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Anyone have an Air similar to the pics and/or description below? I'm a bit surprised by the build quality and trying to determine if I have purchased an authentic Arizer product. There are a few things strange about it: 1) The top black plastic heater cover is poorly machined as visible in...

Using isopropyl alcohol to help break things up and then flush it with the hottest water your faucet can put out. I found the hot water really helpful... doesnt work as well on a combustion piece.

No doubt about it definitely get the WPA if you are able to order it with your LSV! Shorty for 14 or 18mm joint. You would be missing out otherwise. The LSV is designed to hook up to the WPA and your glass without having to rig together some cumbersome setup... and it can perform very well...

Yes of course. I would hope this was assumed(or read in the manual)... You can't even mate the joints together without the LSV "top" removed.

I have experienced this on my unit as well, although I'm not sure how much it tends to work itself off center over time. I think a lot of the time the mount and the HC itself is not perfect(it is glass after all). I have not had too much luck with trying to gently "bend" the mount and getting it...

I have a year old LSV that was returned a few months ago with the new strain relief installed(from 7th floor). Just noticed today that when I move the cord around near the strain relief I get intermittent power as visible by the light on the unit cycling on/off. I am generally very gentle on the...

Interesting. Sorry to hear about such a failure. Doesnt the strain relief cap twist down as a compression fitting and stablize the cord? This should keep the inside wires from being strained no matter how you treat the external cord. Are the wires inside the insulation sliding around when...

I think it comes with it right now from 7th floor, but make sure you get the WPA even if you are not planning on using it much. It just works too well. The only other things to recommend would be a spare heater cover(just in case) and some extra screens(for the wand and WPA).

Regarding a stand.... I just thought instead of having a large solid base, using a clamp would be a weight and space saving alternative. You could just clamp it to the edge of a table, shelf, bed frame, etc.

Right on! BTW I noticed you are coming from an mflb with batteries. Get ready for a huge jump in performance; you are about to trade in a go kart for a muscle car. :freak: I was hurting when I was forced to go back to only mflb for a while. Both in quantity and quality(I like the glass). I think...

No, but I know it has been mentioned before.:science: I was thinking of something with a heavy stable base and a siliconized hook. You could hang the unit on there by the holes on the aluminum "swiss cheese" housing. Seems like a simple enough design and would allow the cord to rest in an...

Oops was trying to describe it in extra detail. Haha. Maybe my memory serves me wrong and my old unit went further than 3pm too. Thats probably why I dont use my newer unit past 11. Again more evidence that knob position varies sometimes as they come from the factory. I think if everyone...

12 o clock would be the line on the knob pointing strait up towards the light and cord. With that in mind somewhere around 7am should be off and 3pm is max. Edit: actually I just rechecked mine and it clicks to off at around 5am. Was going off memory and what someone else said. 3pm is still...

On both the units I've had, 3 o clock is approximately as far as the knob will turn. I think this is the "standard" configuration from the factory. It is easy to adjust the knob; just pull upwards on it, keep working it and it should slide off. That is an idea. I also think a simple and...

It depends entirely on the ability of the unit to dissipate heat to the environment. For example if you were using it outside in 0F weather, it would be much more difficult to get the temperature hot enough to melt plastic or start a fire. However if it's under a blanket with ambient...

No, definitely not. I run my unit on higher temps(usually below max) to warm it up for about 3-5 minutes. Then it gets turned down. With my old unit I used to keep it between 12-2. My new unit seems to run hotter and hardly goes over 11.

I disagree and would like to bring this up again because I believe this is an important thing for everyone to think about and respect before something bad happens. In my experience, if you put the LSV on 3 o clock(max) it will be too hot to hold within 15-20 minutes. This would be on a table at...

Great point good to hear an opinion from someone with experience using and maintaining both units. I was actually going to order some screens from 7TH Foor but ended up finding that my local smoke shop had a wide variety of stainless screen sizes. I found a perfect size that seems to be very...

Not the first. Check this thread. Unfortunately this "lifetime" vape has had some common problems and the wood getting charred is one. I would not use it anymore, sorry to say. It's good that you noticed it, hard to tell it's going on.

The light seems tied directly to the heat control and driven off of the resulting voltage. The heat control is probably a "light dimmer" type of variable voltage control. These types turn on/off rapidly to accomplish a voltage drop and I think this flickering is visible in the light as you...