So if we want we can just swap out the new cup for the v1?
I will try the new setup for a week or two before I decide to do this.
What box mods are you using?
Divine Tribe atty's
- Thread starter divinetribe
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So if we want we can just swap out the new cup for the v1?
I will try the new setup for a week or two before I decide to do this.
What box mods are you using?
OF
Well-Known Member
I have the luxury of having two working units (borrowing an upgrade kit I haven't delivered.....) so I took the cup off a working OG to compare (putting it in an upgraded base). First big surprise: The resistance went back up to .28 again??? Sunny Beaches, the new heaters are a different value! As individuals they read less than the old ones...... I doubt it's aging, we would have noticed it before?
So, IMO, the lower resistance of the new base isn't real. The old heaters read higher there, and the new ones lower than old on old bases. Not a lot, maybe 10% at most, and not critical since we deliver power (the mod just delivers slightly more current at slightly lower voltage, the power, product of the two, remains the same).
I managed to break a lead off one of the new ones in all the back and forth and wishing to keep them balanced (so one side doesn't heat faster/more than the other) I'm running at .28 Ohms on OG heaters (.278 give or take).
Now, don't an "A/B test" (one version in each hand, loaded and set the same), there is a definite advantage to the OG cups with their thin bases with my technique. It's faster (and more predictable) to get to the first hit, and easier to keep making vapor adding just enough power without overshooting. It could well be different for other techniques, but I'm not sure exactly how. Fast response is a plus, generally. You can't take a true sports car, make it heavier then compensate with more motor power to get the same 'weight to power ratio'? Just heating the thicker glass more doesn't fix it.
The new base is a big plus I think. The screws are now stronger, bigger in diameter and coarser thread (more surface there). They mangle the leads much less than the smaller screws in the round bottom slot. The 'floating' (hot) contact is much improved. The insulator keeps stuff right were it should be. And the heat is definitely conducted away better without the restriction where the HS was in the OG unit. The metal part stays cooler and the mod body gets warmer faster.
I think I follow the dab tool comment: You melt the goods off the tool by cup heat, then slap the cover on and enjoy? I 'bump' the heat up to an indicated 250F (then cut power), enough to melt stuff solidly in place but not enough to make vapor. I then put the cap on, fiddle around some then start the session, so I think I'm avoiding that concern?
The base upgrade is a big step forward, I don't see any advantage/disadvantage to the resistance change but think the heaters should be matched since they're in parallel. But for myself, I'm sticking with the OG bowls for now.
Make no mistake, I very much recommend the new version. In fact have plans to supply a couple of lucky friends with 'em. For me, while cosmetics are nice, it's 'function over form'. While the OG cups are available, they'll be doing the duty for this happy camper.
OF
huffmybrd
Well-Known Member
I'm actually enjoying the thicker base of the cup, since the walls get hotter faster then the oil tends to rise up them slightly putting it in line with the air tube and cutting down on accidental burnt oil on the base of the cup due to over heating. I've been able to use some lower grade crumble and not leave any black/burnt crap on the cup with the v2, where as with the v1 the cup would have a black center after a few sessions.
huffmybrd
Well-Known Member
Tcr: 235 35w 540F
huffmybrd
Well-Known Member
Yeppers, on my rx2 21700
OF
Well-Known Member
I'm still using Matt's original 'tune'. Ni mode (TCR), 310F, 55W. Heats in about 10 seconds, then you have to cut the power back manually. VW won't work for me since hitting it changes the heat a lot. IMO there's no way to 'close the loop' that is set it and forget about it like with say V3. Which is why it's important to 'know' V3 first I think. Matt was right there too.
Obviously it's not 310F in there (it's glowing hot.....) but the settings give useful control. Nor is it really TCR, all we're doing it using that to set the power delivered to the heaters to control their temperature to some safe, uniform level. A bit like pressing the slanted pedal in your car rather than letting cruse control do it?
Anyway, many ways to get there, but you have to know what you're looking for? Like Captain Jack Sparrow's island that none can find 'lest they've been there.......
OF
Obviously it's not 310F in there (it's glowing hot.....) but the settings give useful control. Nor is it really TCR, all we're doing it using that to set the power delivered to the heaters to control their temperature to some safe, uniform level. A bit like pressing the slanted pedal in your car rather than letting cruse control do it?
Anyway, many ways to get there, but you have to know what you're looking for? Like Captain Jack Sparrow's island that none can find 'lest they've been there.......
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
No. I hold it until I 'make temperature' (and the mod cuts back power), which takes about ten seconds. Then I drop power and pulse it back on as needed. Generally holding it until it reaches 310F again each time. If production sags, more heat. But I 'coast' on the heat in the glass and heaters still working it's way to the load.
OF
ray_b
Well-Known Member
Hi Folks,
I've been using the Gen 2 DC Dry Herb Atomizer for about a week and I really like it. I like it enough that I ordered a back up.
I'm using a medium Santa Cruz Shredder to prepare the herb and it comes out chunky and fluffy. I have no problems with smaller pieces coming through the mouthpiece. I'm still working out how firmly to pack the bowl, medium to light-medium works well and this uses around 0.12-0.14 g of herb.
I'm using a Vaporesso Revenger box mod and it works great. Centered 510 connector, TC/TCR mode works perfectly, good battery life, software to customize the power curve (pc only, installs in linux using WINE but SOL for a driver), and it easily slips in and out of pants pockets. The construction is such that the plastic (ABS?) frame isolates the board and batteries from the heat of the Gen 2 DC atty.
I started with the settings suggested by Matt: TCR=300, 33w @ 370f. These setting worked well but heat up was kind of slow, especially to first hit from cold, so now I'm using 36w and heat up is quicker. I plan to play around with power curve and see if I can get a bit faster heat up. I start at 370f and gradually raise the temp. I've gone as high as 440f, trying to see what it takes to scorch the herb, and I did get a small amount of scorching.
This is is my first battery powered vape and I'm digging it. This set up works for me as a session vape or an on demand vape. Starting with a full bowl I can get 2-3 separate sessions out of it depending on puffs per session. This will make a great out and about vape for me.
I'm still getting the hang of using the Gen 2 DC atty with a water piece. In the photo I'm using an 18 mm medium SonG from Delta 3D Studios to connect to an FC-MOD base. It works okay, just have to make sure not to bump it too hard.
I've been using the Gen 2 DC Dry Herb Atomizer for about a week and I really like it. I like it enough that I ordered a back up.
I'm using a medium Santa Cruz Shredder to prepare the herb and it comes out chunky and fluffy. I have no problems with smaller pieces coming through the mouthpiece. I'm still working out how firmly to pack the bowl, medium to light-medium works well and this uses around 0.12-0.14 g of herb.
I'm using a Vaporesso Revenger box mod and it works great. Centered 510 connector, TC/TCR mode works perfectly, good battery life, software to customize the power curve (pc only, installs in linux using WINE but SOL for a driver), and it easily slips in and out of pants pockets. The construction is such that the plastic (ABS?) frame isolates the board and batteries from the heat of the Gen 2 DC atty.
I started with the settings suggested by Matt: TCR=300, 33w @ 370f. These setting worked well but heat up was kind of slow, especially to first hit from cold, so now I'm using 36w and heat up is quicker. I plan to play around with power curve and see if I can get a bit faster heat up. I start at 370f and gradually raise the temp. I've gone as high as 440f, trying to see what it takes to scorch the herb, and I did get a small amount of scorching.
This is is my first battery powered vape and I'm digging it. This set up works for me as a session vape or an on demand vape. Starting with a full bowl I can get 2-3 separate sessions out of it depending on puffs per session. This will make a great out and about vape for me.
I'm still getting the hang of using the Gen 2 DC atty with a water piece. In the photo I'm using an 18 mm medium SonG from Delta 3D Studios to connect to an FC-MOD base. It works okay, just have to make sure not to bump it too hard.
OF
Well-Known Member
It's actually a standard feature, all the mods I own do it. Put the mod in 'standby' ('sleep') with five quick presses, then hold both down and up buttons down for a couple of seconds, the screen 'comes on' inverted (or restored). Doing the same two button hold when 'running' locks and unlocks the keyboard, enabling or disabling temperature changes to avoid 'accidents'.
This feature (inverting the display) is common across many makers (Joytech, ISmoke, and so on). The may have copied each other, but in the end it's really smart......this way they don't need a special model to sell to the Australian and New Zelander market?
OF
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OF
Well-Known Member
Makes sense if you think about it. To an Engineer, left to right is the same at top to bottom? Each is a 180 degree rotation (not 90). Nothing can change the shape of the display, so unless it's square to start......
The mods I have that only have 2 lines of display, like say Pico, of course do this (left to right). This makes it 'right' for reading when upright in your left or right hand? A nice feature, even very modest vapes like CFC have it since it's a feature that 'is only programing'.
Anyway, nice feature, not always well supported in the documentation/instructions.
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
ray_b
Well-Known Member
Yeah, it's pretty slick. Good to hear the feature is common.
On the Revenger you flip the display by holding down + and - at the same time for 2 sec. There's no standby on this mod, it's on or off. Startup is just under 2 secs and shutdown about 3 secs. The front buttons can be locked but not the fire button.
OF
Well-Known Member
Actually there is no off. Think about it. If it's off, how does it recognize button presses to turn on? Minimum current draw, but you can still measure it. It's using power.
Such things only look like they're off, they're really in standby. Display off, minimum use of power to scan the keys, keep the clock on time if it has one, but it's still alive or it wouldn't 'see' you press those two buttons to turn the display over?
OF
Megaton
Well-Known Member
Had the first go of my DC G2 on my dna mod last night. Exact same power+ tcr settings, with a medium 5 sec pre heat (no PI on escribe as far as i can tell).
It worked really really well, somehow feels like it cooked my herb more evenly than my rolo, but realistically thats probably more due to me getting my pack/ pull more refined, but it felt like the dna provided the power more smoothely i guess. Having a longer auto shutoff helped too.
Do love this atty! The most stealthy vape i own, in terms of hiding in plain sight, and certainly does the job!
It worked really really well, somehow feels like it cooked my herb more evenly than my rolo, but realistically thats probably more due to me getting my pack/ pull more refined, but it felt like the dna provided the power more smoothely i guess. Having a longer auto shutoff helped too.
Do love this atty! The most stealthy vape i own, in terms of hiding in plain sight, and certainly does the job!
playing around with forced air vaporizing
i was able to seal off the air better on the sai in this link
i was able to seal off the air better on the sai in this link