Divine Tribe atty's

OF

Well-Known Member
Is anyone using a good, compact water attachment mouthpiece with the 2.5 that they could recommend?

@OF - Curious if you're using the TCR mode on your Pico.

I like the factory WPA actually. I use it with my 'Infamous Bubbler', now sadly no longer available? The offset allows seeing both the vapor and the display on the mod.

I've used the PNWT (or 'F-Bomb) and smaller bubblers like this one:
4o2FKQp.jpg


Or even this one:
HXR7A1o.jpg


But I keep coming back to the factory offering.

Yes I am using TCR with the Pico. Same as with EVC Mini, Cuboid, RX200, and iSmok TC100W all of which seem to use the same basic 'chip set'. Set the same an atty performs the same on any. IMO a big step up from VW mode.

OF
 

earth_station1

New Member
I have one of the above pear-shaped tiny bubblers. I use it on a ceramic donut waxpen. It seems to help counter some harshness. I'm guessing a larger unit would be more effective (don't know, this is my only bubbler), but this one certainly helps a little.

I wanted a small water tool for on the go, so I want to keep it simple and as solid as possible, no adapters. I need to look at wax pen alternatives that are direct fit for these small mouthpiece bubblers.
 

lomein07

Active Member
I wanted a small water tool for on the go, so I want to keep it simple and as solid as possible, no adapters. I need to look at wax pen alternatives that are direct fit for these small mouthpiece bubblers.

These bubblers can be had at Fasttech right now for 15% off today only (code LABORDAY , 15% off whole store). Search "glass hookah" and you'll find these bubblers with threaded bases included, or you can also buy just the glass bubbler for ~$1 less. The threaded base can take coils from W9tech or Source.
 

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
I have been using this for about a week straight and really like it still...

Have a couple questions...

I have been getting alot of splatter on the top cap, is there a way to reduce this?

Also I'm normally a reclaimer, but with the splatter, is it best just to toss it out if I do soak it?

The other question is how often do you want to clean the doughnut? I have noticed my wax leaves some residue on the disc and it starts tasting cooked after a couple hits...

Is this hurt tasting vapor okay to ingest and hold into the lungs, or once I taste burnt...should I pulse the ceramic disc clean?
 

wrigleyvillain

A Song of Ice and Vapor
These bubblers can be had at Fasttech right now for 15% off today only (code LABORDAY , 15% off whole store). Search "glass hookah" and you'll find these bubblers with threaded bases included, or you can also buy just the glass bubbler for ~$1 less. The threaded base can take coils from W9tech or Source.

Can you get more specific as there are a lot of similar looking options under that query. Also that "LABORDAY" code was good just this last Sunday? That doesn't make a lot of sense but hey.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Can you get more specific as there are a lot of similar looking options under that query. Also that "LABORDAY" code was good just this last Sunday? That doesn't make a lot of sense but hey.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/2106/10015099/2752500

There indeed are lots of choices even then, check out the pull down menu on the right.

I've no idea about what guys 8 time zones away, living in a different day, with a different idea of labor might be thinking.....but they did say 'one day only' and that was in the past.

Good luck.

OF
 
OF,

Steven

Well-Known Member
@WakeAndVape I can't help you with all your questions but maybe this can help.

To help reduce splatter onto the mouthpiece, there are a few things that may help. Load size is perhaps the easiest tip. Try loading a bit less, like the size of a BB pellet. Second, try experimenting with lower temps/power if that is at all negotiable for you. Third, I don't have a huge splatter issue but some of my friends who do say that they first lightly melt their wax onto the donut before they take a hit. Lastly, and this may sound dumb, but try and have a slow and steady inhale instead of sacking in as much as possible (not implying u do) . I have a very slow steady draw that allows me to recycle the power button 4-6 times. Also your draw technique may help. As in at least have a slow gentle draw the first maybe 4-5 seconds, then draw as usual. Most of the splattering occurs as the wax is first exposed to high temps I think

As for cleaning... I'm a bit of an outlier. I do not reclaim much and I clean my atty every 6 hits or so. I like to keep my donut nice and white. As soon as I notice some build up, I drip all that out and just toss it.
 
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TomTheTank

New Member
Hi guys,

So I need some serious advice! I am looking to purchase a vape box mod or normal vape battery that will work the best for hash oil and I also would like to see if I can find a attachment for dry herb that will actually vape the herb. I would like to keep my mod under 50 ideally but I have seen a lot of good mod's under 50 on eBay but not sure which one will be the best for me!

Please help me out!
 
TomTheTank,
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Reactions: OF

OF

Well-Known Member
I would like to keep my mod under 50 ideally but I have seen a lot of good mod's under 50 on eBay but not sure which one will be the best for me!

Be careful, lots of mods can run the DT in VW mode (say 11 Watts) but you really want to be able to run it temperature controlled for best results.

Perhaps the best two options right now are the eVic VTC Mini and the iStick Pico, both of which should be in the $30 to $40 range if you look around some. This seems to change a lot, I just failed to find just the mod from to 'stateside' sources, but one has the full kit (with tank and e-cig stuff) for $30:
http://vapenw.com/istick-pico-kit-by-eleaf

Remember, with the Pico or Mini you'll also need a high performance 18650 battery to power it.
Me7SB43.jpg


Also worth considering is the one on the left, which doesn't to TC all that well (best used in VW mode) but is a proven, solid unit when coupled to the DT. You can get them as a pair for $50 as a 'FC special':
http://ineedhemp.com/product/fcuserspecial2/

Here the battery is internal.

Regards,

OF
 

fernand

Well-Known Member
@TomTheTank Take it from someone who has been vaping using both 510 ("e-cig based") units and dedicated equipment for nearly 6 years, that none of the 510 based dry herb vaporizers on the market are very good. Here are the main reasons, if you want them.

There are two common methods for vaporizing : conduction and convection.

You can vaporize oil, in all its forms (shatter, wax, budda etc) very well by heating it to boiling, by conducting heat from a heater along metal or ceramic elements. Like in a pan on an electric range, or against the walls of an oven. Heat is then conducted right THROUGH the oil, which boils off as vapor. The controller can digitally regulate the temperature of the heater and estimate the temperature within the oil. Conduction heating is a very efficient use of the available energy.

The DT donuts work superbly with a Temp Controlled power unit, using a single 18650 battery, like an eVic VTC mini, which keeps the oil in the desired temp range, and prevents decomposing the oil or damaging the donut. For oils alone the DC 2.5 or 2.7 with an eVic VTC mini is a great system, that's my recommendation.

But the conduction method is much less effective for particles like ground herb, because the air gaps between particles are not a good heat conductor, and the temperature of particles away from the heat rails quickly drops. It's very difficult to regulate the temperature or to get an evenly extracted herb that way.

Convection is using hot air. True convection vaporizers, like The Volcano, The Crafty or The Solo/Air, start with heating the air. The hot air swirls and fills the spaces between herb particles, bringing the oil in the trichomes quickly and evenly to boiling temp. As the vapor is aspirated it's also kept from settling by the hot air. The controller can directly measure and regulate the temperature of the air right before it hits the herb, giving the user better control over which fraction of terpenes, flavonoids and cannabinoids will be inhaled. There's a reason convection vaporizers are the "gold standard" of cannabis vaping.

With a sensor in the air path below the oven chamber, the controller can do all the work, bring it up to temp and keep the unit on with the air at the desired temperature. The user just inhales and hot air is pulled through the herb. But there's a price. Heating with hot air is less energy-efficient. Compare cooking steak on a 1200 watt hot plate and with a 1200 watt hair drier. Convection vaporizers therefore use line power or a bigger battery pack.


Trying to make a 510 format atomizer do this is hampered by the small battery, the lack of a sensor in the air path and the on-off system that's designed for e-cigs and shuts off after e.g. 10 seconds, with no mode that would effortlessly keep it on while regulating the temp.

So for herb it's either going to be a conduction type device, like the various globes and attachments that just smolder the stuff, or with the DC you're repeatedly pressing the button until a plausible temp is reached for convection, before the battery runs down. Watch Matt honestly present the Divine Tribe DC Dry Herb unit. It's a convection vape that heats the air under manual control. Most others are just incinerators. So for the price I'd say the DC Dry Herb unit is worth trying, but do understand the limitations.

The appealing promise of a 510 based unit that does everything well has not materialized as yet. Hopefully it's clear to you now why.

A true convection vaporizer like a Solo or Air or Crafty vapes dry herb superbly, and oils and waxes by placing a metallic or cotton "oil pad" where the herb normally goes. I got my Solo for under a hundred fifty and IMHO it's a much better way to spend that money than trying a dozen bunky devices like globes and pens and alleged heads and atties and yadda yadda that do not work.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
True convection vaporizers, like The Volcano, The Crafty or The Solo/Air, start with heating the air.

The controller can directly measure and regulate the temperature of the air right before it hits the herb, giving the user better control over which fraction of terpenes, flavonoids and cannabinoids will be inhaled.

With a sensor in the air path below the oven chamber, the controller can do all the work, bring it up to temp and keep the unit on with the air at the desired temperature.

But there's a price. Heating with hot air is less energy-efficient.

Trying to make a 510 format atomizer do this is hampered by the small battery, the lack of a sensor in the air path and the on-off system that's designed for e-cigs and shuts off after e.g. 10 seconds, with no mode that would effortlessly keep it on while regulating the temp.

Watch Matt honestly present the Divine Tribe DC Dry Herb unit. It's a convection vape that heats the air under manual control.

The appealing promise of a 510 based unit that does everything well has not materialized as yet. Hopefully it's clear to you now why.

I agree with much of this but take exception to some statements, like the above.

I don't think Solo is convection, it's conduction. This comes up a lot, you're not alone in the belief it's convection. It doesn't have "a sensor in the air path below the oven chamber", it controls the temperature of the metal cup around the stem. Some vapes, like ESV (another true conduction portable), sense temperature by 'looking' (quite literally in the case of ESV) at the temperature of the source (not the load) and estimating. But that too obviously works as well.

There is indeed a usually quite large energy use difference between conduction and convection. Note Solo/Air gets the same number of sessions (give or take) as say FM and other known conduction vapes, not the 'abnormally short battery life' of ESV (convection)? More evidence Solo/Air is conduction? That is 'it uses power like a conduction vape, not a convection one'.

Actually such a 510 based system does exist, it's just no longer made. ThermoVape's T1 for instance does quite well. Like ESV it controls the temperature of the source (at about 1300F) by design in the Thermal Core. It "saturates" from a heat POV, with the "kiln effect" distributing heat uniformly. A homogenizer grid in both cases makes the heat uniform across the flow path. The battery (really a power supply, the battery (which is really a cell.....) is inside it.....). To make it even more confusing you can also get T1 in 'high voltage' version that actually has a battery (two RCR123 cells in series), although that is even less common. Evolution was a 'vape pen' version of the same idea, it too runs fine on it's 'mechanical mod'. These guys eliminate the need for computer temperature control by careful design. They exist, but the product didn't survive in the real world of marketing. IMO too expensive, aimed at too small a customer base (many of whom didn't really understand I think), and too awkward to learn and use for most owners. But such things do exist, got one right here....... Sadly, they are no longer made.

I also think the DC is conduction, not convection. The walls get hot with no airflow....... It's more like a FM with no temperature control. Notice how the top of the load (where there are no heated walls) doesn't vape as well, with convection that doesn't happen, right?

OF
 

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
@WakeAndVape I can't help you with all your questions but maybe this can help.

To help reduce splatter onto the mouthpiece, there are a few things that may help. Load size is perhaps the easiest tip. Try loading a bit less, like the size of a BB pellet. Second, try experimenting with lower temps/power if that is at all negotiable for you. Third, I don't have a huge splatter issue but some of my friends who do say that they first lightly melt their wax onto the donut before they take a hit. Lastly, and this may sound dumb, but try and have a slow and steady inhale instead of sacking in as much as possible (not implying u do) . I have a very slow steady draw that allows me to recycle the power button 4-6 times. Also your draw technique may help. As in at least have a slow gentle draw the first maybe 4-5 seconds, then draw as usual. Most of the splattering occurs as the wax is first exposed to high temps I think

As for cleaning... I'm a bit of an outlier. I do not reclaim much and I clean my atty every 6 hits or so. I like to keep my donut nice and white. As soon as I notice some build up, I drip all that out and just toss it.
Thanks for the tips. I guess I should have read more in the thread...but I saw OF approved it and was sold.

I thought that the more you clean the doughnut it shortened the life of it.

...So I got everything cleaned up started to dry fire the doughnut to clean it...after two times (of success) i got a check atomizer warning and it doesn't work anymore :rip:

The first time I cleaned the doughnut it happened, but once the atomizer cooled back down it worked again.

Not so this time :bang: I was really digging it too.
VAS has me broke until payday...so no more doughnut for me, unless anyone knows how to solve this issue???

At least I still have my one hitter coiled atomizer, it just punches too hard (during work) and you have to reload it every hit.
 
WakeAndVape,

Steven

Well-Known Member
.So I got everything cleaned up started to dry fire the doughnut to clean it...after two times (of success) i got a check atomizer warning and it doesn't work anymore

What settings are you using to clean the donut. I think Matt recommends pulsing at 15w or something but to be honest, I think that's very risky. Pulse it the wrong way and your donut will crack at 15w. I use 10w in vw mode and recycle the power button until the donut glows. At 10w, the donut will not crack even if you recycle the donut for 2 minutes straight. I do this 2 times daily and my donuts lasts over 3 months. I have an atty going 2 months right now and it still reads 0.72 ohms resistance

Edit
I do remember resistance rising over time due to cleaning at high temps. I used to use 10.5-11 w to clean and the rise in resistance did happen. It all stopped when I lowered cleaning power to 10w. Note I'm not sure if 15w is the actual recommended setting for cleaning, I just remember whatever it was, I personally think it's too high
 
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WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
I was firing it at 12w in TC mode and it was after my second fire, which is really weird because I have fired it more times than that with success...

15w's for cleaning??? I thought going over 12 was risky, I wouldn't even imagine doing 15!

Unless @divinetribe has any ideas...it only lived a week. But what a glorious week it was!
 

Steven

Well-Known Member
15w's for cleaning??? I thought going over 12 was risky, I wouldn't even imagine doing 1
I don't remember whatever the number is, but I personally believe it's too high still. I edited my last post. Do you mind me asking what temp u were using at 12w in tc mode. Also, I don't think it's too efficient to clean in tc mode. It's hard to get the donut red for cleaning in tc mode
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Folks,

I thought I should share my recent adventures with 'clone' attys from China. Over a couple months I collected samples of five different 'copies' from a couple of sources. Two are black, 2 white and one glass. I got a couple of some, one of others.

I finally broke out the box when testing a new mod. In no particular order here's some of my observations/experiences:

  • all versions read lower resistance than the DT. Exact values seem to vary mod to mod but they were about .05 to .1 Ohm less.
  • The lowest resistance doughnuts (one of the white tops) did OK, but needed a bit more power to keep up with the DT. I suspect something like thicker glazing or different shaped heater element?
  • Those same low resistance doughnuts showed up in the black units.....absolutely your top pick if you want a leaking base. I have 3 to prove it. I had to fix one (bad center pin contact) so it could waste wax right off like the other two. All 3 leaked out the bottom by the end of the second load. Complete disaster, save your money.
  • The other black one has a different heater, it has no hole. Just a disk. All I could get it to do was tease with a bit of vapor ans spray the load about. Watching it with the MP off made it look like fireworks in the distance. I'm not having any luck with black ones, too bad, I think they'd look good on small mods.....hey, they do look good, just don't push the button on the side......
  • The other two, one white one glass, both came in about .05 below DT. One had a loose cup, still does. These are shallow cup bases (the leaking blacks the only deep ones) and the holes are a tiny bit smaller. If you look at the round holes in the shallow DT base you'll see their diameter is a bit less than the thickness of ceramic above them? On the clones it's the other way, The solid ceramic is wider above a smaller hole. Slightly. I think. They work OK, but also needed a bit more heat to compete head to head with the DT (one in each hand, alternate hits, in an "A/B Test").
Bottom line is, I think, you can go cheap and get 'almost as good' if lucky. And you can get a guaranteed leaker if you get lucky and order the black ones from the place I did. Or more than one, like I did. Lucky me. Got plenty of black tops now, more than I need.

But why? Matt's bases are sure to work every time, and get to you in a couple days. And be quickly replaced in the case of problems (I had one with a bit too much glaze early on, it cracked the MP, quickly replaced after an email with photo....try that with some of these sellers... Theirs average maybe five bucks, his ten and a half ($21 pair) shipped?

My advice is avoid the whole area. Stick with the DT versions. Try to wear out the real deal instead, the most you can hope for is to save a (very) few bucks, you won't exceed them and are almost sure to fall short to some degree.

OF
 

b3team

Well-Known Member
I picked up a cuboid150 and a DT 2.7, and I think it is pretty awesome. TC is definitely a big step forward. Quick question- when I "lock-in" the ohms on the cuboid, do I leave it "locked-in" at that value for the entire life of the DT atomizer? Or, do I reset and re-lock-in the ohms every session?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I picked up a cuboid150 and a DT 2.7, and I think it is pretty awesome. TC is definitely a big step forward. Quick question- when I "lock-in" the ohms on the cuboid, do I leave it "locked-in" at that value for the entire life of the DT atomizer? Or, do I reset and re-lock-in the ohms every session?

Leave it locked. That establishes a file in memory for that cart based on resistance, the software will track it after that over time. IIRC the latest software allows 10 or so files total for the e-cig guys who swap a lot I guess? If you swap in a different base, but close enough in resistance to not trip the 'new cart' message, the stored/displayed resistance will correct itself as used......at least that's what I think I've been watching.

Enjoy it, you can tweak it later? Not to worry.

OF
 

fernand

Well-Known Member
@OF I think there are both convection and conduction aspects to almost every vaporizer, as both the air and the surfaces get hot one way or another. A FireFly e.g. doesn't use a separate sensor, it relies on the heater coil itself, but it's a convection device. Older Solos have a separate white temp sensor at the base of the cup. Newer ones use a disc shaped sensor beneath the cup against the ceramic donut heater. Air is drawn around the heater through 4 holes into the base of the cup, which is also hot. The oven walls are not heated. You can insert and vape a cold loaded stem, and get very even ABV without stirring. The Solo may give long sessions, but it's because it uses a pretty massive battery pack, two 18650s in series, 7.4 V, 2200 mAh.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
@OF I think there are both convection and conduction aspects to almost every vaporizer, as both the air and the surfaces get hot one way or another.

The Solo may give long sessions, but it's because it uses a pretty massive battery pack, two 18650s in series, 7.4 V, 2200 mAh.

Agreed, it's never 100%. But from a practical POV usually one of the 3 modes of heat transfer so dominates we ignore the other two. That's heat in calories, not degrees. It takes heat (energy) to make vapor, not just heat (degrees)? It's a dynamic process, not static or at equilibrium. To make convection work well enough to transfer the energy we need (heat in calories) to make the ongoing vapor in the upcoming hit we need to have a big 'delta' (difference) between the source and load (in degrees). The source in your FF glows, right? Like the one in ESV and Thermovape products. Say 1200F? We can heat air that contacts that hot. Metal heated to 390F with minimal air contact time isn't going to cut it. I've never tried it but I'd bet putting herb above the partition doesn't work? Should cut the conduction right down, but if it's conduction it should still be fine.......

Yes, that seems about right. 8 sessions or so with two 18650s in Solo, 4 or 5 with one in Air (10 minutes there, not 12) with one, 4 or 5 in the Aura I used earlier today with one, same with Pinnacle, and Imag+, several models of FlowerMates (the larger ones with two batteries again going twice as long. All conduction? All about four sessions per 2000mAh. Against say 4 minutes in GH and ESV with batteries about half the capacity, or 12 or so minutes in T1 with a similar IMR17650, all convection. Convection is expensive in terms of power, several times. That alone indicates to me Solo and Air are not convection. Unless they really are magic which GH and ESV should have used.....

OF
 

earth_station1

New Member
Agreed, it's never 100%...That alone indicates to me Solo and Air are not convection.OF

I'll break it down for you, the solo isn't pure conduction or convection, it's a bit of both because the glass does get hot as fuck and directly contacts the herb, but is at a slightly lower temp. as a result of the design, so it doesn't singe it.
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
@OF Look at the image, the Solo is only heated on the bottom, air intake from above tends to cool the cup walls, yet the whole load is evenly baked. I just don't see how that can occur by conduction alone.

Screen%20Shot%202016-05-05%20at%2020.54.00_zpsapyacpxt.png

Above the separator? Air far from the heater is of course colder. Same on a FF. I never got 8 sessions out of a Solo.

Whatever we want to call it, the Solo's a more effective design than any 510 to date, QED.
 

Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Is anyone using a good, compact water attachment mouthpiece with the 2.5 that they could recommend?

@OF - Curious if you're using the TCR mode on your Pico.

YES! This is what I wanted to talk about, drag the thread back into last week.

bdKJdkt.jpg


This is what I'm using, the straight, generic mini bubbler as previously shown, and also the aquamizer, which is the best compact mini bubbler that I've used to date. I'm happy with them, but I'm looking into different bubblers as well.

And, of course, both of these pieces are intended for the old school micro-skillet glass globes, and aren't a direct plug-in with the DT 2.5, but a simple slice of 5/8" tubing can connect the two parts firmly. I can pick these up by the glass piece with the mod attached and swing it around a bit, the parts won't separate or fall apart.

The tall skinny glass bubbler is virtually spill proof, can be held at any angle or laid down and won't spill water if not overfilled, but it's airflow is a bit more restrictive.

The aquamizer is not as spill proof, you want to keep it upright or laying not close to parallel to the ground. if you lay it flat or spin it around upside down with water inside, the water can travel up the downpipe and into your atomizer and wet your bowl...and a bowl loaded up with concentrate AND h2o... not good! :o

I still like the aquamizer better because it has more airflow and can deliver larger, chalkier hits with greater ease, and it doesn't clog as easily, but I only use it in "safe spaces" due to the larger size and spilling hazard (not while driving, walking around, etc.)

pinnacle-pro-glass-smoking-water-pipe-vaporblunt.jpg

I have been using this thing for years with the dt attys. I actually never dry hit the dt attys. This is what I use when I'm out and about, mostly in my car because it's not that discrete. This may not be the most compact bubbler, but it percolates well and never clogs

Cool, this is what you were trying to show me earlier but your pic didn't work. I'm just wondering exactly how you adapt this one to the DT: you have the old 2.5 mouthpiece jammed inside the 18mm female joint and secured with extra o-rings from the base?

If that's how you're doing it, my questions would be:

1. how secure is the connection between the atomizer and bubbler? loose? tight? can you pick up the whole thing by the bubbler?

2. is the whole thing spill-proof? can it be laid on it's side or upside down without spilling the water?

3. what is the maximum tilt you can hold this thing and still get good percolation and airflow? 45, 60 degrees?

4. how tall is this piece?

Nice find. Is anyone using an even more compact water tool on their 2.5?

I'd like to see that.... :\ I think steven has got us all beat in that regard

best-herb-vape-pen-bubbler-glass-globe-vaporizer.jpg

This is probably something ur looking for. U need to use a silicon adapter on the 2.5 mouthpiece onto this to make it work. But be warned, these type of vape pen bubblers clog very very fast. There are even smaller, slimmer styles out there, but they clog even faster

I have seen these, and am interested in trying, but I'm trying to compare to the nibblers, still. Hard to find specific info on those. What you are showing here, is intended for the micro-skillet glass globes, correct? Could easily be adapted to the 2.5 base then.

My 3 questions from above would apply here as well :D

If it does clog, it's quite easy to iso rinse it.

Yea, whether the bigger or smaller bubblers, clogging is no big deal. Just a little alcohol and salt also if you like, shake, rinse, repeat if necessary. Depending on what bubbler and what kind of material I'm vaping, I could go through a quarter-half gram on a bubbler before it needs cleaning.

I like the factory WPA actually. I use it with my 'Infamous Bubbler', now sadly no longer available? The offset allows seeing both the vapor and the display on the mod.

I've used the PNWT (or 'F-Bomb) and smaller bubblers like this one:
4o2FKQp.jpg


Or even this one:
HXR7A1o.jpg


But I keep coming back to the factory offering.

Yes I am using TCR with the Pico. Same as with EVC Mini, Cuboid, RX200, and iSmok TC100W all of which seem to use the same basic 'chip set'. Set the same an atty performs the same on any. IMO a big step up from VW mode.

OF

The pear bubbler is the same thing that steven is showing, correct? The second one is about the same thing I am using.

By "factory WPA" you're referring to the little glass elbows that connect the 2.5 base to a 14/18 M/F connector? Not for on-the-road use. Also I didn't like these little pieces as much because they forced you to hold your mod or your rig at an angle (not good for splashing or oil pooling) and the globe isn't very big for vapor expansion and our viewing pleasure. :(

I wanted a small water tool for on the go, so I want to keep it simple and as solid as possible, no adapters. I need to look at wax pen alternatives that are direct fit for these small mouthpiece bubblers.

No smaller than what has already been shown here, my fellow bubbler seeker. :cry: If there is more out there, I want to see it! I'm still looking into the nibblers. If you want to eliminate adapaters, you eliminate nearly all possibilities.

Since the DT 2.5 atomizer with a TC mod is so far superior to nearly any competitor out there in the class, I'd rather adapt the existing possibilities of bubblers available to work with the DT, rather than force myself to downgrade to inferior vape equipment just to have a greater choice of water bubblers and easier attachments / connections between my atomizer and glass.

JMO :shrug:
 
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Vape Donkey 650,

Steven

Well-Known Member
pinnacle-pro-glass-smoking-water-pipe-vaporblunt.jpg

http://www.dhgate.com/store/product/pinnacle-pro-glass-smoking-water-pipe-vaporblunt/184494946.html

Cool, this is what you were trying to show me earlier but your pic didn't work. I'm just wondering exactly how you adapt this one to the DT: you have the old 2.5 mouthpiece jammed inside the 18mm female joint and secured with extra o-rings from the base?
jewel_mp_blue.jpg

http://vapemood.com/product/atmos-jewel-replacement-mouthpiece/
http://www.lighterusa.com/atmos-rx-...Ex25daMimjJ_Nad34Iz42bu26u1Av_3ikfxoCMivw_wcB
i use the an atmos jewel silicon mouthpiece as an adapter. i remove the metal part from the atmos mouthpiece and fit it over the mouthpiece of the 2.5 dt cap. Once the DT 2.5 cap has the silicon mouthpiece fitted, i shove the mouthpiece into the bottom of the bubbler where it will always stay, so when i take off or put on the bubbler, the mouthpiece will be fixed in the bubbler. Essentially the bubbler mouthpiece combo has become a one unit moutpiece

1. how secure is the connection between the atomizer and bubbler? loose? tight? can you pick up the whole thing by the bubbler?
the connection is very tight. i can also pick it up by the bubbler with the mod attached no problem. i can understand your concern, i require my bubblers to fit snuggly as well.

2. is the whole thing spill-proof? can it be laid on it's side or upside down without spilling the water?
this thing is absolutely not spill proof. i use it in my car when i'm out and about and i just keep it standing in my middle console. At one point i even made a cork for it out of plastic wrap.

3. what is the maximum tilt you can hold this thing and still get good percolation and airflow? 45, 60 degrees?
60 degrees looks like a good number. you can tilt this thing pretty good and will will work just fine. IMO this thing has the best airflow/percolation of any vape pen bubbler for its price.

4. how tall is this piece?
i provided the link for more info. its a little over 4.5 inches

Best%20Herb%20Vape%20Pen%20Bubbler%20Glass%20Globe%20Vaporizer%20Long%20Shape%20Glass%20Water%20Pipe%20For%20Dry%20Herb%20Atomizer%20Glass%20Pipes%20Smoking%20Pipes%20Aqua%20Bubbler.jpg
http://www.dhgate.com/product/best-...-long/270909930.html#s1-2-7b;searl|2244378508
this is basically very similar to your slim bubbler. although convenient, i am no fan of these bubblers. Airflow is very very important to me. i believe restriced airlfow will only cause more tension in your lungs and intercostal muscles during a hit and that will lead to coughing, even from small hits. Matt has worked hard over the years to improve the airflow of the dt atty and using these little things basically sets the airflow back to the v1 dt atty. i mean they are just ok when clean, but i get these type of bubblers clogged within 2 hits. Indeed it is easy to clean these guys, but i dont want to clean it everyday, which was what i had to do. i actually have a few styles of these just sitting in my closet for a while now. i never even touched these once i found the pinnacle pro water tool

as for a connection method with bongs and the dt atty, i use silicone tubing you can get online or even home depot. 1/4 in silicone tubing will fit over the mouthpiece of the 2.5 cap. i use a female jointed 18mm bong,
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so once i fit the tubing onto the 2.5 dt cap, the other end of the tubing gets shoved snuggly into a 14mm glass adapter for bongs
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. Everything fits snuggly and i can move, tilt, adjust the mods position in any way as i take a hit

My very first post done on a computer. Way easier to post correctly
 
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