• Do NOT click on any vaporpedia.com links. The domain has been compromised and will attempt to infect your system. See https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/warning-vaporpedia-com-has-been-compromised.54960/.

Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

farscaper

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a sick idea.

I'm looking to do a new build tomorrow. The only real problem I'm having is that if over load the coil with oil (anything more than a tiny bit), the oil melts down onto the deck. Is there a way to have a coil under the existing coil? I tried looking through all the pages, but can't quite find what I'm looking for. All I have to use is kanthal and silica.
just use a tool to put the oil back on from the deck... think of it like your dish. then you judt spoon on as much as you need directly to the coil... seems like once its on the deck there really isnt a way to get it back up onto the coil without doing so manually.

edit: on the subject of quartz cups... ive found about what im loonlking for... 6mm OD 4mm id (ithink) quartz test tubes... they are cheap enough to concider a case or two for replacements and FC friends... if/when I get to building some.

http://m.alibaba.com/product/1850154521/Transparent_One_end_Sealed_Quartz_Glass.html

so I guess I need an rba that can house a 6mm wick unknown height... and If looks are true the bottom is bullet shaped so a pancake coil would likely be unnecessary...

so im looking for a good vertical coil rba I guess?

may be worth while to house it in a globe... to get thw height desired.... any recommendations?
 
Last edited:

Roth

Pining for the Mountains
Hoping I can get a little bit of advice from you all. I'm looking to dip my toes into the RBA world and could use a little guidance.

Currently, I've been using some e-juice made with EJMix in a variety of clearomizers. The main issue I have is that leaks are far too common for me. I'm in a very hot environment, and sometimes my equipment will be exposed to 100° F heat (not often, but it will happen). My main clearomizer I've been using has been an Aerotank Mini. I've been storing it upside down in attempt to prevent it leaking out of the battery connection. It worked for a bit, until I started to get leaks out of the drip tip! At this point I'm fed up with all clearomizers, there has to be a better way.

I just need something that has a tank (no dripping), looks like an ecig for stealth purposes, and DOESN'T LEAK. I've wasted too much money in leaks.

I'm hoping that if I move to something like the Kayfun 3.1, Kayfun Lite Plus v2, or the Kayfun Mini 2.1, that I can eliminate the leaks I've been experiencing. I'm thinking the higher deck will help some? I read through the Kayfun manual and it mentioned storing it upside down when encountering temperature/pressure changes.

From what I can tell, really the only difference between the 3.1 and Lite is the collection tank at the bottom of the 3.1. Is that correct? Have people found the collection tank to be useful/necessary? I'd ideally like to get the Kayfun Mini, as I much prefer the 14mm form factor over 22mm. My only worry about the Mini is too tight of a deck to really work with. Anyone have experience with the Mini?

Regarding wicks, I was planning on using some READYxWICK based on the positive reviews I've seen on here. I was planning on getting some of the 2mm READYxWICK.

Was leaning towards 32 gauge Kanthal to get a higher resistance with less coils, especially if I go with the Kayfun Mini.

For right now, I'll continue to use the Kayfun with my Inokin iTaste VV V3.0.

I know @215z has experience with both Kayfuns and Aerotanks, I'd greatly appreciate your insight.

I'm just trying to make sure I'm on the right path here, any and all criticisms are welcome.

Thanks everyone!
 
Last edited:
Roth,

chronickiller7

Well-Known Member
just use a tool to put the oil back on from the deck... think of it like your dish. then you judt spoon on as much as you need directly to the coil... seems like once its on the deck there really isnt a way to get it back up onto the coil without doing so manually

Ah, that's what I've been doing. Guess I just need to build a bigger/different coil that can handle bigger dabs. Does ss mesh not absorb oil well or at all?



Hoping I can get a little bit of advice from you all. I'm looking to dip my toes into the RBA world and could use a little guidance.

Currently, I've been using some e-juice made with EJMix in a variety of clearomizers. The main issue I have is that leaks are far too common for me.

Are you trying to use EJMix with the Kayfun? I don't have any personal experience with EJMix, but I am familiar with it. Wouldn't building a coil or something to put oil directly on to be easier than having to mix your oil with juice, only to deal with leaks and/or the mixture separating?
 
chronickiller7,

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Ah, that's what I've been doing. Guess I just need to build a bigger/different coil that can handle bigger dabs. Does ss mesh not absorb oil well or at all?





Are you trying to use EJMix with the Kayfun? I don't have any personal experience with EJMix, but I am familiar with it. Wouldn't building a coil or something to put oil directly on to be easier than having to mix your oil with juice, only to deal with leaks and/or the mixture separating?
If you're familiar with EJMix you'd know that it doesn't separate as opposed to VG/PG.
 
Quetzalcoatl,
  • Like
Reactions: Roth

chronickiller7

Well-Known Member
If you're familiar with EJMix you'd know that it doesn't separate as opposed to VG/PG.

I knew that was its purpose, I just didn't know how well it worked. But as far as tank rda/rbas go, my favorite is the Russian 91%. I have one, but I only use it for e juice.


On a side note, can a coil be touching the deck? Or would it not fire? I was thinking of just lowering my coil as close to the deck, so that it just heats the oil on the deck. Would this work?
 
Last edited:
chronickiller7,

Roth

Pining for the Mountains
Ah, that's what I've been doing. Guess I just need to build a bigger/different coil that can handle bigger dabs. Does ss mesh not absorb oil well or at all?





Are you trying to use EJMix with the Kayfun? I don't have any personal experience with EJMix, but I am familiar with it. Wouldn't building a coil or something to put oil directly on to be easier than having to mix your oil with juice, only to deal with leaks and/or the mixture separating?

One reason, stealth. I don't live in an enlightened state, I need something that can pass for an ecig. Texas doesn't take kindly to that whacky tobaccy.

And EJMix won't separate on you. It truly is a product that performs as advertised.
 

chronickiller7

Well-Known Member
I gotta give it a try then! I still have my old ego bat and pro tank mini 3. I just gotta see how to exactly mix it up. I assume I have to melt down my shatter/wax/whatever?
 
chronickiller7,

chronickiller7

Well-Known Member
I find oil hits off SS mesh to be the harshest of all wick media. I think it is because of its potential to have hotter dry spots than other media. I think you shouldn't change out your current wick, at least while you are still recovering.

Pulse your coil a few times with the cap off to warm them up, then use a dab tool to "paint" the coils with oil. Take a hit and hopefully it will get you there. If you need to vape larger amounts of oil, call your local ecig stores to see if they have FC-2000 wick. It is this black porous ceramic rod that can hold a good amount of oil, and is way more gentle to vape of than SS mesh.

Sorry to quote an old post, but none of my local shops carry FC-2000 wick. This wick reminds me of a wick I think I saw for the SR-74 by W9 tech. I do have a persei unit, I don't have any carts or atomizers. Would it be worth getting the SR-74? Or can I build something way better for 100?

I should add that my optimal set up would allow me to take medium-big dabs, with minimal waste. I'm not trying to pack a days worth into a tank.


Edit: After really going through previous pages, I noticed the Ready Wick ceramic wick. Does this affect taste at all? Does it wick bho the best?
 
Last edited:
chronickiller7,

fernand

Well-Known Member
On a side note, can a coil be touching the deck? Or would it not fire? I was thinking of just lowering my coil as close to the deck, so that it just heats the oil on the deck. Would this work?
Not likely very well unless you can heat the whole deck!
 
fernand,

chronickiller7

Well-Known Member
Not likely very well unless you can heat the whole deck!
Perhaps that was my plan! Hahahaha, but actually, I think going to order some of that ready wick and wrap a coil around it. What size kanthal should I use? And should it be flat kanthal? Also, what resistance is optimal for vaping medium to big dabs? But is ready wick the best stuff at the moment? I think I'm going to pickup some UpTech Ti-Kiss Carts to see how they perform. Would it be worth getting a thread adapter so that I can use the carts on my k100+ mod instead of the persei unit?
 
chronickiller7,

DabComa

Stuck in Dab Coma
Some coils can touch the deck, it really all depends on how the atty is set up (as in build and current path) I know in the case of my igo-w, the deck is non conductive so the coil can touch, without any issues. On the other hand, one of my kayfun clones decks was conductive, so touching a coil to the deck would result in shorting. The easiest way to determine if it's safe or not is to hook it up to an ohm meter and verify that touching the coil to the deck will not result in resistance fluctuations, if the resistance holds steady solid, the deck is non conductive.

As for SS mesh Vs. READYXWICK, NOT EVEN a competition, READYXWICK all day every day, the difference is night and day. Wicks amazing, tastes phenomenal, and never ever ever ever a burnt wick taste.
 

chronickiller7

Well-Known Member
Some coils can touch the deck, it really all depends on how the atty is set up (as in build and current path) I know in the case of my igo-w, the deck is non conductive so the coil can touch, without any issues. On the other hand, one of my kayfun clones decks was conductive, so touching a coil to the deck would result in shorting. The easiest way to determine if it's safe or not is to hook it up to an ohm meter and verify that touching the coil to the deck will not result in resistance fluctuations, if the resistance holds steady solid, the deck is non conductive.

As for SS mesh Vs. READYXWICK, NOT EVEN a competition, READYXWICK all day every day, the difference is night and day. Wicks amazing, tastes phenomenal, and never ever ever ever a burnt wick taste.

Yeah I noticed a fair amount of bad taste when the ss mesh gets low on oil. Does the ready wick really absorb the oil so much better? Like with the setup I currently have, with a single coil, would oil no longer drip onto my deck?
 
chronickiller7,

DabComa

Stuck in Dab Coma
I always prime my coils On fresh packs, to make sure it absorbed into the coil rather then flash heating it off. So deck cleanup for me is usually maybe every four to five packs, I scoop everything off and have that as an extra pack every few times, but I also run dual coils touching the deck, so most if any run off makes its way back into a heating element. I think that deck cleanup has much more to do with coil set up and packing method then it does wicking material itself, after all everything available for wicking will work, now for me it's become a difference in longevity and taste performance. Blah blah blah, something wise and important, lol.
 

2clicker

Observer
has anyone successfully rebuilt a kanger aero head with readyxwicks?

i have not rebuilt the new kanger heads (dual coil sealed), but i have rebuilt the open style kanger heads with readyX and it works beautifully.

on another note brother Mephisto has sent me an assortment of goodies to experiment with. in the package was an Oreico Storm-A atty, some FC-2000 rigid wick, and some kanthal. so basically i will be attemtpting to build coils around the FC-2000 and then have those coils sit inside the resivior in the deck of the Storm-A. this should keep the oil in place and near the coil. i will be posting results after testing. holefully i will have time to get this done the next couple of days. stay tuned.
 
2clicker,
  • Like
Reactions: Globbs

davidwu

Well-Known Member
Been running a wickless coil for the last couple of weeks and have found a winner until I build something better (likely just improvements upon this one).

Take a look on YouTube for the ".24ohm Wickless Coil" and build... then take the idea and play with it. Currently I am running a twisted, twisted 24g and twisted .8mm flat, with a 30g wrap around. Then... I add twist.... wick a piece of SS rope. If you are smart about your dab size, you don't have to put the coil so close to the deck. I've found claim only occurs when I've loaded too much or haven't run a cleaning before the next dab. Cleaning consists of a quick dry burn and a few seconds after the cleaning, the coil is nice and warm to apply the next dab. I found slightly melting the dab to/into the oil works best. Then hit the mod with six or so .5-1 second pulses and continue the drag as long as you can.

You will have to have a good open RDA with with HUGE ass post holes or the ability to drill out the ones you've got. I have found the Mephisto to be the best RDA for this so far in a 22mm config and the Stiliare to be the best in a 28.8mm config. The larger RDA makes loading and getting the "lost" dab every six or eight dabs, while the smaller one makes for better flavor. Both create HUGE clouds and easily get me more medicated that a nail or swing arm. I've got several (~10) Toros and other somewhat expensive oil rigs sitting, collecting dust since I have found this wickless coil. I cannot seem to get as medicated with the Ti as I can with this setup!

Playing with wicks, I found the SS rope to be better than the x-116, but I keep experimenting. I'd like to run an over cover on the SS rope that gets inserted into the wickless coil, but the coil starts getting too big. So far it's one or the other. Hopefully they come out with smaller x-116.... maybe 1mm?

I also think an oval coil might be interesting, but need to find me some good small oval mandrels.

I'd guess that I have personally run 10+ grams on these wickless coils and can't say anything negative about them... even my first tries replicating the YouTube one were stellar. I have also found getting the build in the .19 range seems to work best, YMMV.

Being close to the deck and/or running such a low ohm build isn't safe.... especially for an intoxicated individual. You will not be easily breaking coils and that might inspire the confidence to be even less careful. I suggest that you understand sub ohm vaping before trying this one at home.

And one last thing.... once I find my perfection... I may never have to build another coil again, they are that durable, unlike what you can buy off the shelf.
 
davidwu,

chronickiller7

Well-Known Member
Is this what your talking about?
I ripped out the coils in my setup, as it tasted/hit horribly. I really want to build your coil today. But will it work in an IGO-W? Can you post some pics? And is it wickless? You said you used some ss rope? I have been using ss mesh, which I believe is the source of bad taste in my rda. None of my local shops carry ceramic or ss rope. Just silica, and kanthal (normal and flat). Anything I can have them build that will hit as nice as what you guys are getting?

Edit: Is there anywhere to get ss rope? Like home depot or a hardware store?
 
chronickiller7,

2clicker

Observer
Is this what your talking about?
I ripped out the coils in my setup, as it tasted/hit horribly. I really want to build your coil today. But will it work in an IGO-W? Can you post some pics? And is it wickless? You said you used some ss rope? I have been using ss mesh, which I believe is the source of bad taste in my rda. None of my local shops carry ceramic or ss rope. Just silica, and kanthal (normal and flat). Anything I can have them build that will hit as nice as what you guys are getting?

Edit: Is there anywhere to get ss rope? Like home depot or a hardware store?

i cant imagine that braided SS is going to taste any different than SS mesh but its worth a shot i suppose. SS mesh is a horrible choice for a wick.

and dont use silica because it can burn. ceramic is your best friend for a dabbers RDA. nothing even comes close from a flavor standpoint, it cant be burned, and can be self cleaned. not sure there are other options that would be better. always looking tho!
 
2clicker,

215z

Well-Known Member
@Roth I have alot fewer leaks and flooding issues with the KFL than the Aerotank. I don't think it is the raised deck (I mentioned it before), but the raised air tube that really helps with this issue. I'm getting better with the Aerotank but I still get lots of leaks, especially after I fill the tank. It works well with little juice in it, but that makes the tank kind of pointless. I use storebought meds, so leaks are very expensive for me, beyond being a source of irritation.
7NsnVDQtKqht.jpg

As for KFL+ vs KF3.1, the air intake system is such that you can break it down and wipe up reclaim there. The KFL+ is shorter, dispensing with the fancy air intake system, and uses a side venthole. If it leaks, it will leak out the side. The good news is I have gotten zero leaks after my first snafu overfilling. As you can see from the pic, the build deck has to flood SO MUCH before any of it ends up in the air hole. If you do go the KFL route, I suggest getting an EHPro clone rather than the Tobeco clone, the difference in machining quality is worth the few bucks in retail price.

@chronickiller7 you do not want your coil touching your steel deck. You will short out your coils. You run a mechanical mod, so you have no backup protection. You can be careful in always metering your aty before firing up the battery, but you have nothing protecting you from intermittent transient shorts that may occur if your coils move a little. Ceramic decks, on the other hand, do not have this problem. You mentioned flat kanthal earlier, and I had mentioned the Immortalizer RDA (and its clones) as having a ceramic deck. The Immortalizer happens to be designed for use with flat/ribbon wire, and its hole posts are suited to it. The clones for this RDA from Fasttech tend to have very poor QC.

You are new to this thread and want to remind you that people are discussing two different vaping paradigms in the same thread:
e-dabbing onto coils
tank set ups with passive wicking
hybrid setups with a wick but no tank

This thread was started by @TrueNorthStar who took a less elegant approach to the e-nail. He uses a hot coil low on the deck, and fills his deck with concentrate, then pulls the trigger. Concentrate that isn't immediately vaporized by the intense heat melts and pools on the floor of the deck. It gets me hella high but the burnt tasting yuck at the bottom of the deck is good concentrate gone to waste.
LrvMaLG6j3-a.jpg



2clicker has a better e-nail setup. It is a flat spiral coil, and he sleeves his coil in voven ceramic fabric. He drops errl on the sleeved coil and pulls the trigger. Concentrate that isn't immediately vaporized by the intense heat melt into the fabric rather than dripping onto the deck.
KmV8CajCeGo0.jpg

Then there are the tank people. They use a smaller heating element, that only needs to vape a little at a time. Using a passive wick, the atomizer is continuously fed with more concentrate, so they can hold the trigger down and take hits as big as their lungs allow. (or until their regulated mod timeout kicks in). These people need a wick that can MOVE warm concentrate well. Braided ceramic is the wick of choice here, because it can move concentrate as well as natural fibers do, but can doesn't burn, and doesn't taste yucky when hit dry (like silica). In a tank setup, there are always intermittent dry spots, especially if the wick isn't warm enough to get concentrate to flow.

Finally there are the hybrid folks. They use a smaller heating element like the tank people do, that only needs to vape a little at a time. Using a wick longer than the heating element itself, they can load the whole wick with concentrate. As a bonus, the wick sits on the deck of the floor, mopping up any excess concentrate. This is alot like how the micro-skillets work, except micro-skillets tend to be really small and cheaply made. And micro-skillets have small wicks that don't sit in the juicewell. Porous ceramic rod is the wick of choice here, because it can hold alot of oil, and doesn't need to move it very much. This approach is most akin to the "ecig dripper".


That brings me to you. My initial comments to you were directed at your situation: You needed a solution to inhale concentrate ASAP because you couldn't use your nail rig. The easiest thing to do is load some concentrate on top of your coils and hit the trigger. As you noticed, there is only so much oil you can load at a time, without getting it on your cotton wick. If you did have ceramic rod around, it would have been an easy rebuild for you - you could have kept your coils. Your rods could be as long as your deck is wide. You would then load concentrate onto the entire heated rod. If you placed the rod at an angle, you could have one end sit on the floor of your deck.

If you are willing to dedicate a your RDA to concentrate (you still need to get your nic' somewhere), the best approach is @2clicker's e-nail. It did take me like a week to get my order from RBASUPPLIES though.
 

2clicker

Observer
@Roth I have alot fewer leaks and flooding issues with the KFL than the Aerotank. I don't think it is the raised deck (I mentioned it before), but the raised air tube that really helps with this issue. I'm getting better with the Aerotank but I still get lots of leaks, especially after I fill the tank. It works well with little juice in it, but that makes the tank kind of pointless. I use storebought meds, so leaks are very expensive for me, beyond being a source of irritation.
7NsnVDQtKqht.jpg

As for KFL+ vs KF3.1, the air intake system is such that you can break it down and wipe up reclaim there. The KFL+ is shorter, dispensing with the fancy air intake system, and uses a side venthole. If it leaks, it will leak out the side. The good news is I have gotten zero leaks after my first snafu overfilling. As you can see from the pic, the build deck has to flood SO MUCH before any of it ends up in the air hole. If you do go the KFL route, I suggest getting an EHPro clone rather than the Tobeco clone, the difference in machining quality is worth the few bucks in retail price.

@chronickiller7 you do not want your coil touching your steel deck. You will short out your coils. You run a mechanical mod, so you have no backup protection. You can be careful in always metering your aty before firing up the battery, but you have nothing protecting you from intermittent transient shorts that may occur if your coils move a little. Ceramic decks, on the other hand, do not have this problem. You mentioned flat kanthal earlier, and I had mentioned the Immortalizer RDA (and its clones) as having a ceramic deck. The Immortalizer happens to be designed for use with flat/ribbon wire, and its hole posts are suited to it. The clones for this RDA from Fasttech tend to have very poor QC.

You are new to this thread and want to remind you that people are discussing two different vaping paradigms in the same thread:
e-dabbing onto coils
tank set ups with passive wicking
hybrid setups with a wick but no tank

This thread was started by @TrueNorthStar who took a less elegant approach to the e-nail. He uses a hot coil low on the deck, and fills his deck with concentrate, then pulls the trigger. Concentrate that isn't immediately vaporized by the intense heat melts and pools on the floor of the deck. It gets me hella high but the burnt tasting yuck at the bottom of the deck is good concentrate gone to waste.
LrvMaLG6j3-a.jpg



2clicker has a better e-nail setup. It is a flat spiral coil, and he sleeves his coil in voven ceramic fabric. He drops errl on the sleeved coil and pulls the trigger. Concentrate that isn't immediately vaporized by the intense heat melt into the fabric rather than dripping onto the deck.
KmV8CajCeGo0.jpg

Then there are the tank people. They use a smaller heating element, that only needs to vape a little at a time. Using a passive wick, the atomizer is continuously fed with more concentrate, so they can hold the trigger down and take hits as big as their lungs allow. (or until their regulated mod timeout kicks in). These people need a wick that can MOVE warm concentrate well. Braided ceramic is the wick of choice here, because it can move concentrate as well as natural fibers do, but can doesn't burn, and doesn't taste yucky when hit dry (like silica). In a tank setup, there are always intermittent dry spots, especially if the wick isn't warm enough to get concentrate to flow.

Finally there are the hybrid folks. They use a smaller heating element like the tank people do, that only needs to vape a little at a time. Using a wick longer than the heating element itself, they can load the whole wick with concentrate. As a bonus, the wick sits on the deck of the floor, mopping up any excess concentrate. This is alot like how the micro-skillets work, except micro-skillets tend to be really small and cheaply made. And micro-skillets have small wicks that don't sit in the juicewell. Porous ceramic rod is the wick of choice here, because it can hold alot of oil, and doesn't need to move it very much. This approach is most akin to the "ecig dripper".


That brings me to you. My initial comments to you were directed at your situation: You needed a solution to inhale concentrate ASAP because you couldn't use your nail rig. The easiest thing to do is load some concentrate on top of your coils and hit the trigger. As you noticed, there is only so much oil you can load at a time, without getting it on your cotton wick. If you did have ceramic rod around, it would have been an easy rebuild for you - you could have kept your coils. Your rods could be as long as your deck is wide. You would then load concentrate onto the entire heated rod. If you placed the rod at an angle, you could have one end sit on the floor of your deck.

If you are willing to dedicate a your RDA to concentrate (you still need to get your nic' somewhere), the best approach is @2clicker's e-nail. It did take me like a week to get my order from RBASUPPLIES though.

nice post! i have a new build coming, but i do not expect it to perform up to the level of the diamondback coil (official name now). i do expect it to work pretty damn well though.

a week for RBASupplies order..? wow my orders usually only take a couple of days.

this thread is great!
 
Last edited:

chronickiller7

Well-Known Member
I ripped out my quad coil setup after I went through half a gram of wax on saturday. The clouds were huge, but conservation wise it was not an optimal setup. I made the switch back to a dual coil setup, except I switched the diameter of my coils. Previously I went with 2mm (one wick) for each coil, but this setup is 3mm (two wicks) with 10 wraps each (1 ohm). This is the easiest setup for loading up, the extra surface area allows for globs to be loaded up and minimal dripping onto the deck. I think this setup might stay with me for more than a week.
UVdXBMt.jpg

Hi everyone... after reading this entire thread, I thought I'd contribute a bit. I used to use a simple coil+cotton setup for dabbing on the go, but it sucked... the concentrates would eventually gum up the cotton, and I wouldn't get as much out of it. Here's some pics of that setup: http://imgur.com/a/mZg11

My setup for my one-hitter-quitter is a dual stovetop coil on my igo-w. Hits super hard, and nothing has a chance to fall to the deck. Even if it does, it gets vaped by the coil right on top of it.

XdcmagN.jpg

I'm going to build one these today, until I get my (soon to be ordered) Ready X Wick. I'm thinking the stovetop would work the best for what I want for now.
 
chronickiller7,

Roth

Pining for the Mountains
@Roth I have alot fewer leaks and flooding issues with the KFL than the Aerotank. I don't think it is the raised deck (I mentioned it before), but the raised air tube that really helps with this issue. I'm getting better with the Aerotank but I still get lots of leaks, especially after I fill the tank. It works well with little juice in it, but that makes the tank kind of pointless. I use storebought meds, so leaks are very expensive for me, beyond being a source of irritation.
7NsnVDQtKqht.jpg

As for KFL+ vs KF3.1, the air intake system is such that you can break it down and wipe up reclaim there. The KFL+ is shorter, dispensing with the fancy air intake system, and uses a side venthole. If it leaks, it will leak out the side. The good news is I have gotten zero leaks after my first snafu overfilling. As you can see from the pic, the build deck has to flood SO MUCH before any of it ends up in the air hole. If you do go the KFL route, I suggest getting an EHPro clone rather than the Tobeco clone, the difference in machining quality is worth the few bucks in retail price.

@chronickiller7 you do not want your coil touching your steel deck. You will short out your coils. You run a mechanical mod, so you have no backup protection. You can be careful in always metering your aty before firing up the battery, but you have nothing protecting you from intermittent transient shorts that may occur if your coils move a little. Ceramic decks, on the other hand, do not have this problem. You mentioned flat kanthal earlier, and I had mentioned the Immortalizer RDA (and its clones) as having a ceramic deck. The Immortalizer happens to be designed for use with flat/ribbon wire, and its hole posts are suited to it. The clones for this RDA from Fasttech tend to have very poor QC.

You are new to this thread and want to remind you that people are discussing two different vaping paradigms in the same thread:
e-dabbing onto coils
tank set ups with passive wicking
hybrid setups with a wick but no tank

This thread was started by @TrueNorthStar who took a less elegant approach to the e-nail. He uses a hot coil low on the deck, and fills his deck with concentrate, then pulls the trigger. Concentrate that isn't immediately vaporized by the intense heat melts and pools on the floor of the deck. It gets me hella high but the burnt tasting yuck at the bottom of the deck is good concentrate gone to waste.
LrvMaLG6j3-a.jpg



2clicker has a better e-nail setup. It is a flat spiral coil, and he sleeves his coil in voven ceramic fabric. He drops errl on the sleeved coil and pulls the trigger. Concentrate that isn't immediately vaporized by the intense heat melt into the fabric rather than dripping onto the deck.
KmV8CajCeGo0.jpg

Then there are the tank people. They use a smaller heating element, that only needs to vape a little at a time. Using a passive wick, the atomizer is continuously fed with more concentrate, so they can hold the trigger down and take hits as big as their lungs allow. (or until their regulated mod timeout kicks in). These people need a wick that can MOVE warm concentrate well. Braided ceramic is the wick of choice here, because it can move concentrate as well as natural fibers do, but can doesn't burn, and doesn't taste yucky when hit dry (like silica). In a tank setup, there are always intermittent dry spots, especially if the wick isn't warm enough to get concentrate to flow.

Finally there are the hybrid folks. They use a smaller heating element like the tank people do, that only needs to vape a little at a time. Using a wick longer than the heating element itself, they can load the whole wick with concentrate. As a bonus, the wick sits on the deck of the floor, mopping up any excess concentrate. This is alot like how the micro-skillets work, except micro-skillets tend to be really small and cheaply made. And micro-skillets have small wicks that don't sit in the juicewell. Porous ceramic rod is the wick of choice here, because it can hold alot of oil, and doesn't need to move it very much. This approach is most akin to the "ecig dripper".


That brings me to you. My initial comments to you were directed at your situation: You needed a solution to inhale concentrate ASAP because you couldn't use your nail rig. The easiest thing to do is load some concentrate on top of your coils and hit the trigger. As you noticed, there is only so much oil you can load at a time, without getting it on your cotton wick. If you did have ceramic rod around, it would have been an easy rebuild for you - you could have kept your coils. Your rods could be as long as your deck is wide. You would then load concentrate onto the entire heated rod. If you placed the rod at an angle, you could have one end sit on the floor of your deck.

If you are willing to dedicate a your RDA to concentrate (you still need to get your nic' somewhere), the best approach is @2clicker's e-nail. It did take me like a week to get my order from RBASUPPLIES though.


MANY thanks for the reply, everything seems a little bit clearer to me now.

I think I'm going to go with the Kayfun 3.1 to start with. I'm thinking the collection tank will be worth the extra length. I think if it saves me some liquid just once, I'll be happy to have had it. Honestly, it's not the length that's undesirable to me, it's the 22mm diameter. If the 3.1 proves to be a leak free performer for me, I'll go ahead and pick up a Mini 2.1 for the 14mm form factor.

Thanks for the EHPro vs Tobeco tip too.

Going to get some READYxWICK and 32 gauge Kanthal on order too.

Really hoping this is a real solution for me.
 

chronickiller7

Well-Known Member

So I decided to just buy some material and just fuck around and make some coils. Ended up making a twisted 28g kanthal coil. 8 wraps. Came to .85ohms. No wick. Tastes good. Minimal waste so far. I asked my local vape shop about ready wick and they said its dangerous if not properly treated. And that most of it isn't. Any confirmation on the health/quality control on this ready wick?
 
chronickiller7,
  • Like
Reactions: Puffers

Roth

Pining for the Mountains
Do people prefer the 3mm or 2mm ReadyxWick for use in a Kayfun 3.1, or any RBA for that matter?
 
Roth,
Top Bottom