Arizer Solo

[fernand]

Off Topic Alert!

Comment: Transcripts from pre-Choom days are easier to read/understand! http://abcnews.go.com/blogs/politics/2012/05/obama-and-his-pot-smoking-choom-gang/

Sorry, back to your normally scheduled Solo Thread...

And so why on earth couldn't he make the USA a little more forgiving, in this respect at least? Has everyone here written him asking? Or is that like high risk?

Sorry, back to your normally scheduled Solo Thread...

IMO trying to crack and modify the Solo is not a good use of the effort, more can be done (and easier probably) with a more wide open approach. Including reshaping the package some if you feel like going that way.

OF

It depends what you wanna do. Overall I'm happy with how it works, not just the oven. If we can get a code dump, dissasembly and finding the session timeout constant isn't out of the question. To start over from scratch is a different project for sure.

 

[OF]

It depends what you wanna do. Overall I'm happy with how it works, not just the oven. If we can get a code dump, dissasembly and finding the session timeout constant isn't out of the question. To start over from scratch is a different project for sure.

I really don't think a dump will help much, it's compiled code at that level. Disassemblers will give workable (but different) code, but it will probably defy modification. We'd need (commented) source code to avoid generating problems elsewhere I'd think.

And I bet Arizer is not even a little interested in folks hacking into their units, so the source code is out of reach?

Possible, perhaps, but not likely at all easy.

OTOH, a ground up program is really not that big a deal I think. Nothing at all special going on there. Simple setpoint temperature control (not even PID), modest charging control (if you even decide to include charging, perhaps going for changeable batteries?). Hey, that sucker might even be hard programed, we might not be able to change software at all?

OF

 

[DDave]

And so why on earth couldn't he make the USA a little more forgiving, in this respect at least? Has everyone here written him asking? Or is that like high risk?

I promised not to bash political figures in the Vape threads, so for the answer, please see this...

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/it’s-ddave-you-don’t-want-to-not-give-me-that.13399/#post-570629

 

[fernand]

Is it bad form on this forum to like narrate our discoveries? I mean everybody here has I guess long gone through some of the Solo stuff, but not all ?

I would humbly agree people not worry about hunting for the new model. If an e-bayer like easyvape can sell over 1000 units, it's not likely that there are any of the older ones still being shipped now. Has anyone recently gotten an "old" unit that won't run if you plug in the charger?

And coming from the electronics side, given how undefined the behavior is, personally I won't be trying to RUN mine off ANY AC adapter, at least as long as my stock batteries are solid: just charge then run.

Can a ready-made replacement battery pack be purchased? Where? How much? Or do you have to swap the individual batteries?

To make a concentrate pad I just got my 30 mm B&S SS pad, $6 shipped, to try. That's the EASY VALVE one, it's 30 mm diameter, the SOLID VALVE type is like 24 mm. It's made of a polished SS wire 0.05" 0.1 mm thick, (that's 36 gauge?), apparently woven into like a 3 inch basket/tube, but then they scrunch the sucker down into a pad 3 cm by 0.5 cm, so it's effectively a random wad. First impression: nice stuff. The taste is minimal so far. Compared to a Steel/SS/Brass fine wool, whose fibers are maybe a tenth as thick, it's not wicking or holding as much concentrate, but it may well be enough. The fact that it's a continuous wire, that can carry heat better from the edges into the core of El Wado, IMHO trumps all the other issues by a mile. I don't see heating the metal as a "loss", as it's not much of a convection heater, so unless the wire is hot, the wax is not.

@OF you're right, that unwinding the wire right is important. If you find the top "flap" and lift it, you can pull up like a very loosely woven tube sock. To make my Solo Stem wad (that fills the whole stem end) I was able to scrunch it back down at a smaller diameter.

Running at 6-7 with concentrate it's quite a hot vapor right up the tube. That's one thing I prefer about the FireFly. But a Gong has arrived from the frozen North. A water path will be nice.

All this loose stem stuff is bizarre. My stems are all slightly different diameters. Nobody can optimize for that fit! An o-ring or some retainer is pretty necessary.

@OF IMHO the heating, charging and operating algorithms they've developed for the Solo are effective, and non-trivial. You can always decompile code if they haven't locked it, say blown the fuses. But I'd say no use reinventing the wheel on this one, because it works ok, and the heater here isn't a super effective one to re-use - it has to be very cost and size conscious. It's well made at its price point. Where it would make more sense to program a new one would be say in creating a cost-be-damned e-nail that senses the approaching dab and blazes up to a mad temperature just shy of blowing all the fuses in the house, and then backs of ;-)

 

[ataxian]

Is it bad form on this forum to like narrate our discoveries? I mean everybody here has I guess long gone through some of the Solo stuff, but not all ?


To make a concentrate pad I just got my 30 mm B&S SS pad, $6 shipped, to try. That's the EASY VALVE one, it's 30 mm diameter, the SOLID VALVE type is like 24 mm. It's made of a polished SS wire 0.05" 0.1 mm thick, (that's 36 gauge?), apparently woven into like a 3 inch basket/tube, but then they scrunch the sucker down into a pad 3 cm by 0.5 cm, so it's effectively a random wad. First impression: nice stuff. The taste is minimal so far. Compared to a Steel/SS/Brass fine wool, whose fibers are maybe a tenth as thick, it's not wicking or holding as much concentrate, but it may well be enough. The fact that it's a continuous wire, that can carry heat better from the edges into the core of El Wado, IMHO trumps all the other issues by a mile. I don't see heating the metal as a "loss", as it's not much of a convection heater, so unless the wire is hot, the wax is not.

SOLO's I've done concentrates and it works.
I prefer to look at it like this:

All vaporizers in general do the same thing!
Heat the flower up to vaporize the medicine with out combustion.
Some of the members are RECREATIONAL and that is cool they seek a healthier way to enjoy this wonderful plant.
Some including myself are Medical Patients. Safer than drugs!

I'm still learning as most of us are.

However I have found that the SOLO is best used for FLOWERS.
WAX Pens for concentrates.
I don't like to drink fine wine out of a plastic cup.
The SOLO is no plastic cup just their are certain things for concentrates.
I'm not an expert like @OF however as a member this is my point of view!
Well purged concentrate with 7.4 volts?
SHATTER at this voltage no need to dab!

One trick pony?

Have various devices for various forms of CANNABIS!

 

[fernand]

Yo, @ataxian . As a new patient, I'm discovering a
lot of variables - in the plant strains, in the curing, in
the form, and then in the input. Concentrates are a
new form, and there are all these ways to use 'em.

I'm not happy with the wax pens, and the full-on nail
is a very complete intake, no discrimination. I think
that concentrates can give different fractions at
different temps, just like flowers - makes sense. And
the Solo has a big range, so it's a GOOD concentrate
vaporizer. When I dab on a FireFly I focus on the very
wide awake lower temp fractions. On the Solo at 4-5
I can dab for that lighter effect, cranking up to 6
it's half way, and at 7 it's nearing pretty complete
effects, sedation and all. A wax pen IMHO is like
writing a love letter with a shovel, because there is
no temp control, part of the load is barely simmering
and in other corners it's burning on the hot wire.
The solo gives such beautifully even ABV, it's clear
what a good and even temp control job it does.

So that's my take, and why I'm mentioning the pad
for concentrates on ... THE SOLO.

 

[king krish]

Has anyone heard any update from PV with their glass? March is nearly over and was hoping to get some in before then.

 

[OF]

I would humbly agree people not worry about hunting for the new model.

And coming from the electronics side, given how undefined the behavior is, personally I won't be trying to RUN mine off ANY AC adapter, at least as long as my stock batteries are solid: just charge then run.

Can a ready-made replacement battery pack be purchased? Where? How much? Or do you have to swap the individual batteries?

Running at 6-7 with concentrate it's quite a hot vapor right up the tube. That's one thing I prefer about the FireFly. But a Gong has arrived from the frozen North. A water path will be nice.

All this loose stem stuff is bizarre. My stems are all slightly different diameters. Nobody can optimize for that fit! An o-ring or some retainer is pretty necessary.

@OF IMHO the heating, charging and operating algorithms they've developed for the Solo are effective, and non-trivial. But I'd say no use reinventing the wheel on this one, because it works ok, and the heater here isn't a super effective one to re-use - it has to be very cost and size conscious.

Cool. Gald you're on board with the Volcano pads. I agree that old models are probably all gone, which IMO is really too bad. At this point I'm afraid based on reported problems I'd suggest new owners avoid t hem if they could (seek out the older, apparently more reliable, models). Their ability to perform in the real world is well established. Those insights also explain why it's quite possible for different stuff to be at different temperatures in a dynamic situation like happens on the draw. I've measured wide temperature swings, those all have magnitudes and time constants associated with them unless the situation is static (which it never will be here).

I'm not sure about the 'never try to run when it's plugged in' part, it's sure to be very unpopular with folks. If I was sure it makes a difference in reliability or battery life I'd be in favor, but the evidence seems to be that battery issues are happening too fast for the unit to have run them out and many if not most of the failures seem to be unrelated to this mode. I think we'll need more time for this issue to become more clear? It would be super, I think, if someone with trouble with the new one and owning a working older one would swap battery packs, but I realize not many guys are in that position and many folks (for reasons good to them) have a taboo on opening them up. FWIW there seems to be some claims 'coming the other way' that batteries are the problem with lots of the odd behavior of new units. Maybe that's BS, maybe not?

I've built a couple of packs, it's not trivial, I suspect well past most owners. One of the usual suspects around here sells a pack (a couple of models?), CentiGen I think? You can, it seems, also buy the factory pack in the EU, about 40 Euros?

The otherwise attractive Tenergy two 18650 packs don't fit, too long, the PCB has to be on the side not top. And again, fair warning to those who are inclined to fire up the soldering iron and wade in, watch the polarity. Arizer, for whatever reason, swapped the polarity at the connector....it's no longer standard.

The loose stem 'issue' is perhaps best understood by noting the maker doesn't consider this a problem. And has said so a couple of times. It seems to me to be well thought through under those terms. They could easily have designed in some scheme to hold the stem (say a clip above the seal fitting a notch or narrowing of the stem? Such would be very easy to have designed into the tooling to make the stems, but they 'didn't go there'.

I agree, unless you've got a reason to, best to use it as designed. We see the oven differently, I see it as OK efficiency wise (compared to it's competitors) but rather I see the design as very effective at extraction of vapor, very easy to keep clean (should you wish) and it's simple design opens up all sorts of aftermarket goodies. I see it as a key (perhaps the key?) to the unit's success. And there's no arguing with the taste, most consider it top notch.

I still think if you have some radical improvement (even a repackage) it's hard to go wrong using that proven component.

It's made of a polished SS wire 0.05" 0.1 mm thick, (that's 36 gauge?), apparently woven into like a 3 inch basket/tube, but then they scrunch the sucker down into a pad 3 cm by 0.5 cm, so it's effectively a random wad.

I don't see heating the metal as a "loss", as it's not much of a convection heater, so unless the wire is hot, the wax is not.

You might want to recheck your numbers. .05 inchs is a bit over 1.25mm, right? A dozen times bigger. .1mm would be roughly .004 inches (four mils), I make it out at 3, close enough for jazz.

The heat loss idea comes from Thermodynamics and IMO really does apply to that level of analysis. It's all about understanding the heat flow. I didn't invent the term, I only repeat it and suggest we stick with the definitions in the text books.

Anyway, I'm glad you tried it and found success. Thanks for posting as much.

Some of the members are RECREATIONAL and that is cool they seek a healthier way to enjoy this wonderful plant.
Some including myself are Medical Patients. Safer than drugs!

I'm still learning as most of us are.

However I have found that the SOLO is best used for FLOWERS.
WAX Pens for concentrates.

I'm not an expert like @OF however as a member this is my point of view!

Once again, I find myself in (almost complete) agreement with you. For a Surfer Dude yer pretty sharp IMO.

Spot on with the 'two classes of users' thing. Important perspective, for many of us this is much more important that it is for others.

The point that leaves me wondering is the '......expert like OF' part. You must be on drugs or something........

We're just in an area where I have some experience and training. Don't ask me about fashion, Social Media or even cell phones. I have some strongly held opinions and experience I think can benefit folks trying to make informed decisions I'm happy to share, but feel I must stand ready to explain them. A clear character flaw. Then again, I draw comfort from having company in that boat.......like say you?

Thanks to both of you, you too are making valuable contributions I think. And that's a good thing.

OF

 

[fernand]

@OF, Left out a zero on the SAE measurement, that SS wire on mine is about 0.004-0.005" around 0.1 mm.

Arizer likely imagines everyone uses the Solo right side up. But then, they don't care if some of the vapestoffe hits the deck? It's bound to stain, as you said. With small amounts I'm happier just vaping it with the stem pointing down. So screw it, I'm happy with an o-ring, and have no urge to overtighten anything, otherwise a rubber band on the top's threading even adds a gala contrasting color note. Of course on a Gong it's always upside down ...

 

[pakalolo]

Can a ready-made replacement battery pack be purchased? Where? How much? Or do you have to swap the individual batteries?

Yes. CentiZen makes a replacement battery pack for the Solo. See his thread for details.

 

[ataxian]

Yo, @ataxian . As a new patient, I'm discovering a
lot of variables - in the plant strains, in the curing, in
the form, and then in the input. Concentrates are a
new form, and there are all these ways to use 'em.

I'm not happy with the wax pens, and the full-on nail
is a very complete intake, no discrimination. I think
that concentrates can give different fractions at
different temps, just like flowers - makes sense. And
the Solo has a big range, so it's a GOOD concentrate
vaporizer. When I dab on a FireFly I focus on the very
wide awake lower temp fractions. On the Solo at 4-5
I can dab for that lighter effect, cranking up to 6
it's half way, and at 7 it's nearing pretty complete
effects, sedation and all. A wax pen IMHO is like
writing a love letter with a shovel, because there is
no temp control, part of the load is barely simmering
and in other corners it's burning on the hot wire.
The solo gives such beautifully even ABV, it's clear
what a good and even temp control job it does.

So that's my take, and why I'm mentioning the pad
for concentrates on ... THE SOLO.

I respectfully disagree with you!

Maybe you tried the low end version of wax pens?

7.4V is bliss with SHATTER

Don't get me wrong?
I love the SOLO for FLOWERS!

I have my means to medicate the best way for me and my condition.

 

[c76man]

Just fired up my new Solo. Bent stem fit well, haven't tried the straight stem yet. First 2 hits were super flavorful, after that flavor seemed more in line with MFLB to me. Started at 4,finished at 5, good smith vapor throughout. Thank you to this forum for turning me on to a great vape. So far my screens seem to fall out when I clean each load. Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong? Just using the screens PIU threw in my package.

 

[Newcastle]

Mine is out for delivery. Did you have to sign for it c76man? I can't wait and of course there is a chance I won't be home when the mailman gets here. I wanted to double check as to break in. I am going to charge it until the light glows solid. Then after that try not to again so it doesn't read a full charge. Is that correct? Anything else except enjoy?

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

Just fired up my new Solo. Bent stem fit well, haven't tried the straight stem yet. First 2 hits were super flavorful, after that flavor seemed more in line with MFLB to me. Started at 4,finished at 5, good smith vapor throughout. Thank you to this forum for turning me on to a great vape. So far my screens seem to fall out when I clean each load. Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong? Just using the screens PIU threw in my package.

I start at 2 and the taste is ridiculous.

 

[ataxian]

Cool. Gald you're on board with the Volcano pads. I agree that old models are probably all gone, which IMO is really too bad. At this point I'm afraid based on reported problems I'd suggest new owners avoid t hem if they could (seek out the older, apparently more reliable, models). Their ability to perform in the real world is well established. Those insights also explain why it's quite possible for different stuff to be at different temperatures in a dynamic situation like happens on the draw. I've measured wide temperature swings, those all have magnitudes and time constants associated with them unless the situation is static (which it never will be here).

I'm not sure about the 'never try to run when it's plugged in' part, it's sure to be very unpopular with folks. If I was sure it makes a difference in reliability or battery life I'd be in favor, but the evidence seems to be that battery issues are happening too fast for the unit to have run them out and many if not most of the failures seem to be unrelated to this mode. I think we'll need more time for this issue to become more clear? It would be super, I think, if someone with trouble with the new one and owning a working older one would swap battery packs, but I realize not many guys are in that position and many folks (for reasons good to them) have a taboo on opening them up. FWIW there seems to be some claims 'coming the other way' that batteries are the problem with lots of the odd behavior of new units. Maybe that's BS, maybe not?

I've built a couple of packs, it's not trivial, I suspect well past most owners. One of the usual suspects around here sells a pack (a couple of models?), CentiGen I think? You can, it seems, also buy the factory pack in the EU, about 40 Euros?

The otherwise attractive Tenergy two 18650 packs don't fit, too long, the PCB has to be on the side not top. And again, fair warning to those who are inclined to fire up the soldering iron and wade in, watch the polarity. Arizer, for whatever reason, swapped the polarity at the connector....it's no longer standard.

The loose stem 'issue' is perhaps best understood by noting the maker doesn't consider this a problem. And has said so a couple of times. It seems to me to be well thought through under those terms. They could easily have designed in some scheme to hold the stem (say a clip above the seal fitting a notch or narrowing of the stem? Such would be very easy to have designed into the tooling to make the stems, but they 'didn't go there'.

I agree, unless you've got a reason to, best to use it as designed. We see the oven differently, I see it as OK efficiency wise (compared to it's competitors) but rather I see the design as very effective at extraction of vapor, very easy to keep clean (should you wish) and it's simple design opens up all sorts of aftermarket goodies. I see it as a key (perhaps the key?) to the unit's success. And there's no arguing with the taste, most consider it top notch.

I still think if you have some radical improvement (even a repackage) it's hard to go wrong using that proven component.



You might want to recheck your numbers. .05 inch's is a bit over 1.25mm, right? A dozen times bigger. .1mm would be roughly .004 inches (four mils), I make it out at 3, close enough for jazz.

The heat loss idea comes from Thermodynamics and IMO really does apply to that level of analysis. It's all about understanding the heat flow. I didn't invent the term, I only repeat it and suggest we stick with the definitions in the text books.

Anyway, I'm glad you tried it and found success. Thanks for posting as much.



Once again, I find myself in (almost complete) agreement with you. For a Surfer Dude yer pretty sharp IMO.

Spot on with the 'two classes of users' thing. Important perspective, for many of us this is much more important that it is for others.

The point that leaves me wondering is the '......expert like OF' part. You must be on drugs or something........

We're just in an area where I have some experience and training. Don't ask me about fashion, Social Media or even cell phones. I have some strongly held opinions and experience I think can benefit folks trying to make informed decisions I'm happy to share, but feel I must stand ready to explain them. A clear character flaw. Then again, I draw comfort from having company in that boat.......like say you?

Thanks to both of you, you too are making valuable contributions I think. And that's a good thing.

OF

"OF" seriously I mean it when i say you are an expert with vaporizers and devices that require a battery.

Anyway your correct as usual: I am very well medicated!

When I was failing in my quest to return to cannabis you showed me the errors of my ways. You put me on the right track and I'm very grateful.
I'm a generalist and I need people like you to help me see a bit more detail.

So to me you are an "EXPERT"!

 

[CarolKing]

IMO the Solo has far better flavor than the MFLB. I didn't like using my MFLB because of the hassle of putting the battery in the unit every time I took a draw. Not a part of a relaxing session.

With the Solo it's relax and enjoy the superb vapor taste. Not to mention it medicates well and it's so easy to use.

 

[c76man]

Mine is out for delivery. Did you have to sign for it c76man? I can't wait and of course there is a chance I won't be home when the mailman gets here. I wanted to double check as to break in. I am going to charge it until the light glows solid. Then after that try not to again so it doesn't read a full charge. Is that correct? Anything else except enjoy?

If you check your tracking information, there is an option to have it left at your house without a signature. Based on the advice of this thread, I did 2 burn off sessions at level 7, just cranked it up to 7 (with the cap open) and let it run until the auto turn off after 12 minutes.

 

[Newcastle]

Its out for delivery. I don't know if I click something now it will update the driver. I will make sure someone is here. Tell the kids DON'T OPEN IT!...lol I will do the burn offs that you suggest. Did you use it afterwards or does it require a recharge.

 

[c76man]

Its out for delivery. I don't know if I click something now it will update the driver. I will make sure someone is here. Tell the kids DON'T OPEN IT!...lol I will do the burn offs that you suggest. Did you use it afterwards or does it require a recharge.

Still tons of battery power left after 2 12 minute cycles. I just loaded and enjoyed right after.

 

[padorni]

Homemade bamboo mouthpiece!

 

[tdriver]

cracked bottom plate question....

are the bottom plate cracks related to the O-ring mod?

my solo is about a month old and I have no crack....yet.
will unscrewing the screws a little ,help not cracking the plate?

I read about putting a washer under the screws , and then add some felt to the bottom....
is this to prevent it from cracking or is it a fix for cracked plates?

 

[hd_rider]

The bottom plate cracking is due to the o-ring people are squeezing in under the top cap. When screwing down the top cap, the o-ring tries to force the internal assembly downward and stress is introduced on the four corners of the plastic base where it is attached to the aluminum housing. Too much force (by tightening the top cap too much) causes the plastic base to crack around the screws.

Once it's cracked, the only way to address it is to put washers on the screws to remove some of that stress off the plastic holes.

I believe it has been mentioned earlier in this thread to install the top cap so that the o-ring is just barely held in place, understanding that this may result in a gap between the aluminum body and the aluminum cap.

 

[Pipes]

cracked bottom plate question....

are the bottom plate cracks related to the O-ring mod?

my solo is about a month old and I have no crack....yet.
will unscrewing the screws a little ,help not cracking the plate?

I read about putting a washer under the screws , and then add some felt to the bottom....
is this to prevent it from cracking or is it a fix for cracked plates?

The cracks are from different things. IMO, the O rig could very well do the cracking if tightened too far. Also will make the threads jump on the cap. The screws need to be snug (not loose) but not too tight as well.
Also, yes you can add the washers before hand for preventative maintenance.

FYI, these are the instructions I include in the free kit I include with the AIO or stands.

 

[randomperson]

Any idea manufacturing run of serial number M1a49132**

 

[ataxian]

Any idea manufacturing run of serial number M1a49132**

Forget the number it doesn't matter!@
Vape away!

It's big however it works!