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Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

Hashassin

the uniBHOmber
Update: Although the Tesla Stealth is heating the Hercules, It’s just adequate. You’ll never burn your oils but you may prefer having the ability to adjust wattage/voltage to get a Heavier, denser vape. This mod I consider Light-moderate in vapor production.
I have a couple other devices I will try utilizing the Herc. NimbusVapor ’s Movkin Disguiser looks promising but I’m testing another stealthier, pocket friendly mod. I have no problem powering the Hercules with the MiniVolt but battery life obviously sucks. Here’s one I’ve found and have coming…

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Athena-Special-design-Envy17-All-In_60358263237.html

It’s side by side profile as or similar to THC SCIENTIFIC ’s rendering of mod design, lends to a more stealthy device. With features to enhance usability.

I just picked up a movkin disguiser for this very purpose. I don't have the 510 herc yet so i can't comment on how well they will work out together. w9tech website says they aren't shipping for a few days so it will be a week or two till I have it.

The mod itself feels cheap and flimsy, the battery door on the bottom is utter shit and I don't have especially high expectations for the board inside. That being said I bought it for a reasonably pocket friendly and stealthy way to lug around and use the SR-71 and because I'm tired of running the herc on 2x18350 cells.

I'll post pics and a usage report after I receive the necessary new parts.

Of course this is just a means to an end while I patiently await the new release from UPtech. I'm very much looking forward to seeing a properly TC controlled hercules experience and aside from that I expect their new device to be considerably higher quality than this disguiser.
 

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
I just picked up a movkin disguiser for this very purpose. I don't have the 510 herc yet so i can't comment on how well they will work out together. w9tech website says they aren't shipping for a few days so it will be a week or two till I have it.
Did you order an adapter bottom insulator to use with your existing 601 Hercules? We'll be back to shipping on Tuesday. I'm excited to see what you think of the setup!
 

Hashassin

the uniBHOmber
Did you order an adapter bottom insulator to use with your existing 601 Hercules? We'll be back to shipping on Tuesday. I'm excited to see what you think of the setup!

Yes indeed, I scored the adapter for my existing SR-71, a second 510 SR-71, four new ti coils and two spare white-71 rods. I figure since my original has been running for over three years (and somewhere around 1lb of errl) with no problems a tune up and a spare should have me set for something approaching a decade as far as the herc itself.

Question for ya: Is it possible to use the SR-74 or 74x sleeve with the non threaded cap on an SR-71 or is that a no-go? If it is possible is there any way I can order a pair of those sleeves? I generally use the herc without the heat shield because unscrewing that cap to reload almost always throws of the resistance and on the go it's a pain to adjust a dirty/oily herc. A thread less cap would be great but I'm not willing to move down to the lower power rods on the newer models, I like my white-71 rods!
 

elmoe420

Well-Known Member
Yes indeed, I scored the adapter for my existing SR-71, a second 510 SR-71, four new ti coils and two spare white-71 rods. I figure since my original has been running for over three years (and somewhere around 1lb of errl) with no problems a tune up and a spare should have me set for something approaching a decade as far as the herc itself.

Question for ya: Is it possible to use the SR-74 or 74x sleeve with the non threaded cap on an SR-71 or is that a no-go? If it is possible is there any way I can order a pair of those sleeves? I generally use the herc without the heat shield because unscrewing that cap to reload almost always throws of the resistance and on the go it's a pain to adjust a dirty/oily herc. A thread less cap would be great but I'm not willing to move down to the lower power rods on the newer models, I like my white-71 rods!

I think this should work fine and you can order the threadless top caps on w9tech.com. The 71, 74, 74x and 74z all seem to be the same diameter.
 

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
Yes indeed, I scored the adapter for my existing SR-71, a second 510 SR-71, four new ti coils and two spare white-71 rods. I figure since my original has been running for over three years (and somewhere around 1lb of errl) with no problems a tune up and a spare should have me set for something approaching a decade as far as the herc itself.

Question for ya: Is it possible to use the SR-74 or 74x sleeve with the non threaded cap on an SR-71 or is that a no-go? If it is possible is there any way I can order a pair of those sleeves? I generally use the herc without the heat shield because unscrewing that cap to reload almost always throws of the resistance and on the go it's a pain to adjust a dirty/oily herc. A thread less cap would be great but I'm not willing to move down to the lower power rods on the newer models, I like my white-71 rods!
The SR-71 on w9tech.com is 601 threaded for the Persei and 8, you'd need to snag an additional adapter bottom insulator to make it 510 threaded. Then you should be set for another pound or so.. I'm always in awe of how much use you've gotten from your Hercules. Mind if I ask how often you've needed to replace the PTFE insulators during that time?

The SR-74 (no x) is the only chamber that has top threadings and the threaded top cap. It was added by customer request and removed for the -x as the threads were too easily gummed with oil and made removing the cap difficult. The chamber's the same diameter, so yes, It's possible to insert and use a non-threaded top cap into an SR-74 chamber if you wish. However, it's noticeably different than your SR-71's fitment, especially once tacky oil's gotten on the threads of the chamber walls. I found myself using a torch to gently heat the upper bit of the -74 chamber to pull out the threaded top cap, a bit more often, not as convenient.

As far as the issue with changing resistance if you unthread the top cap, what part seems to be loosening on your Hercules? You shouldn't have to forego the heatshield to use the Herc reliably; 95%+ of my Hercules use has been with the Nibbler for which the heat shield is required, and I've not had many issues during unthreading and loading. I take my mouthpiece off first, and usually unthread the heat shield second, so that I don't accidentally get oil on the plastic threading when I reinstall the top cap..

The ceramic rods themselves have different resistances, meaning that a certain voltage will result in a different wattage (level of power) but the power levels the rods can reach (if supplied with adequate voltage) should be the same. Models of Hercules later than the SR-71 are rated to 35 watts maximum, about 6.7 amps, due to the design of the spring loaded center post. The rods themselves, though, are capable of much higher power levels, and in fact my Black rod has delivered the highest powered Hercules hits I've ever taken.

I hope @THC SCIENTIFIC doesn't mind me sharing... Do not try this at home. Do not do this on a Persei. I have actually used my Black rod with 2x 18650 batteries on my 8, DON'T DO THIS WITH 18350 BATTERIES which delivers in the neighborhood of 70-80 watts.


This video is of my first attempt in this configuration. I only did a few sessions like this as the vapor output is extreme with very short pulses of power, too much for me to enjoy. This rod is still working as well as it did on its first fire and in an interesting turn of events, lives today inside Bubbleman's Hercules, still vaping strong.

So, I would not be concerned at all with using the lower resistance rods in any 3.7V based mod configuration. Not sure if there is a big difference with electrical load on the battery but the voltage won't have to be stepped up as high to deliver the same wattage.

PS: When you get into the newest generation of mods with 11.1v lipo batteries things get different since you're always bucking battery power, Theoretically could be more efficient than the 3.7V based mods out there. Im not a mod expert at all and am just beginning to learn about these guys.
 

lonelyhero

the lost soul
Company Rep
I still need to get a couple 510 adapter insulators to try the herc on my sigelei 150tc and my snow wolf 200
 
lonelyhero,

Hashassin

the uniBHOmber
The SR-71 on w9tech.com is 601 threaded for the Persei and 8, you'd need to snag an additional adapter bottom insulator to make it 510 threaded. Then you should be set for another pound or so.. I'm always in awe of how much use you've gotten from your Hercules. Mind if I ask how often you've needed to replace the PTFE insulators during that time?

The SR-74 (no x) is the only chamber that has top threadings and the threaded top cap. It was added by customer request and removed for the -x as the threads were too easily gummed with oil and made removing the cap difficult. The chamber's the same diameter, so yes, It's possible to insert and use a non-threaded top cap into an SR-74 chamber if you wish. However, it's noticeably different than your SR-71's fitment, especially once tacky oil's gotten on the threads of the chamber walls. I found myself using a torch to gently heat the upper bit of the -74 chamber to pull out the threaded top cap, a bit more often, not as convenient.

As far as the issue with changing resistance if you unthread the top cap, what part seems to be loosening on your Hercules? You shouldn't have to forego the heatshield to use the Herc reliably; 95%+ of my Hercules use has been with the Nibbler for which the heat shield is required, and I've not had many issues during unthreading and loading. I take my mouthpiece off first, and usually unthread the heat shield second, so that I don't accidentally get oil on the plastic threading when I reinstall the top cap..

The ceramic rods themselves have different resistances, meaning that a certain voltage will result in a different wattage (level of power) but the power levels the rods can reach (if supplied with adequate voltage) should be the same. Models of Hercules later than the SR-71 are rated to 35 watts maximum, about 6.7 amps, due to the design of the spring loaded center post. The rods themselves, though, are capable of much higher power levels, and in fact my Black rod has delivered the highest powered Hercules hits I've ever taken.

I hope @THC SCIENTIFIC doesn't mind me sharing... Do not try this at home. Do not do this on a Persei. I have actually used my Black rod with 2x 18650 batteries on my 8, DON'T DO THIS WITH 18350 BATTERIES which delivers in the neighborhood of 70-80 watts.


This video is of my first attempt in this configuration. I only did a few sessions like this as the vapor output is extreme with very short pulses of power, too much for me to enjoy. This rod is still working as well as it did on its first fire and in an interesting turn of events, lives today inside Bubbleman's Hercules, still vaping strong.

So, I would not be concerned at all with using the lower resistance rods in any 3.7V based mod configuration. Not sure if there is a big difference with electrical load on the battery but the voltage won't have to be stepped up as high to deliver the same wattage.

PS: When you get into the newest generation of mods with 11.1v lipo batteries things get different since you're always bucking battery power, Theoretically could be more efficient than the 3.7V based mods out there. Im not a mod expert at all and am just beginning to learn about these guys.


Right on, for background I'm a semi-retired concentrate artist that went into the vape market and out of hashish making when I had my kid a few years back. I'm pretty familiar with all the ins and outs of vaping in general. I have a (tiny) juice company and run a little vape shop day by day.

You do make an interesting point on the lower resistance of the black-71 rod. 115w on the disguiser vs the 50w or so with the white rod....and of course you're right, I meant to order two 510 bases...damn. I'm going to submit a ticket and hope they see it before they ship and will add a black rod and another base.

Working in the vape industry in Mendo has given me a lot of opportunity to vape a lot of things, with a lot of things and I've yet to find a better concentrate portable than the SR-71. The hercules might require a little learning curve in assembly and use for optimal results but the hits are better than any other portable errl vape I've seen, the taste is great and the damn thing is indestructable. I too have run the herc at much higher wattages though I don't think I've hit it at your 80w. I used to run it all the time at 50w until i decided I hated the old 510/601 adapter and went to exclusively using it with the IRIS. A little cleaning and re-assembly and cleaning every month or three is all it has ever asked of me. All my rods are fine, though the contact metal is flaking off on my most heavily used one. Still works.

This thing is a beast, and no I have not ever had to change the pfte insulator out. I did change it once but it was because I lost and dropped one while cleaning not because there was anything wrong with the insulator. For the lion's share of it's use I've puffed long 20-30 pulls at around 30w with the IRIS....it fluctuates a lot due to the VV nature of the output and the constantly changing resistance of the rod. I'm worried my IRIS is going to die soon as well, it's been reading the resistance VERY off sometimes and regularly turns itself off now. It isn't the connection (herc threads, battery connect etc) anywhere down the line that i can identify so I'm guessing the chip is on it's way out. I've replaced the ti wick twice because of torch burning to clean which isn't something I suggest but now and then I've done it. A few light torchings and it definitely needs replacing. Iso bath works better but, *shrugs* I've also tried torch cleaning a rod, and while I have never done it again it didn't hurt it at all. Dry firing it works fine though so other than the ambient heat bleeding into the IRIS chip there isn't any reason not to just dry fire it and call it good.

Basically it's held up to whatever the hell I've felt like doing to it and once I got past that initial method of use and cooling learning curve the only thing that can outdo it is a torch or enail. Lots of tiny puffs on one decent load? check. Long savory puffs that preserve flavor? check. Huge nail-esque dabs of .5 or so at a time? check. It does seem to prefer stable, solid or fairly solid concentrates but it hasn't ever failed to work with any form or consistency of dabbable material I've thrown at it.

sheesh, i'm at work and it's been so busy this reply has taken half the day to write!

*edit* still at work and we usually close over 2 hours ago, BUSY day!
While I have a moment I wanted to say other than overheating from continuous high heat usage or from a short there isn't any reason an insulator would wear out with any rapidity. pfte is pretty good stuff, I've never even thought to worry about it nor have I seen any indication in color or texture or fluctuations in resistance to think my insulator was worn...... I'm curious as to why you asked, is insulator replacement a regular issue with some herc users? I'm not very active on the forums lately due to time constraints. Mainly I do my best to follow this thread in particular as a fan of the hercules. I come here for all medvape related questions first (if i don't already know YOU are the community i ask, thank you!) and try to keep abreast but this forum is much too active for me to keep pace with these days.
 
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SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
@Hashassin Thanks again for sharing your use... The small white PTFE insulators occasionally need to be replaced by some (myself included) but not all. After so much use, I'm wondering if replacing a set of them might hold your center post more firmly to the threaded assembly, is this the part that seems to be loosening up when you unthread the heat shield from the Hercules?

I've never seen discoloration, what I've noticed is purely physical wear that can cause the gaskets to compress/deform over time. If they get real squishy they're hard to fit back in place when reinstalling. Maybe I'm over tightening my center post to the threaded assembly.

You're also on the low side of coils used for the amount of oil consumed, which to me indicates you take care of your equipment, I've killed more coils than that with far less oil used, until I figured out better ways to install/remove coils. Just attach your order number to your ticket and I'll be sure we get your order attended to before it ships out :)
 

Conky

Well-Known Member
Anyone have any suggestion on a travel case? Looking for as small as possible to fit the herc, evic mini, small oil container and an extra battery. Was looking at the Pelican 1015, I just can't find a store near me to actually check in person to verify the fit.
 
Conky,

mutten840

Well-Known Member
So I got my Tesla stealth today and it looked like it would accommodate the water attachment for the Herc

Guess what. It worked!!!!!

I twisted it into the body and it sits snug but not tight where I would have concerns. The pull is on spot and glugs just like it does on a normal mod. I honestly think it looks like it was meant to be as mine had the perfect amount of gap for glass to sit in. The best part is the inside area where the glass touches the Tesla is rubber coated so there is the perfect amount of grip to cushion.

I will need to do more "Testing" but so far the Tesla stealth is a sweet little mod

Proof of the unicorn




 

chronickiller7

Well-Known Member
So I decided to stop messing around with overpriced pre-filled carts and go back to filling my own haha. I went to order an Alpha Centauri V2, and saw I can't choose a thread type. Are they all 510 now? and is there a difference between the Alpha Centauri and the Alpha Globe V2?
 
chronickiller7,

StormyPinkness

Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
As much as I hate cleaning it, I love a freshly cleaned herc. Even after months of use it will still work well and taste amazing, but there's nothing like a clean one. A little more responsive and a little tastier. Actually tried it for the first time on my evic and it went pretty well. 23w seemed to be my sweet spot. I'll probably keep using my persei, I like the form factor much better, but it worked pretty well. Makes me excited for the new persei.

I forget if I posted this before, but with my nibbler xl a broken dream I've been using @Ratchett 's song on the herc and it's worked really well. Nothing is as secure and easy and classy etc as the nibbler xl for the herc, but this definitely works. It's a little awkward and very, very phallic looking. Please ignore the dirty glass.
jiz4wo.jpg


npruo5.jpg
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
As much as I hate cleaning it, I love a freshly cleaned herc. Even after months of use it will still work well and taste amazing, but there's nothing like a clean one. A little more responsive and a little tastier. Actually tried it for the first time on my evic and it went pretty well. 23w seemed to be my sweet spot. I'll probably keep using my persei, I like the form factor much better, but it worked pretty well. Makes me excited for the new persei.

I forget if I posted this before, but with my nibbler xl a broken dream I've been using @Ratchett 's song on the herc and it's worked really well. Nothing is as secure and easy and classy etc as the nibbler xl for the herc, but this definitely works. It's a little awkward and very, very phallic looking. Please ignore the dirty glass.
jiz4wo.jpg


npruo5.jpg
I'm so stoked to fire up my W9 TECH stuff.
Your photo's are so on fire! (in a proper way)
f0RKJnh.jpg
 
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Hashassin

the uniBHOmber
As much as I hate cleaning it, I love a freshly cleaned herc. Even after months of use it will still work well and taste amazing, but there's nothing like a clean one. A little more responsive and a little tastier."

Ha! I agree with every word there. It does still work great and taste better than most vapes after months of use but damnit it is so much nicer fresh and clean!

I tend to half clean mine more often than a full breakdown. Basically just the coil, ceramic rod and upper chamber. I leave the bottom half and the reclaim chamber alone until there is actually enough in there to be worth reclaiming.....which usually only happens if a friend unfamiliar the the herc gets a few rips and lets it all sink down accidentally.
 

StormyPinkness

Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
I tend to half clean mine more often than a full breakdown. Basically just the coil, ceramic rod and upper chamber. I leave the bottom half and the reclaim chamber alone until there is actually enough in there to be worth reclaiming
That's funny, I had never thought of just cleaning the top chamber, I always just clean the whole thing out of habit or something. Definitely doesn't need it every time now that I think about it.
 

bdmonkeyj3w

Well-Known Member
That's funny, I had never thought of just cleaning the top chamber, I always just clean the whole thing out of habit or something. Definitely doesn't need it every time now that I think about it.

Alot of times i dont even take the chamber apart, just pull the ti out and drop it and the still assembled top chamber into boiling iso and then boiling water rinse and heat gun dry. Much quicker than disassembling and reassembling, but if youve got burnt stuff on the rod it wont get it super cleab.
 

Hashassin

the uniBHOmber
Alot of times i dont even take the chamber apart, just pull the ti out and drop it and the still assembled top chamber into boiling iso and then boiling water rinse and heat gun dry. Much quicker than disassembling and reassembling, but if youve got burnt stuff on the rod it wont get it super cleab.

Boiling iso and a heat gun is also my preferred method of cleaning. I usually do have to take the chamber apart to get my screen out though, I squish them pretty good, needs a thin piece of wire to push it out enough I can grab it. I accidentally squished one of my new ones too much in response to it continuously sliding up during use even after a gentle squeeze. Stays put now damnit!


quick cell phone video of my herc hit a moment ago
 
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Hedonismbot

Well-Known Member
Boiling iso and a heat gun is also my preferred method of cleaning. I usually do have to take the chamber apart to get my screen out though, I squish them pretty good, needs a thin piece of wire to push it out enough I can grab it. I accidentally squished one of my new ones too much in response to it continuously sliding up during use even after a gentle squeeze. Stays put now damnit!

Hi guys. I haven't posted in a LONG while but I thought I'd chime in here, now with about 100 grams of wax through my 3 SR-71s (in rotation) I've settled into, what I think is, a simple and effective cleaning routine. After about 8-10 grams of wax thru a given Herc, when the taste deteriorates to an annoying level, I simply do an oil change. I hold the Herc upside down (with the top cap off) with a pair of pliers and heat it with a heat gun and let the old oil drip out. After a few minutes and dozen drops of black residue I'm done. I reload with fresh wax and surprisingly the taste is largely restored. Good for another 8-10 grams. BUT I only do this once. After the 2nd batch of grams I do a thorough cleaning. Also, the Herc is much easier to prime again after draining the old oil.

To thoroughly clean the Herc I drain out the old oil first as above and while its still hot I pluck out the Ti sponge with a dental pick. I separate the top and bottom chambers while still warm but I always leave the heating rod mounted in the upper chamber. I clean everything but the oil sponge in iso, dry and reassemble the Herc. With it reassembled, but with no Ti sponge, I put it on the Persei and heat the rod until I can see it glowing red in a darkened room. After it cools down I brush away the bit of ash left on the rod with a tiny brush and I'm left with a heating rod that looks brand new.

To clean the drained oil sponge I found that boiling briefly in a small bit of distilled water in a paper cup really blasts out the gunk left in the sponge. I do this maybe 3 times until nothing comes out anymore. Then I let the sponge soak in iso for a day or two. I boil it in water one more time and dry it thoroughly in a toaster oven.

That's it. Really easy and since it takes me at least 2 weeks to go through a gram of wax I don't have to clean very often.

I still love my Hercs and still think they are the best for my medication needs.
 
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DrRishi

Well-Known Member
I was fortunate enough to be able to acquire some more W9Tech gear from a forum member recently. One of the items was the Hammer. It had the original rod and since I wanted to use it with my nail (no more blow-torch) I had to get hold of the 1200F rod. Found one in Canada and just tried it out for the first time. It does feel like you are wielding a weapon as it get red hot. Using it on the nail gives a good result. Very different from making the nail hot and putting a dab on it. The release of vapour is slower and more controlled. Very smooth but not a gigantic cloud producer. Anyway it works and really hits the mark!

Any other Hammer users, would be interested in how you use it.
 
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