Do NOT click on any vaporpedia.com links. The domain has been compromised and will attempt to infect your system. See https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/warning-vaporpedia-com-has-been-compromised.54960/.
The Screwball Mascot Naming Contest is live! Enter before March 17th at 11:59pm PST to win a Screwball Starter kit and other cool stuff
Because the "invisible hand of the market" proved times and times again that the only thing it's helping is filling its own pocket? (...or stomach, for the matter)
:shrug:
OK I get the idea a bit better now, but yeah having to poke the capsule from below and risking that it snags on the o-rings etc would probably thwart all the convenience that you would gain in the first place.
I might be stupid but I fail to see why anyone would want to subject themselves to such a hassle?
The original Nomad stem with two screens is de-facto a capsule inside the stem, nothing can fall out, nothing can get stuck, you can unload it right after using it...
Yeah what you describe kinda sounds like the memories I have: plenty of struggle and often just the impression of sucking on a hair drier...
You really have to insist and get the entire thing super hot, then once it's going don't stop and try to cash your load as fast as possible, as using it...
The FW1 and up to 2.1 are just completely anemic. You need to have the heating element glowing red hot and take super slow and super long hits, otherwise you just get a mouthful of hot air. I never was satisfied with my 2.1, getting good hits was such a hassle and the device was getting so hot I...
This is a sign of poor isolation from the wall charger/adapter. What you feel is some small alternating current leaking through. Happens on a lot of devices, even from reputable brands. To confirm it's the case it's easy: if you unplug the charger and it immediately stops, you have the proof it...
If you use the provided abrasive sponge you should be good, but you really need to have the metal shiny all around the heater.
Otherwise yes the resistance values were tweaked at some point compared to the first batch heaters.
If vapor production is low and you find them too sluggish, chances are you need to remove the oxide layer from the bridge and at the interface between the bottom brass plate and the heater. The button should be mostly self-cleaning and if the vaseline from the kit was applied it should be good...
If you are really allergic (and not figuratively) to it, I suspect it's from the Nickel part. In which case I would invite you to consider other stainless steel alloys that have a much lower Nickel content yet still work properly in TC mode. Have you tried S430? It has zero Nickel and many in...
Interesting. When we investigated the possible usage of these chipsets, a few users reported that they were not suitable for dry herbs due to some built-in "dry hit" protection that seemed to detect when there was no liquid (which is... well, always the case with dry herbs lol)
Note also that battery capacity is a function of the discharge current. On top of what @RustyOldNail said above about the cutoff voltage for the measurement, you will get a different value if you make your discharge capacity test at say 0.5C, 1C or 2C etc.
And yes the (usually) Nickel tabs are...