Discussion in 'Concentrates' started by PhotoRider, Oct 30, 2013.
New mini rig on the cheap 14mm male joint seals perfect on the hive base. Flavor.
Holy crap, that's a huge dab!
Yup, some ak live resin...tell Rhoda I love her...
My d-nail could NEVER handle anything near that large... just puddles.
Did you ever clarify if you were carb capping??
My SiC D nail dish handles dabs that size beautifully. It's like five pulls down at an indicated 510-530 and more like three up at an indicated 630 like you guys are dabbing at. The D-nail carb cap is essential for best performance,
but a particular size of 'hash jar' can work in a pinch. It seals well, but doesn't direct airflow into the channel, agitating the oils for best vapor production.
I have one of those jars... you're right @SamuraiSam perfect fit
... Yes I did. In previous posts.
Using the dnail carb cap.
It goes on as fast as possible. I also will cover/feather the hole with a qtip for better production. (per others suggestions in previous pages.)
But I remain unimpressed. I need to get some real dish temp readings... nail is cranked way the fuck up.
That is one immaculately kept heater retaining nut on your slim series brother!
I also once realized that the same hash jars worked as a cap when I forgot my d-nail carb once! Saved my ass that time . As you say though, the d-nail carb is definitely the best cap to use on the halos
@FlyingLow have you tried to use another coil and heater? I suspect that your coil has issues bro.
Check to see if one side of your coil is less-flat than the other. My D-nail coil makes contact with the innermost portion of the coil when flipped one way (winding is clockwise) and doesnt' perform as well as when its flipped over (winding is counter-clockwise) then it makes good contact with the SiC dish and seems to perform much better.)
Does the indicated temperature on your box drop quickly when you are inhaling and carb- capping, or does it seem to maintain about the same temperature?
It has to be your coil or heater, as the SiC dish is just the vapor medium, so your inconsistencies must be taking place further down the line.
Thanks for the thoughts....
The coil is making good contact in all but the very outter edge. Seems flat, i put it in vice to be sure.
I have big temp drops, typically 40-60 degrees after a 10 second pull on the cap.
I never seem to get below 698F if set for 710F after a 4-5 rip session. Cheap dhgate nail and coil, dnail sic halo, slim base, and carb cap. I use dabs straight out of the fridge, so they're always about 38F when applied to the nail.
OK it sounds like heat is transferring just fine nail to coil, and the thermocouple is doing its job measuring the temperature. The PID controller is not set properly to supply more juice to the coil to keep the temps where they need to be for good vapor production. Unfortunately PID tuning for e-nail coils is a tricky proposition. It took me several weeks to improve my Auber PID with SiC, but I got it to a place where I'm real happy with how it works.
If you feel like messin' around: https://www.reddit.com/r/enail/comments/2vgaih/what_do_pid_setting_change_in_context_of_an_enail/
old post I made before programming my nail http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/cheap-chinese-e-nail-thread.21236/page-3#post-1014382
*edit: Write down your settings along the way and make notes of performance so you can easily go back to initial settings, or something that was working well, as some times changes can go in the wrong direction.
I can start at 785* and pull it down to 698* with a long 2 draws.
In my last email to customer support, they claim drops of 75* is normal and left it at that. I am left a bit unsatisfied seeing puddles when i pull my cap... even small rice does not vape completely.
From everyone else's claims, i continue to believe my unit does not perform as well as it should. And it certainly does not perform as well as others experience.
At $500-700, i did not intend to have to program shit. Can't dnail do this at the factory? Can i send out back to dnail to program for me? I don't want to fuck with it.
I do apologize for spacing on your setup, if you have a D nail box no PID programming should be needed.
If you can use a K type thermocouple you could touch your heater when it is up to temp according to the box, and see if the actual heater is (or is very close to) the temperature it says it is on your control station. Otherwise I would be trying to send it back to D nail for testing too.
FWIW I do not ever completely vaporize the oils applied to my SiC dish, even a half grain of rice amount could leave a slight film which I q-tip up. But a very high temperature like you are using, should.
I received this in Sunday and found my Dnail SiC Halo to be running around 530F when my Auber RDK200 shows a coil temp reading of 645 using an Auberins flat coil. I was adjusting to a sweet spot by taste and performance prior to receiving this Thermo and had been down to 615 on the coil temp reading which is a dish temp of 500 and I was struggling to finish hits without a little pooling. I think 630-645 is the sweet spot with my setup. This might be helpful to you @Baron23 Do you run a Auber flat coil or something else with your RDK300 and SiC Halo?
Yeah man @FlyingLow I'd be getting in contact with d-nail. The temp drop on the dial may be normal, but the incomplete vaporization is not normal. I vaporize with my SiC halo until no more visible vapor comes through my rig and that typically only takes up to 5 draws even at the lower temps I use. You should be able to achieve this at lower temps than what you're using. IMO, your coil and the thermocouple inside may have an issue. It is very unlikely that a d-nail controller would have issues, I own 4 and have never seen any problems with 24/7 usage for years on end.
It is absolutely crucial that you try a different coil and controller to isolate the issue. If you don't have the hardware to do this (fair enough, that shit is expensive lol), I'd send it back to d-nail to figure out what's up. Don't complain to them about the temp drop on the dial, since that is not necessarily abnormal. What is most abnormal about your reports from where I sit (as the longest term SiC user on FC!), is the seeming lack of vaporization and significant pooling that your report.
Thankyou all for the guidance, it is very well received.
Just ordered thermocouple so that i can provide nonsubjective information in the next correspondence.
I do not have any friends with the equipment to really isolate the issue, so i am hoping the thermocouple does lend a clue... it would save much time and frustration to know where to look
Hi - my thermo is supposed to arrive today but thanks for the input!!
Yeah, man....I have been running the Halo at about 650 F also to try to keep pooling down.
My intention is to compare SiC surface temps and corresponding coil temps between the D-nail and the Liger 2.0 I have.
As I said, I run the Liger at 590 and it vapes a good size dab with no pooling (I do q-tip so yeah...there is residue but with the Halo I can see it running from side to side as I tip the rig). What I don't know if what temp the dab surface is at. I have been running the D-nail at 650 coil temp and even there it seems a bit cooler at the dab surface than my Liger at 590.
I run the D-nail with a D-nail flat coil and an Auber 300.
Also as said, I care about matching dab surface temps and really don't worry about coil temps....but I do what to know for both devices that I'm at the dab temp I want.
Just seems that the Halo, with its exposed SiC and lower mass, just sheds heat (or doesn't conduct heat as effectively to the dab surface) a bit more than the Liger.
P.S. - now delivery of my thermo isn't until Thurs...will report back when I have some data.
One thought I've had knowing how well SiC transfers heat to other materials, and feeling how hot the carb cap gets, I think the D nail cap may take away a significant amount of heat from the dish and exacerbate the temps dropping from concentrate and inhalation. That's actually one reason I've tried the hash jars. But they're more cumbersome to use and don't agitate the oils like the D-nail cap.
What I really want is a borosilicate carb cap. I don't need threading for a dabber- just give me a nub to hold- and don't need any of the solid 'steps' inside like the Ti cap has. Just a good seal on the Halo. And a water jet cut, angled hole, maybe a tiny bit smaller than the current Ti cap. *dreams*
I actually tried to reply to this a while ago saying something similar to Sam above.
What you are observing in difference to the Liger is that the halo is a SiC dish with no surrounding titanium. SiC is actually losing so much heat to the cap precisely because SiC is such a good heat conductor. It is simply getting the heat straight into the cap real quick.
You have the best idea here in determining what your preferred temp is on your existing nail using a thermocouple. This way, you can get matching temps at the vaporization surface between your halo and Liger which has gotta be better for achieving the results you already prefer! Great thinking my friend, of course, this is no surprise for me, I've always had much respect for your thoughts
All of this. Seriously, I could have written this word for word myself. It is scary how alike we are often thinking bro!
The d-nail cap functions better, but I've got a boro ball cap for my liger custom made with an angled, small diameter hole that feeds into a larger hole going into the dish to prevent leaking vapor between rips. It works a treat for not taking so much heat from the dish and for keeping the heat off of the handle! Something like that for the halo would be wonderful.
Still TBH, the d-nail 2.0 cap IMO is one titanium cap I'll happily continue using, the flow and vaporization is epic. I wish we could get a smaller intake hole as you say though, that would be so beneficial for speed of vaporization, cloud production and preventing leakage between hits. Currently, I always qtip over the entire air hole on top of my d-nail 2.0 cap when I use it to achieve a similar effect lol
Can anyone recomend a link to a cheap dabber that fits in place of the forked dabber? I like the forked dabber and use it regularly but I prefer keeping the carb cap and dabber seperate. I have been using a qtip but I want something a little more rigid and that doesnt have cotton fibres all over it.
Either of the Highly Educated threaded dabbers will work - their "standard carb cap" models, not the ParTiCap dabbers. And any other dabbers threaded for compatibility with HE cap threading will work too- that's probably most threaded dabbers out there...
FWIW, I own both the Highly Educated dabbers; their ball point, and flat tip in non-threaded form, and they're some of my favorite dabbers to use. They cost the same ($20) as the D-Nail handle/cap, and there's quite a thicker 'handle' to hold with the D-nail handle/dabber. The forked dabber is a real nice design that I wish was available in a non-threaded form too., I like to wipe off my dabber immediately after each dab, so no reclaim oils contaminate the next jar of sauce I dip into. The D-nail dabber is great at heating up for an easy slide-off when held in place against the wall, and its shape has been carefully designed to minimize lost oil on the dabber- less residue remains than with any other dabber I own.
One downside to the combo cap and dabber with these real runny terp sauces, I end up trying to wipe off the fork immediately after capping to prevent oils dripping down the stem. PITA to keep the carb cap fully seated while gently wiping upwards- thats why I prefer the separate dabber as well. Forget to wipe the fork just once, oil drips down leading to sticky fingers on ya next dab. No bueno!
Separate names with a comma.