This is a reasonable quality solution to a portable power handle with a latching switch. Reasonably cheap to make and is very nice quality. I purchased mine through ebay here. for $10.25
It is a "TrustFire TR-801 Cree Q5 5-Mode 300-Lumen waterproof LED Flashlight torch Lamp" for when the link dies. Other needed items would be a couple RCA (phono) connectors and the connector which will attach to your device. In this case a standard 510 connector. Solder, JB putty weld, couple LEDs and resistor will also be needed.
I have designed the output of the unit to be a side mounted counter sunk RCA connector. With this Flashlight, there is lots of room to perform the need modifications. The actual battery compartment is not modded at all. The only questionable part which may cause future problems is the switch although appears to function well might have longevity problems due to the current levels been used.
Since the connector is side mounted, the mating connector is also made with a 90 degree bend and the vaporizer connector married to the vaporizer.
Let's start with the top which unscrews in two pieces. The mid section has the + side spring and circuit board on one side and the other side has the LED lamp.
The very top hood has an inner retainer screw holding the reflector in place. It is easily removed and reflector removed. The reflector and screw are not used.
Unsolder the PC board which has spring from the body and removed the IC.
Drilled two holes, one for the + and a second close to the side for the -.
The center section has two holes already drilled which the two wires can be routed through for access from the top. The board with spring can be soldered back in place to the same appearance as originally looked.
Note: Keep in mind this is the positive spring and can be optional if voltage drop becomes an issue. A solid contact could be a better bet. At this time I do not wish to modify inside the actual battery compartment.
Next I measured where I wanted the connector to be and drilled out such that the hole lined up with the side of the unit which I wanted it to. Think this out as only one shot. Good time to loose those stupid little rubber washers as can cause power troubles anyway. Don't think been waterproof an issue in our application anyways.
Leaving only a little extra wire it's time to solder the wires and have the connector sitting roughly where you want it. Plug in the connector mate to hold and check how things fit. Time to mix up a small ball of JB putty weld and place under the connector> squeeze in place but leave room for the addition of LED and couple other small components.
The JB only takes a few minutes to firm up so get the adapter in place and let sit for a few minutes. Maybe tape? Double check alignment and adjust if necessary. I added a little more to make it usable before the finial seal up.
Ready for a test drive at this point.
For the LED indicator I managed to find a LED which had a lens which could be seen from the side with the same brightness as the looking head on. I also used a standard diode which only function is to waste .7 volts. The reason I used a second diode is so the indicator can also function as a low battery indicator. I used a 150 ohm current limiting resistor. This make the LED to drop off in brightness very quickly once around the 3.2 volt mark.
Now time to solder in the LED, diode and resistor in place, mix up some more JB and start filling it up. Do not try to do all in one shot. A finial layer can be added and smoothed up with ISO. I get the putty in place wait until just before it's hard and rub ISO over it and it seems to give a smooth texture.
You can then go over it with permanent black marker a few times and even it up again with ISO.
You might need a clip to hold your device along the side of handle. I used a piece of dense double sided sticky tape. Cut to approximately 1 cm square, made yet another small ball of JB putty and put on top of tape. The under side still has the plastic film covering the sticky part of rubber tape. Then placed the ball on the holder where it is to go. Pushed the vaporizer device onto the putty to form the groove to hold along the side. Once putty hardens it can be sanded to give the desired look and functionality. Permanent marker, peel film off and put in the freshly ISO cleaned location.
The RCA connectors are pretty much the best quality I could find around the shop.
My co-worker hasn't listened to his stereo in ages anyway....
Making these are not too hard if you have a couple clamps to hold in place while soldering. With the 510 connector it's best to have a device screwed in to keep the pin strait. Also, soldering to the center must be very quick as not to melt the insulating bushing. Get solder blobs melted on the other side first so that just a touch will let solder flow onto the 510 pin. Quick.
Check and double check the 90 degree and solder up the ground shells. Almost using the solder like a structural weld as well. Once cool and all checks out, yep, you guessed it, it's JB time again. You can also add a power indicator here as well if want to be fancy. I just used a typical red LED and a 180 OHM (IIRC) resister. Not a battery level indicator in this case.
The second portion in the above picture (female RCA to male 510), I was using with my TV power handled modded for an 18650 battery by removing the inner sleeve and installing a bottom spring making it a reverse kill switch unit in a "normally ON" state.
So that's about it. A very nice quality handle for the DIYer and still well under $15
BTW, I was suppose to get a black one but I didn't look at the last picture. Got a whopping 8% refund because I complained. Oh well, the green looks OK. And put price to under $10.
I have also ordered a couple supposedly high quality flashlight tube switches from China just in case. Of course no guarantees there but were cheap. Me bad.
Happy Modding
Pipes
It is a "TrustFire TR-801 Cree Q5 5-Mode 300-Lumen waterproof LED Flashlight torch Lamp" for when the link dies. Other needed items would be a couple RCA (phono) connectors and the connector which will attach to your device. In this case a standard 510 connector. Solder, JB putty weld, couple LEDs and resistor will also be needed.
I have designed the output of the unit to be a side mounted counter sunk RCA connector. With this Flashlight, there is lots of room to perform the need modifications. The actual battery compartment is not modded at all. The only questionable part which may cause future problems is the switch although appears to function well might have longevity problems due to the current levels been used.
Since the connector is side mounted, the mating connector is also made with a 90 degree bend and the vaporizer connector married to the vaporizer.
Let's start with the top which unscrews in two pieces. The mid section has the + side spring and circuit board on one side and the other side has the LED lamp.
The very top hood has an inner retainer screw holding the reflector in place. It is easily removed and reflector removed. The reflector and screw are not used.
Unsolder the PC board which has spring from the body and removed the IC.
Drilled two holes, one for the + and a second close to the side for the -.
The center section has two holes already drilled which the two wires can be routed through for access from the top. The board with spring can be soldered back in place to the same appearance as originally looked.
Note: Keep in mind this is the positive spring and can be optional if voltage drop becomes an issue. A solid contact could be a better bet. At this time I do not wish to modify inside the actual battery compartment.
Next I measured where I wanted the connector to be and drilled out such that the hole lined up with the side of the unit which I wanted it to. Think this out as only one shot. Good time to loose those stupid little rubber washers as can cause power troubles anyway. Don't think been waterproof an issue in our application anyways.
Leaving only a little extra wire it's time to solder the wires and have the connector sitting roughly where you want it. Plug in the connector mate to hold and check how things fit. Time to mix up a small ball of JB putty weld and place under the connector> squeeze in place but leave room for the addition of LED and couple other small components.
The JB only takes a few minutes to firm up so get the adapter in place and let sit for a few minutes. Maybe tape? Double check alignment and adjust if necessary. I added a little more to make it usable before the finial seal up.
Ready for a test drive at this point.
For the LED indicator I managed to find a LED which had a lens which could be seen from the side with the same brightness as the looking head on. I also used a standard diode which only function is to waste .7 volts. The reason I used a second diode is so the indicator can also function as a low battery indicator. I used a 150 ohm current limiting resistor. This make the LED to drop off in brightness very quickly once around the 3.2 volt mark.
Now time to solder in the LED, diode and resistor in place, mix up some more JB and start filling it up. Do not try to do all in one shot. A finial layer can be added and smoothed up with ISO. I get the putty in place wait until just before it's hard and rub ISO over it and it seems to give a smooth texture.
You can then go over it with permanent black marker a few times and even it up again with ISO.
You might need a clip to hold your device along the side of handle. I used a piece of dense double sided sticky tape. Cut to approximately 1 cm square, made yet another small ball of JB putty and put on top of tape. The under side still has the plastic film covering the sticky part of rubber tape. Then placed the ball on the holder where it is to go. Pushed the vaporizer device onto the putty to form the groove to hold along the side. Once putty hardens it can be sanded to give the desired look and functionality. Permanent marker, peel film off and put in the freshly ISO cleaned location.
The RCA connectors are pretty much the best quality I could find around the shop.
My co-worker hasn't listened to his stereo in ages anyway....
Making these are not too hard if you have a couple clamps to hold in place while soldering. With the 510 connector it's best to have a device screwed in to keep the pin strait. Also, soldering to the center must be very quick as not to melt the insulating bushing. Get solder blobs melted on the other side first so that just a touch will let solder flow onto the 510 pin. Quick.
Check and double check the 90 degree and solder up the ground shells. Almost using the solder like a structural weld as well. Once cool and all checks out, yep, you guessed it, it's JB time again. You can also add a power indicator here as well if want to be fancy. I just used a typical red LED and a 180 OHM (IIRC) resister. Not a battery level indicator in this case.
The second portion in the above picture (female RCA to male 510), I was using with my TV power handled modded for an 18650 battery by removing the inner sleeve and installing a bottom spring making it a reverse kill switch unit in a "normally ON" state.
So that's about it. A very nice quality handle for the DIYer and still well under $15
BTW, I was suppose to get a black one but I didn't look at the last picture. Got a whopping 8% refund because I complained. Oh well, the green looks OK. And put price to under $10.
I have also ordered a couple supposedly high quality flashlight tube switches from China just in case. Of course no guarantees there but were cheap. Me bad.
Happy Modding
Pipes