herbivore21
Well-Known Member
All of this is exactly what came to mind for me too.
Gear D-nail thread
- Thread starter PhotoRider
- Start date
ensabbahnur
Hash Vacuum
I also think it sounds like you're trying it without the proper cap.
Also for cleaning the Sic Halo, i forget who it was but someone posted the secret in this thread somewhere, a simple 10min soak in distilled water, and a wipe with a qtip or paper towel, 99.99% to new every single time no matter how rugged it looks, no scrubbing needed at all, it just works.
StormyPinkness
Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
According to the d-nail graph the coil should be at 675 to get the dish at to 600. I have a pid/coil from dhgate and I have to turn it up to around 755. To to the d-nail sapphire insert I have to turn it up almost 200 degrees higher than in the graph recommends. Having something to tell me the temp of the dish helped a lot, I'd recommend getting a thermometer with a thermocouple. I tried an ir gun first but the temp readings were waaaaaay off with it. It bugged me to buy it because I won't use it for anything else, but it's really nice knowing exactly what temp the dish is. I got this one for $22 off amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFYEPVQ
I also use the q-tip cleaning trick I learned from @SamuraiSam and feel like it keeps it pretty clean. I actually think that works super well, a really hassle free way to just keep it clean. Though the dish does look darker and slicker, definitely doesn't go back to looking brand new. It doesn't look like carbonized burned black dirty crap either though so I haven't worried about it. I'm super new with the d-nail stuff though so take what I saw with a grain of salt.
Baron23
Well-Known Member
@StormyPinkness and @FlyingLow - I have a Liger 2.0 with SiC and have been loving it and running it at 580 - 590 with my barrel coil on there very tightly. Now, I rather favor the technique shown by @ccchase420 on his vids, one dab in and one long pull out. Maybe a clean up if the dab was too big, but basically hit the dab in a single pull.
I just got my D-nail SlimLine with SiC Halo. A friend says he runs his about 545 - 550 so that's where I started. Like @FlyingLow, I'm getting pen like vapor (well, a real good pen, but still) and getting 5-7 draws (with the D-nail cap on) and when I look in there, the shatter is just pooled.
So, I cranked it up in temp. At 650 I nailed it. Now, with a bit of experimentation I believe I can roll this back a bit....certainly to 625 (I hope) but it would be nice to run even cooler. I need to run at lower heat and let it get good and heat soaked to really do comparisons. Upping the temp and hitting it a short bit later, as I did with my first (and only) session with it, isn't really accurate.
I did notice that if I draw harder, I definitely got better vapor as their carb cap seems to work well and can generate some low pressure in there if drawn upon vigorously.
As far as cleaning...dunno, I q-tip...ran 4 dabs through it so far....its clean as a whistle.
I just got my D-nail SlimLine with SiC Halo. A friend says he runs his about 545 - 550 so that's where I started. Like @FlyingLow, I'm getting pen like vapor (well, a real good pen, but still) and getting 5-7 draws (with the D-nail cap on) and when I look in there, the shatter is just pooled.
So, I cranked it up in temp. At 650 I nailed it. Now, with a bit of experimentation I believe I can roll this back a bit....certainly to 625 (I hope) but it would be nice to run even cooler. I need to run at lower heat and let it get good and heat soaked to really do comparisons. Upping the temp and hitting it a short bit later, as I did with my first (and only) session with it, isn't really accurate.
I did notice that if I draw harder, I definitely got better vapor as their carb cap seems to work well and can generate some low pressure in there if drawn upon vigorously.
As far as cleaning...dunno, I q-tip...ran 4 dabs through it so far....its clean as a whistle.
shredder
Well-Known Member
I've been using my sic halo at 520-530 (dnail coil, tag controler) lately with fresh squeezed terpene rich rosin. (jesus og, gorilla glue, green crack, super silver haze) I finish in 3-4 long hits, in a largish pipe, with just a little left for cleaning. But I use small amounts less than a bb size. I weighed a typical load at .03 gr. Maybe size and the type of extract matters?
I'm using Samurai Sams cleaning method with good success. Not sure if the dish is darker, but the machining lines are still prominate, and it looks pretty darn clean, and maybe more important it still tastes great.
I'm using Samurai Sams cleaning method with good success. Not sure if the dish is darker, but the machining lines are still prominate, and it looks pretty darn clean, and maybe more important it still tastes great.
Baron23
Well-Known Member
Well, no luck in rolling the temp back down. Tried...heat sinked the crap out of it, but its just a simple fact that my SiC Halo just needs a higher coil temp than my Liger to get what appears to be equal dab surface temp. Makes sense, the Halo is exposed, the Liger insert is surrounded by Ti and has a greater amount of Ti to act as heat sink.
Just to make it clear, my Slimline Halo is assembled this manner
top Halo retaining nut
SiC Halo
Flat coil
Heater retaining nut
Heat sink
Base retaining nut
Base
D-nail carb cap and fork handle
All from D-nail and used with an Auber RDK-300
What I have found is that when I try to operate at about 650 F coil temp or below, yeah...I get a few nice hits, but can't really milk the rig (yeah, bb to rice grain size...I don't do globs) the way I do with the Liger at 580 or so.
Also, vapor quits at a point and there is quite a bit of oil reclaim to q-tip out.
At 675, I got milk...quite a differential from Liger coil temp of 585.
I know that many quite like to get multiple low temp draws off of a dab, but I'm more into a dab = one thick draw (with maybe a little clean up draw if you can stand the taste LOL).
To be clear, I agree completely with those who say that coil temp is inconsequential. Its the temp on the dab surface that counts and right now the only way I have to judge that is by comparison of vaporization performance at a given coil temp (but I am order a k-type thermo that will go high enough and I plan to determine real dab surface temps for both the Liger and the D-nail at given coil settings).
It makes some sense that the D-nail would need a higher input temp as the Halo is completely exposed to ambient air and should probably shed heat faster than the Liger whose insert is surrounded by a Ti bucket and supported by a larger heat sink of Ti (by the by, I really don't know why D-nail calls their body a heat sink and then puts fins on it...I should think a solid with less surface area per amount of mass would make a better heat sink, yeah?)
So, right now I'm running 65-685 on the D-nail.
Anybody care to share their coil temps that they are using for a SiC Halo (not an insert...that would be different).
Cheers
Just to make it clear, my Slimline Halo is assembled this manner
top Halo retaining nut
SiC Halo
Flat coil
Heater retaining nut
Heat sink
Base retaining nut
Base
D-nail carb cap and fork handle
All from D-nail and used with an Auber RDK-300
What I have found is that when I try to operate at about 650 F coil temp or below, yeah...I get a few nice hits, but can't really milk the rig (yeah, bb to rice grain size...I don't do globs) the way I do with the Liger at 580 or so.
Also, vapor quits at a point and there is quite a bit of oil reclaim to q-tip out.
At 675, I got milk...quite a differential from Liger coil temp of 585.
I know that many quite like to get multiple low temp draws off of a dab, but I'm more into a dab = one thick draw (with maybe a little clean up draw if you can stand the taste LOL).
To be clear, I agree completely with those who say that coil temp is inconsequential. Its the temp on the dab surface that counts and right now the only way I have to judge that is by comparison of vaporization performance at a given coil temp (but I am order a k-type thermo that will go high enough and I plan to determine real dab surface temps for both the Liger and the D-nail at given coil settings).
It makes some sense that the D-nail would need a higher input temp as the Halo is completely exposed to ambient air and should probably shed heat faster than the Liger whose insert is surrounded by a Ti bucket and supported by a larger heat sink of Ti (by the by, I really don't know why D-nail calls their body a heat sink and then puts fins on it...I should think a solid with less surface area per amount of mass would make a better heat sink, yeah?)
So, right now I'm running 65-685 on the D-nail.
Anybody care to share their coil temps that they are using for a SiC Halo (not an insert...that would be different).
Cheers
StormyPinkness
Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
For me to get around 600 degrees on the sic dish for my tag I run at 725 and for my d-nail at 755. It's a bigger dish though so that makes sense I guess.
Also like you said I think a thermometer with a k-type thermocouple on it to measure the dish temp is really worth it. I got one on amazon for $20 that's worked really well. You can tell exactly what temp it is and check for any uneven heating. It did bug me a little to buy it knowing I'd never use it for anything else though. Especially after buying an ir gun that ended up being useless.
Baron23
Well-Known Member
Thanks...yeah, I have found a pretty nice one for $30 and intend to use it to document dab surface temp on the Liger (at 585 F on the controller) and the D-nail Halo. Otherwise, I'm just guessing based on the way the dab boils off.
What I want is equivalent dab surface temp....no matter what the coil TC says.
Cheers
nosmoking
Just so Dab HAppy!
I am down to 615 on my RDK-200 with the SiC Halo but it does pool a little if I run out of breathe and dont complete the longer hit and like you I tend to want to take 1 good big hit and maybe a mini hit to clear anything I may have left. These results were much easier at 625 and especially higher like the temp range you mention (650-685) but I sometimes struggle at lower temps like the 615 I have been riding for the past couple of weeks. I too wasted money on a IR gun since they dont read SIC correctly and I have a grilling thermo that goes up to 454 F and I have watched it climb all the way until the thermo stops working but I would like to get a thermo with thermocouple like Stormy linked the other day. I wish I could find one cheaper tho
Baron23
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the feedback!!
As to thermometers....cheaper than what? On Amazon, search for thermocouple thermometers and you will find some in the $22 - 35 range. I have one in my cart....just need a few minutes to look it over a bit more but I like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XC6T8PX/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AOAGQ0Q8LEYOS&psc=1
Cheers
Cannabis Connoisseur
I LOVE LIFE
I'm running my DNail with Liger 30mm & Sapphire at a coil temp of 490° I wonder what my Dish temp is? I have another coil set-up I'm about to implement I believe will drop the temp by another °20
Monsoon
Well-Known Member
You can't get an accurate reading with a temp gun, the target area is too small and the emmisivity is variable depending on how dirty the dish is.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Yup, this. K-type thermocouples that are designed for use at nail temps are a must!
Your measurements are only ever as reliable as your tools and their appropriateness for the task at hand.
FlyingLow
Team NO SLEEP!
sooooo what the hell is k thermocouples? Can you post a link to a good one?
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple#Type_K
That gives a brief explainer. You should always purchase a thermocouple which is designed to work at the temp range that you are measuring. Not all k-type thermocouples will be compatible with nail temps so choose accordingly.
FlyingLow
Team NO SLEEP!
I still don't understand how it works.
Is it just a pair of wires I put on opposite sides of the dish?
What else do I need to display the temp reading or do they plug into a CPU USB? What powers the couple?
How do I mount these if solder will melt at these temps?
Does thermocouple mount permanently?
Could you please post a pic of how it is all setup on your nail? I just see wires come up in searches but I have not found these details.
Is it just a pair of wires I put on opposite sides of the dish?
What else do I need to display the temp reading or do they plug into a CPU USB? What powers the couple?
How do I mount these if solder will melt at these temps?
Does thermocouple mount permanently?
Could you please post a pic of how it is all setup on your nail? I just see wires come up in searches but I have not found these details.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
I cannot post pics of my nail setup man, sorry. A k-type thermocouple is a metal probe that plugs into a digital multimeter. You touch the metal probe on the thing whose temp you want to measure, it tells you the reading on the multi-meter.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
That is a tricky question, thermocouples can be bought individually from $5 (they can be much more expensive depending on specs). Multimeters can be bought for very widely varied prices from $10 upwards. You may need to spend slightly more than this. Beware that a lot of multimeters I've seen on amazon that say they are compatible with very high temps are misleading, because the thermocouple that is packaged and sold with the multimeter is not actually compatible with high temps, only the multi-meter is when used with compatible high temp thermocouples. This would mean that you would need to buy an additional thermocouple that will connect with your multimeter and be safe to measure the temps you seek to measure.That explains much! Thank you!
Last question for now... I promise
How much should one anticipate spending on a reliable couple?
You would be better to consult a local radioshack type of place, specify you want a cheap thermocouple setup to measure temps up to ~1000f. This should ensure that you can find a device that will suit your needs. Buying online will require more thorough research to ensure that your thermocouple AND your multimeter are able to measure temps that are high enough for your purposes.
StormyPinkness
Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
I got one for $20 on amazon after first buying a useless ir gun and it's worked great so far. Ignore the dirty glass...
Although I should be using one of these:
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Baron23
Well-Known Member
Uhhhhsssshhh....that would be difficult.
Forget the IR guns....the link I posted takes you to Amazon...pick the K-type thermocouple thermometer of your choice from about $20 and up. Be sure to check the temp range of the TC probe you get.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_6_11?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=k+type+thermometer&sprefix=k+type+ther,aps,236&crid=1EORWK3SLYX2I
I ordered this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XC6T8PX/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AOAGQ0Q8LEYOS&psc=1
and this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU29Q3Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oooops, now I see the rest of the conversation you had with @herbivore21...so, never mind LOL
Oh, and by the by, a K type thermocouple is what is in pretty much all enail coils and its what reports coil temp to the controller.
nosmoking
Just so Dab HAppy!
But not impossible. I bought this one cause I like orange...hopefully the K type thermocouple is the correct one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016UDAR9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1