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CCA Liger banger V3.0

alittledabwilldoya'

Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
Man I am so glad either way to see that the liger caps are compatible with the HE/D-nail dabber tool threadings! :D I love the new style two prong d-nail dabber tip and a lot of the Liger dabbers look a little unwieldy for my needs (I have some symptoms that make this a problem, this probably not be the case for other users who do not share my medical symptoms!).

That is a nice dabber.
http://www.d-nail.com/accessories/carb-caps-dabbers/d-nail-forked-dabber

I almost bought one of those when they came out, never did ... maybe now I'll try one.
It might be easier to flip than the contoured Liger handle.

It looks like it has a wider base than the ball-point and chisel tip HE dabbers so it would likely keep the variable airflow washer pinned down.

PS The lightest and easiest to flip Liger V3 carbcap/dabber combo is the Stormcell cap with the contoured handle.

:leaf:
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
That is a nice dabber.
http://www.d-nail.com/accessories/carb-caps-dabbers/d-nail-forked-dabber

I almost bought one of those when they came out, never did ... maybe now I'll try one.
It might be easier to flip than the contoured Liger handle.

It looks like it has a wider base than the ball-point and chisel tip HE dabbers so it would likely keep the variable airflow washer pinned down.

PS The lightest and easiest to flip Liger V3 carbcap/dabber combo is the Stormcell cap with the contoured handle.

:leaf:
The forked dabber really keeps the heat away from the handle even after very prolonged use (like a really long big full melt dab lol) vs other dabber handles. It also gets the dab off of the tip more quickly than most other dabbers and is engineered to avoid leaving much residual earl along the dabber afterwards.

I will say that one should not use the smaller prong to get their rosin off of parchment (especially if you have any problems with fine motor skills - many of our fellow medical users can have this problem) as it can be quite pointy and therefore easy to damage the parchment layer and take a bit more than you bargained for away with your dabber!

Which handle for the liger is the contoured handled? There doesn't seem to be any clear list that I've found yet with all of the handles and pictures clearly describing which is which?

EDB2C930-DB40-46A7-8B9E-2BAA2653165E_zpsir4jodhj.jpg


Wait is it the handle on the middle cap here? If so that makes sense, it looks very similar to the fork dabber I'm talking about in the shape of the handle of it (not the tip obviously ;) ).
 

alittledabwilldoya'

Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
The forked dabber really keeps the heat away from the handle even after very prolonged use (like a really long big full melt dab lol) vs other dabber handles. It also gets the dab off of the tip more quickly than most other dabbers and is engineered to avoid leaving much residual earl along the dabber afterwards.

I will say that one should not use the smaller prong to get their rosin off of parchment (especially if you have any problems with fine motor skills - many of our fellow medical users can have this problem) as it can be quite pointy and therefore easy to damage the parchment layer and take a bit more than you bargained for away with your dabber!

Which handle for the liger is the contoured handled? There doesn't seem to be any clear list that I've found yet with all of the handles and pictures clearly describing which is which?

EDB2C930-DB40-46A7-8B9E-2BAA2653165E_zpsir4jodhj.jpg


Wait is it the handle on the middle cap here? If so that makes sense, it looks very similar to the fork dabber I'm talking about in the shape of the handle of it (not the tip obviously ;) ).


Yep, contoured handle (my terminology, not sure what final marketing speak will be) on the middle cap.
Skeleton handle on the left.

I saw the recent Terpy Tuesday video and it had a contoured handle with a threaded top so one can use the different dabber tips pictured on the left.
It looked like it worked well for the 30mm, but might be a bit big for the 20mm.
 
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HellsWindStaff

Dharma Initiate
That is a nice dabber.
http://www.d-nail.com/accessories/carb-caps-dabbers/d-nail-forked-dabber

I almost bought one of those when they came out, never did ... maybe now I'll try one.
It might be easier to flip than the contoured Liger handle.

It looks like it has a wider base than the ball-point and chisel tip HE dabbers so it would likely keep the variable airflow washer pinned down.

PS The lightest and easiest to flip Liger V3 carbcap/dabber combo is the Stormcell cap with the contoured handle.

:leaf:

I have that dabber, and it's totally worth it. Not that I have much experience with dabbers though :) the standard dabber/cap that comes with most China shit, some glass ones, and this... Really easy to pick off dabs from a big clump in a jar (I tend to have an eighth + in silicon and not usually dabbing off parchment) Melts down nice too with very little residue ever dripping down the stick......and the way it's designed, it gets fatter halfway through so anything that runs (very little mind you) is easily scraped off on the rim of a container, as it has a built in stop gap in a sense by getting wider rather then just running down a straight stick.
 

alittledabwilldoya'

Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
Was wondering the same thing. Did you find out anything?
How can I get on the pre order list for this bad boy :mmmm:


I think that I could facilitate that for you guys.
Shoot me a PM.

The only thing I dont like about the setup is that its very difficult to get your dabber into a concentrate holder because of the cap being in the way. Hits the sides. I cant see the V3 being any better and its probably worse. I brought this up to Josh and he agreed with me but said he hadnt come up with a way to get around that.

What would be nice is if the cap piece itself slid up and down. Then you could slide it out of the way, get your dab and just let it slide back down. This would also stop you from having to adjust the height of the tip as it would just sit against the dish when it slid down. Just a thought and the only way I can come up with ti get around this.

Either way, Im on the preorder list and cant wait. I just got the finger saver for the skeleton handle and one of the ball point tips. The ball point tip should be standard equipment!

I really like these little "wax wallets":

PWhitS8.jpg


5kMeu68.jpg


Super convenient.
Fits easily in pocket, or wherever.
And they make it very easy to see how much concentrate one is grabbing-for-dabbing!

:leaf:
 
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PoopMachine

Well-Known Member
Josh had mentioned he hoped to ship preorders a little early so maybe we'll get lucky.
 
PoopMachine,

mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
how hard is it to clean residue from the titanium pathway part of the banger and how do you do it?


I know this was answered a while ago but I will chime in. It's VERY easy to clean and keep clean. The parts unscrew for very easy soaking in iso. And it doesn't have to be done very often at all. If you wanted you can really torch clean the whole thing since it's pure Ti but I just soak mine.
 

Gonzo_da_wind

Well-Known Member
Does anyone else have the issue of the vapor path getting clogged in tube between between the liger body and bucket. The shafts keeps getting blocked with char like build up, which I'm pretty sure is a result of heat cleaning the bucket/insert by cranking up the coil temp. Any ideas why the oils don't just keep runming away from the heat. The clog and build up seems to be primarily isolated to first 1/4 inch of the pathwayear but it's about 1/16 before there any visual build up. Itsunami sort of annoying when your in the middle of a dab sesh nail and coil hot and you realize that no matter the carb adjustment that it like trying to dab through a milk shake. And I get tired of having to try and hunt down a sturdy enough paperclip toclear the blockage does anyone have a suggestion for a solution to this that doesn't involve needing to deform a ongoing sequence of office supplies.((not interested in keeping a dirty paperclip around as well as they tend to get worn))
 
Gonzo_da_wind,
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LazyIdol

Well-Known Member
Question for the v3 beta testers about what coil temperatures you are able to pull off?
 
LazyIdol,

GSR

Well-Known Member
Does anyone else have the issue of the vapor path getting clogged in tube between between the liger body and bucket. The shafts keeps getting blocked with char like build up, which I'm pretty sure is a result of heat cleaning the bucket/insert by cranking up the coil temp. Any ideas why the oils don't just keep runming away from the heat. The clog and build up seems to be primarily isolated to first 1/4 inch of the pathwayear but it's about 1/16 before there any visual build up. Itsunami sort of annoying when your in the middle of a dab sesh nail and coil hot and you realize that no matter the carb adjustment that it like trying to dab through a milk shake. And I get tired of having to try and hunt down a sturdy enough paperclip toclear the blockage does anyone have a suggestion for a solution to this that doesn't involve needing to deform a ongoing sequence of office supplies.((not interested in keeping a dirty paperclip around as well as they tend to get worn))

Sounds like you need to clean it bro. Take it apart and let all the titanium parts soak in some iso for a bit.
 
GSR,

mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Does anyone else have the issue of the vapor path getting clogged in tube between between the liger body and bucket. The shafts keeps getting blocked with char like build up, which I'm pretty sure is a result of heat cleaning the bucket/insert by cranking up the coil temp. Any ideas why the oils don't just keep runming away from the heat. The clog and build up seems to be primarily isolated to first 1/4 inch of the pathwayear but it's about 1/16 before there any visual build up. Itsunami sort of annoying when your in the middle of a dab sesh nail and coil hot and you realize that no matter the carb adjustment that it like trying to dab through a milk shake. And I get tired of having to try and hunt down a sturdy enough paperclip toclear the blockage does anyone have a suggestion for a solution to this that doesn't involve needing to deform a ongoing sequence of office supplies.((not interested in keeping a dirty paperclip around as well as they tend to get worn))


Yes, I had this happen once when I was dabbing rosin for a month or so pretty heavy. It had more waxes than my usual super clear shatter. Either way you can ream it out with a poker then torch and/or soak it and it's good to go. Suggested cleaning is just an iso soak in a baggie but when I neglect it for too long I just abuse mine and use a torch! (Not the official CCA preferred cleaning method)!

If you clean it more often that won't happen but yes, that is where I get build up too if I neglect cleaning.
 
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mrbonsai420,
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Baron23

Well-Known Member
really looking forward to all the finalized v3 stuff! will definitely be building a high quality review of it for theccc420

if anyone's interested in seeing action shots of the new gear i've been putting up lots of melts since i've received my flat coil v3 on my instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ccchase420/
Thanks @ccchase420 - I particularly like the egg yolk drop of the Lemon Draiz x Strawberry Lemonade. :clap:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLy5aoaDt5K/?taken-by=ccchase420

Oh gosh, envy is such an ugly emotion. LOL
 

mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Question for the v3 beta testers about what coil temperatures you are able to pull off?

I really like 670 with the 20mm sic, 690 with the flat Sic

And I run my Sapphire 20mm at 630 or below and my 30mm sapphire around 650.

Quartz I run around 700 or 710 on both. Play around with temps. Some fine shatters I get prefer lower temps I find while others vaporize better 10 degrees hotter. Coil brand may vary slightly as well.

BUT MUCH lower can be "pulled off" if you don't mind hitting your dab in 2 or 3 hits. You don't really lose anything that way with the right rigs doing it that way (low blowback rigs I call them, diffusion pumps come to mind). I have dropped temps to 500 with the 20mm sapphire and gotten mad tasty vapor. It just didn't finish vaping the dab in 1 hit.
 
Does anyone else have the issue of the vapor path getting clogged in tube between between the liger body and bucket. The shafts keeps getting blocked with char like build up, which I'm pretty sure is a result of heat cleaning the bucket/insert by cranking up the coil temp. Any ideas why the oils don't just keep runming away from the heat. The clog and build up seems to be primarily isolated to first 1/4 inch of the pathwayear but it's about 1/16 before there any visual build up. Itsunami sort of annoying when your in the middle of a dab sesh nail and coil hot and you realize that no matter the carb adjustment that it like trying to dab through a milk shake. And I get tired of having to try and hunt down a sturdy enough paperclip toclear the blockage does anyone have a suggestion for a solution to this that doesn't involve needing to deform a ongoing sequence of office supplies.((not interested in keeping a dirty paperclip around as well as they tend to get worn))

I soak a qtip in iso and push it thru the stem a couple times to clean that clog. I've abandoned any sort of heat cleaning lately, finding that after I let my SiC insert cool to room temp and then reheat to 625 a light scrape with my flathead dabber takes any carbon off. I then plug the intake hole with a qtip and blow the carbon out of the banger.
 
BHOmb.,

alittledabwilldoya'

Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
I really like 670 with the 20mm sic, 690 with the flat Sic

And I run my Sapphire 20mm at 630 or below and my 30mm sapphire around 650.

Quartz I run around 700 or 710 on both. Play around with temps. Some fine shatters I get prefer lower temps I find while others vaporize better 10 degrees hotter. Coil brand may vary slightly as well.

BUT MUCH lower can be "pulled off" if you don't mind hitting your dab in 2 or 3 hits. You don't really lose anything that way with the right rigs doing it that way (low blowback rigs I call them, diffusion pumps come to mind). I have dropped temps to 500 with the 20mm sapphire and gotten mad tasty vapor. It just didn't finish vaping the dab in 1 hit.

Similar temperatures for me:

20mm Sapphire 640*
20mm SiC 660*
20mm Quartz 700*

30mm Sapphire 650*
30mm SiC 670*
30mm Quartz 710*

As Bonsai notes temps vary slightly with concentrate type, dab sizes, coil brand.
Recently I've just been buying zips of wax as the price is nice and haven't had much shatter; these temps work well for wax.

:leaf:
 

Gn0sis

Well-Known Member
if i have the D-nail sapphire halo, what would be the benefits of switching to a Liger V3 with a sapphire insert?
 
Gn0sis,

ccchase420

TheCCC420 YouTuber
if i have the D-nail sapphire halo, what would be the benefits of switching to a Liger V3 with a sapphire insert?
you can change the angle of it to fit on 45 or 90 degree pieces. i would also say that the design is more efficient, with the encased coil wrapped around the insert instead of a flat coil under the dnail. the sapphire insert, though expensive, will be polished to a smooth transparent finish which has added efficiency if that's the route you want to take (a bit novelty, but something dnail does not offer.)

the storm cell/hurricane cap (particularly the master cap with skeleton handle) crushes the dnail cap without question with it's modular nature and overall superiority in design.

customer support should be just as good if not better than what you've experienced with dnail.
 

mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
if i have the D-nail sapphire halo, what would be the benefits of switching to a Liger V3 with a sapphire insert?
you can change the angle of it to fit on 45 or 90 degree pieces. i would also say that the design is more efficient, with the encased coil wrapped around the insert instead of a flat coil under the dnail. the sapphire insert, though expensive, will be polished to a smooth transparent finish which has added efficiency if that's the route you want to take (a bit novelty, but something dnail does not offer.)

the storm cell/hurricane cap (particularly the master cap with skeleton handle) crushes the dnail cap without question with it's modular nature and overall superiority in design.

customer support should be just as good if not better than what you've experienced with dnail.


All of the above answers for sure. Just in general I personally have always liked banger style nails over standard domeless. Even going back to my torch days that Pre-date the Liger V1 and back to my very first CCA product. The Turtle Banger. I have always liked bangers better for a number of reasons. The nice flat cup gives a very easy dabbing surface to hit for even the shakiest handed medical patients. My mom will accidentally suck in an occasional dab in the center hole on a halo because she shakes. On a Liger or banger this doesn't happen. Plus there is much less heat on the joint of your rig.

As for the craftsmanship, I think the quality of the Ti and the polish of the inserts is far above any competition. The inserts just keep getting better and better. I feel like I am hitting high end, well polished materials (ala Pukinbeagle, Quave Bangers and such) with the new quartz and the SiC and Sapphire are even better! I also think there has been A LOT more Product development, engineering, thought, and revisions made to this product that far exceed what the competition is doing.
After hitting the Liger (with SiC insert) side by side with the SiC halo I liked the Liger better, hands down. (I may be biased and I haven't hit the sapphire Halo)
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
I gotta say guys, you have written off the d-nail wicking surface on the sapphire halo altogether and somehow assumed that the more complex, engineered wik feature is less useful for our needs than polished vitreous sapphire with no explanation. On the face of it, this comparison of the surface of the sapphire seems doubtful; a thinner film of oil being spread about in the capillary channels contacting more available hot surface area of the nail = more efficient vaporization than a polished surface without capillaries - the wik surface has additional hot surface area because the sides of the capillary channels are additionally present as well as the floor. Now let's take a moment to clarify that I am not saying that this means the Liger or Halo are worse or better than one another. There are so many differences in the designs (crucially these differences relate to the way the nail is heated!) aside from this one!

With my technical background, I hate to see a purpose made manufacturing technique and functional design (the sapphire wik surface) that draws on bleeding edge research and even more bleeding edge manufacturing dismissed out of hand in favor of an existing manufacturing technique from another application (polished vitreous sapphire is already used in aerospace applications).

Obviously, I will be owning both products in the not too distant future and will be able to contribute my thoughts on comparing them more broadly so will reserve judgement overall on any overall comparison of sapphire to sapphire until then.

What I'm asking is this: Can you really propose to know precisely what contribution the difference in wicking dish surface on the Halo is making vs the polished surface on the liger sapphire insert (after all, there are many different design features and the Liger and D-nail halos both use very different methods of heating the nail and distributing heat across it, as well as very different shapes and functions in other aspects - how do you presume to have teased these apart?)? This is a very dubious claim, without carrying out a systematic comparative scientific study! We are talking about a material (sapphire) that is typically only used in limited high tech applications here (and more to the point, the wik surface design being compared does not exist to my knowledge in any other sapphire application) - this is not conventional nor widely understood knowledge!

You guys obviously appreciate now I am buying a liger with Sapphire and will own both sapphire nails soon. I am no shill. I am paying large amounts of money to try both and obviously I haven't made up my mind which one is better to use. I am just saying that as a person from a scientific/engineering/technical background, it is important to reserve such specific and technical claims for those who can give us systematic studies to conclusively show that these claims regarding the new technology are accurate.

Please, any name calling or accusations of 'shill' (sadly this has happened too many times in this particular thread) will lead to the offenders being immediately reported and permanently ignored - I do not direct this at my friends Chase and MrBonsai who are perfect gentlemen and don't behave like this IME! :)

I am not saying anything negative about the Liger sapphire or even saying that one sapphire nail is better than the other yet, just saying that some specific claims here go beyond what can be conclusively demonstrated. Obviously I'll get the chance to look at each products function more closely myself soon enough and give my thoughts then. Before that, aside from the technical points I make above, I won't enter into comparison of the two products more broadly. :peace:
 
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mutten840

Well-Known Member
@herbivore21 Why does someone prefer a stick over an automatic? It could be argued that one is far superior to the other, yet you still see a world full of both. The point I am trying to make is a lot of it is in the eye of the beholder and so you will most likely see a mixed bag of reactions due to it all being up to personal preference in the end =)
 
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