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Thanks welderboy. We've got a local RC shop that's big into the micro choppers. I bet they'll have something perfect there.

Fantastic. One more thing. How do you make the tab connectors I see soldered to the end of the battery? It looks like they just plug into the Pax's board leads.

Good to know. Do you make any noticeable mods to fit the higher cap battery? I ask because if I need service I'd like to be able to put it back to original condition.

noticed any differences in battery life?

Welderboy, have you talked about the different batteries you've tried anywhere?

That's because you're a Yankee. To those keeping with the genteel culture of the Grand Old South, skipping biscuits and gravy would be like a Catholic skipping communion.

My CRZ is just a smidge wider and about and inch shorter than a redbull can. It's even narrower on the top, but I think mine's a one or two-off of the thinner size. I am a guinea pig around here.

My beta unit was ran for over 2 months at 14.1-14.6 volts. I sent it back to rick, and he took it apart and there was no actual charring. It was covered a few pages back. Was the unit you killed a CRZ? Did it char out and break or did the resistor fail?

@HDLar I used a 13.5Vac adapter with mine for the longest. No rattles no nothing. The RZ1 was a helluva tough vape. It's like it was designed to over-volt. Somebody that doesn't have one, should snatch up that Myrtle with the VV fast. On 12V mine is about like you say. It's about the same as...

That Myrtle RZ1 with the VV for 125 is the deal of the century. RZ1s kill it at higher voltage.

Haven't been able to say I have a Zap on the way for awhile, but now I can again!

I have to have some tea with vapor after 9 pm or I snooze out fast. And I reject the idea that caffeine is inherently unhealthy. Those that consume moderate amounts of caffeine from natural sources see a number of benefits. Just a couple are reductions in occurrence of colon cancer and...

That's because you're truck is outputting around 14 volts. You may have a cold solder joint. Email Rick about it and he'll take care of you.

Or you could try to find a fat O-ring to fill up the extra 5 mm of space. File a little groove for it to set in around the zap stem with an emory fingernail file.

@ennui Try a cork. You can buy loads of them cheap at the hobby store and you may get one you can graft onto a zap stem that will fit well enough.

You're a good ol' dude rick, you truly are. Cheers! PS... If you put a blue LED in it, I'll kiss your ass and give you a full week to draw a crowd.

Why, hallo thar MyrtleZap! Those snakey grains and flames look mighty similar to a MZ that's cooking on my desk right now.

@rick I always knew it was a test unit and that someday it could be called to glory for the sake of learning. I'm glad to see that it held up to the burn. Seems like the evidence is in favor of the VV. Mo' power! PS, how'd ya like that bottom covering material I used? hehe

@rick 14.3 vdc. It had over 60 days of total time on that transformer. And that Myrtle was a sweet piece, but I don't know if I need a bubbler holder, as I can't really spare the change for a bubbler and a rework of my Zap into better wood. I've been liking some of the ambrosia maple stuff...

@rick USPS says that they dropped my zap off to ya. You need me to email you so you can put a name with the zap?