Life Saber (LSV) by Elev8 Vehicles

Tweak

T\/\/34|<
2) A few times right after hitting, as I disconnect the lsv from the m2m its pulled the HC off with it. I don't like when that happens.

With the little testing I did with the m2m this was my biggest concern. I even tried smoothing my m2m GG out with some sandpaper.

Does this not happen to others? I attempted to tighten my LSV HC with a shim and it was too much, the heat must have expanded the metal, cracking the LSV HC, :(

I use the EQ baskets with my SSV wand and it work great but a little deeper would be so much better

That's why I remove the metal ring.
 

hoptimum

Well-Known Member
I like the m2m method a lot but 2 issues I've been having are :

1) I can't get equally zapped abv. Even if i stir, the bottom of a half full elb doesn't get extracted enough. I even folded up a screen and sat it at the bottom of an elb to try and increase air exposure to the bottom( I vape at 3:00)

2) A few times right after hitting, as I disconnect the lsv from the m2m its pulled the HC off with it. I don't like when that happens. Its funny, one's first instinct is to push the scorching hot HC with your finger but only for a split second until your frontal cortex (reason) kicks in.

other than that, the m2m method is superb and I get sick clouds. I haven't decided which method I prefer yet (m2m or wpa with crafty liquid pad).

@scottg402 thanks for sharing that. I thought I noticed more flavour in a coarser grind when playing around with the wpa.

friday already? more testing! :leaf:
:rockon:

I have 3 M2Ms, which came with different DHGate bubblers, and they're all a slightly different inner diameter.
 

howie105

Well-Known Member
I have some food safe, high temp silicone sealer that I used to add four gripper dots to the inside of the heater cover on my LSV. The dots are about the size of a straight pin head and have done a fair job of holding the cover tighter to the heater base without welding it on. The dots don’t soak off or soften in ISO so I didn’t have to change up my clean up routine, which I like. Good Luck
 

lwien

Well-Known Member

lazylathe

Almost there...
I kind of wrap my finger around the bubble of the M2M as this stops it from staying attached to the LSV.
Never really had an issue if the bowl is removed since the herb is no longer being heated.

I am enjoying finishing a bowl and then adding a dab of shatter on top of the spent bowl.
MMMMMmmmmmm.... Convection shatter dabs!!!
YUM!!!

Since getting the LSV and the VRIP my hunger for a solid desktop has gone away!!
Still on the hunt for that perfect portable for myself!
 

Quickie

Well-Known Member
Is the website in the middle of a redesign? Some of the functions seem broken or missing.

Menu items not found. Why delete the menu bar? Even with a redesign you can develop the site on another URL, or even just offline with dreamweaver. You have to go to sitemap at the bottom to get a crumb trail.
 

Slow Draw McGraw

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
Is the website in the middle of a redesign? Some of the functions seem broken or missing.

Menu items not found. Why delete the menu bar? Even with a redesign you can develop the site on another URL, or even just offline with dreamweaver. You have to go to sitemap at the bottom to get a crumb trail.

If you're using mobile, it sometimes does not work out well. Desktop is the way to go when viewing, at least that's what I've found.
 
Slow Draw McGraw,
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sweetherb

Well-Known Member
Guys, my heating element is waaay off to one side and almost touches the glass HC. Has anyone found a way to reliably hold the element straight?

When I take the metal clips off, I see the element sits basically loose in there. I think the problem is that the wire coming out of the unit and connecting to the bottom of the HE is at an an angle, so it never naturally sits straight.

I was thinking about trying a couple of washers further down to hold the HE straight, as the top metal cup alone does not hold it straight. Or maybe some stiff wire wrapped around a central pin with prongs sticking out like barbed wire? A ceramic sleeve the same diameter as the metal holder would probably be the best option, but I have no idea how to buy or make such a thing. Thoughts, suggestions? My OCD won't let me leave this alone!
 
sweetherb,
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Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
dreamweaver
There's an app I haven't used in a long time lol. Takes me back about 10 years, good times.

Guys, my heating element is waaay off to one side and almost touches the glass HC. Has anyone found a way to reliably hold the element straight?

When I take the metal clips off, I see the element sits basically loose in there. I think the problem is that the wire coming out of the unit and connecting to the bottom of the HE is at an an angle, so it never naturally sits straight.

I was thinking about trying a couple of washers further down to hold the HE straight, as the top metal cup alone does not hold it straight. Or maybe some stiff wire wrapped around a central pin with prongs sticking out like barbed wire? A ceramic sleeve the same diameter as the metal holder would probably be the best option, but I have no idea how to buy or make such a thing. Thoughts, suggestions? My OCD won't let me leave this alone!

Yeah, that bothers the crap out of me. I simply removed my HC (way easier to remove than I expected, nice!), and nudged my heating element straight. It's better than it was, but still too loose for my comfort.

If I'm not mistaken, @Herb-nerd mentioned they were working on a fix for this. Correct? (If not, let me know if you need help, I'm sure I could design a model of the part I think necessary to fix the issue).

Since I re-positioned my HE, the heat distribution is MUCH better (originally it was literally scorching 1/4th of the load).

This is one area where my Nano shines. That's a solid unbreakable vape (I've dropped it several times lol). And the heating element is perfectly straight
 
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howie105

Well-Known Member
I poked and prodded and improved the alignment of the heater a little bit but in the end I just accepted the fact that the heater will never be totally straight. While I was searching for a solution I too found mention of a factory fix that was on the way but it was from a point in time when the product was fairly young, so I don't think I will hold my breath waiting. Good Luck
 

DorianGray

Well-Known Member
A too find grind can easily combust. The crap hit the fan and I combusted with my wpa at 3:00 with too find of a grind. stunk up my whole rig so just grabbed my long wand and I'm here to say that m2m, wpa, etc. they are all great, just the simple long wand is awesome too, a few stirs and major vapour!
I love this vaporizer!
 

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
So how do you take the knob off to put a custom one on?
Pulls straight off. Simply slide another in place.

Ordering a custom glass one from 7th floor tomorrow

I've got an all red LSV, I'm thinking a Red+Black glass dial would look sweet. I'm also working on a special vinyl sticker dial gauge with an artist friend, I'll share some pictures when I have some - I think it will help me perfect my temp selections
 

Quickie

Well-Known Member
Impressed with the vape. The taste is unreal. Almost like your eating the hurb in the first couple draws. After that that the clouds start getting bigger. Super quick start up time too, like a butane vape, but you need that thick cord to power it. Combusted a tiny bit on the first session, but not much of a learning curve. Like all direct draw vapes, it makes my mouth dry, can't wait to get the water tool. For a inexpensive vape the quality of the parts seem very high, built to last. This ones a keeper, super happy with it.
 

sweetherb

Well-Known Member
Guys, my heating element is waaay off to one side and almost touches the glass HC. Has anyone found a way to reliably hold the element straight?

When I take the metal clips off, I see the element sits basically loose in there. I think the problem is that the wire coming out of the unit and connecting to the bottom of the HE is at an an angle, so it never naturally sits straight.

I was thinking about trying a couple of washers further down to hold the HE straight, as the top metal cup alone does not hold it straight. Or maybe some stiff wire wrapped around a central pin with prongs sticking out like barbed wire? A ceramic sleeve the same diameter as the metal holder would probably be the best option, but I have no idea how to buy or make such a thing. Thoughts, suggestions? My OCD won't let me leave this alone!

Success! I just got back from the hardware store, where I bought some thick rubber tap washers.

The central hole in these rubber washers is ever so slightly larger than the diameter of the ceramic heater rod, so they slide over perfectly, but still provide some grip.

Obviously, the external diameter was waaaay too large to fit into the metal "tube section" from which the heater element protrudes, so I just used a pair of sharp scissors and slowly trimmed one of the washers to size. I kept trying it until it would just fit with a small amount of force.

I then used a screwdriver to press the newly trimmed washer down into the metal tube section far enough that the metal plug could be re-inserted over the top.

My heating element now sits perfectly straight, and as an added bonus the grippy rubber washer allowed me to pull out the heater element slightly for more heat. The washer also holds the ceramic rod tight, so it should not move at all anymore.

Time for some haze, methinks!
 

DorianGray

Well-Known Member
Success! I just got back from the hardware store, where I bought some thick rubber tap washers.

The central hole in these rubber washers is ever so slightly larger than the diameter of the ceramic heater rod, so they slide over perfectly, but still provide some grip.

Obviously, the external diameter was waaaay too large to fit into the metal "tube section" from which the heater element protrudes, so I just used a pair of sharp scissors and slowly trimmed one of the washers to size. I kept trying it until it would just fit with a small amount of force.

I then used a screwdriver to press the newly trimmed washer down into the metal tube section far enough that the metal plug could be re-inserted over the top.

My heating element now sits perfectly straight, and as an added bonus the grippy rubber washer allowed me to pull out the heater element slightly for more heat. The washer also holds the ceramic rod tight, so it should not move at all anymore.

Time for some haze, methinks!

won't the washer emit toxic fumes? can you take a pic?
 

sweetherb

Well-Known Member
OK, I am now back in LSV heaven! Performance was good before, but absolutely stellar now. I was able to get dense clouds at 1:30 on the dial with the shorty WPA and can now go below 11:00 on the dial with the transfer wand. The material is also clearly being vaped far more evenly. Result!
 

sweetherb

Well-Known Member
won't the washer emit toxic fumes? can you take a pic?

That's a good question. I assumed that it would be fine, since the washer itself is a LONG way from the glowing orange tip of the heater element. Without an IR thermometer, I have no way of measuring the actual temperature at the base of the element.

I just spent quite some time putting everything back together, so sadly no pic. I really wish I had taken a pic while I had everything apart. D'oh!
 

howie105

Well-Known Member
That's a good question. I assumed that it would be fine, since the washer itself is a LONG way from the glowing orange tip of the heater element. Without an IR thermometer, I have no way of measuring the actual temperature at the base of the element.

I just spent quite some time putting everything back together, so sadly no pic. I really wish I had taken a pic while I had everything apart. D'oh!

A bold approach to the situation, please keep us updated to you progress. Good Luck
 
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