Divine Tribe atty's

[OF]

I only gave it 20-25w on my quick attempt at DC TC, which I think is the minimum range of watts for this atomizer. I don't think 12w would do much or reach the temps this atty needs.

Also, interesting stuff on the lawsuits, Mr. OF, I wonder how you are digging this stuff up?

Of course 12 Watts is not a practical level to make vapor with DC, but from a troubleshooting POV it provides insights to what's going on. Sort of like 'taxi testing' a new airplane? Running it 'on the bench' should reveal the time constant of the heater and other good stuff. Often such closed loop systems 'chase their tails' (make the wrong correction based on being 'out of phase'), something like a drunk 'trying to keep it between the ditches'?

If it works at 12 Watts, how about 13? 14? And why not?

You have actually run the TC with no problems on the RX 200? Very interesting. That wasn't on the list of reported successes I got from Matt? Best go check that. The Kbox I tried was a disappointment, perhaps I should get a RX 200, which I'd have no other use I can think of off hand. Bit of a monster, really, like taking your Semi downtown to get a six pack? No, I'm sure the battery voltage is not an issue, such devices convert the voltage to something like 8 Volts before they even start typically. That's how a 'single battery mod' like the Mini can supply more than 4 Volts.

It's pretty easy to research such stuff these days, usually. Nothing like hitting the Library late at night for sure. Google searches came up with the Suit filing where much was buried in 'legalese'.
https://search.rpxcorp.com/litigation_documents/11891651

That's where the 'who is Joytech and why does he keep giving phony names when he comes to town' came from, those legal filings had to define which company was related to which and how for us.

Then a few more searches brought several use groups and forums discussing details.......go figure. A real 'Ford vs Chevy' thing. A lot of serious Evolve fans calling for the death penalty for overseas makers doing what overseas makers can be depended on to do (copy.....) with a just as vocal 'F**K those Evolve bastards, ripping us off like that, they're getting what the deserve' counters. In giving examples they provided other insights. Like these other 'Evolv like' suits that wiped out LHS. I've no idea who 'Hana' and "Hyon" are but they seem well known to 'some of the e-cig guys'.......and they don't seem like nice people.

Much like here, some guys with experience and understanding (like how patents really work) to share with their fellows, some blowing smoke......literally?

I'm sure it's all true, I read it on the Internet.

OF

 

[OF]

As to the lawsuit, we can always go back to the original 18th century Chinese vaporizer:

A little oil lamp was used to heat the tip of the "bowl" and vaporize the resinous substance
through the pin-hole.

Yeah, that 'prior art' thing can kill the party. The "not obvious" test.

I love the above photo. Thanks for posting it. Do I understand right: The goods go in the black metal part which is heated to vaporize them inverted (or at least rotated) from what I see? That is black part down in the flame? Then you invert as in the photo and suck the the vapor out the right end and air in through the hole in the top?

Cool.

Sort of like the Vapman, only very different? Very cool. I assume this is Opium? They were vapers first? Cooler still......

Is that how it is?

TIA

OF

 

[elmoe420]

Yeah, that 'prior art' thing can kill the party. The "not obvious" test.

I love the above photo. Thanks for posting it. Do I understand right: The goods go in the black metal part which is heated to vaporize them inverted (or at least rotated) from what I see? That is black part down in the flame? Then you invert as in the photo and suck the the vapor out the right end and air in through the hole in the top?

Cool.

Sort of like the Vapman, only very different? Very cool. I assume this is Opium? They were vapers first? Cooler still......

Is that how it is?

TIA

OF

Yes this is how a traditional opium pipe works (at least from my experience). The pipe is rotated so that the metal bowl is on its side and sits in an open flame (like an oil lamp). This also lends itself well to the reclined position the smoker would often assume in classic photographs of the dens of old.

 

[OF]

Yes this is how a traditional opium pipe works (at least from my experience). The pipe is rotated so that the metal bowl is on its side and sits in an open flame (like an oil lamp). This also lends itself well to the reclined position the smoker would often assume in classic photographs of the dens of old.

So it vaporizing as we know it, but the heating and hitting happen at the same time? Still plenty cool of course but not like VM (where you heat then hit)?

The only Opium pipes I've seen have all be open bowl, long affairs like long cigarette holders turned up at the end and flaring out.

Makes sense now, thanks for 'splaining it to me.

OF

 

[Steven]

This is my daily, out and about driver. Personally, this is the best all round portable bubbler I can find for the dt atty. When I say best all round, I mean that it is cheap, the size is ok, it percolates decently, and it never gets clogged. Plus I never get water in my mouth. It's basically the 2.5 cap, a silicon atmos jewel mouthpiece as an adaptor, and a pinnacle pro water tool clone I got off dhgate for like $20. I don't use this walking around, but rather just really use it in my car. I like the temp a little higher when using with bubblers. I blow out massive clouds with this

this is what I use at home. It's basically the 2.5 cap, some medical grade tubing, and a 14mm adaptor to my 18mm female jointed piece

 

[fernand]

Yes, Opium. It was smoked in tobacco type pipes only mixed with tobacco, mainly in the 17th century. The long pipes that are sold as opium pipes were never used for that. The boxy metal water pipes with the long curved metal stem were also used to smoke just tobacco.

In the early 18th century someone in China invented the classical pipe, the accessories followed. Quite a setup, because before electronic TC rigs, to maintain proper vaporizing at moderate temperature required complex gear and preparation of the resin. It was spun into a tiny (50mg?) "pill" over the little oil lamp, rolled against the typical hollow doorknob shaped ceramic bowl, and deposited precisely at the pinhole in the bowl. Rolling was a real skill, novices tended to burn or drop the pill every time.

Then the loaded bowl was seated air-tight into the pipe's saddle, held just so over the lamp and the resin vaporized in one hit. Complex mix of alkaloids in the resin. The low temp vape was the most stimulating. Once the bowl got hot and ABV/Reclaim/Dross accumulated inside it was swapped for another from the little rack on the left on the tray. The bowl was scraped with special tools and the reclaim saved for people who liked the more sedating morphine-rich "dross".

The hard pillow and the reclining position wasn't for sleeping, it was the most practical way to prepare and hold the pipe. They say the word "hip" comes from that position, ope was very hip in early 20th century America. In 19th century China they say half the adult population smoked. After a couple of pipes people would go back to business.

The cumbersome and obvious paraphernalia made extermination of the custom easy once the historical bulldozer was set in motion. Nearly 100% of the pipes, bowls etc found today are modern Chinese fakes. You can find "one of a kind antique" items that look like they were dug up from a grave with a quantity drop-down for ordering ;-)

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Of course 12 Watts is not a practical level to make vapor with DC, but from a troubleshooting POV it provides insights to what's going on. Sort of like 'taxi testing' a new airplane? Running it 'on the bench' should reveal the time constant of the heater and other good stuff. Often such closed loop systems 'chase their tails' (make the wrong correction based on being 'out of phase'), something like a drunk 'trying to keep it between the ditches'?

If it works at 12 Watts, how about 13? 14? And why not?

You have actually run the TC with no problems on the RX 200? Very interesting. That wasn't on the list of reported successes I got from Matt? Best go check that. The Kbox I tried was a disappointment, perhaps I should get a RX 200, which I'd have no other use I can think of off hand. Bit of a monster, really, like taking your Semi downtown to get a six pack? No, I'm sure the battery voltage is not an issue, such devices convert the voltage to something like 8 Volts before they even start typically. That's how a 'single battery mod' like the Mini can supply more than 4 Volts.

Well, I was testing the DC in the pico more in a "does this thing work?" type of approach rather than a methodical, experimental, "how does this work? why does it or does it not? what's going on here" type of approach. I just did it real quick to answer the gentleman's question, but I'm sure you can find out alot from running different settings on the DC and testing it with various electrical equipment.

Just a few weeks ago, I bought my first ever very-own electrical multimeter at home depot and in the package on the way to my house with yet-another pico is a geekvape 510 testing tab. (a tool that may come in handy to settle my "resistance flutter" on my mods, another problem) This is the full array of testing equipment and tools I have, it's not much compared to what you have and are capable of, I'm guessing.

I R not inginear

And regarding the RX200, in some of my earlier talks with Matt, he had told me he was "TC-ing the DC" with the relaux, when the DC was brand-new still, even though I have never held that mod in my own hands. But now that you mention it, I read the most recent product listing on www.ineedhemp.com, and the RX200 does say works in TC mode "off and on" so I guess it's a hit or miss thing with the TC. Probably goes wattage when the unit gets all hot and heat-soaked? IDK?

It's pretty easy to research such stuff these days, usually. Nothing like hitting the Library late at night for sure. Google searches came up with the Suit filing where much was buried in 'legalese'.
https://search.rpxcorp.com/litigation_documents/11891651

That's where the 'who is Joytech and why does he keep giving phony names when he comes to town' came from, those legal filings had to define which company was related to which and how for us.

Then a few more searches brought several use groups and forums discussing details.......go figure. A real 'Ford vs Chevy' thing. A lot of serious Evolve fans calling for the death penalty for overseas makers doing what overseas makers can be depended on to do (copy.....) with a just as vocal 'F**K those Evolve bastards, ripping us off like that, they're getting what the deserve' counters. In giving examples they provided other insights. Like these other 'Evolv like' suits that wiped out LHS. I've no idea who 'Hana' and "Hyon" are but they seem well known to 'some of the e-cig guys'.......and they don't seem like nice people.

Much like here, some guys with experience and understanding (like how patents really work) to share with their fellows, some blowing smoke......literally?

I'm sure it's all true, I read it on the Internet.

OF

For this, I meant more, "why are we talking about this?" Then I remember we were talking about what company owns what, which are co-branded and use each other's same chipsets and softwares, then all of the sudden we're talking about historical opium smoking!

Oh where a tangent can land us!

Can we vape opium on the DT 2.5? Probably works way better than these antiques. No leaning required!

This is my daily, out and about driver. Personally, this is the best all round portable bubbler I can find for the dt atty. When I say best all round, I mean that it is cheap, the size is ok, it percolates decently, and it never gets clogged. Plus I never get water in my mouth. It's basically the 2.5 cap, a silicon atmos jewel mouthpiece as an adaptor, and a pinnacle pro water tool clone I got off dhgate for like $20. I don't use this walking around, but rather just really use it in my car. I like the temp a little higher when using with bubblers. I blow out massive clouds with this

this is what I use at home. It's basically the 2.5 cap, some medical grade tubing, and a 14mm adaptor to my 18mm female jointed piece

Cool, thanks for the shares, Stevey. I can't see your pics though. For a lack of my own personal web storage space or not knowing of a place for free, I was posting a few pics and videos on google drive also (I think this is what you did) but this does not allow you to post the pics into a forum, but should allow you to let others download the files and view them in a separate app/program.

It would be nice to see your bubbler setups if you could still post these pics. OF helped me out with the pic posting since I'm new, and I think imgur.com is one of the easier places to post and share pics to any website.

When driving, sometimes I use my little straight water bubbler, and also when hanging out at friend's houses and other safe places, and it is more pleasant to use and allows me to draw bigger hits more smoothly without coughing. If I'm just out and about, walking around, the regular old mouthpiece will do, but I may take 4-6 second duration hits, I can't take a 10 second hit from the mouthpiece without coughing or being harsh if the donut is well loaded up.

and HEY! Elmoe! I still want to see your bubbler collection, bruddah. I see you have several of the nibbler series. which looks pretty impressive on the w9tech website. I was wondering how you like them, and if/how they can connect to the DT 2.5 base. There's also some pieces similar-looking to the nibblers on dhgate, and I wonder how they comapre.

 

[OF]

For this, I meant more, "why are we talking about this?" Then I remember we were talking about what company owns what, which are co-branded and use each other's same chipsets and softwares, then all of the sudden we're talking about historical opium smoking!

Oh where a tangent can land us!

Can we vape opium on the DT 2.5? Probably works way better than these antiques. No leaning required!

Yes, it can be confusing. Because of the way this is organized into a few key Forums without 'threading'. Everything of interest to anyone involving a specific vape is lumped together. This is why 'the rules' have references to including quotes of what you're responding to (there can be several 'sub conversations going on'). Simple responses like work other places won't cut it. Must be a PITA on cell phones (makes me glad I don't do that).

The other rule is about not quoting too much, many just 'reply' to everything, which gets 'cut off' (so it doesn't show in the response without 'opening').

Awkward, but it is what it is. We can, I think, work with it. But 'it ain't easy'.

As to 'can we then use the DT for Opium' I think that's covered in the rules too? "The discussion of hard drugs is discouraged." Historical use of traditional Opium pipes as vaporizers is I think on 'this side of that line' but perhaps we should avoid further discussing using 'our' modern gear for illegal hard drug use?

Some wags my suggest things can get discouraging enough sometimes without inviting more......and they can easily find lots of examples I think.

Good luck with your new meter. It can be your 'eyes' in a world you can't see, taste or touch. And when you can smell or hear stuff it's usually not a good thing. But it's a bit like the difference between seeing and reading, you often need to know how to interpret what you see into useful information. It's a step forward of course, but often along the lines of the saying, "Owning a guitar doesn't make you a musician any more than sitting in a garage makes you a car". Don't get me wrong, it's a step forward for sure, 'the more eyes on the problem, the better' is still quite valid I think. It allows us to share insights/clues/information more fully.....which is almost always a good thing.

Cool.

OF

 

[Bad Ocelot]

Thanks. How sure are you about that model number? I can find "Tesla Nano" in 60 and 100 W, but not 40? Interesting mod, internal battery, although larger than many?

OF

It's the 60, I was looking at the Volt Mini 40w while I was writing that post, ha. I just got my eleaf pico in finally. Works great for my nicotine vaping needs, have yet to put a DT atty on it. May try that tonight as my DC dry herb atty arrived the other day as well. Curious if what settings you guys use for the DC atty. I have yet to dig into the TCR menu & whatnot.

While I've had good luck with the 2.5 on my Tesla Nano, it wouldn't stay in TC with the DC atty. Hopefully it'll work better with the eleaf pico or the Reuleaux I should be receiving next week sometime. I assume since there's a package on the DT site with the DC & the RX200 they should work well together? Though I just saw a post saying the RX200 didn't work so well with the 2.5/7 so now I'm a bit worried... The box mods are really starting to accumulate lol.

 

[lomein07]

tl;dr - Yes, I agree with your observations, and my testing results agree with yours.

My two replacement atty's showed up on Weds. I burned out my original one with overenthusiastic cleaning a month or so ago (15W for way to long...). Both the new atty's do show a resistance change with temperature, which my first one didn't. (Or maybe the iStick 40W-TC I was using with the first one just wasn't as suitable for monitoring resistance changes as the VTC-Mini I'm using now is; I suspect it was the original atty though, since my ohm meters didn't show a change with temperature either. I can't re-test the original one as it's an open circuit now...).

So before I put them into service, I did some experimenting with the new, virgin, never been loaded with concentrate atty's.

The two new atty's have a cold resistance of 0.77Ω and 0.74Ω and they rise in resistance to ~1.15Ω when I feed 12.5W into them and wait for them to just start glowing red. (My atty's need 12.5W for almost 10 seconds before they just start to glow red). I don't have an IR temp meter and there's no way for me to measure what the temperature of the ceramic is, so I picked an arbitrary TC (I chose Ni200 as you did), set the power limit to 12.5W, and set the temp limit to 600°F (Max). Then I watched the ceramic disk while monitoring the resistance and noted that at 1.15Ω the disk just started to glow red. The (inaccurate) temp reading is irrelevant, though it was always below the 600°F I set, meaning that the VTC-Mini wasn't going into temp limit.

What this "experiment" told me is that since I don't want the disk to ever glow red while I'm vaping, I don't want the resistance to ever go as high as 1.15Ω. (Why I've decided I don't want the disk to ever glow red when I'm vaping it belongs in another message). So then I started lowering the temp limit while watching the resistance until I reached a temp where the limiting started when the resistance was 1.0Ω-1.1Ω. This turned out to be, wait for it, 330°F.

And so far, three days into using these settings, I haven't felt the need to change them, except when I've been outside, which has been in the 20°-30° range here in NYC. And then I just raised the temp limit to 340°F.

So what do I think this means? I know that the mod's temp control function really only measures one thing, the (changing) resistance of the load. The temperature setting/readout value is solely based on knowing what the thermal coefficient (TC) of the load is. When one sets the temp limit, one is really setting the maximum allowable resistance of the load (i.e., a resistance limit). If one knows the TC of the load, then one can calculate what the temperature is, and then one could expect that the temperature readout on the mod would be reasonably accurate. But not knowing the real temperature is not very important to my enjoying the use of the DT atty. That said, if the TC of the DT atty is linear in the temp range we care about, then entering the correct TC will allow the temp readout to be fairly accurate. With the VTC-Mini we've been talking about, one can enter a custom TC (three, actually) besides the fixed (Ni200, Ti, SS, etc) ones.

This leads me to ask you how long you think it will take you to figure out the correct TC for our atty's?

Thank you for this informative post. Some people on the Waxpen subreddit believe TC is not possible with ceramic donuts. I'd like to try. Would be great to just vape without focusing on pulsing the VW power button.

So getting an Evic VTC Mini would be the best choice? Could the iStick Pico do just as well? Using Source Orb Quartz Terra atomizers.

 

[Steven]

Some people on the Waxpen subreddit believe TC is not possible with ceramic donuts. I'd like to try. Would be great to just vape without focusing on pulsing the VW power button.

TC has been possible with ceramic donuts for quite some time my friend. Many of us here have been using tc with Matt's Divine tribe donut attys for a year or so. However, I can't say if it will work for the source Terra donuts because I've never tried them. Have u seen source's portable nail attys that will be 510 threaded. Very interesting. They are taking the dabado and making it a 510

 

[OF]

So getting an Evic VTC Mini would be the best choice? Could the iStick Pico do just as well? Using Source Orb Quartz Terra atomizers.

Yes, they both work with the DT doughnuts, don't know about any others. So will Cuboid, iStick TTC100W, RX200, and no doubt others I haven't tried (and reported here earlier). The invader (different 'chip set') will also work but you have to 'lie' to it since it only knows about the wrong metal type. IIRC you ask for about 230F? This is what the Pico and Mini look like with the TC40W which works VW mode only:

OF

 

[WakeAndVape]

So I just got my doughnut today! Digging it so far, works well on my device...quick question, I have it on 11w and 550°f and it doesn't get red or glow at all...is this expected? Also if it should get a little hotter, how high should I be going?

 

[OF]

So I just got my doughnut today! Digging it so far, works well on my device...quick question, I have it on 11w and 550°f and it doesn't get red or glow at all...is this expected? Also if it should get a little hotter, how high should I be going?

It should not glow in normal use. 11 Watts seems to hold temperature well enough with most waxes/oils, many of us use 12 Watts in VW mode but have to be ready to cut the power (it can get too hot if there's not much concentrate in it without TC.

You're not really in TC mode as you're running it almost surely. It's not going to make 550F. You're simply running 'wide open' in VW mode at 11 Watts.

What mod are you running? You want to hit "Temperature protect" to be in TC mode controlling the temperature.

Glad you're enjoying it, poke around some, but don't run the power up past 12 Watts new (maybe another half Watt as it ages?). Matt reports lots of guys eventually crack their doughnuts running 14 Watts (about when they start to glow?) so there's not a lot of margin.

OF

 

[WakeAndVape]

It should not glow in normal use. 11 Watts seems to hold temperature well enough with most waxes/oils, many of us use 12 Watts in VW mode but have to be ready to cut the power (it can get too hot if there's not much concentrate in it without TC.

You're not really in TC mode as you're running it almost surely. It's not going to make 550F. You're simply running 'wide open' in VW mode at 11 Watts.

What mod are you running? You want to hit "Temperature protect" to be in TC mode controlling the temperature.

Glad you're enjoying it, poke around some, but don't run the power up past 12 Watts new (maybe another half Watt as it ages?). Matt reports lots of guys eventually crack their doughnuts running 14 Watts (about when they start to glow?) so there's not a lot of margin.

OF

This is my mod...there is no temperature protection setting in the menu, but it has never jumped out of TCalifornia.

So that's good. I won't try to get it to glow!

I've been using this thing a few times this evening and I'm nicely smashed...

It will be a fun weekend.

I'm sure a new mod purchase in the immediate future is eminent

 

[wrigleyvillain]

Get an eVic VTC Mini it is probably the best bang-for-buck box mod yet.

 

[OF]

Get an eVic VTC Mini it is probably the best bang-for-buck box mod yet.

Great little unit for sure. Depending on what you paid the Pico might shave it? I got my last one in two days from Fl priority mail for $35. You can get them for $27 or so from China, or could, several dollars less than what I paid for my Minis. A bit smaller and lighter, has basically the same 'chip set' and performance (same basic maker). Close call IMO. I think the Pico's more rounded body is easier/better to grip, the next guy could easily think the opposite.

There are also larger, two battery, versions of each with longer charge life, but IMO that's going the wrong way with the DT.

The Mini will do a fine job, you're sure to like it. Set the "M" value to 245, 12 Watts, dial up about 400F and settle back.

OF

 

[OF]

Gentle Friends,

Some more testing on the DC (herb) cart in TC mode for your reading enjoyment and reflection?

After trying my new RX200 and finding, as you might expect, it behaves basically like the VTC Mini. Cuboid, ISmok Pico, TC100W and all the rest of them that share the same 'chip set'. Makes sense to me. That is the DC cart 'slips back into VW mode without warning. I think I know why.

I took a "Fishbone RDA Atomizer Base" to experiment with. A nice stout 510 base with 3 sets of screw connectors for heaters. I put about 8 inches of 22 AWG Nichrome wire in it (about .75 Ohms) and can run it in TC mode at 24 Watts just fine (although the temperature display doesn't go up much, perhaps because it's a long loop rather than a coil? Anyway it 'holds fine'.

Increase the length of the heater to a foot, just under 1.0 Ohms and it crashes back into VW mode even though it's now heating less wire (so the wire is cooler). Set it half way between these two lengths and it works for several seconds before 'crashing' again.

I think we're just too many Ohms. Later when I get a chance I plan to start with the 'impossible to run' 12 inch and put a second, similar heater in parallel (for about half an Ohm as parallel resistors do). I'm betting it too works just fine. This means, I think, that changing to larger gauge wire (of the same length) or cutting the existing wire in half electrically putting it in parallel will get us inside the limits mod makers expect to deal with.

More later.

OF

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

So I just got my doughnut today! Digging it so far, works well on my device...quick question, I have it on 11w and 550°f and it doesn't get red or glow at all...is this expected? Also if it should get a little hotter, how high should I be going?

It should only glow red if you're trying to clean it. My donuts will glow orange at TC-Ni @ 600F, even redder at 11-12w fixed at VW for 10+ seconds, but will not glow at all @ TCR 245.

When you've found the right setting, it shouldn't glow, but just get a little warm to the touch on the ceramic body after some repeated use, or it should blow/suck some warm air out from the top, if you dry-fire it with an empty load. With a mod we don't know about in TC, it's always good to start at the bottom and work your way up until the flavor/vape production balance meets your tastes

Gentle Friends,

Some more testing on the DC (herb) cart in TC mode for your reading enjoyment and reflection?

After trying my new RX200 and finding, as you might expect, it behaves basically like the VTC Mini. Cuboid, ISmok Pico, TC100W and all the rest of them that share the same 'chip set'. Makes sense to me. That is the DC cart 'slips back into VW mode without warning. I think I know why.

I took a "Fishbone RDA Atomizer Base" to experiment with. A nice stout 510 base with 3 sets of screw connectors for heaters. I put about 8 inches of 22 AWG Nichrome wire in it (about .75 Ohms) and can run it in TC mode at 24 Watts just fine (although the temperature display doesn't go up much, perhaps because it's a long loop rather than a coil? Anyway it 'holds fine'.

Increase the length of the heater to a foot, just under 1.0 Ohms and it crashes back into VW mode even though it's now heating less wire (so the wire is cooler). Set it half way between these two lengths and it works for several seconds before 'crashing' again.

I think we're just too many Ohms. Later when I get a chance I plan to start with the 'impossible to run' 12 inch and put a second, similar heater in parallel (for about half an Ohm as parallel resistors do). I'm betting it too works just fine. This means, I think, that changing to larger gauge wire (of the same length) or cutting the existing wire in half electrically putting it in parallel will get us inside the limits mod makers expect to deal with.

More later.

OF

Thanks for sharing your latest tests with us. Just on a hunch, I had earlier suspected that coil resistance rising too high would be the reason, since that's one of the main limitations on today's crop of TC mods, but I didn't have any idea on how or why this is happening. We've seen the 2.5 atomizer base opened up on the inside, it would be interesting to see the DC's internals as well.

If Matt could get his suppliers to source thicker wires to have the next version of the DC and also V3 atomizer have lower resistance, say maybe 0.5 or even 0.2 ohm, that would be a potential improvement in TC reliability and the control of our donut temps, but it would come at the cost of battery life, correct?

Just anecdotally from using dozens of 2.5 bases right now, I feel like I've had the best vapor quality and accuracy of temp control on the bases that are closer to 0.70 instead of the 0.80's, (especially on TC-NI instead of TCR) although there could be other factors such as variations in different batches of atomizers coming out of the factory as well.

Also, with my recent shopping for sub-ohm coils for use in TC mods with co2 oil, I'm noticing most of the coils intended for TC use are lower resistance. Seems like the trends for coils these days are to 'go low'

 

[earth_station1]

Is anyone using a good, compact water attachment mouthpiece with the 2.5 that they could recommend?

@OF - Curious if you're using the TCR mode on your Pico.

 

[Steven]

I have been using this thing for years with the dt attys. I actually never dry hit the dt attys. This is what I use when I'm out and about, mostly in my car because it's not that discrete. This may not be the most compact bubbler, but it percolates well and never clogs

 

[lomein07]

It should only glow red if you're trying to clean it. My donuts will glow orange at TC-Ni @ 600F, even redder at 11-12w fixed at VW for 10+ seconds, but will not glow at all @ TCR 245.

Great info, thanks. With higher resistance, should I be changing the TCR higher or lower than 245? My six Source donuts vary from 0.8ohms to 1.3ohms.

Will have an iStick Pico very soon!

 

[earth_station1]

Nice find. Is anyone using an even more compact water tool on their 2.5?

 

[Steven]

This is probably something ur looking for. U need to use a silicon adapter on the 2.5 mouthpiece onto this to make it work. But be warned, these type of vape pen bubblers clog very very fast. There are even smaller, slimmer styles out there, but they clog even faster

 

[lomein07]

I have one of the above pear-shaped tiny bubblers. I use it on a ceramic donut waxpen. It seems to help counter some harshness. I'm guessing a larger unit would be more effective (don't know, this is my only bubbler), but this one certainly helps a little.

If it does clog, it's quite easy to iso rinse it.