David Goldstein's Fritted Disc

agreed. i recently acquired a mobius and while it also stacks just as high, and has insane diffusion, the scrubbing that the fritt achieves is way more intense. a wholly unique experience. more reclaim, but the size of the hits you can take and hold is uncomparable, imo.

I thought this myself but after buying it I do think it's well worth the money. At least with the one I have it's very high quality and certainly hits differently than my Stereo Matrix, Nano Matrix or Steele Concept. I've used each with my Cloud and for dabs. They're all great and I'm certainly glad I bought them all because each one is significantly different than the other.

After cleaning my tube the other day, I accidentilly ripped a fresh ELB dry. It was still really smooth, but had some extra flavor.
I bet I guy ould even handle a dry dab because Da Frit is a natural born scrubber...

Would two frits work? One placed over the other one with some space inbetween? I wonder if that would even work...

that would work. Because sometimes when I fill mine I just fill it to the fritt and the fritt pulls the water through and makes it stay above. But IMHO that would be a crazy amount of diffusion. Just one fritt does the job.

If you like smooth pulls, and excellent diffusion, frits are worth considering, but there are enormous drawbacks. cleaning if not done very frequently is quite difficult. expensive fine abrasive very quickly add up in cost, solvents like dichloromethane are out of the reach of most glass enthusiasts. but more worrisome is the huge drop in efficacy. with better diffusion you encounter more loss of actives, so you get the best diffusion at the cost of efficacy. worth consideration IMHO.
BTW, i'm a chemist, and not a glass head, and for good reasons I believe.

Just curious but would you want to even use an abrasive cleaning agent on a fritted disc I would be a bit worried about eroding some of the glass out of the frit......

I've found just ISO will clean my glass fairly well.
Add iso, shake, repeat a couple of times.

If I need an abrasive, rock salt is pretty cheap (not that I ever really use it, I reclaim my iso)

As for the loss of actives, IMO it's pretty negligible for flower vaping, and relatively minor for dabs.
Plus, since I reclaim my ISO, its not a waste of actives, it's a delay in consuming them...

Honestly, I rekkon you can take the herb further through glass, and you probably extract more actives anyway, so you'd be loosing "bonus" actives.

no, not if you're doing it correctly. the abrasive would need to be small relative to the grains of the frit, in order to properly remove the stuff in the small areas. small particle abrasives are not cheap either. given the solvents that most here have access to, abrasive are practically a necessity and do not, if used properly, create notable damage. I.E. you would not erode glass out of the frit.

fred, rock salt is far to large to effectively abrade the coating inside, possibly plugging the frit spaces. also your idea needs a revision, the longer the path length, the more heat is removed from the vapor, and the more vapor condenses. so the more glass the vapor has to travel through, the more actives will be condensed on the glass.

OO you make it sound like it is extremely hard to clean. It really is not that difficult. You just have to clean it often. I don't use any salt/abrasives and usually just do the following:

1.) Hot water flush for 2 minutes.
2.) An ISO soak and shake for 2 minutes.
3.) Another 2 minutes hot water flush.

That usually makes it clean enough and the frit is usually pretty close to the original shade.

If I want to make it shiny brand new it is pretty simple. I use something called Oxy-Spa Non-Chlorine MPS Shock. Which is essentially Monopersulfate

If I want to use the Monopersulfate I do this:

1.) Hot water flush for 2 minutes.
2.) An ISO soak and shake for 2 minutes.
3.) Sprinkle some MPS on top of the disk.
4.) Fill with hot water just past the disk.
5.) Let it set and oxidize. It is done once it turns clear.
6.) Another 5 minutes hot water flush.

I just make sure to do an extra long soak/flush to make sure I wash out all of the chemicals. It comes out looking brand new.

It really is not that difficult to clean. You just have to keep cleaning it often. If you don't like to clean you pieces much, then the DG is probably not for you.

What needs revision?
IMO any "lost" actives are
1 - minimal to begin with
2 - not actually lost since I reclaim
3 - potentially less than the gain I get from using water filtration.

I get it, I've seen it posted in heaps of glass threads now, THC sticks to glass.
It seems like some people think that you will be loosing a majority of the hit to the glass or something, I just don't get it, I mean seriously, how many actives can you really be loosing per hit?
I would think proper inhaling/exhaling technique would contribute just as much to overall "efficiency" (possibly even moreso) than the small % that sticks to the glass...

[That paragraph was sorta general venting, not necessarily directed at you OO]

I know rock salt is too big to get inside the frits, but my point was that an abrasive is mostly unnecessary for me, I don't even use salt.
I also don't have any worries about salt getting stuck in the frits, I doubt it would happen, but water would easily either flush it out, or dissolve it...

Apologies. Not paying attention, to what I was linking. Deleted.

IMO industrial strength automotive degreasers are not the way to go. Have you read the MSDS?

http://www.clean-rite.com/msds/Purple Power 2010.pdf

ALSO from the company's own literature:

Ahhh that means it leaves behind a residue folks . . .

Weird... I'll check my packaging. I'm mortified I linked that shit. I woke up, hazy, read, posted then went to do dishes.

My apologies!

I really wasn't ready to drop this on FC yet since I am still testing this, but the discussion here has prompted me to publish this info early.

I'm not a research chemist but I read them for recreational purposes. If you really want to understand soil formation and the role of chemistry in cleaning then read this:

http://www.ecologiccleansers.com/essentials.php

A sneak peek into what I am testing right now, this is what the beer & wine folks use (wine folks need to clean lots of heavily soiled lab glass & equipment) its amazing stuff, cleans everything, rinses easily, good for the environment, concentrated powder mixes in your glass, economical, NO shaking . . . just hot water, a little dwell time, then rinse down the drain. Presto, squeaky clean glass.



http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/wp-content/uploads/PBWTech.pdf

http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/wp-content/uploads/PBWMSDS2.pdf

Testing will be moving on to this today:

http://www.ecologiccleansers.com/StraightADataSheet.pdf

http://www.ecologiccleansers.com/Straight-AMSDS.pdf

Upon further investigation, I have weird cross decade events at times. Yes, I am using Purple Power to clean my glassware. However, it is not the same stuff. It is not a degreaser and is specifically meant to clean Pyrex, glass and acrylic. It is manufactured by American Cleaning Systems, Inc. 1-800-420-KUSH.

I posted when I shouldn't have. Had vaped all night, woke up, wtf? Read the thread thru slitted eyes, Google and posted without thinking because I used the same name shit, back in auto shop, during high school, or some other random time in my life.

I'm anal about MSDS and am truly sorry, I linked to that crap. Good looking out, t-dub.

Awesome T Dub looks sweet i am a lazy cleaner i do basically what freddy does (not saying you are lazy FM haha u got like a 1000 pieces of glass to keep clean ) just give my dg a short iso soak and very cautious iron grip shaking to reclaim the majority and get her mostly clean.

Keep us posted T i got a big home brew store next to my shop i almost went in there yesterday to look at cleaning supplies, but since your taking one for the team already i will just sit back and for now

looking forward to the results of your experiment t-dub!

it seems those cleaners are designed primarily for use on metal surfaces, but should be safe for all surfaces. i wonder if there is a possibility that the cleaners could cause some cloudiness in the glass? i would also like to know how effective the cleaners are at removing hard water stains/rings? thanks.

So far the PBW is a home run, I just can't say it is safe on labels yet. These products are formulated to work in hard water and to counteract that, safe for use on glass, in fact Straight-A was designed primarily for use with glass. The 2 products utilize similar cleaning chemistries so the differences will be subtle I think.

thank you slightly medicated for all of the detail, more information is better, and you have enough info to satisfy!

no worries about salt in the frits, it will dissolve with water.
the actives aren't "lost" in the sense that they are sticking to the glass, they are lost in the sense that they are condensed into somewhat large droplets, which i don't believe are capable of the lung-> blood transfer. I suspect these larger (visible) droplets are more likely to condense on the mucous coating of the lungs and not permeate to the blood.

I can only offer anecdotal evidence to this effect, as it seems that the most effect out of the smallest quantity of active substance comes from freebase pipes, like the ubie, which are profoundly effective. I suspect it is because the path length is so short that the vapor doesn't have a large opportunity to condense into droplets in the vape itself. The unfortunate drawback of these is the pain, since the vapor hasn't release its heat of vaporization on the vape's path, it does so into your lungs, which while uncomfortable, still has upsides, extreme effectiveness at doses under a tenth of a gram.

the problem isn't that you are losing it on the glass, the problem is that what makes it into your lungs ends up mostly in your boogers.

unfortunately, I don't have any physical evidence to offer to support my theory, but maybe testing one's mucous for actives may further the point.

for clarification, mucous is water based, and the hydrophobic active droplets would most likely be adsorbed to the mucous surface, never penetrating to the lung tissue. vapor on the other hand should dissolve through, but much of it will still be inevitably lost to the mucous.

i'm replying separately because this deserves a separate post, in fact it deserves its own thread!

great info, also important to note is the part about phosphates, if you are interested in plants and soil, it is important to remember where our resources are coming from and going to.

phosphorous is always a concern, and much of our urine is phosphorous, in actuality urine is one of the most available sources of phosphorous.

it's great fertilizer, but must be diluted, as its nutrient content is too concentrated to use straight without inducing burn.

it would be interesting to see wastewater plants start selling fertilizer from all the phosphate and nitrogen they could remove from human waste.

Anyone know why this is so fucking much?

http://aqualabtechnologies.com/scie...in-jim-dandy-with-colored-frit-disc-perc.html

because it isn't already in pappy's collection?

I was just wondering because if that one is that much then so should mine? Right?