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Arizer Solo II

OF

Well-Known Member
My bad @OF. Was unaware you've said it before

The airs short stems irritate my throat ( probably cuz I vape on red all the time) so I ordered the curved solo stem from Randy and I use that in the air lol. Yeah i think I'll probably go the Solo 2 route when they drop a 420 sale and send my air in after I get the Solo so I have a backup

Not to worry, just indicating a search for posts by me on Air or Solo forums could get you more information? Or not.

I get it, I use 'mid ranges' and only go 'full blast' with water. Otherwise the hot, dry air does a job I don't want done.......

You might try a trick I've posted before: Poke a wet pipe cleaner down the stem from the top. The all cotton and steel wire kind. This evaporates the water in the hot air stream, cooling it some but more importantly adding moisture back in. I stole the idea from the Thermovape 'tru-flow', a ceramic disk add on for (some of) their vapes. I find it dried out in longer sessions, so I have a drip bottle of water standing by, 2 or 3 drops down from the top gets it going again. I usually fold the pipe cleaner twice (3 thick) and poke it just below flush where it's easy to pluck out with a bent paper clip.

If I didn't already have a Solo or Air, I'd probably go with the new Solo, FWIW. Enjoy yours.

Come on Randy, show us the offer.........

OF
 

biohacker

Well-Known Member
Great question, and also what is the top temp of 220c like in comparison to the Solo of 210c? Does it char at all or get too close to the line of combustion?

210c seemed pretty high and harsh for me...I can't imagine 220c, however would be great for a flower/concentrate hybrid bowl!
 

shawn0223

Well-Known Member
Not a bad idea. Will have to try it. I'm waiting on Randy too lol. Unless arizer just has a wonderful 420 deal.
Not to worry, just indicating a search for posts by me on Air or Solo forums could get you more information? Or not.

I get it, I use 'mid ranges' and only go 'full blast' with water. Otherwise the hot, dry air does a job I don't want done.......

You might try a trick I've posted before: Poke a wet pipe cleaner down the stem from the top. The all cotton and steel wire kind. This evaporates the water in the hot air stream, cooling it some but more importantly adding moisture back in. I stole the idea from the Thermovape 'tru-flow', a ceramic disk add on for (some of) their vapes. I find it dried out in longer sessions, so I have a drip bottle of water standing by, 2 or 3 drops down from the top gets it going again. I usually fold the pipe cleaner twice (3 thick) and poke it just below flush where it's easy to pluck out with a bent paper clip.

If I didn't already have a Solo or Air, I'd probably go with the new Solo, FWIW. Enjoy yours.

Come on Randy, show us the offer.........

OF
 

blackstone

Well-Known Member
Liking that idea too OF, if a short black stem is too hot I must remember this (wet pipecleaner)tip!
Thinking a short stem with a cap either end will be my new strategy for the pocket.
I have container tubes for stems but they're bulky.
Hoping I can find a nice slim cap for the mouthpiece end of a regular stem. (GH battery cap?)

While browsing for new photos I found this German review:
http://extreme-vaporizer.de/arizer-solo-2/
with some more nice images of the blue finish.
Google translator worked for me but there's not much that wasn't already said.
Seeing the weight in grams (210g) and comparing PAX at 90g does make me think, but I hope to own both these units eventually.

Also it gives a link to one of the first EU listings on a well known German site at €245 with availability date of June 1st:
https://verdampftnochmal.de/products/de/Arizer-Solo-2_5

It's less than some recent releases but I remember thinking Solo was expensive at around €197 a few years ago. Back when a good bargain was more important to me than materials safety and build quality!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thinking a short stem with a cap either end will be my new strategy for the pocket.

You mean like this:
WgOYSb5.jpg


Naw.....never work........

Here's a tip for you, vinyl tube caps (like used there) come in two grades, the normal (soft) ones in the hardware store which won't take much heat at all and 'high temperature' ones (I got from McMaster-Carr) that while harder can be snapped onto a hot stem (rated to 450F IIRC for enough time for the stem to cool on it's own). It's easy to learn how to do this without burning yourself.

This means in an emergency you can pull the stem, cap it, and put it in your pocket at flank speed. The evidence and smell with it........

Capping the oval cross section on the MP end is a tough nut, or at least I found it so. I found a plastic tube that would fit over the flats and seal on the taper of the threaded part (where GonG connectors fit), but I never figured out where I got it before I split the mouth and it became less important. Using the soft cap (same size, BTW, just soft not hard) and the slightly longer Silicone tube inside it to grip the smooth plastic of the MP cap was the solution for me. So, to copy my modest (but successful) effort you need nominal half inch vinyl caps in both hard and soft materials and 3/8 ID, 1/2 OD Silicone tube (I used high temp version which I had handy, but there's no reason I see not to use lesser grades as long as they are soft and 'grabby'.

OF
 

blackstone

Well-Known Member
You mean like this:


This means in an emergency you can pull the stem, cap it, and put it in your pocket at flank speed. The evidence and smell with it........


OF

Yeah! It must be hard tell the difference between the two different vinyl ones.
I just got the regular ones and have often regretted it and have to wait for cool down!

Those plastic mouthpiece tips got a bit warm for me after a while, so I'd be sticking with all glass stems for now.
Arizer supply some silicone heatproof caps now with new vapes and what I had in mind is use this for the hot end, but get a slimmer cap for the other end of a regular glass stem to trap smell like yours!
I use a regular cap on the cold end of a PVHES stem in storage but those stems are wider.

We just don't have those caps in many stores here but I'll find them somewhere!
I also had in mind a photo you shared of a tin with foam and might do something like that as a stem container.
Or a storage tube from a manual butane clicky vape device might work as a short stem holder!

Another thing I meant to share from that site was the stem with carb ( item not available?):
products-en-arizer-solo-special-glass-tube-straight.jpg
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Yeah! It must be hard tell the difference between the two different vinyl ones.
I just got the regular ones and have often regretted it and have to wait for cool down!

We just don't have those caps in many stores here but I'll find them somewhere!
I also had in mind a photo you shared of a tin with foam and might do something like that as a stem container.

It's actually fairly easy to sort a handful into hard and soft. The hard ones are much stiffer and thicker as well. Which is one of the reasons I cut them to half length, they're too hard to force all the way on and then fight off when it comes time to use them. Being short makes it harder of them to cant coming off enough to bind and the cut edge is even thicker so it's easy to catch it with a thumbnail and flip it off. Going on is easy, you mash down square with your thumb on the top of it and it pops on. IMO it's darn near ideal once cut. Picking up one at random can leave you scratching your head until you find another to compare it too. For me, that's easy since I always have a (Silicone tube lined) uncut soft one handy if I pull the liner (which is easy).

I found one shop that has them, a place for Hydraulic Fittings, Hoses and such. That's how I first learned of them. But they're very expensive there. The ones I got from M/C cost little more for 100 pieces. Standard industrial stuff, I suspect there are suppliers in most cities?

https://www.mcmaster.com/#vinyl-caps/=178de7d

Best carry case I found for stems (in fact the only one for bent ones) is the hard cases made for sun and eyeglasses. Not solidly vapor tight in the own right like the 'travel tubes' (blanks for making soft drink bottles) are. I think the TT is too big to put in your pocket, not so the glasses cases?

Regards to all.

OF
 

stickstones

Vapor concierge
I'm thinking about bringing my Solo 1 or this new Solo 2 overseas sometime.
So on a Solo 1 you can spin off the top cap and brush away some crumbs, iso wipe and maybe do burnoffs before travelling.
Is there a gap where crumbs can fall in on Solo 2? Or can you remove the cap and clean them?

It doesn't come off on the Solo 2 (or it does but with considerable force...more than I'm willing to give it). But it doesn't have the vent holes in the top where your crumbs used to fall. The vent is now on the backside where that won't be a problem.

Can you or anyone else measure the temp with a temp reader and check the accuracy of the Solo 2 temp regulator?

I used the temp probe I use to calibrate the minivaps, so I don't know how well this will translate to the Solo in terms of temp readings...I only truly trust this probe with minivaps. But once the unit is up to temp and heat soaked for a few minutes it stays put during my draw. The reading I got were 20 -30 degrees cooler than the set temp, but I don't trust that here. What I do trust is the movement of the temps, and they dropped during my draw with the first several pulls and then stabilized during the draw after that.

Great question, and also what is the top temp of 220c like in comparison to the Solo of 210c? Does it char at all or get too close to the line of combustion?

I don't like it at 220C because of that charring. I like using it with whole nugs and I think it thoroughly extracts without the need for stirring. But when I go above 210C the bottom of the load scorches quicker and I lose a lot of taste while the part of the load furthest from the heater is still green, so I'm not using it much at the higher top end.
 

biohacker

Well-Known Member
What I do trust is the movement of the temps, and they dropped during my draw with the first several pulls and then stabilized during the draw after that.

Interesting, and kind of a bummer... was hoping that the beefed up heater would have been more stable right off the draw, but since it quickly does stabilize, i'm good with it.

I don't like it at 220C because of that charring. I like using it with whole nugs and I think it thoroughly extracts without the need for stirring. But when I go above 210C the bottom of the load scorches quicker and I lose a lot of taste while the part of the load furthest from the heater is still green, so I'm not using it much at the higher top end.

I guess the 220c would be great for micro dosing bong rips!

Thanks for reporting Sticks! :rockon:
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Interesting, and kind of a bummer... was hoping that the beefed up heater would have been more stable right off the draw, but since it quickly does stabilize, i'm good with it.

Actually it works the other way. A more powerful heater makes it less stable, all else being equal. Remember, it's an 'all or nothing' thing, like controlling your cars speed by flooring it or taking your foot off the gas (nothing 'in between' allowed).

In my youth a celebrated 'Lakester', or land speed record car was the Railston Special. The record is now held by Thrust SSC for the last 20 years or so at about 750 MPH, just under the speed of sound, powered by two Rolls Royce jet engines. Then ('between the wars') it was around 400 MPH and there was a 'war' between two sets of Brits. That can was a monster, it too used two of the biggest airplane engines available (light weight lots of power). In this case, two monster W bank engines (Like a V8 with another bank of four spliced on. Supercharged of course:
http://www.bluebird-electric.net/railton_mobil_special_john_cobb.htm

Mobil Oil took over and as expected painted their horse (Logo) on the nose used it in advertising? Great photo of it with the body off (held up by a bunch of guys) with a 'driver' with a white shirt and tie.....

Anyway, the tours involved actually putting it on the street in Paris! I recall reading an interview with the driver. They asked him how it was, he said 'scary' keeping a 400 MPH, 2,700 HP car under control in normal traffic...... He ran on only one engine (rear wheels, normally it was 4WD) and slipping the clutch at idle then dropping it into neutral to coast. Not an ideal setup to go get a six pack? A 28 HP Volkswagen was a better choice for that job? For sure the VW driver had less troubles.

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
@OF: don't you think they went full blown digital this time with proper PWM? Otherwise the temperature setting with 1 degree increment would be just a gimmick no?

I seriously doubt it, the thermal lags would make it not so useful I think. As it is there's dozens of degrees difference between the actual load temperature and the indicated temperature at the sensor?

And yes, I think it's 'a gimmick', that is it's showing what Sales says the customer is going to like. This usually takes the form of 'masking'. Watch the temperature rise on digital vapes carefully. First thing you'll see that if it takes one degree C steps it takes mostly two degrees F? That's because it's converting, there are 9 steps F for every 5 C (180F rise to boil water, 100C). There are only so many counts on the D/A. And then the modest drops in temperature we know are happening aren't displayed? It's not only not accurately displaying the load (as opposed to heater) temperature, but it's fibbing about unimportant things they don't want you to object to.

Thermal lags are a tough nut sometimes. For instance your home heater has energy stored in the unit and elsewhere in the system (ducts and such) that will be delivered after the thermostat shuts the heat off? This is compensated in manual systems by a small heater in the housing that makes the thermostat artificially hotter complete with 'first order' compensation for how long the heat has been on. Digital thermostats 'do it in software' by watching the rise over time, and in some cases modifying that based on history even. PID has to deal with this, duty cycle controls (like Solo and Air) simply use a 'deadband' with hysteresis used for stability (like your home heater). That is you might be set at 390F but it might heat to 395, shut off and coast to 300 or 305 before cooling off. It's then allowed to cool below the setpoint (390F) to say 385 before heat is again turned on. This 'deadband' keeps it from losing its mind at exactly 390F. At 390 the heater being on or off depends on what temperature it's coming from? In your home heater this is done with a magnet or a mercury switch (that shifts 'over center'). PID controls use the Proportional part to stop short and the Integrate part to reduce the error over time.

We shall see, but I don't expect proportional control, nor do I think it would give a practical improvement over vaping performance.

In our case the real temperature at the sensor is no doubt 'swinging' over a wider range than the load?

Bottom line doesn't change, the higher the power (faster slew rate) the less stable closed loop systems are. Oscillations can happen even, when it has the power on when it's already too hot and such when the 'phase angle of the error' exceeds 180 degrees and it starts 'chasing it's tail'. I'm sure we all know drivers that do that on the highway......some without the added help of a cell phone?

Fun stuff, at least for some of us guys that don't get out enough?

Yeah .... i agree here .. was hoping for full stability.

Exactly what I was afraid of ... I want PRECISION!

I'm sure you're not alone. I just question what that really is? There's likely to be the same issues with different controls since the basic system hasn't changed? No matter how tight you hold the cup, the load will 'sag' in temperature when hit and need time to recover.......it's conduction.....

OF
 

AJS

Calm Consistency
Interesting, and kind of a bummer... was hoping that the beefed up heater would have been more stable right off the draw, but since it quickly does stabilize, i'm good with it.
Yeah .... i agree here .. was hoping for full stability.

@OF: don't you think they went full blown digital this time with proper PWM? Otherwise the temperature setting with 1 degree increment would be just a gimmick no?
Exactly what I was afraid of ... I want PRECISION!
 

AJS

Calm Consistency
Found this this morning at 5 AM ... as you can tell I was feverishly waiting.
This means the Solo 2 is $249 CAD which is about $187 USD.

"Product: Arizer Solo II
Coupon Code: agracan420solo2
Coupon Value: $40
Extras Included Value: $47.41
Total 4/20 Discount Value: $87.41
Coupon Effective: April 18, 2017
Coupon Expiry: April 20, 2017 (4/20) Midnight"

 
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biohacker

Well-Known Member
Nice find @AJS ! :tup: Probably even a better deal than Arizer will provide (Agracan says they have the lowest price/best deals)! They have $13cdn GonG's (frosted) as well! And the zinc grinder might actually be decent? I'll still wait for Arizer to announce (expecting an email) and then settle up! Giddy up!

Also just curious @stickstones is there anything you like better about the Solo 1 in comparison? @Vitolo mentioned he prefers the OG oven and I think the Solo 1 overall?
 

BigJr48

Well-Known Member
Nice find @AJS ! :tup: Probably even a better deal than Arizer will provide (Agracan says they have the lowest price/best deals)! They have $13cdn GonG's (frosted) as well! And the zinc grinder might actually be decent? I'll still wait for Arizer to announce (expecting an email) and then settle up! Giddy up!

Also just curious @stickstones is there anything you like better about the Solo 1 in comparison? @Vitolo mentioned he prefers the OG oven and I think the Solo 1 overall?

I emailed sales@arizer.com in regards to 4/20 and their response was: "We do not currently have any sales or promotions planned" I hope things will change.
I'm curious to know if Agracan ships to the US and if their rates don't affect the 420 discount.
 

biohacker

Well-Known Member
Ofcourse Arizer will say that, they JUST released the Solo 2 and probably want people to buy it at their MSRP. I hope i'm wrong, and probably am, but it doesn't matter with a deal like Agracan has!

I have purchased many things from Agracan and they are awesome! They even allowed me a refund on an Arizer Air one time with a minimal restock fee! They always have the best rock bottom prices, and they are on eBay too.

Thanks AgraCan for bringing it! :rockon:
 

biohacker

Well-Known Member
Yeah, i'm just waiting until thursday and whoever has the best deal earns my $! Pretty sure it will be AgraCan with the extra goodies unless Arizer pulls something outta their ass (doubtful).

Then again, $250 may just become the new standard price for retailers in not much time?

FWIW this is from LAST YEAR:

Arizer the company is having 25% off sale 4/20 to 4/22 I believe. Nearly all units and parts,etc.
 
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$un

Well-Known Member
Currently https://agracan.com/ is having the best sales on Solo 2. Use coupon code agracan420solo2fc to get 45 CAD. This special offer is for FC members only & you will not find it on their website. The exchange rates change daily but going by today's rate you can order your Solo 2 for $182 USD shipped PLUS EXTRAS! This offer is live right now and will expire 4/20 midnight so get your orders in now if your looking for a good deal on the Solo 2. Shout out to Jack from agracan.com, I received excellent service from him :tup::rockon:


Just placed my order for the Solo 2 YAAAAAA BAAABY!! :clap::clap:
 

biohacker

Well-Known Member
WOW! Thanks for posting that! A little bit goes a long way! Jack is awesome I forgot his name but runs a tight ship!

It will be impossible for Arizer or anyone else to beat this deal IMHO. I hope you're prepared Jack! :tup:

And thanks for linking this thread from your website! Respect! :rockon:
 
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