Divine Tribe atty's

[b0]

Are you sure the quartz crucible cup would be for CC, crucible means dry herb for me but maybe I'm wrong. Can't wait for the water tool adaptater for the Gen 2!

Actually I use my Gen 2 with a cheap big VW battery (between 20-25w) cause all my mods are busy and it was a good call cause it heat pretty faster (not sure if it's good for the atty though...).

Not sure, I thought we were waiting for one using a cup like new bangers? Now I'm not sure anymore...

While I wait for my V3, what settings, W or tc you use with it guys? I'm gonna be using an evic mini with arctic fox

 

[Danksta]

I can't fucking wait for this quartz crucible cup atomizer! I know @divinetribe been working double time to get this thing just right for all of us flavor head concentrate enthusiasts!

Same here man, I've been coming here daily hoping to see Matt updated his sig with the link to BUY BUY BUY!!! I get paid this week and really hope he surprises me.

 

[matthend]

@divinetribe I was tossing around the idea of buying a saionara, then just decided to grab a 4 pack of donuts for my V3, but this crucible cup has me drooling in anticipation. Chomping at the bit man!!


Now to all else in here, I am 100% ordering this when it arrives, but now thinking about trying a sai while I wait. Does the Sai really deliver hugely stronger clouds than my DTV3? It seems like the available coils have changed since i last looked at the sai, which one is the good one again?
Thanks and sorry for all the questions!

 

[b0]

@divinetribe


Now to all else in here, I am 100% ordering this when it arrives, but now thinking about trying a sai while I wait. Does the Sai really deliver hugely stronger clouds than my DTV3? It seems like the available coils have changed since i last looked at the sai, which one is the good one again?
Thanks and sorry for all the questions!

This is divine tribe post, if you want to talk about the Sai you should go to his post or create a new one to make a comparison.

 

[Danksta]

Black Friday has passed and no crucible cups link...anticipation is growing more and more each day

 

[b0]

Got my DTv3 and I can only say I love it! Works like a champ with the TCR setting recomended, amazing flavorful hits on the go. The 2 minutes the taxi takes to pick me up from work to home are so much more better now...

 

[nattomoto]

I just purchased a DTv3, and I’m looking to purchase a solid mod. Something small, capable of running arctic fox and something on the newer side of technology. I’m not a complete newb.

I was thinking about a Primo mini.

Any thoughts on the Eleaf Kiya?

 

[invertedisdead]

Evic Basic is great for something truly small, I also like my Primo and find it more comfortable to use than the Basic, but the Basic + Arctic Fox profiles is a killer mini mod.

 

[bizwaxzion]

I just purchased a DTv3, and I’m looking to purchase a solid mod. Something small, capable of running arctic fox and something on the newer side of technology. I’m not a complete newb.

I was thinking about a Primo mini.

Any thoughts on the Eleaf Kiya?

I have vtwo mini, primo mini, wismec mini and a pico. The primo mini is my favorite but the vtwo is also a solid performer.

 

[tennisguru1]

Glad to spread the love. My evic basic is capping out so I ordered a primo mini off fastechh like a week or so ago. It should be delivered within the next few hours actually (funny you asked) I'm looking forward to using it. Can anyone tell me why I should load arctic fox over myevic? I'm currently am using the myevic software and enjoy the 25 second cutoff and am fine with the tc curve.

Was backreading some of these great threads and I bam at the same place now
with my Evic Two Mini, go to MyEvic or Artic Fox?
So what do you prefer onyour mod?

 

[bizwaxzion]

Was backreading some of these great threads and I bam at the same place now
with my Evic Two Mini, go to MyEvic or Artic Fox?
So what do you prefer onyour mod?

I've not run MyEvic because I have some mods that are not supported. I've been very pleased with ArcticFox (other than the 15s cutoff which the developers don't want to increase, but as they say I can just re-press the button) and it supports all the mods I use the DTv3 with. I can maintain one set of profiles that work on all my mods and the PI regulation makes for smooth and accutate power curves. I don't believe that MyEvic is seeing any new development these days while ActicFox is a very active project. With just a single mod - maybe try them both and see which one rings your bell.

 

[tennisguru1]

I've not run MyEvic because I have some mods that are not supported. I've been very pleased with ArcticFox (other than the 15s cutoff which the developers don't want to increase, but as they say I can just re-press the button) and it supports all the mods I use the DTv3 with. I can maintain one set of profiles that work on all my mods and the PI regulation makes for smooth and accutate power curves. I don't believe that MyEvic is seeing any new development these days while ActicFox is a very active project. With just a single mod - maybe try them both and see which one rings your bell.

OK, thx...
I only have the 1 Evic Two Mini & intend to stay with Joytech while I learn more.
I can put both on? I like the idea of 25 second cutoff also

 

[OF]

OK, thx...
I only have the 1 Evic Two Mini & intend to stay with Joytech while I learn more.
I can put both on? I like the idea of 25 second cutoff also

I too run MyEvic on the Mini and Mini II but not of the Primo Mini as it's still not available. I'm there as soon as it is, since I'm very happy with it on other mods (although the real time clock isn't accurate on all of them).

The longer timeout limit is nice, I too dialed it out to 'all the law allows' but think it's really rare when I go past 15 or 20 seconds? The improved display options are also worth the price of admission IMO.

Go for it, you can always load the latest factory firmware over it any time you want? This one's reversible.

OF

 

[tennisguru1]

I too run MyEvic on the Mini and Mini II but not of the Primo Mini as it's still not available. I'm there as soon as it is, since I'm very happy with it on other mods (although the real time clock isn't accurate on all of them).

The longer timeout limit is nice, I too dialed it out to 'all the law allows' but think it's really rare when I go past 15 or 20 seconds? The improved display options are also worth the price of admission IMO.

Go for it, you can always load the latest factory firmware over it any time you want? This one's reversible.

OF

Cool , I was going to get Matt's DT2.5 & Glass Rig attachment, as I am getting by with the Evolve + donuts at TCR 471 20w 0.49ohms locked resistance.
Really interested in the new cup design coming.

Hope it's like my Xvape Vista , but with TCR & donuts along with Quartz.

 

[tennisguru1]

It's confusing for sure, real 'can't tell your players without a program' country. Let's see if we can put some of this chaos in order?

First off, Gen 2 is the herb cart. It looks like this:
http://ineedhemp.com/product/generation-2-dc-ceramic-rebuildable-dry-herb-atomizer/

V3 and 2.5 are concentrate carts. V3 is 'rebuildable' (owners can replace the heaters and do other work), V2.5 is glued together and is a 'one shot' deal. V2.7 is a V2.5 with a different MP.

You can run them a couple of ways. If you go in VW (variable power) you have a problem in that it takes energy (heat) to make vapor meaning when that changes (like you stop hitting as hard) the temperature is going to go up since that energy has to go somewhere. It's a bit like picking a gas peddle position that makes your car go a constant 70 MPH despite winds, up and down hills and so on.

Enter cruse control for your car? TCR is cruse control for vapes. TCR uses a property of most metals to sense temperature (instead of say a thermistor like in Solo). TCR is "Temperature Coefficient of Resistance", a number that describes the change in resistance (in percent) for a given temperature change (typically one degree C). The metal used has an apparent TCR of about 2450 parts per million (1/10,000ths of a percent), about 1/4% per degree C. If we start at say .7 Ohms at 20C and want to go to say 200C we need a 180 degree C rise? So we can expect 180 times .245%, a 44% change give or take. Since it's a positive TC (most metals are positive, some materials are negative (like glasses)). A 44% rise on .7 Ohms is an additional .31 Ohms for a total of 1.01. If you had a mod like the Mini or Basic you can watch this resistance reading change as it heats. This change is 'translated back to degrees' and is displayed as the temperature. That displayed value goes up because the sensed resistance goes up. And it goes up at the rate (% per degree C) you told it to expect by the 'm value' you entered. Change that m value and the displayed temperature changes even though the real temperature is the same. Or, conversely, the real temperature changes even though the displayed one doesn't?

Enter TCR mode. Here the mod uses that resistance change to determine how close it is to the selected temperature, therefore how much power it should deliver. Just like you car feeds fuel to the engine trying to get the driveshaft speed (and therefore car speed) to match the target. When a hill comes along it senses the drop in speed and applies more gas. Thus a 300 HP car can be made to say under the speed limit and keep you ticket free. Likewise, TCR mode can keep the temperature from 'running away' and yet provide 'plenty of power' to get to temperature fast.

Your mod has several preset m values, the one for Ni (which you're using?) is generally in the 600 to 700 range (.6 or .7% per degree C). So the mod will 'run hot' with the right number on the display but since the math is off the actual temperature will be higher by a fair bit. That is it will 'misread' the real temperature. It will work, but you have to frig the temperature selected.

You're allowed 3 custom m values. Use any one of the 3 you want. I put 170 in m1 (for big doughnuts) and 245 in m2 (for everything else). All my mods are set up this way to avoid accidents. Just select the m 'channel' appropriate to the load.

Now to powers. If you remove the controls and put fixed power into the V3 (or 2.5) you either 'never get hot enough' or 'get to good vapor in a reasonable time'. Or worse still go overtemp and cook your oil. And again in this mode if it's the right temperature and you hit it hard it will end up too cold. So we pick a base heat that will reach temperature in a reasonable time (say 5 seconds or so?) without overdriving. You don't slam on the gas when the light turns green, right? Well, maybe if you're young and don't know better, but most of us apply power to get to the speed limit without annoying those behind us or getting a ticket for laying rubber off the line. That's what got me to the power levels I suggest. I ran them up and up until I got to 'temperature limit' after a few seconds (with a lightly loaded bowl, since that heat load can confuse things no end.

So that's the scheme. For the small doughnut you tell the mod to expect a 44% rise, display it as a temperature that makes sense to you and hold that resistance value by controlling the power. Automatically, like cruse control. And we tell it 'apply 12.5 Watts until you reach temperature', not the 75 Watts possible.

Confused enough for a Wednesday night? Great, ready for the test?

Here's a page that describes the same sort of stuff in other terms:
http://guidetovaping.com/2016/07/16/what-is-this-tcr-mode/

OF

No this is something I can understand, thanks for putting it as simple as possible, great example for the me to absorb.

 

[OF]

Cool , I was going to get Matt's DT2.5 & Glass Rig attachment,

You've stumbled on my favorite 'rig'. I know it's kinda sacrilege around here, but I like V2.5 over 2.7 or even (horrors....) V3. Suits 'my style' better I guess. I have no problem not being able to rebuild them since they really are cheap compared to the concentrate it takes to kill them.

My favorite way to use it is with the WT attachment on top of a little bubbler like this one:
https://www.dhgate.com/product/new-small-bong-mini-water-pipe-pocket-glass/190893367.html

This is a fun class, a 'recycler'. That is the smoke/vapor and water both come up the diagonal tube to the upper chamber after bubbling normally in the lager chamber below. That chamber is tapered so it separates the water from the vapor, passing the vapor up to the MP to you and I while returning the water ('recycling') via the link at the bottom of the two chambers. Lots of action, no water.

I found the bend of the factory adapter to be 'not quite right', that is less than 180 degrees, so I had to hold things at an angle until I got smart and heated the tube and bent it OUT a bit so adding a 45 degree adapter on top of the bubbler (paying attention to sizes and genders of course):
https://dg.dhgate.com/buyerordmng/o...rfxproductid=ff8080815b7c9046015b81b7684d2126

Great setup, I use it a lot for a 'few quick hits'. When it gets dirty inside, but bubbler gets fitted with a short piece of tube and plastic funnel and put in the silverware part of the dishwasher. The hot detergent (then rinse) collects in the funnel as the spray arm comes around and slowly drains through the bubbler. Easy and effective.

Regards to all.

OF

 

[tennisguru1]

Many of us are dabbing on silicon carbide surfaces at around 515F right now. You get a much more effective hit from an enail and for several reasons but the two biggest factors are the heater surface area for your concentrates is increased and the heater is already at temp. This makes a huge difference believe it or not. But like you I have been too stubborn to believe there could be much difference from one thing I had plenty of experience with to something I thought I understood but had absolutely no experience with. Luckily I listen and read well and asked the right questions to motivate myself to try what others were saying and I learned quickly how far off I was. You tend to think a pen can substitue an enail...but if I recall you have no enail experience...


As for the DTV3ST2, it does not get crusty. I clean it after every 3 or 4 sessions with a q-tip. I just heat the cup a little, like 3 or 4 seconds and then swab it out making sure not to touch anytging but the cup so I do not have cotton sticking to the V3 base. It is brand new and no crusties to clean after q-tip tech. Dry firing would also do it without getting crusty but thats wasting battery and creating a foul smell during the process so I prefer q-tip tech over dry-firing.

I also just prefer not changing the settings on my device's. I am a consistent and thorough person and I prefer things to be certain ways. The why is of absolutely no matter as I can assure you I am a grown ass adult who puts a lot of consideration into the alternates beforehand and I am very well aware of what I do and don't like. I dont like changing settings just as much as I hate locked doors inside my own house. I actually havr thought about getting a second device for a new Supercritical C02 pen I recieved that I have been trying out lately just because it annoys me to have to change the settings to go back and forth from the C02 cart to the DTV3ST2. Its really a simple process, but I have my preferences as I said. I would, however, imagine you could dry-fire clean the cup much faster by turning up the temperature. So far I have not seen a case where the oil defeats gravity and climbs the walls to go over the top of the cup. It seems it always boils and never gets above the 3/4 full point on the cup walls so everything seems to be staying in the cup as long as I keep the device pretty vertical. I do notice a slower cool down time for the concentrate to restabilize if I need to put the device away in the middle of a session.

Edit: I checked the cup temp and it seems in TC NI mode at 30 watts and 250F max heat the cup quickly goes to 250F and rises over the 15 seconds my Evic Mini Basic Two will let me go to 510F. I checked back to back consecutive hits for up to 3 hits and it never got hotter than 515 so 250F is where Inhave settled as of yesterday. So far I have had very little experience at this lower setting but it seems to be working just fine.

Thanks for that walk down that path, I learned a lot.
One thing is do you think that maybe I have enought
wit Xvape Vista Quartz Enail & Evic Two mini Mod +
Ceramic Donut Attys & assorted inferior attys, lol.

How about what you were saying about surface area
up to temp already , as all my stuffs starts at Zero
with oil shatter distillate waiting to vape temp.
So what I gather is missing is Matt's $140 plus FC
discount for hos Quartz Enail cup & carb cap combo?
Will that give me the new experience that Morty is seeking?

 

[tennisguru1]

Primo Mini does not have a vented/slotted 510 connector. This means it cannot supply airflow to traditional bottom airflow carts (like many prefills or the W9 Trinity for example). This doesn't matter for the DT v3 but just wanted to call it out in case you care. I bought a 510 vented extender to deal with it but this is another part you'll have to source.

It also has a hinged door on the bottom rather than a magnetic cover for the battery compartment. Still holding strong for me but these hinges can be a weak point long term in my experience.

The only plus over the VTC Mini is the ergonomics of the design really. The rounded corners make it feel really nice in your hand.

Otherwise I actually think the older models are better for the reasons stated above.

So glad I went with the Evic Two Mini, it all works so well for all
the reasons you stated & a great readable display.
I did have to use the 510 connector from the Evolve + pen
as it came with none also.
I can use a few spares, where did you get yours please?

 

[ckingflava]

Can anyone screen shot their profile in arctic fox the v2 dry herb atty

 

[2clicker]

has anyone used any DT attys on a DNA chipped device? @Accept... have you done this?

im going to be ordering a donut and cup kit from DT and will be running them in a Vandy Vape Mesh RDA as well as a UWell Rafale X RDA. those will be sitting in top of a DNA75 chipped mod. LavaBox Mini to be exact.

anyway id like to know if anyone has run their DT atty on a DNA device. if so did you use the Ni setting? or create your own custom profile with preheat?

if anyone has done this please post your settings. ill do the same after i get time to experiment with mine.

 

[insideoutman]

thanks matt and fc fam ;D

 

[Vapology]

thanks matt and fc fam ;D

Is this the new Quartz Quest atty from DT?
Edit: No it's just a v3 with hydratube attachment
I want some pictures of the new QQ in black please

 

[DirtyD]

Just got the v 2 dry Herb and the wax buckets great and small. Dry herb attt. Is sick and a big improvement on v 1. Replaceable coils . Way better design on the mp . Smaller bowl, this type of vape = Civilized if you already have a box mod brick battery. As on demand as I got it right now besides my trusty vapcap line up. This rig gives a different hit, you have to ride the button once she's heated up then you're just out there. Love this v2 dry Herb attt. Ride the tiger or burn . Light touch once you get her Going . And breath controls. Cheers. So jazzed and high . D

 

[invertedisdead]

Gen 2 needs a zirconia housing and it will be on point!
This will allow the oven to do its thing without the body and mouthpiece ever becoming uncomfortably hot, that way we can ditch that silicone tip! It's a killer little vape but it could be GREAT.

 

[elmoe420]

@divinetribe The Quartz Quest is looking good! Can you talk more about the heater design? Is this utilizing the same tech as the Longmada Mortar?