Gear D-nail thread

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
Anyone else been using these "terp pearls" or whatever the kids are calling them these days in their halos? We've been using a couple 5mm sic ball bearings with amazing results. Pretty awesome how fast you can get the ball bearings spinning around the halos too :)
I've been testing out some beads of a very similar material and they do spin around. I'm not sure how much of an improvement it's really making with vaporization efficiency, though. Perhaps the SiC and similar materials cool down pretty quickly as they spin around? I don't seem to really be able to lower my dabbing temps much, if any. 0-5 degree temp drop for equal vapor at equal pull strength? Hard to say. I did a test spin without dabbing any oil in to the dish and launched a hot pearl about a foot and a half out of the dish when I prematurely pulled the cap. Slight divot on the rug...

Waiting for the bead to spin down solves the issue. Total operator error.

But a bigger issue for me:it's more of a pain to clean out the dish after each dab.

Fun, but I'm still on the fence about their effectiveness, overall.
 

MileHighLife

Blower of glass, grower of grass
I've been testing out some beads of a very similar material and they do spin around. I'm not sure how much of an improvement it's really making with vaporization efficiency, though. Perhaps the SiC and similar materials cool down pretty quickly as they spin around? I don't seem to really be able to lower my dabbing temps much, if any. 0-5 degree temp drop for equal vapor at equal pull strength? Hard to say. I did a test spin without dabbing any oil in to the dish and launched a hot pearl about a foot and a half out of the dish when I prematurely pulled the cap. Slight divot on the rug...

Waiting for the bead to spin down solves the issue. Total operator error.

But a bigger issue for me:it's more of a pain to clean out the dish after each dab.

Fun, but I'm still on the fence about their effectiveness, overall.
Yeah, it is a bit more of a pain to clean the dish out but we just push the balls around with the q-tip a little bit and we usualy q-tip each dab anyway so not a huge deal. We're down 50 degrees from 565-595 to 515-540. I thought it was hype but now I believe it has to do with the balls spreading the oil around the dish better than the vortex cap can on it's own. Could be totally off with that but that's the only thing that makes sense to me. I'm actually still on the fence myself at this point as well and still playing around but I am able to get great vaporzation and clouds at lower temps for sure.
 

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
Ive been dabbing high terpene sauces at 475-530 degrees indicated on my 2.0 box without a ball for the past year or more, and haven't been going any lower with one. Only really go below 500 for super harsh live resins. Most of my dabbing with the terp peal in the SiC Halo has been at 500-510 degrees on the PID. The vapor production is a little better at lower temps and I don't have to adjust my cap! I like the beads a LOT better in the Halo than in a quartz banger. My bubble caps don't spin the beads in the banger. Maybe when the Binary Banger drops ill get a 30mm banger cap that will spin a bead.. but with the function of that cap I don't know beads wll be necessary at all!
 

Elbuort19

Well-Known Member
Glass doesn't even get warm now. :love:

2019-02-25%2016.17.46_zps2jdi5ril.jpg
 

StormyPinkness

Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
I've been testing out some beads of a very similar material and they do spin around. I'm not sure how much of an improvement it's really making with vaporization efficiency, though. Perhaps the SiC and similar materials cool down pretty quickly as they spin around? I don't seem to really be able to lower my dabbing temps much, if any. 0-5 degree temp drop for equal vapor at equal pull strength? Hard to say. I did a test spin without dabbing any oil in to the dish and launched a hot pearl about a foot and a half out of the dish when I prematurely pulled the cap. Slight divot on the rug...

Waiting for the bead to spin down solves the issue. Total operator error.

But a bigger issue for me:it's more of a pain to clean out the dish after each dab.

Fun, but I'm still on the fence about their effectiveness, overall.
I feel like my vapor is thicker, I tend to do small low temp dabs in 2 hits and it's made it closer to 1 hit. I hadn't really thought about lowering the temp for some reason even though I did on my quartz banger, I'll need to try lowering it some.

The only negative for me is if I pull to fast I'll get some splashing on the cap and center lug nut. With the dnail cap the seal is perfect and you can get them spinning super fast. Also I agree cleaning is a little trickier, I've had a sphere pop out once or twice and it's scary because they're small and mobile and lava.

It sounds silly, but in a weird way they make it a little more fun for me:
giphy.gif
 

shredder

Well-Known Member
I feel like my vapor is thicker, I tend to do small low temp dabs in 2 hits and it's made it closer to 1 hit. I hadn't really thought about lowering the temp for some reason even though I did on my quartz banger, I'll need to try lowering it some.

The only negative for me is if I pull to fast I'll get some splashing on the cap and center lug nut. With the dnail cap the seal is perfect and you can get them spinning super fast. Also I agree cleaning is a little trickier, I've had a sphere pop out once or twice and it's scary because they're small and mobile and lava.

It sounds silly, but in a weird way they make it a little more fun for me:
giphy.gif



I haven't been on this thread for a while, and now I'm surprised all the new stuff. Balls? Dnail getting their shit together? Sapphire back in play? peeps switching to quartz? Ruby?

All the while I've been using the crap out of my sic dish in my snow cave, blissfully ignorant of the new stuff.

Btw, I'm very sensitive to metals and don't even get a hint of it using my slim series with the sic dish. I think most of the air path gets coated pretty fast anyway.
 

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
I've been using my SiC as well. I have a cracked sapphire which I played with for about a week and concluded that the SiC was more of a vapor producer at the same dish temps. The flavor was different, sort of like quartz is different, but I just go for the most vapor I can get at the lower temps. Those pearls look really sweet, I have some 6mm for quartz, but they are too big =/ TBH, I am a little afraid of them flying out which is why I haven't sought one out. My session is generally 2 big hits. I ain't really complaining about the flavor or smoothness in any of my setups.
 

shredder

Well-Known Member
I've been using my SiC as well. I have a cracked sapphire which I played with for about a week and concluded that the SiC was more of a vapor producer at the same dish temps. The flavor was different, sort of like quartz is different, but I just go for the most vapor I can get at the lower temps. Those pearls look really sweet, I have some 6mm for quartz, but they are too big =/ TBH, I am a little afraid of them flying out which is why I haven't sought one out. My session is generally 2 big hits. I ain't really complaining about the flavor or smoothness in any of my setups.

I've been happy with my rig too. My next big quest, my holy grail, is to find a portable with this kind of taste and performance. I've been playing with a saionara on a box mod, but it's no dnail.
 

StormyPinkness

Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
You can't clean the sapphire halo with a wet q-tip right? You could potentially damage it that way? That's my biggest worry because I 100% know I'll do that at some point when I'm distracted.

Edit: Fixed a typo.
 

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
You can't clean the sapphire halo with a wet q-tip right? You could potentially damage it that way? That's my biggest worry because I 100% know I'll do that at some point when I'm distracted.

Edit: Fixed a typo.

Since mine's already cracked, I've wet swabbed it numerous times and the crack hasn't changed. I know this isin't very helpful but it's my experience. My enail is set at 580F, dish temps around 445-460F.
 

pxl_jockey

Just a dude
@Fcuk-Combustion there is a setting you will want to adjust when running a 150watt coil.

Here is info on how to find the setting and what to set it to:

To adjust Auber RDK-300 controller for any 150watt coil. Hold down the knob for 5 seconds, the small power indicator light will start blinking. Turn the knob clockwise and scroll to 166 that is the access code(if you overshoot turn the knob counterclockwise to go down) then push the knob down once to and you will come to P-125, press the knob again to get to I-60, and press again to D-10, press the knob once more and you will come to OTH-40, This is the setting you will want to change from 40 to 67 for all 150watt coils. Press the knob one more time for auto shutoff and set to desired minutes and then press the knob one final time to exit.

Once you change the above. It should help improve the performance as it is set to 100 watt by default

So Monsieur 710, I finally got around to running the simple procedure you provide above. All of the settings were just as you said except for OTH-40; mine was set to OTH-100(!) so I reduced it to 67. Also on my unit, there’s a Celsius/Fahrenheit setting before the auto shutoff setting.

I was just about to say my coil seems to behave pretty much the same, but my temps are rock solid and not fluctuating the ~1-2 degrees that it did previously. Once again you are the man with a plan! :peace:
 

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
Do you really need a clear carb cap?
My understanding is the balls work with dnail's current cap.

Great that their not sitting on their thumbs tho.

Don't care about it being clear.

What I do care about is a steady temp at my nail, and heat transfer from SiC Halo's to carb caps! I have written about pre heating carb caps and desiring a less heat-sucking cap several times in this thread, and elsewhere.

Titanium is a fairly heat-conductive material. Applying the titanium carb cap to an even more heat conductive material (silicon carbide, and / or sapphire) causes very noticeable swings in temperature with most enail controllers. Certainly with most homebrew boxes, Dnail 1.3, etc. I even bought a used 2.0 box to get the fastest possible responding PID and I still notice a temp dip if I don't preheat my cap.

Using a carb cap made of material which doesn't transfer heat as readily will decrease the rate of heat transferred to that cap and thusly provide a more stable dish temperature.

That's why I've been requesting a quartz carb cap for quite a long time. I am beyond stoked to see them R&Ding such a cap.

Will buy.

Edit: Also I'd never seen these before, anyone tried them?

http://www.d-nail.com/accessories/dish-inserts/d-nail-siliconnitride-comet

Edit: Edit: Sapphire halos back in stock... VAS rising...

I was given the chance to test the Silicon Nitride comets out. They work well with the current 2.0 cap. I prefer a single bead at a time for fastest speeds and most agitation. They do promote a little thicker hit at a given temperature.
 
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maxymods

Well-Known Member
Thinking about getting a dnail to go along with my 710 coil banger and flowerpot. Remember they had some shipping issues and more. Curious if anybody could let me know if that has gotten better? Also curious if any flat coil works? gonna get one from 710coils as dnails is too expensive. Thanks everybody :)
 

Baron23

Well-Known Member
Thinking about getting a dnail to go along with my 710 coil banger and flowerpot. Remember they had some shipping issues and more. Curious if anybody could let me know if that has gotten better? Also curious if any flat coil works? gonna get one from 710coils as dnails is too expensive. Thanks everybody :)
It seems that their stocking level has gotten better but they are still out of stock on some ridiculous items like the Slim Line Coil Retainer Nut....come on, D-nail.

You cannot configure a slim line with a Halo without this retainer nut.

I have no idea what's really going on with them.

I do still like my slim line, SiC Halo from D-nail and agree with @SamuraiSam that the Ti carb cap needs a pre-heat but it only takes a few seconds. I pop it on the Halo, see them temp drop (dunno, maybe 15 degrees??), and when the temp starts coming back up, its time to dab. Works for me.

Cheers
 

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
Been using a little ruby sphere from 710gems in my dnail sic halo for about the past week, very cool! I love how I dont need to twist the carb cap all around, I do twirl it a a little but the sphere seems to do most of the work. I've also dropped my controller temp from 580F to 560F. Carb cap doesn't look any dirtier than normal with that sphere running laps around the halo. Thanks @invertedisdead super awesome! Flavor is also more pronounced at these lower temps, really getting multiple benefits and it's a cheap add-on. The only complaint is having a sphere get lost in the carpet, I need to comb through the corner of my room to find one that got away :lol:
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Been using a little ruby sphere from 710gems in my dnail sic halo for about the past week, very cool! I love how I dont need to twist the carb cap all around, I do twirl it a a little but the sphere seems to do most of the work. I've also dropped my controller temp from 580F to 560F. Carb cap doesn't look any dirtier than normal with that sphere running laps around the halo. Thanks @invertedisdead super awesome! Flavor is also more pronounced at these lower temps, really getting multiple benefits and it's a cheap add-on. The only complaint is having a sphere get lost in the carpet, I need to comb through the corner of my room to find one that got away :lol:



:D:D:D the best thing I've found for sending out a search party is a LED flashlight. The ruby/sapphire have a bright glow in direct LED light, it's the only way I've been able to find the lost tribe! :lol:
 

Ferrusbuelker

Well-Known Member
I have the PB quartz carb cap and love it that combined with the sapphire comets and halo has brought my d-nail back into heavy rotation. Not sure $160 but that’s just for the Pukinbeagle ones. They are selling preorders for ones without the PB handle for $100. For some reason the quartz makes a difference probably what @SamuraiSam was referring drawing less heat so able to maintain a more stable dish temp. I get a really nice dense hit which also clears the dish faster. Can do about 490 but wouldn’t go lower and still prefer above 500.

One little tip make sure not too much residue builds up in the cap as it goes more fully over the halo there is potential for it to get stuck especially if you twist the cap a lot you could loosen the nut and twist the halo off. You don’t want to do that trust me.
 
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