Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

[Deleted Member 1643]

Gripe with DCC is that it's not concentrated, so it's relatively expensive. Actually, just picked up Branson OR oxide remover made for ultrasonic cleaner use. It will last a lot longer and hopefully, work even better. Always use ISO and salt for glass, but haven't used glass since getting the one-hitter working.

This had the prettiest blue inner coils, but you can't really see it. It's a tight level 3 from 26G tri-braid. Produces great flavor in TC using the SS316L preset. No idea how that happened.

 

[2clicker]

Gripe with DCC is that it's not concentrated, so it's relatively expensive. Actually, just picked up Branson OR oxide remover made for ultrasonic cleaner use. It will last a lot longer and hopefully, work even better. Always use ISO and salt for glass, but haven't used glass since getting the one-hitter working.

This had the prettiest blue inner coils, but you can't really see it. It's a tight level 3 from 26G tri-braid. Produces great flavor in TC using the SS316L preset. No idea how that happened.

oxide remover? works well for SS and safe for our use? sounds perfect. im gonna test it by torching a piece of 316L letting it get really oxidized and see how clean i can get it.

and why not use glass with your one hitter quitter? you can easily use an oring or piece of tubing to seal the drip tip of the atty to the gong of the glass. another reason why a wicking coil is ideal... it can be ripped upside down without losing the dab.

and why are you suprised youre getting good flavor from the 316L setting? isnt that whats its for? sorry im hungover today so maybe im missing something here...?

oh and what RDA is that??? interesting deck and “post” configuration. very interested!

 

[Vapology]

I would love to see a melt shot or some pictures from your dabbing mesh in action
(Edit: always a step ahead - Accept started 'vandy vape mesh' with pictures)

That seems to be an exciting new idea to vaporize concentrates with an rda the easy way - I like that and it doesn't take as much time as @Accept's great alien inception coil project

Sad to hear that the vandy vape mesh rda won't work properly with my evic vtwo mini.

 

[2clicker]

I would love to see a melt shot or some pictures from your dabbing mesh in action
(Edit: always a step ahead - Accept started 'vandy vape mesh' with pictures)

That seems to be an exciting new idea to vaporize concentrates with an rda the easy way - I like that and it doesn't take as much time as @Accept's great alien inception coil project

Sad to hear that the vandy vape mesh rda won't work properly with my evic vtwo mini.

well that may be because of the size of mesh they supply with the RDA. ive got a feeling that mesh made from a similar diameter to the wire we use will be the sweet spot. even with my DNA device i cant seem to not get the dull red glow. it seems it only happens to the portion of the mesh that has any residue left from the dab. i can see the residue and then can see the glow come over that part of the mesh. and that basically is butning off whatever was left from the dab. this is bad imo. for my use anyway. i dont want any chance of catching any of that in the tail end of a rip. i dont want that at all.

again i feel the reason for this over heating is because of the diameter of the wire in the mesh supplied by Vandy Vape. it is very fine. and its woven together tightly. i think we need more porosity and larger wire diameter for mesh to work well with concentrates.

i reached out to the only source i could find that offers many sizes of 316L mesh. they def make mesh that would be made of say 28g wire. maybe even 26g. i think that is when we see these devices be able to regulate its temp more efficiently with mesh. emailed them last thursday and haven’t received a reply yet. looks like ill have to call.

i could wrong about the wire diameter, but its the only thing i can think of.

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

oxide remover? works well for SS and safe for our use? sounds perfect. im gonna test it by torching a piece of 316L letting it get really oxidized and see how clean i can get it.

Will take care to purge this solution before use, just in case.

and why not use glass with your one hitter quitter? you can easily use an oring or piece of tubing to seal the drip tip of the atty to the gong of the glass. another reason why a wicking coil is ideal... it can be ripped upside down without losing the dab.

Because glass isn't needed. The hits are deceptively light. 20mg in a quick, easy draw. Hold it, if you like. No coughing. Tellin' ya, somebody needs to try this.

and why are you suprised youre getting good flavor from the 316L setting? isnt that whats its for? sorry im hungover today so maybe im missing something here...?

Each level diminishes in heat from the preceding one - like a stove-top. What does the temperature setting mean with a coil like this? Sometimes need to raise the TCR, sometimes lower. No idea why, but sure there's a scientific explanation. This one is just right.

oh and what RDA is that??? interesting deck and “post” configuration. very interested!

It's Tendou's Tokugawa. Perfect for these builds. Voluminous, 3D space and great airflow. About 70USD.

I would love to see a melt shot or some pictures from your dabbing mesh in action
(Edit: always a step ahead - Accept started 'vandy vape mesh' with pictures)

Here, here! Does it look the same?

That seems to be an exciting new idea to vaporize concentrates with an rda the easy way - I like that and it doesn't take as much time as @Accept's great alien inception coil project

A very cool method, IMO. Ideal for travel. Wonder if you could pre-pack dabs? Maybe sandwich a dab between two strips of mesh. Load and go.

You're missing the point, @Vapology. There is no dab more satisfying than the one after thirty minutes spent wrapping one of these coils. It's like fly-fishing. Half the fun is tying the flies, and the other is testing them.

even with my DNA device i cant seem to not get the dull red glow. it seems it only happens to the portion of the mesh that has any residue left from the dab. i can see the residue and then can see the glow come over that part of the mesh. and that basically is butning off whatever was left from the dab. this is bad imo. for my use anyway. i dont want any chance of catching any of that in the tail end of a rip. i dont want that at all.

Sorry to hear that, but not surprised. Have you tried programming? Do you think that the residue is causing the glow or that the same thing caused both the residue and the glow?

Happen to have a strip of mesh with a little residue on it. On the EHPro, at 450F (90W), can't see any glow at all with the lights out.

again i feel the reason for this over heating is because of the diameter of the wire in the mesh supplied by Vandy Vape. it is very fine. and its woven together tightly. i think we need more porosity and larger wire diameter for mesh to work well with concentrates.

The DNA chip has something to do with it, but you may be right that it will perform more reliably with different mesh.

 

[2clicker]

Will take care to purge this solution before use, just in case.

gotcha. ill keep on eye on this.

Because glass isn't needed. The hits are deceptively light. 20mg in a quick, easy draw. Hold it, if you like. No coughing. Tellin' ya, somebody needs to try this.

oh i see. i use glass sometimes just to use glass. not always to cool the rip. btw which coil is this working well with? that tribraid stovetop? or the alien level 3?

Each level diminishes in heat from the preceding one - like a stove-top. What does the temperature setting mean with a coil like this? Sometimes need to raise the TCR, sometimes lower. No idea why, but sure there's a scientific explanation. This one is just right.

well it would mean that the hottest wire would be accurately TC’d and the others would be less than that. should still work, but yeah not all wires firing at the same temp. and again this is the tribraid stovetop we are talking about here?

It's Tendou's Tokugawa. Perfect for these builds. Voluminous, 3D space and great airflow. About 70USD.

thank you! i like the looks of it. it may limit the type of coil that can be used, but looks extremely ideal for stovetop builds. what is the ID inside those “posts”. whats the build deck size?

Sorry to hear that, but not surprised. Have you tried programming? Do you think that the residue is causing the glow or that the same thing caused both the residue and the glow?

Happen to have a strip of mesh with a little residue on it. On the EHPro, at 450F (90W), can't see any glow at all with the lights out.

so your EHPro vaped the dab and just stopped? no burning smell or glow at all eh?

i can say that this DNA chip works quite differently from what im used to and last night figured out a couple of things. like NOT to lock cold coil resistance when running in TC mode. which i still dont quite understand, but that is what Evolv is telling me. that you only lock the ohms when working with an atty with a suspect connection. that ohm lock should never be used when running normally in TC. since making the change i am getting better results. i was able to get into Eascribe and set up 6 profiles that are giving me a VERY satisfying vape. on a wire build mind you. i still say that the diameter of the wire used to make the mesh that comes with the VVM is the culprit for this over heating. i say this because its the same on my DNA chip as it is on both of my Joyetech chips. i get the perfect dab, followed by a red glow that sort of “flows” through the mesh exactly where the residue is. then the residue turns black and smells like shit. i have never experienced this with any wire build. only the mesh. and on all of my devices. its gotta be the mesh.

The DNA chip has something to do with it, but you may be right that it will perform more reliably with different mesh.

see above. im hoping to get ahold of someone at that place i found offering 316L mesh with a larger wire diameter. shouldnt be that hard right? lol google it for yourself!

316L mesh is hard to locate.

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

btw which coil is this working well with? that tribraid stovetop? or the alien level 3?

Only the tri-braid works at the SS316L preset. This is also a level 3 inception, not a stove-top. With the aliens, had to adjust the TCR by feel, either doubling or halving until the 200F-600F range was useful. The range is especially good with the tri-braid. At 600F, it's much like a low-temp dab - just unwanted residue appears to be remain on the coil

what is the ID inside those “posts”. whats the build deck size?

About 19mm. The "posts" are just the wall of the deck with holes drilled in the top for screws. It features a large bottom airflow pipe that can't be seen above. This can be plugged, if desired, but never had leaking through it.

so your EHPro vaped the dab and just stopped? no burning smell or glow at all eh?

That's right.

since making the change i am getting better results.

Good to hear!

its gotta be the mesh.

Disagree. It's possible that neither the DNA nor Joyetech chips work well with the Vandy Mesh, for the same or different reasons, at least not without typical e-juice wicking. Have had no problems with the EHPro.

im hoping to get ahold of someone at that place i found offering 316L mesh with a larger wire diameter.

Have you searched e-cig forums for opinions on the Mesh RDA? Similar issues may have been observed.

 

[2clicker]

Only the tri-braid works at the SS316L preset. This is also a level 3 inception, not a stove-top. With the aliens, had to adjust the TCR by feel, either doubling or halving until the 200F-600F range was useful. The range is especially good with the tri-braid. At 600F, it's much like a low-temp dab - just unwanted residue appears to be remain on the coil

i see. i can tell that you are experimenting outside of the temp spectrum i am after. the way i see it... if cannabis actives vape at around 380-420 then that is the temp range i want my device working in. so if i build a coil and it doesnt give me a satisfying dab in those temp ranges then i consider that coil a failure. honestly if youre device is set to SS316 mode and youre running 316 wire then something is wrong with the coil if it takes up to 600F to get it to vape. or maybe not “wrong”, but its design is not ideal for use in those temps.

as for unwanted residue. my goal is def to vape the dab as complete as possible, but small amounts of residue are negligible. i just want to be able to load a dab, vape it quickly with great flavor, and repaeat when needed. after a while the smal amounts of residue build up “gunking” the coil. then i replace the coil and clean the gunked coil. after a while that ethanol, that the coils soak in, can be filtered and evaporated. leaves behind some good nightcap dabs.

About 19mm. The "posts" are just the wall of the deck with holes drilled in the top for screws. It features a large bottom airflow pipe that can't be seen above. This can be plugged, if desired, but never had leaking through it.

i didnt know what else to call the connections. i usually call them all “posts”. im liking the looks of this one. 19mm is pretty decent.

That's right.

impressive. i need to shoot a video of what i am experiencing and post it.

Good to hear!

yeah. still a lot to learn, but today has been far more consistent. getting great flavorful rips. EScribe is really a great tool! you can customize sooooooo much. its insane. gonna be working on some custom logos soon too!

Disagree. It's possible that neither the DNA nor Joyetech chips work well with the Vandy Mesh, for the same or different reasons, at least not without typical e-juice wicking. Have had no problems with the EHPro.

Have you searched e-cig forums for opinions on the Mesh RDA? Similar issues may have been observed.

yes ive been all over the ecig forums about the VVM. i dont put much stock into their feedback though as their application is completely different. that mesh submerged in liquid im certain would never burn anything. even when dabbing it deosnt burn anything until it gets so the small amount of unvapable solid residue. my guess is that this is waxes and other materials that may get through a filtration. this is what burns. and that isnt present with eliquid i dont think.

i could be wrong about the wire diameter being the issue, but i know for certain this does not happen with wire builds. so if i made my own mesh out of the current wire i have... i can almost promise you that i will not experience this like with the VV supplied mesh. im pretty sure its not simply the fact thats its woven wire vs twisted wire. and the materials are the same, both being 316L. so the only other difference is the hair folicle like diameter of the supplied mesh vs traditional wire sizes. what else could it possibly be?

i would also like to add that i hacked a goon RDA about 8 months back and was running SS316 mesh as an experiment and experienced the same results with the burn at the end. i assumed it was because of the way i was mounting the mesh to the connections. so when i saw the VVM and its nice clamps i was excited. more testing coming. i really have a hard time believing that if i find 316L mesh in more normal wire sizes that they will not perform just like a reg wire build. aside from the improved wicking and flavor from more aurface area!

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

honestly if youre device is set to SS316 mode and youre running 316 wire then something is wrong with the coil if it takes up to 600F to get it to vape. or maybe not “wrong”, but its design is not ideal for use in those temps.

This gives very flavorful vapor at 450F, a little more, less flavorful vapor after switching to 600F, and a little foul-tasting vapor/smoke after switching to power mode. (Only tasted this once to confirm.) No need to taste the same concentrate over and over again, so just crank it up to 600F for a dab-type hit. Very glad to know that TC is possible with these coils.

impressive. i need to shoot a video of what i am experiencing and post it.

Probably observed similar results with the DNA chips - wild fluctuations.

i could be wrong about the wire diameter being the issue, but i know for certain this does not happen with wire builds. so if i made my own mesh out of the current wire i have... i can almost promise you that i will not experience this like with the VV supplied mesh.

Not saying this won't work, it probably will. It's just one approach. Another is using a chip that can handle the Vandy mesh.

 

[2clicker]

Not saying this won't work, it probably will. It's just one approach. Another is using a chip that can handle the Vandy mesh.

trudat. but i just invested in a DNA chip! lol

im really loving it tho. escribe is a game changer for me. you can go in and adjust the temp coefficients to manipulate how the chip reads temp. its crazy the amount of control escribe provides. officially a DNA fanboy.

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

New observation: switching to the Mesh, the EHPro failed to ask if it was a new atomizer, so it was locked on the higher resistance setting of the previous atomizer. Not surprisingly, it glowed. Could that be the issue - not necessarily the chip, but the mod reading incorrect resistance? One DNA mod works better than the other, but noticed glowing with that as well once. Have you been checking the resistance?

 

[2clicker]

New observation: switching to the Mesh, the EHPro failed to ask if it was a new atomizer, so it was locked on the higher resistance setting of the previous atomizer. Not surprisingly, it glowed. Could that be the issue - not necessarily the chip, but the mod reading incorrect resistance? One DNA mod works better than the other, but noticed glowing with that as well once. Have you been checking the resistance?

i have. im a stickler on resistance not fluctuating so i keep a close eye on it.

about the “new coil” screen... is there a specific way to properly change an atty that will prompt this screen? does the mod need to be locked to remove current atty and replace with a new one?

i did a switch last night, device not locked, to an atty with half the resistance of the one before it and it never asked me if the coil was new. the device did adjust to the correct cold coil ohms, but i never got the “new coil” screen. shouldnt i have?

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

about the “new coil” screen... is there a specific way to properly change an atty that will prompt this screen? does the mod need to be locked to remove current atty and replace with a new one?

Seems to vary from chip to chip. With the EHPro in TC mode, removing an atty causes the screen to go dark. Installing an atty at this point triggers the prompt. Doesn't need to be locked. IMO, this is best. The DNA75 mod rarely prompts on installing a new atty. The DNA200 mod prompts more reliably.

i did a switch last night, device not locked, to an atty with half the resistance of the one before it and it never asked me if the coil was new. the device did adjust to the correct cold coil ohms, but i never got the “new coil” screen. shouldnt i have?

Would think so. As you say, the DNA instructions differ from other chips with regard to locking resistance. The prompt may not be as important with a DNA chip, unless resistance remains locked.

 

[2clicker]

did a new build last night and meant to take pics, but this was my first time working with the new wire and it did not turn out very pretty. its a staggered fused clapton done in 24g wrapped in 36g. i dont know what the fuck i was thinking getting 36g to wrap with. lol that shit is like a spider web. the problem i had was that the 36g was so small it was hard to keep an eye on to ensure each wrapped seated properly. well where it did seat properly it looks great, but i said fuck it and just wrapped it more sloppily than id like.

so this coil was wrapped around the flat end of my ceramic tweezers. creating a flat coil. then i mounted it in the VVM and its been really good. the loading surface is like a flat pad of mesh. the sandvik wire tastes the best ive ever used. im pretty happy with this coil. it seems to easily be as effective as my staggered clapton w/ 2 level. and less wire used.

i already know a couple ways to improve this coil so no pics were taken. im going to get some 28g or 30g for wrapping. ill stick with 24g and 26g for core wires. probably 26g as the standard. will post pics when the new wire is in and new coils built.

 

[2clicker]

anyone know where to get the small ceramic cups that are found in wax atomizers?

im looking for a variety of sizes with dif hole patterns in the bottom. or anything really. every time i google ceramic cup it just brings up... well cups. lol

there has to be a place to find dif sized cups. where are these MFGs getting these cups for their products?

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

Also searched for these without much success. Ended up cannibalizing wax atomizers. What do you have in mind?

 

[2clicker]

Also searched for these without much success. Ended up cannibalizing wax atomizers. What do you have in mind?

well basically to use with the same coils we are experimenting with. to help contain any splatter or just keeping the oil against the coil i guess.

i envision staggered fused clapton wrapped into a stovetop sitting low inside one of thr devine tribe cups. or even my new “flat coil” (for lack of better term) sitting low in there. i think the floor and walls of the cup will help keep the oil from getting everywhere inside the atty. even helping with condensed oil not just splatter or run off.

plus the cup will probably look really nice sitting flat on the VVM deck.

im going to order the DT 4pc heater/cup kit mainly for the cups. i just wish i could find these or similar cups for less. wonder why they are so hard to locate...?

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

They could be very cheap to have custom made in bulk, rather than buying them off-the-shelf. Just a guess.

Do you have an Immortalizer RDA? That has a removable ceramic deck that might work. If you need to buy an atomizer, this one from W9Tech is kind of interesting. You get a nice, big ceramic cup and one of the new SiC cylindrical wicks to play with for 11.99 USD.

 

[2clicker]

They could be very cheap to have custom made in bulk, rather than buying them off-the-shelf. Just a guess.

Do you have an Immortalizer RDA? That has a removable ceramic deck that might work. If you need to buy an atomizer, this one from W9Tech is kind of interesting. You get a nice, big ceramic cup and one of the new SiC cylindrical wicks to play with for 11.99 USD.

good lookin out. i wonder how hard it is to get that cup out of there...?

as for the wick... porous ceramic? no thanks! check that UWell info on porous ceramics. not good.

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

Have one - easy to disassemble. Maybe @THC SCIENTIFIC can hook you up with ceramic cups.

 

[2clicker]

so if finding the cups for sale is hard then i wonder how hard it is to find a manufacturer to make small batches of them...?

like 25-50 of them. or would anyone here be down to go in on a group buy?

 

[2clicker]

so if finding the cups for sale is hard then i wonder how hard it is to find a manufacturer to make small batches of them...?

like 25-50 of them. or would anyone here be down to go in on a group buy?

guess not...?

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

Can't think of a use for a ceramic cup right now. Wouldn't work with bottom airflow, and even side airflow could be blocked. Spatter's rarely a problem.

New wire. Favorite is triple core 28gx3/36g. Like working with soft metal.

Is the gauge responsible for this pliability? The single-core clapton wire that's too springy is 26g/30g, and the double-core that's okay, but not great, is 26gx2/36g.

 

[2clicker]

Can't think of a use for a ceramic cup right now. Wouldn't work with bottom airflow, and even side airflow could be blocked. Spatter's rarely a problem.

New wire. Favorite is triple core 28gx3/36g. Like working with soft metal.

Is the gauge responsible for this pliability? The single-core clapton wire that's too springy is 26g/30g, and the double-core that's okay, but not great, is 26gx2/36g.

i didnt think about the bottom air flow being an issue. i dont see side air flow being a problem so long the cup is resting on the deck of the VVM. the airflow should be fine i think. and i dont mean splatter. more so for keeping condensed oil in the cup vs in the RDA layering and gunking it up. it wouldnt completely stop condensation on the deck or sides, but i think it sure would help. for some reason i want to try the cups. as soon as my wallet is back to normal from giftmas shopping ill get the DT cup set and give it a go.

also looking for a silicone tipped tool to collect the condensed oil inside the cap when its still warm. after a couple of grams that shit starts to build up.

about your wire and it’s pliability... im not sure. i think on top of its gauge youre looking at other factors as well. even as far as who makes the wire and its purity.

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

also looking for a silicone tipped tool to collect the condensed oil inside the cap when its still warm. after a couple of grams that shit starts to build up.

Usually do a quick, warm ethanol wash and save - infrequently with the deck. Most reclaim condenses in the long glass drip tip. Treat that the same.

about your wire and it’s pliability... im not sure. i think on top of its gauge youre looking at other factors as well. even as far as who makes the wire and its purity.

GR. 430 SS is very different from 316L. It's dark and dull. Very stiff and difficult to work with. They say it has no nickel.

Love this sample spools deal from AVS. 25USD gets 5x5' spools any pre-built wire they offer. Enough to wrap a few coils with each one.