heat. It makes the device much more usable.
Sorry I cant show the clouds because roomates arent really cool with the smoke. But next time ill actually start out at 430 F so you guys can see the potential this thing has.


The orchid v4 is much easier to build on but I am having a little bit of trouble getting an even vape consistency. I think i am honestly going to do a double wrapped dual coil build and put it right by the two holes at the bottom and then just change the TCR for the wire to be hotter. ss430 can handle some heat!!

@StonerSloth you should try to put a thick single or stranded coil in the kayfun mini and just turning the TCR up instead of making a really difficult coil. im going to try it tomorrow and see if we can make this even simpler. So far I no longer use my AIR!!!
 
please can you share the amazon links of the 316L wire , i search for it at amazon but don't get any good result.

and can somebody explain me if the gauge value ( 22,24,26,28...) mean the thickness and in that affect the result we are looking for here.


thanks
http://www.amazon.com/Beadalon-Round-Stainless-Steel-10-Meter/dp/B001R8LLW0

I hope that ^ link works, there should be other size options displayed on the page... no idea on how reputable of a vendor "beadalon" is. Still haven't got around to ordering SS wire, but my TI just came in so hopefully I can try to come up with a jiggy tomorrow. If not perhaps straw method1
 

Gator

Active Member
and can somebody explain me if the gauge value ( 22,24,26,28...) mean the thickness and in that affect the result we are looking for here.

Hey a little knowledge for everyone, AWG means American wire gauge. They lower the number the thicker the wire is IE. 20awg is thicker then 22awg. Now this is relevant to these builds becuase the higher the gauge the more resistance IE. 22awg has more resistance then 20 awg. The lower the number means more surface area for heat transfer.

Hope that helps :)

I am still working on my rda build, just bought a cuboid for this reason. I am building a wood piece to hold all my glass together, I will post some pictures soon. I am having a hard time finding any wire at 22awg I can only find 24awg. I'm in Canada so amazon.CA doesn't have a quarter of the inventory .com does :( .
 
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