Search results for query: heat sink

...good choice for a single battery, and these mods do cost more depending where you buy, but shopping around yeah you can easily find them under $50. A DNA mod would cost over, but it is not really so necessary. The Pico could work for Splinter if you get a heat sink to fit, all take ArcticFox FW.

The distance from the heater does matter in my experience. I was initially less impressed with my Tubo X and realized packing the stem joint was the issue. It didn't seem intuitive or tidy to have the basket screen with the weed stuck in there with just a minimal tamp. Once I started loading my...

I don't think the distance really matters. The hot air flow from element is a closed path and has nowhere else to go but through the payload. The path is still insulated about the same and the rimmed screen would act as a sink but I think that equates to just a little more time to heat soak...

I would suggest looking more at software that they run. If only using it in wattage the mod choice isn't as important. If using TC mode something that runs Arctic Fox FJ software or sur_myevic would be my suggestion.

...ones listed that I’ve seen on here - so far I’ve found: Smoant Battlestar mini 80w - $26 Eleaf Istick Pico 70w -$30 (I’d also purchase the heat sink as previously noted in the thread) Tesla WYE 85w - $35 Wismec Luxotic Surface 80w - $45 Asmodus Colossal 80w - $55 Any advice would be much...

I believe you need a heat sink to clear the battery cap... Did not know that that's what they were offering, odd choice

...form has been minimized. Ryan talked about how those new 510 attachments were much more solid and well-built than his older peices. The new heat sink is lined with ceramic along the interior, as opposed to the mica in previous iterations. The V1 brings two stems and 3 screens along with a...

...the Splinter from the mod, only do it when the unit has completely cooled down after use. And of course, there's always the use of a heat sink for which, unfortunately, there can be coil resistance value issues.) unbroken glass that loses its adhesion due to heat. (Make sure unit doesn't...

I don't know enough about mods to say how broadly this applies, but the resistance measured by my mod box was horribly wrong. It read .245, which lit the coil up like a torch inside 3-4 seconds. Based on reports here I dropped it to .235, which was still too high, so I kept lowering it until I...

Have a good look at the centre pin when choosing a heat sink Most of them are adjustable in some way but of coarse some are better than others at doing that. A bad connection will cause the mod to read the resistance wrong and give inconsistent results at best. This is why I buy from sites...

Your local stores didn't have any decent ones? eBay from a trusted seller that has specifications listed might be your best bet. I will agree the the quality is highly variable, so definitely don't go with the flashy colorful ones. Get a stainless steel heat sink.

Where are you finding the nicer ones? I tried four local b&m vape shops before resorting to Fasttech.

Get a nicer heat sink, a stainless steel Kepler or the like.

...enough to replace. Even tho I am in the US I would still like to avoid having to send the Splinter back for repair if I can help it and the reports of the 510 getting loose are my concern. I will go out of my way to protect it, and if a heat sink helps I would do that gladly as they are cheap.

What are you trying to protect, the Splinter or the box mod? I know some here use a heat sink to protect the 510 connection on the Splinter due to reports of the body of the atty separating from the 510 portion and spinning freely. My opinion on this is that if my Splinter has this problem I'll...

I use one 24mm

My tests with a heat sink (bought off amazon) on the splinter was that the resistance measure started bouncing all over the place.

I haven't taken my Splinter out of the house yet, but I imagine when I do I'm gonna want to take it off the mod to make it more manageable. Do y'all recommend getting a heat sink to keep attached to the Splinter to avoid potential threading issues? If so, what size do you recommend?

...about heat buildup, & I'm not needing it for a Pico or Primo(?) mod. I want to be able to unscrew the Splinter from the mod via the heat sink & not have to touch the wood cartridge since I've heard that by screwing/unscrewing the Splinter from the mod can result in the 510 adapter separating...

...care about variable watts mode. Also check for comments about the quality of the 510 connection. You'll see a lot of talk about using a heat sink to protect the 510 connection here on FC but I haven't seen the need. I abuse the shit out of the 510 on my Revenger, switching attys several times...