Divine Tribe atty's
- Thread starter divinetribe
- Start date
@fernand I haven't tried it on any device other than a DNA. That being said I've used it on a DNA 200, a DNA 75c, and a DNA 75c using Replay Mode. The most consistent results have been with Replay Mode, which I dialed in via trial and error as you explained. If your mod has the ability to fire programmed sequences, you could probably get the same exact experience if you wait for the resistance/temp to settle between hits.
@Hackerman
@Hackerman
fernand
Well-Known Member
Someone cool recommended this brilliant little tool 4 years ago,
and I want to pass it on. It's given years of service, and still does.
https://www.amazon.com/TONIC-STUDIO...645&sr=8-1&keywords=retractable+needle+crafts
LOL ? - not.
Do the math. 15 mg dab, 70% THC = 10.5 mg THC. QED.
Some may want to double or triple that.
But we're still in nanodab territory.
So what do we get?
Reporting today's hotter settings experiments on my iLeaf Pico
Resistance, cold, reads 0.25 Ohm
Set TCR M3 = 230
Set Ramp up wattage 30W
Set target temp 360
10 Sec Cycles to stable temp 2-3
Cup temp ~ 350-370 with peaks < 400 Deg F.
By the end of the second timeout we're reaching
operating temp and start slowly inhaling.
Output: Two non-hurty, tasty and potent tokes
that don't look like Volkswagen diesel smoke.
Not trying to convert anyone, mind you,
but 451 deg is veg combustion. By then the
substances of interest have long boiled off.
With those hot & hurty nails, or high settings,
nobody's really vaporizing much of anything.
It's more like a BBQ flash fire in a garbage can.
Stuff's decomposing. The actives that do survive
the storm are a fraction of what was available.
There sure wouldn't be 10 mg of that THC left!
So people use much bigger dabs, raise the temp,
and even less of that ever sees the light of brain.
What we're calling Low Temp Dabbing now is
the only way to actually vaporize and inhale
most of a concentrate dab. That's why those
nanodabs aren't as tiny as they might seem.
Me, I just hate doing the dishes, and this way
makes for such an easy Q-Tip clean-up, LOL !
and I want to pass it on. It's given years of service, and still does.
https://www.amazon.com/TONIC-STUDIO...645&sr=8-1&keywords=retractable+needle+crafts
LOL ? - not.
Do the math. 15 mg dab, 70% THC = 10.5 mg THC. QED.
Some may want to double or triple that.
But we're still in nanodab territory.
So what do we get?
Reporting today's hotter settings experiments on my iLeaf Pico
Resistance, cold, reads 0.25 Ohm
Set TCR M3 = 230
Set Ramp up wattage 30W
Set target temp 360
10 Sec Cycles to stable temp 2-3
Cup temp ~ 350-370 with peaks < 400 Deg F.
By the end of the second timeout we're reaching
operating temp and start slowly inhaling.
Output: Two non-hurty, tasty and potent tokes
that don't look like Volkswagen diesel smoke.
Not trying to convert anyone, mind you,
but 451 deg is veg combustion. By then the
substances of interest have long boiled off.
With those hot & hurty nails, or high settings,
nobody's really vaporizing much of anything.
It's more like a BBQ flash fire in a garbage can.
Stuff's decomposing. The actives that do survive
the storm are a fraction of what was available.
There sure wouldn't be 10 mg of that THC left!
So people use much bigger dabs, raise the temp,
and even less of that ever sees the light of brain.
What we're calling Low Temp Dabbing now is
the only way to actually vaporize and inhale
most of a concentrate dab. That's why those
nanodabs aren't as tiny as they might seem.
Me, I just hate doing the dishes, and this way
makes for such an easy Q-Tip clean-up, LOL !
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Great write-up @fernand I agree on all points. Also, here's the pick I use on the go:
https://www.amazon.com/BangTi-Titanium-Toothpick-Waterproof-Holder/dp/B00NX8BF3W/
If you search "titanium toothpick" there are a bunch of similar products if you want a different design.
https://www.amazon.com/BangTi-Titanium-Toothpick-Waterproof-Holder/dp/B00NX8BF3W/
If you search "titanium toothpick" there are a bunch of similar products if you want a different design.
fernand
Well-Known Member
@JigMelon that's a classier look, fer shure.
I like retractile interrogation accessories.
Hey @Vape Donkey 650, what is that holy grail
"mixing straight distillate with HTFSE pour-off "?
Yo @looney2nz where did you score that ethanol? It's
getting hard to find stateside. I got 200 ml for less weight
and not having to lie to officials about exact purpose.
Cheap and plentiful in liquor stores in corners of the EU.
I had a friend drink my little bottle of tape head cleaner
a few years ago, when big tape machines were cool.
I mean the first time. Now they're cool again, like wide
ties.
Meanwhile exploring the Quartz Quest is a
lot like having just gotten a new bike or car.
Incredible, this is a 15 mg load, it's pooled
at the edges. It took 10 attempts to clear it,
but it just kept on giving. Thin wispy vapor
but full of everything. In fact, look in wonder
at the top of the cup, that's what's in that
barely opaque exhalate. After 10 attempts
what's left is thicker and has a very different
taste. At that temp it's not going anywhere,
but it smells like tractor tires. Q-Tip time.
Patient says those were some fine attempts,
cleared the deck with a grin. Some trouble
then with finding car keys.
As to the clean-up, it's like elves clean it in
my absence. 'Cause it becomes second nature
to hit it with both ends of a Q-tip, then with
one dipped in an alcohol of your choice. 99%
Iso's cheap and works well. The outers get
what's left of the Iso. Clean as the assassin's
knife.
I once had a surly pharmacist try to sell me
70% insisting it was BETTER.
I like retractile interrogation accessories.
Hey @Vape Donkey 650, what is that holy grail
"mixing straight distillate with HTFSE pour-off "?
Yo @looney2nz where did you score that ethanol? It's
getting hard to find stateside. I got 200 ml for less weight
and not having to lie to officials about exact purpose.
Cheap and plentiful in liquor stores in corners of the EU.
I had a friend drink my little bottle of tape head cleaner
a few years ago, when big tape machines were cool.
I mean the first time. Now they're cool again, like wide
ties.
Meanwhile exploring the Quartz Quest is a
lot like having just gotten a new bike or car.
Incredible, this is a 15 mg load, it's pooled
at the edges. It took 10 attempts to clear it,
but it just kept on giving. Thin wispy vapor
but full of everything. In fact, look in wonder
at the top of the cup, that's what's in that
barely opaque exhalate. After 10 attempts
what's left is thicker and has a very different
taste. At that temp it's not going anywhere,
but it smells like tractor tires. Q-Tip time.
Patient says those were some fine attempts,
cleared the deck with a grin. Some trouble
then with finding car keys.
As to the clean-up, it's like elves clean it in
my absence. 'Cause it becomes second nature
to hit it with both ends of a Q-tip, then with
one dipped in an alcohol of your choice. 99%
Iso's cheap and works well. The outers get
what's left of the Iso. Clean as the assassin's
knife.
I once had a surly pharmacist try to sell me
70% insisting it was BETTER.
Last edited:
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
I bought the ethanol off of Amazon, it's organic grain alcohol, 'kosher since 1961', label and distribution by X-F-B (xfbev.com), it was pricey, between the hooch and the taxes.
Tape head cleaner had methanol in it!
I remember 'cool' 2" 24-track Studer A-80's (and many other's that preceded them).
I still have my wide-ties too
fernand
Well-Known Member
@looney2nz Methanol? Not in MY tape head cleaners!
I was Sony/MCI JH-24, washing-machine sized 24 track.
Funny to see youngsters, who have all that functionality
in a corner of their notebook, longing for the "more real"
sound of a monster tape machine that took a half hour
to align every morning ... and still hissed and fluttered.
I was Sony/MCI JH-24, washing-machine sized 24 track.
Funny to see youngsters, who have all that functionality
in a corner of their notebook, longing for the "more real"
sound of a monster tape machine that took a half hour
to align every morning ... and still hissed and fluttered.
New final prototypes
fernand
Well-Known Member
Yo, Matt @divinetribe ! He's back and lookin' good.
One detail on the GonG. If the tubelets point straight down at the cup, it has to splash if there's enough oil to go around. On the standard one tubelet cap I've been drawing very slowly and it's OK, but it's on small loads. I've also tried raising the cap to the 1st o-ring on the heat sink base so the incoming air doesn't blow right at the oil.
How about pointing the tubelets in the GonG more sideways above the cup in a rotary to create a vape vortex
that doesn't splash oil? Maybe extending the cap, making it taller would be good? Or did you try it out and it's perfect this way ;-) ?
Does the donut heat as much as two rods?
One detail on the GonG. If the tubelets point straight down at the cup, it has to splash if there's enough oil to go around. On the standard one tubelet cap I've been drawing very slowly and it's OK, but it's on small loads. I've also tried raising the cap to the 1st o-ring on the heat sink base so the incoming air doesn't blow right at the oil.
How about pointing the tubelets in the GonG more sideways above the cup in a rotary to create a vape vortex
that doesn't splash oil? Maybe extending the cap, making it taller would be good? Or did you try it out and it's perfect this way ;-) ?Does the donut heat as much as two rods?
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looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
Yo, Matt @divinetribe ! He's back and lookin' good.
One detail on the GonG. If the tubelets point straight down at the cup, it has to splash if there's enough oil to go around. On the standard one tubelet cap I've been drawing very slowly and it's OK, but it's on small loads. I've also tried raising the cap to the 1st o-ring on the heat sink base so the incoming air doesn't blow right at the oil.
How about pointing the tubelets in the GonG more sideways above the cup in a rotary to create a vape vortex
Does the donut heat as much as two rods?
GMTA! I was thinkin' the very same thing. Was gonna see if a friend who knows fluid dynamics would tell me if I was crazy or not
I'm not sure how accurately they can place the tubes in assembly, but it could be very beneficial!@divinetribe Looks great! What are the two different devices? Is the second a DTv3.5 w/ Quartz?
@fernand I totally agree on all parts. I've also had good results lifting the cap a bit higher. I was house sitting for two weeks a couple months ago, and all I had was my Sai and QQ. The QQ at low temp, low enough where it takes those 6+ rips to fully clear, is just fantastic. The vapor is thin and wispy as you said, but the flavor is hard to beat on a 510 device. I mentioned that a few pages back. Not the most portable since it's glass, but the flavor experience it provides is good enough to justify using at home. It's all about how quickly and consistently it heats up. It's almost like dropping a 16mm insert into a 16mm liger. The small size of the crucible/cup is exactly what allows this device to work so well.
@fernand I totally agree on all parts. I've also had good results lifting the cap a bit higher. I was house sitting for two weeks a couple months ago, and all I had was my Sai and QQ. The QQ at low temp, low enough where it takes those 6+ rips to fully clear, is just fantastic. The vapor is thin and wispy as you said, but the flavor is hard to beat on a 510 device. I mentioned that a few pages back. Not the most portable since it's glass, but the flavor experience it provides is good enough to justify using at home. It's all about how quickly and consistently it heats up. It's almost like dropping a 16mm insert into a 16mm liger. The small size of the crucible/cup is exactly what allows this device to work so well.
Vape Donkey 650
All vape, no smoke please.
@fernand, nice to see you enjoying your new QQ so much. You're all over the place here, idk if I can keep up with your low-temp energy but I'll try for a minute
Good work, you'll find that on mods with a 1-999 TCR range, #s in the range of 220-240 will allow the ceramic rods to heat the apparent surface temp of the quartz cup to be approximately the same temp as what you see on the screen, after a 15-30 second warm up period, depending on your settings. It can even hold that heat for a while, with the button being pressed down continuously, but you'll find the cup will eventually overheat if you have the button held down continuously for a prolonged time, even with TC operation working well.
I'm sure you set your IR themometer to 0.93 to get the best reading, far from the 0.65 you probably had it set to when you last looked at your ceramic donuts or crucibles? That might just be close enough to the default 0.95 to get a usable reading.
Of course you know the IR gun is a 'rough' measurement, but better than nothing at least. To be truly precise and granular, you need to get a high-resolution, hi-heat FLIR. Check out some of @FMSQ's old posts to see some cool pics.
Also, I must say, it seems that you are using MUCH lower temps than most people prefer. If I was trying to vape that low temp on my QQ, I would expect only flavor and little clouds or satisfaction at all.
Your mindfulness of how cannabinoids and terpenoids can thermally break down and how delicate and precious they are is well taken, but I think you're overlooking a key point of thizzics in your quest for vape precision:
the thermal conductivity of quartz (or various materials)
The thermal conductivity of quartz is MUCH lower than alumina ceramic!
Looking through that article or other data, trying to see what kind of quartz is in our QQ, what kind of alumina is in our donuts, trying to narrow it down to see the exact conductivity of the materials seems moot, because all the quartz are pretty low, the alumina much higher, and all my anecdotal experience seems to match that!
I first tried to 'tune' my early QQs to heat oil to the 400's F or lower, by tuning cup temps to be in the 400's, but that never satisfied me or made much vapor until I bumped the cup temps to over 500F. Just cuz the cup is 520F doesn't mean the oil instantly reaches anywhere near that temp, however, especially with airflow, movement, swirling, etc. and poor thermal conductivity of quartz.
Contrast to my trusty V3 donuts, and there is a much smaller temp differential between the donut surface temp and the oil temp. Oil touching an alumina donut feels like it may be only 5-15F cooler than the hot donut itself. Oil swirling on the quartz cup feels like its' vapor is at least 60-100F cooler than the quartz crucible heating it.
We have to get a reading with a thermocouple coated in hot molten oil to really know for sure.
So if you're heating your cup to a mere 350-360F, you may not even be heating your oil enough to even vape much thc, but mostly just to break it down and loosen up some terps into your air stream?
But you've always been a low-temp guy, even with the V2.5 / V3, and that's one of the best things about TC mods and compatible attys, their ability to adapt to a variety of user preferences.
Seems like you're rapidly getting a feel for how the heating on the QQ works in the real world. It's quite separated from the little computerized brains of our mods since they can't really know what the actual temp of the quartz cup is at. We aren't "controlling the resistance Ω" of our quartz cups. But we can still control the heat pretty well with judgement, technique, and good settings on our mods.
Since you already own the evics and picos that support it, I see no reason not to just go ahead and install AF already. Unless you're strictly a mac guy and don't feel like hacking with some work-around interface to install it?
The TC implementation is far superior over stock, and the degree of control over so many parameters and options over your mod are much appreciated by someone who likes control over small details like you. Yes, you get PI control (no D) but it works fine without the D. Myevic is still there for your VTC mini if you must have "the D"
I haven't tried one of those chips yet, but I'm well aware of the superior hardware components and DC-DC signal on the DNA mods. If you sample the opinion on the AF forums (a subjective group, yes) you'll see mixed opinions with many leaning towards the superior software of AF being able to match or even exceed the functionality of new DNA mods even?
I'd have to really put the time & effort into the DNA myself to find out, but I see little incentive so far when I can usually buy 2-4 AF-compatible mods of similar size / power specs at the cost of buying a single DNA-chipped mod. And the cheap AF mods work fine for me.
I've been hearing about this replay mode though, how much better could that really be for the QQ over a well-set TCR or TFR mode?
Like if you just "hold down the button" on replay mode, for say, even 20-30 seconds, even after rods & cup are at temp, it will hold steady cup temps? Even with or without airflow? Unless the new software is doing something completely new I can't imagine, I would expect cup temps on the quartz to continue to rise, even if very slowly, if power continues to be applied in replay mode, or any mode.
With plain TCR mode on my wismec RX gen3 dual (current QQ mod) I can hold the power down for up to 30 seconds or more (initially at the start of a load) with no over-heating, but eventually I must left off. If replay mode is simply holding down a target coil Ω of your choosing without telling you a temperature or anything, and trying to maintain that, the cup can still get hotter, right?
Also, do DNA mods have PI / PID control? I've been trying to figure that out for a long time, can't seem to find that thanks (not that I've found QQ to benefit much from PID)
Good work, you'll find that on mods with a 1-999 TCR range, #s in the range of 220-240 will allow the ceramic rods to heat the apparent surface temp of the quartz cup to be approximately the same temp as what you see on the screen, after a 15-30 second warm up period, depending on your settings. It can even hold that heat for a while, with the button being pressed down continuously, but you'll find the cup will eventually overheat if you have the button held down continuously for a prolonged time, even with TC operation working well.
I'm sure you set your IR themometer to 0.93 to get the best reading, far from the 0.65 you probably had it set to when you last looked at your ceramic donuts or crucibles? That might just be close enough to the default 0.95 to get a usable reading.
Of course you know the IR gun is a 'rough' measurement, but better than nothing at least. To be truly precise and granular, you need to get a high-resolution, hi-heat FLIR. Check out some of @FMSQ's old posts to see some cool pics.
Also, I must say, it seems that you are using MUCH lower temps than most people prefer. If I was trying to vape that low temp on my QQ, I would expect only flavor and little clouds or satisfaction at all.
Your mindfulness of how cannabinoids and terpenoids can thermally break down and how delicate and precious they are is well taken, but I think you're overlooking a key point of thizzics in your quest for vape precision:
the thermal conductivity of quartz (or various materials)
The thermal conductivity of quartz is MUCH lower than alumina ceramic!
Looking through that article or other data, trying to see what kind of quartz is in our QQ, what kind of alumina is in our donuts, trying to narrow it down to see the exact conductivity of the materials seems moot, because all the quartz are pretty low, the alumina much higher, and all my anecdotal experience seems to match that!
I first tried to 'tune' my early QQs to heat oil to the 400's F or lower, by tuning cup temps to be in the 400's, but that never satisfied me or made much vapor until I bumped the cup temps to over 500F. Just cuz the cup is 520F doesn't mean the oil instantly reaches anywhere near that temp, however, especially with airflow, movement, swirling, etc. and poor thermal conductivity of quartz.
Contrast to my trusty V3 donuts, and there is a much smaller temp differential between the donut surface temp and the oil temp. Oil touching an alumina donut feels like it may be only 5-15F cooler than the hot donut itself. Oil swirling on the quartz cup feels like its' vapor is at least 60-100F cooler than the quartz crucible heating it.
We have to get a reading with a thermocouple coated in hot molten oil to really know for sure.
So if you're heating your cup to a mere 350-360F, you may not even be heating your oil enough to even vape much thc, but mostly just to break it down and loosen up some terps into your air stream?
But you've always been a low-temp guy, even with the V2.5 / V3, and that's one of the best things about TC mods and compatible attys, their ability to adapt to a variety of user preferences.
Seems like you're rapidly getting a feel for how the heating on the QQ works in the real world. It's quite separated from the little computerized brains of our mods since they can't really know what the actual temp of the quartz cup is at. We aren't "controlling the resistance Ω" of our quartz cups. But we can still control the heat pretty well with judgement, technique, and good settings on our mods.
Since you already own the evics and picos that support it, I see no reason not to just go ahead and install AF already. Unless you're strictly a mac guy and don't feel like hacking with some work-around interface to install it?
The TC implementation is far superior over stock, and the degree of control over so many parameters and options over your mod are much appreciated by someone who likes control over small details like you. Yes, you get PI control (no D) but it works fine without the D. Myevic is still there for your VTC mini if you must have "the D"
I haven't tried one of those chips yet, but I'm well aware of the superior hardware components and DC-DC signal on the DNA mods. If you sample the opinion on the AF forums (a subjective group, yes) you'll see mixed opinions with many leaning towards the superior software of AF being able to match or even exceed the functionality of new DNA mods even?
I'd have to really put the time & effort into the DNA myself to find out, but I see little incentive so far when I can usually buy 2-4 AF-compatible mods of similar size / power specs at the cost of buying a single DNA-chipped mod. And the cheap AF mods work fine for me.I've been hearing about this replay mode though, how much better could that really be for the QQ over a well-set TCR or TFR mode?
Like if you just "hold down the button" on replay mode, for say, even 20-30 seconds, even after rods & cup are at temp, it will hold steady cup temps? Even with or without airflow? Unless the new software is doing something completely new I can't imagine, I would expect cup temps on the quartz to continue to rise, even if very slowly, if power continues to be applied in replay mode, or any mode.
With plain TCR mode on my wismec RX gen3 dual (current QQ mod) I can hold the power down for up to 30 seconds or more (initially at the start of a load) with no over-heating, but eventually I must left off. If replay mode is simply holding down a target coil Ω of your choosing without telling you a temperature or anything, and trying to maintain that, the cup can still get hotter, right?
Also, do DNA mods have PI / PID control? I've been trying to figure that out for a long time, can't seem to find that
thanks (not that I've found QQ to benefit much from PID)
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Vape Donkey 650
All vape, no smoke please.
I love your pics fern. The lighting and focus are key. I don't mind seeing the full size pic in your post, but you might have found out that imgur has been feuding with FC
and they don't allow pics to show up in posts "normally" so unless other people are using just the right browser, browser settings, or add-ons, etc, you might want to include the url-address-link of your imgur posts for people to click open in another tab to view them.Or try another service like tinyurl or imgbox
Wow 25w.
Most QQ guys would fall asleep from boredom waiting for their oil to start bubbling @25w.I find it ironic now that Mr. OF, who was once the biggest proponent of the least-watts-possible, slowest warmups with the V2 and V3 (and herb atty), for the sake of being nice on the little donuts to not break them, now seems to prefer and advocate the highest watts possible, 50-60w or so, (enough to glow) when using the QQ?
It's all good, use the settings you like. But I don't think inhaling off red-hot glowing ceramic rods could be better than inhaling from non-glowing heaters? 
Finally to this... I was referring to what is the best material to fill tanks with. You can just as easily take a little blob of such mix and dab it onto your QQ or V3 or banger whatever LAYG you like to vape on. But you can just as easily vape the straight distillate, or HTFSE, separately or mixed, on your QQ.
The reason I like it on tanks is because it will provide natural potency & lubrication to your tank mix and the greatest flavor as well!
It's like 'diluting' good concentrate...with more good concentrates! 
Straight distillate can be too thick for most tanks, small or sub-ohm to work well with. The big smok RBAs that I build will work well with straight distillate as well, but the lowered viscosity and rich flavor added by HTE helps alot
Pure HTE on a tank can be too runny and even too rich in its' tasty terpness.... 
it tends to spit more easily with it's low viscosity, and the delicate terps can break down easily on their own through thermal degradation & oxidation before they even get to be vaped. Adding the thick distillate seems to add "thermal insulation" of some sort to the terps, keeping them fresh & tasty as they wait to get vaped, sitting inside the tank Sorry for the tangents but you pull us every other direction anyways.
Check out the tanks thread to keep us on track over here. I'm still trying to convince Matt to let me help him design a solid tank for concentrates that will use an alumina heater, be top-air, leak proof, with replaceable / RBA coils. The demand for such a vape is so huge and untapped, and all the competition seems to be so clueless and stubborn as to how to make a high-performance small / medium-sized tank for concentrates that actually works. 
Sucks that the early proto for the "vape donkey" tank was such a disappointment... (what SZC sent back to us was NOT what I had drawn up) Hopefully I can convince our guy to take it up again after the jet stream and V4 donut are finished And 70% iso IS better...as an antiseptic!
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@Vape Donkey 650 Yea the AF is a great project! I don't doubt that it can or eventually could outperform the DNA chips; I just haven't had much experience using AF myself. The open source aspect of it is where it shines; constant improvements that aren't specific to new hardware releases.
Using Replay, the cup seems to be fairly stable; I don't get hits hotter than I want, regardless of how long I hold it (but I am using a time-defined cutoff for safety), but I'm starting at a low temp in the first place, so even if it is getting hotter it likely would reach the cutoff before getting hot n hurdy with my setup. I also haven't done any temperature testing with a gun or thermocouple, so I have zero quantitative data on that. I don't think it's too important that it maintains a max temp when holding for a long period; I think the most important thing is that you get a consistent output from the device so you can fine-tune your technique to get your ideal experience. I see no reason an equally enjoyable and consistent experience can't be achieved with AF or any other TCR solution.
I'm fairly certain the DNA chips do not have PID control. For more detailed info on Replay and other things, you might want to check out their official forum - The users that have much more experience with and knowledge of the DNA chips than I do, and might be able to give better answers.
Also, good point about thermal properties. There's no reason the same design couldn't eventually be implemented with another material.
Using Replay, the cup seems to be fairly stable; I don't get hits hotter than I want, regardless of how long I hold it (but I am using a time-defined cutoff for safety), but I'm starting at a low temp in the first place, so even if it is getting hotter it likely would reach the cutoff before getting hot n hurdy with my setup. I also haven't done any temperature testing with a gun or thermocouple, so I have zero quantitative data on that. I don't think it's too important that it maintains a max temp when holding for a long period; I think the most important thing is that you get a consistent output from the device so you can fine-tune your technique to get your ideal experience. I see no reason an equally enjoyable and consistent experience can't be achieved with AF or any other TCR solution.
I'm fairly certain the DNA chips do not have PID control. For more detailed info on Replay and other things, you might want to check out their official forum - The users that have much more experience with and knowledge of the DNA chips than I do, and might be able to give better answers.
Also, good point about thermal properties. There's no reason the same design couldn't eventually be implemented with another material.
I will test the double downward tube this month. But I already asked tonight if they could make another prototype with tubes that will allow for a spiral which would eliminate splashing more.Yo, Matt @divinetribe ! He's back and lookin' good.
One detail on the GonG. If the tubelets point straight down at the cup, it has to splash if there's enough oil to go around. On the standard one tubelet cap I've been drawing very slowly and it's OK, but it's on small loads. I've also tried raising the cap to the 1st o-ring on the heat sink base so the incoming air doesn't blow right at the oil.
How about pointing the tubelets in the GonG more sideways above the cup in a rotary to create a vape vortex
Does the donut heat as much as two rods?
Whoops double post. !!!!Yo, Matt @divinetribe ! He's back and lookin' good.
One detail on the GonG. If the tubelets point straight down at the cup, it has to splash if there's enough oil to go around. On the standard one tubelet cap I've been drawing very slowly and it's OK, but it's on small loads. I've also tried raising the cap to the 1st o-ring on the heat sink base so the incoming air doesn't blow right at the oil.
How about pointing the tubelets in the GonG more sideways above the cup in a rotary to create a vape vortex
Does the donut heat as much as two rods?
I just asked if we could have t I just asked we could have the mouthpiece he mouthpiece tubes come more from the sides to create a whirlwind effect.
fernand
Well-Known Member
Oh, wow, I come back and there's all this CREATIVITY. Wonderful.
@Vape Donkey 650 : yes. I'll have to do the thermocouple in oil, one of these days.
The rig is working OK as it is.
The gun's E is set to 85, the last time I calibrated with a thermocouple that seemed like a usable compromise setting.
I'm held together with rubber bands. Blood pressure meds, prostate meds, anti-inflammatories, a dozen supplements including Nootropics, etc etc etc. Etc. So I make improvements gradually, aiming for the long haul, and I need what's left of my head.
I'd given up on cannabis several times, long story, this time it's looking far more promising. In addition to clean concentrates, we can get relatively high purity D9-THC, D8-THC, CBD, terpenes, and the QQ is good enough to vape test mixes of the components.
On the Pico, with a fully zen reverent attitude, and attention to detail, it's surprisingly stable with the QQ. I dream of truly correct temp control at the cup, but I think it would require more sensors. Has anyone seen a TC setup with e.g. a thermocouple feedback input?
The 25 watts ramp-up was a bit low, 30 is good. What I'm aiming for is minimal overshoot, I'd rather wait a few seconds more. After a few draws at temp, the residue tastes like dregs, it mops up like I'd expect, it's comparable to gently working a 4mm banger, so I think I'm getting the TC that I need.
@Vape Donkey 650 : yes. I'll have to do the thermocouple in oil, one of these days.
The rig is working OK as it is.
The gun's E is set to 85, the last time I calibrated with a thermocouple that seemed like a usable compromise setting.
I'm held together with rubber bands. Blood pressure meds, prostate meds, anti-inflammatories, a dozen supplements including Nootropics, etc etc etc. Etc. So I make improvements gradually, aiming for the long haul, and I need what's left of my head.
I'd given up on cannabis several times, long story, this time it's looking far more promising. In addition to clean concentrates, we can get relatively high purity D9-THC, D8-THC, CBD, terpenes, and the QQ is good enough to vape test mixes of the components.
On the Pico, with a fully zen reverent attitude, and attention to detail, it's surprisingly stable with the QQ. I dream of truly correct temp control at the cup, but I think it would require more sensors. Has anyone seen a TC setup with e.g. a thermocouple feedback input?
The 25 watts ramp-up was a bit low, 30 is good. What I'm aiming for is minimal overshoot, I'd rather wait a few seconds more. After a few draws at temp, the residue tastes like dregs, it mops up like I'd expect, it's comparable to gently working a 4mm banger, so I think I'm getting the TC that I need.
fernand
Well-Known Member
Lookin forward ... @divinetribe
SO, does anyone really know someone who REALLY knows flow
dynamics and has been designing bridges that don't collapse in the
wind and all that, so we can get some more ideas?
It's entirely by accident, but my e-bay ceramic 2.5-like units work so
well with a cup insert because the air inlets are just above the cup,
so it creates a lil' tornado above it and sucks that vapor right into da
mouthpiece without splashing oil and without cooling the cup directly.
It should be possible to have them make several GonGs with
different hole and tubelet positions to try?
SO, does anyone really know someone who REALLY knows flow
dynamics and has been designing bridges that don't collapse in the
wind and all that, so we can get some more ideas?
It's entirely by accident, but my e-bay ceramic 2.5-like units work so
well with a cup insert because the air inlets are just above the cup,
so it creates a lil' tornado above it and sucks that vapor right into da
mouthpiece without splashing oil and without cooling the cup directly.
It should be possible to have them make several GonGs with
different hole and tubelet positions to try?