Discussion in 'E-cig Based Portables' started by divinetribe, Jun 12, 2014.
Any chance you have a link? Really want to be able to use to QQ with one of those style bubblers
It’s the ecube by kanboro tech, this is the bubbler that came with it.
A QQ cleaning suggestion for your consideration? Not that I find much to fault the cotton buds ('q-tips') provided, they work very well, but I seem to be going through them at a surprising rate. Next came a raid on the bathroom supply. I'm sure a common enough tale for now, sure to become more popular as the QQ ownership base grows?
I think the swab's advantage is being absorbent rather than abrasive. That is we can easily 'wipe clean' rather than scrub? Other materials that will 'wick away' the residue (like say cotton cloth) would work.
So will paper (with some care).......
Yes, as in our old friend who comes in rolls of those oh, so useful four inch squares. Specifically I'm using Angel Soft as it's handy, but any brand should work with a premium for multi ply and softness (both of which should favor absorbency). Avoid the free stuff in Government building rest rooms.
Now to the origami part, it's a bit complex to describe but easy to do and fast. Lay a single square out on the deck 'diamond style', that is rotated so the corners are at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. Fold the 3 o'clock corner over 1/4 so that the tip is on the center line making a 'squished down' pentagon that's thicker on the right. Now fold bottom over top (putting 6 on top of 12), then top over bottom making a long rectangle, thicker on the right raged on the left. Then again, bottom over top, top over bottom so you end up with a very thin rectangle (just the right size to fit the bowl....) that's thicker on the end.
It does a bang up job of blotting stuff up, and twisting it will wipe the walls clean even if it collapses into a screw shape a bit. Very fast and neat. Really 'digs into' the corner at the bottom of the bowl (where swabs have some troubles?).
Then I unfold the last two folds (making it an inch or so wide again) and fold the 'messy end' (say 3/4 of an inch over then fold the lot one time as before (not twice). This gives a wide, clean pad (the messy stuff is inside) you can wipe the inside of the MP with before discarding (recycling?) the TP piece. IMO you've got your money's worth from it by then.
And it's a 100% renewable resource! Very green.........
Regards to all. Looks to be a great weekend here, like Spring or even early Summer?
I've done a similar, albeit much less elaborate thing involving a toilet paper square and a toothpick. I found the non-textured viva brand paper towels also work quite well in this configuration
Small world, I started with a small bamboo skewer with a squared off end. Not far removed from a toothpick. That's when I realized scrubbing wasn't a factor and the 'origami TP' idea came up.
I just did it again a bit ago after a tiny bit (3 or so modest hits). Took a few seconds to fold. Fold a corner then 'in half' four times in a row. And the trick of undoing the last two folds, folding the dirty end over then replacing one fold (so it's a pad, as thick and twice as wide) which is ideal to wipe the inside of the MP using your finger to back the pad. All the way up and around the air input tube by rolling the MP over a time or two. If you want to go nuts you can then fold the 'rabbit ears' on the other end and then use that to clean the very top of the MP. Best to not let anyone see you do it, though.........
Paper towel is another candidate, but caution is advised due to the heat. Some have plastic or other fibers included for 'scrubbing strength' and printing inks can be an issue. I don't know that brand, but have had/seen problems with heat and some solvents in the past. Pure paper fiber S/B fine? Great with a drop of ISO for all kinds of little jobs? I keep ISO in one of the 'Gorilla drop bottles' like the e-cig guys use to get a drop at a time as needed.
Good stuff. Got me thinking of another little ball, just so I can clean it again of course......
Regards to all.
@OF and @Bad Ocelot i have also been experimenting with paper (tp and pt) for swabbing donuts. this came from necessity as i snuck away to a unpopular restroom for a quick dab. didnt have any cotton swabs, and like OF, im not liking how fast im going through them. so there i was on the throne and needed a swab. the tp available in this facility was the cheap government type that OF warns about above. fortunately for me it worked very well. in fact id be willing to bet that the cheap tp may be better than the nicer stuff. the nicer stuff is too soft and its fibers come off getting stuck to any residual oil that may be on the walls of the V3. not an issue with the QQ i woildnt think. anyway the cheap stuff does not come apart as easily, because it isnt very soft, and still absorbs well. and because its not soft it retains its shape when swabbing. i take two square and fold them on top of each other. then i basically roll them into a long cylinder. like a cigarette. then i bend that in half. you can use both ends if needed. it works well.
im still not terribly excited about this method either though as i dont want to be walking around saturday night with a pocket full if tp or cotton swabs. i would like to see a tool similar to the one that comes with the V3 and QQ, but instead of being a scooper the end would have some sort of clamp or something to hold some cotton. similar to the idea of using wooden skewers with tp. then you could carry a small stack of cotton squares. and they mount into the tool, you swab, and discard the square from the tool.
also thought about something like a hankerchief (spell? lol) so that we arent disposing all the time. but then youd have to walk around with swabbed filled cloth. and would be hard to clean. idk. surely there is a better way.
Fun idea. Perhaps using some epoxy to attach a small alligator clip to the other end?
Then again, if you carry a skewer (or wood swab shaft?) and a ball of cotton you can easily make cotton buds on the fly. There's no glue in q-tips, the cotton fibers are just 'spun on':
Click to play YouTube Video
I think the fingernail polish and fancy jewelry is optional, I've never needed it. If you wind it loose enough you can catch it with your thumbnail and strip the head off the shaft in one shot. While there were (short) factory swabs and q-tips all around, I 'grew up' in labs where you wound your own on longer shafts. Once a common (and expected) skill in such places. Years later I worked on Electron Microscopes. The JEOL (Japanese company that makes nearly half the total EMs in use) techs would wind their own from Japanese cotton in funny little packages, they claimed for purity. In the super high vacuum needed in some places, a literally 'microscopic' bit of oil or other organic compound left behind will foul the vacuum fatally, although it might take a few days to determine that's the problem. Very serious about being clean, those guys, and they too 'roll their own'.
oh good call! i have some alligator clips that have short plastic tabs on them. i could easily just use the clip as the tool. they are about 2” long and should work well.
i like the rolling of ones own swabs as well. i assume after the swab has been used and is full of reclaim that it should still be pretty easy to take off...?
Great idea about the DIY Qtip. This will work great for me, as I have been regularly using the pointy end of a toothpick to load my V3 and other atty's.
Yep, sorry I wasn't clearer about it. If you 'do it right' you can catch the skinny end of the wrap with a thumbnail and pull the stick out.
Key to making that work is to not have the first few twists real tight, just enough to 'grab'. After a layer of loose wrap you can tighten up and get a very firm bud, but one that's not too well tied onto the stick?
Another tip is to be sure the end of the stick is smooth. Commercial wrapping machines often scar or otherwise distort the ends (sometimes by sloppy cuts?) to aid in grabbing on fast and hard, we don't want that. If you're familiar with capstan winches (where the rope is wrapped a few times around the spinning drum and pulled snug to 'grab the drum' and get pulled in) like are used to pull cruse ships full of drunks and potential drunks to the dock you get the idea. This is a reason I favor bamboo over wood, the finish is much smoother.
Besides recovery, unwrapping the little sods to get your stick back is not planning ahead now is it? Messy, too. Trust me on this detail......
Regards to all.
This bubbler would be the perfect extension for the quartz quest - good work @tylerj55
Mod screw bubbler from vapeartist.ca
I've been enjoying my QQ quite a bit now that the flu has gone somewhere else.....
I'm sure others use it differently, going for clouds and all, but I'm finding it a treat if there's something tasty to feed it. Which means I've been digging through the 'leftovers' I'd stashed away for just such an adventure like this. QQ, being very clean each time, is just the ticket for working up from the cool side much as you might on Vapman? That is, using Matt's settings ('301F on Ni TCR, 55 Watts) it runs to the top, hits limit and cuts back the current to hold temperature in about 10 seconds. I drop power at that point, give it a few seconds to conduct the heat in and sip away. In no hurry it might be half a minute or more before I again heat to 310 (indicated) and sip again. Probably subconsciously adding or subtracting a bit on cutting the power, which is common on VM for instance.
While others might take it all in one go, I might take half a dozen smaller hits spaced out. Which, of course, really hammers battery life. I'm running a couple dual cell mods (Cuboid and VTC Dual) and some new Sony VTC5As for a solid, no sweat, 2500 mAh. I'm running 'at about half ratings', stuff is nice an cool inside. But, while others might get more sessions/loads I'm happy with the 10 or 12 I'm getting really. I'm running the 'MyEvic' SW, which allows battery display in % (after entering battery type), so I 'know' that 73% means 'at least 7.3 sessions'.
Recharging in the mod is possible, but is slow and discouraged by the mod makers and the E-cig Hard Corps, favoring the faster 'balance charging' in an external charger. But, and I know this is trivial, that means the mod forgets what time it is as I swap packs? If I plug the USB in, I can then swap the charged cells in and move on, but that means a hot USB port that could instead charge in the unit.......
So, anyway, I'm a couple dozen loads into the adventure, maybe 3? 30 is probably a safe number, time say 5 reheats per, that's close to 200 cycles with only a single 'failure to light and run'. I think I unscrewed a bit twisting the MP off 'the wrong way'. Tightening the QQ back on the heatsink got it first try.
Good stuff, for sure. Not for everyone.
Regards to all.
On-board charging test chart.
Just got the QQ. Gotta read back up on page 136 for the troubleshooting and other videos just to get an idea of what I am getting into before I start playing!
My hero! Enjoy the reading, good stuff there.
First issue is you need a lot of power, you might need a new/more capable mod? IMO "75 Watt" units are marginal when we need 50 or more Watts for much longer than the e-cig ever do. In single cell mods (like say the Mini or Pico) you're restricted to a few top end 18650s that can supply the current needed.
I'd best stop now, just wanted to give a heads up in case you need to order a mod.....for sure don't want to spoil the fun of learning about your new QQ.
Good luck with it, it well worth sorting out I think.
I am working with a C3D1 [dna250] so I should be good there. I also have some home-pressed rosin. Getting the reading in while putting the little ones down and then I will get to the real fun.
I sure am glad guys like you and plenty others have given so much information and advice in this thread. It should be fool proof by the time I catch up on the last 7 or 8 pages.
I think we need a taller cup! I actually really like the diameter of the cup, but I think a little more height would help protect the load. A little metal ring at the top or a mesh lid might help with splatter. I feel like so far I have had to dial back on my draw a lot to avoid splatter or even sending the concentrate over the walls. I need to dial the TC in better and I think trying Ti or even SS might be a better option for me. Not sure yet but I know I can't set my own TCR on my mod because I dont know how to in escribe. I have been getting .28-.34 ohms so I will try and tighten things up to see if I can get a better hold in the .26-.28 range. I have a k-type thermal couple at home so maybe I can do some temp tests to get a better feel for where I really am.
Anyway...I have tried the Source quartz Nails and I really like this QQ design much better. I would love to elaborate a bunch, but it really comes down to one thing for both sizes of Source quartz nails I own.
The 10mm is too short at only 5 or 6 mm so your looking for a hot mess and lots of waste due to splatter. I also think the Orb is janky and allows to much airflow which interrupts vapor production.
The 15mm is too wide of a diameter but the wall height has been increased significantly. Unfortunately this cup dry fires a lot because the large diameter so taste suffers greatly and so does the vapor experience considering your high temp conduction vaping/almost combusting the lipids and such that get stuck on the bottom of the cup while the liquid runs for the walls.
Even though the liquid runs for the walls in the QQ I still get good vapor and can see the concentrate falling back down the walls or clinging to the edges but vapor is created without a harsh dry fire on the floor. So far, I really like the QQ.
Wow! That's sure much removed from my use. I sip away without a serious chance of blowing anything anywhere but up the spout as vapor. But I can see how, if a guy blew enough air down the slanted tube with more in the pot it could get festive. IMO this, the ability to suit well a wide spectrum of use, is a characteristic of a great vape. Not that some great vapes aren't picky. Did I say that right? Some great vapes are very narrow about their use, not flexible like others? But, in general, a great vape should suit a wide variety of users as well as changing tastes of a single guy or gal?
I think the ring idea has possibilities, as I said before, in confining the vapor cloud in the bowl. Some brave soul should investigate that.....know where we might find a volunteer?
As a suggestion in your experiment with power controls, TCR in our case, is to abandon the idea of Ni, Ti, SS and so on settings, they're crutches to real m values, and aren't even that uniform maker to maker it seems. For instance, my new Dual lists Ni as '600-700'. I can manually enter say 650 for m1, m2, or m3 and know for sure exactly what value is being used. Likewise for SS it would be 2-300. Remember, the m value is partner to the temperature. They are linked intimately. An m value of say 650 means 'we expect .65% resistance rise per degree C'. That number, usually listed in tables in PPM (Parts Per Million, 10,000 part for one percent) but the display is shifted over so 6500 PPM shows as 650 (saving a digit). Got that, it's gonna be on the final.........
That means you get exactly the same target in real temperature for a 100 degree C rise at 900 as for a 300C at 300 for an m value. Or really degrees F since that's just another 'scale factor'? No need to change types, just change the temperature? Or keep the temperature setting constant and tweak the m value.......
Anyway, cool insight in 'how the other side lives', thanks much.
Good luck in your experiments, please let us know if you survive?
Quest Upgrade in Test mode starting today Longmada came through, relieved and happy that this is getting resolved in a timely manner.
I just received the second batch prototype and I’ll be testing it during the Chinese spring holiday.
1. heatsink and atomizer are one piece
2. posts no longer have the hole where wires tighten down.
3. switched screws to flathead
4. new insulator for the positive post
5. flame polished quartz cup
I will start production of these new parts as soon as they get back from their holiday and be shipping out upgraded parts to everyone who purchased the first batch. I expect to be able to get things out early March.
if you have not
Email me to get on the list If you purchased from this first batch. I will be sending out a whole new bottom unit. Everything except for the mouthpiece.
Click to play YouTube Video
Outstanding! That first (unexpected) improvement removes several contact points, and with them their unreliability. In practice, no contact is as good as a solid conductor of the same cross sectional area since there are tiny, atomic level, flaws on the surfaces not in the bulk material. This, and more solid contact at the heater leads gives us lower overall resistance as you point out. Very cool, not only is this more reliable, but it's an automatic boost in battery life since that extra resistance is no longer generating heat where we can use it, and don't want it anyway. That approximate 15% drop in resistance (?) means a 15% boost in battery life and cooler units in use under the same conditions. The key is the resistance of the heaters (therefore the heat they generate) remains unchanged.
Ironically, since the mod can only sense total resistance the same power settings (say 55 to 65 Watts?) now needs to be reduced lest too much is delivered to the heaters (rather than elsewhere in the works) so this calls for reducing the power setting. Not 60 any more, but 15% less so the current (and therefore usable power) is still the same...... 50 Watts is more realistic now! A true win/win here, if not all that apparent to casual readers. Our demands on the mods we press into duty, but also the special cells we need to run them at these levels have just been reduced with no loss in performance, in fact a modest improvement on 'self heating' in use. Bully! Bravo Matt!
Sadly, this means scrapping (at his cost) almost all the parts in the original issue. At this point only the MP can be reused 'as is'? And the q-tips. Not even the screwdriver and spare screws are useful in the new design. I guess the heaters are, but doubt we'll be expected to swap them over. Talk about putting your customers first.........
Change 2, back to a more traditional configuration, will no doubt pay off big time in terms of stability. Round bottom slots are fine, even preferred in many cases, for STRANDED wire. With stranded wire this improves the surface area available for contact, not so for solid wires like here. With solid wires, they can shift under use/cycling. Where such shifts are trivial with high strand counts, when there are only 2 strands, they can only contact each other in a single way? So a shift, no matter how minor, is a different contact in total than before. Slots that better capture the wires and prevent shifts are sure to be a big plus in this known problem area IMO.
Finally the fire polish step is an obvious improvement even if it again adds to the cost of production. Such steps aren't like bulk anneals and other treatments, they are very often 'hand operations' and at best 'only tie expensive equipment' with lesser labor needed for the extra steps and inspections. And rejected parts, of course. Again, raising Matt's costs to bring an even better product to market and offering it to us.
This is Valentines Day, IMO no question on how we should feel about our Matt and what he does for us...........
Regards and best wishes to all, and all those good folks we love and share our lives with.
Thanks for the update Matt and looking out for your customers. It really means a lot.
Very well said. It does 'mean a lot'. How sad that this makes him such a standout, that is too bad such support isn't commonplace, but let us celebrate it where we find it.
And support it. And hope the idea spreads? For sure we should hope Matt survives the setback and costs and thrives in his business.......and brings us other exciting offerings to consider.
He takes big risks, including to his young family, to take this path. Much safer "working for the man". Therefore, IMO he deserves big rewards for 'guessing right' and protecting those who trust him. Risk and rewards, the magic of Capitalism. Profit is not evil, it's the motive that gets things done in our system.
So I just got my qq and when I try to fire it my mod either shuts off or displays temp as 000 even though I feel it warming up. It won't sit right in the heatsinc either, it sits crooked and not flush, at the largest the gap is about a mm. I was using a TCR of 400 but see the recommended value on the site is now 225 so I'll try that. Also, I was using it In wattage mode and burnt a load, how should I get the blavk residue off? I can't seem to get the screws to rotate with the included driver either
Sorry you're having troubles. I suggest you stop and try to recover from earlier attempts.
Critical to that is getting the two small screws out so you can remove the heaters from the bowl so you can torch it clean again. There are videos showing both these processes in this thread. The screws seem an important first step?
I'm not sure an m Value of 400 is going to work, and quite sure 225 won't. I'm using Matt's original settings (I think?), the Ni setting at 310. That setting should be around 650. Lowering the m value to (about) 2/3 of that means you need to raise the temperature by the inverse of that, so 50% more at a minimum. 465F would be my starting point. At 225 you'd need to triple the temperature, to 930F, a setting not allowed.
When properly running you should see the heaters 'glowing hot' at temperature, in fact you can see the grid of the deposited heater on the insides of the tubes glowing through, that is the heater glow has a fixed pattern in it.
AFAIK Matt's Ni at 310F works fine for 'everyone', you might start there. If 'everything else is right' it should work for you too, but that 'everything else' having to be right is critical to that.
Anyway, I suggest pulling it down and cleaning it up. Then get the heater/control part working right before you feed it more concentrate? I suspect the strange readings are part of that, but without more information will be very hard to diagnose past that.
Good luck with it.
Is m value another term for TCR? Because it literally says to use a TCR of 225 on the product page for the qq on matts website, "TCR Value 225 using 40w to get to 500°f" I was using 400 because I saw it recommend on Reddit. And yeah the heaters glow when they get to temp. It just gets to hot to fSt in power mode. Thank you for the tips!
Separate names with a comma.