The Arizer Air

trance89 said:

hi there
yesterday i lost the rubber opener cap on my air, is there any place i could buy a new one?
thanks very much for your help

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Unfortunately, while I recall folks asking, I don't recall any sources for the factory part. It's different but similar on Solo, but no sources there, either?

To be honest, many/most of us remove them. Gets in the way. I'm not sure where I put them so I wouldn't forget where they are....... But, I bet if you posted a 'wanted' in the for sale thread you might get someone who can remember?

You might consider an alternative (say a one inch vinyl cap?) or soldier on with your modified unit? Sucker sticks out too far on Air anyway.........always in the way. Some people are like that, too.

Good luck.

OF

OF said:

Unfortunately, while I recall folks asking, I don't recall any sources for the factory part. It's different but similar on Solo, but no sources there, either?

To be honest, many/most of us remove them. Gets in the way. I'm not sure where I put them so I wouldn't forget where they are....... But, I bet if you posted a 'wanted' in the for sale thread you might get someone who can remember?

You might consider an alternative (say a one inch vinyl cap?) or soldier on with your modified unit? Sucker sticks out too far on Air anyway.........always in the way. Some people are like that, too.

Good luck.

OF

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I've been keeping up and lurking this thread, but only since about the start of this year so I've definitely missed a bunch.

Has there been anyone who has found or engineered an alternative to the top cap on the Air? I haven't seen anyone who has, seems like more people dislike it than like it.

I love having mine, it came off and luckily I was able to put it back in without breaking the thing. Not the most robust piece, so I'm assuming it will happen again at some point, or just break entirely. I just don't want to worry about foreign objects entering the oven and the inside of the vape itself (as slim as the chances are).

Looks like the oven measures 5/8", or ~15.8 mm. I was thinking about trying cork, Chinese plastics irk me if this thing is going to deal with heat.

canary said:

Has there been anyone who has found or engineered an alternative to the top cap on the Air? I haven't seen anyone who has, seems like more people dislike it than like it.

Looks like the oven measures 5/8", or ~15.8 mm. I was thinking about trying cork, Chinese plastics irk me if this thing is going to deal with heat.

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Sure. Just because a guy might not like it doesn't mean he hasn't tried it? Standard 'number 2 corks' (or #2 as it's more often listed) will do it:
https://www.amazon.com/Frey-Scientific-Natural-Diameter-Bottom/dp/B00FGDTVUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467421293&sr=8-1&keywords=#2+corks

Not that you should buy 100, I got a couple at the local Hardware Store. The key is the number 2 size, something like 9mm on one end and 13 on the other? 17mm nominal length for those still in metric mode.

At one point I had one on a string tied to the desk so it's be handy and not get lost......that didn't last.

I've also successfully tried vinyl caps similar to these:
https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Flow-Pull-End-Inch/dp/B00CJIAYXY/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1467421406&sr=8-26&keywords=1+inch+vinyl+cap'

The Air is a bit over one inch, but the one I got at the store stretches a bit and fits fine. The covers often used on dress fittings might also work (although I've never tried this)?
https://www.amazon.com/SANITARY-TRI-CLOVER-TRI-CLAMP-PROTECTORS--1½/dp/B01HNFWF3E/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1467421406&sr=8-17&keywords=1+inch+vinyl+cap'

OF

battersup21 said:

Hello Everybody, I am fairly new to this site. I just picked up a new Arizer Air and was wondering if anybody had any tips they could give me. I am having trouble getting good vapor production. Right now my draws are pathetic, very whispy with very low vapor production. I am left hugely disappointed after my first 3 sessions.

I have a pretty high tolerance and like to take large draws and get big clouds typically out of any vaping device. I am the type that would prefer 3 or 4 huge ones rather than 10 small ones.

Right now I am doing a medium grind and not packing to tight. I have done both full sized bowls and 3/4 sized bowls, both have the same poor results. I am using the 2 highest heat settings to get the most of it (orange and red). It just seems the heat is not traveling through my herb enough, the glass stem gets hot but thats about it. The herb stays green and is not turning dark brown at all.

If anybody is getting great vapor production I would love to hear how you are doing it. I am sure draw speed has a lot do with it (every device has a curve), but I have been drawing slow and just not getting it done! Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Try loosening the stem a little bit to get more airflow.

battersup21 said:

Hello Everybody, I am fairly new to this site. I just picked up a new Arizer Air and was wondering if anybody had any tips they could give me. I am having trouble getting good vapor production. Right now my draws are pathetic, very whispy with very low vapor production. I am left hugely disappointed after my first 3 sessions.

I have a pretty high tolerance and like to take large draws and get big clouds typically out of any vaping device. I am the type that would prefer 3 or 4 huge ones rather than 10 small ones.

Right now I am doing a medium grind and not packing to tight. I have done both full sized bowls and 3/4 sized bowls, both have the same poor results. I am using the 2 highest heat settings to get the most of it (orange and red). It just seems the heat is not traveling through my herb enough, the glass stem gets hot but thats about it. The herb stays green and is not turning dark brown at all.

If anybody is getting great vapor production I would love to hear how you are doing it. I am sure draw speed has a lot do with it (every device has a curve), but I have been drawing slow and just not getting it done! Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Hi, I am 68 years old , smoked Marlboro 50+ years, so getting enormous clouds is not 1 of my goals.
What seems to work for me is letting the AA reach the chosen temperature (I use Blue & White , the 2 lowest).
Once the blue light has become solid, I take a few short gentle tokes...I notice an increase in flavor before I see any vapor. When the "test puffs" have indicated proper heat has been achieved, I smile.

Mouth to lung hits are what I do most of the time, but occasionally I will do a long gentle constant inhale directly to the lungs. Sometimes I get noticeable vapor clouds, other times not so much, but even when there is little visible vapor, I still get the amazing clear tasty flavors ( once the correct temperature has been obtained ).

I use the cheap grinder that came with it...seems to work fine.

I rarely fill the bowl 1/2 way, usually 1/4...I get 2 to 4 "test puffs", then 2 to 4 very nice tokes. The used herb does turn light to medium brown , and it gets crispy.

I also bought 16 - 18650 batteries ( various brands, get 'em cheap on EBAY ) & an Intellicharger i-4, so I never worry about running out power.

I bought the Arizer Extreme Q 1st, and I thought it was the greatest thing since indoor plumbing.
Since I got the AA and learned how it works best for me ( your best technique may be different ), I use the AA at home as much as the "Q ".

sending vape signals,
Universurfr

Universurfr said:

I bought the Arizer Extreme Q 1st, and I thought it was the greatest thing since indoor plumbing.

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Sounds like a true carpenter! I've had my extreme q for nearly 6 years.

battersup21 said:

Hello Everybody, I am fairly new to this site. I just picked up a new Arizer Air and was wondering if anybody had any tips they could give me. I am having trouble getting good vapor production. Right now my draws are pathetic, very whispy with very low vapor production. I am left hugely disappointed after my first 3 sessions.

I have a pretty high tolerance and like to take large draws and get big clouds typically out of any vaping device. I am the type that would prefer 3 or 4 huge ones rather than 10 small ones.

Right now I am doing a medium grind and not packing to tight. I have done both full sized bowls and 3/4 sized bowls, both have the same poor results. I am using the 2 highest heat settings to get the most of it (orange and red). It just seems the heat is not traveling through my herb enough, the glass stem gets hot but thats about it. The herb stays green and is not turning dark brown at all.

If anybody is getting great vapor production I would love to hear how you are doing it. I am sure draw speed has a lot do with it (every device has a curve), but I have been drawing slow and just not getting it done! Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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For big hits I try to keep it a bit on the packed side, rather than real loose. Real loose gives me airy hits. But it can't be so packed that when I take the second draw it is all plugged up. I also usually use a small domed screen at the bottom of my stem. Not domed too much, and I found even a flat screen works fine as long as it is elevated above where the holes are in the GonG or stem.

Turn your temp up to the 4th level and place it on the gong on top of your bubbler and let it heat up the herb for 4-5 minutes. Then draw for 45-60 seconds, at a rate so as you hit about 2/3 of your lung capacity when the time is up. Really slow so I can just about hear the individual bubbles. Clear the bubbler and hold it in, then exhale.

The heat soak really helps. It's not really any faster than drawing at a faster pace from what I have seen. It's just bigger hits less frequently. The way I see it for the most part with my air is can extract X amount of vapor over time, at a set temp within a certain tolerance/variability.

I either flavor chase or go for really dense hits. I promise you can get some chokers with your Air unless it is not functioning properly or if you are not inserting your stem all the way into the unit. I did that. :/


Actually if you have the Air you can get a 14 mm reducer for a bubbler and just use the plastic tipped stem instead of a GonG from what I understand.

Keep trying and take long pulls. Make sure you have some good herb and see if it still stays green. It should not be green when you finish a session.

Oh yeah, other people mentioned damp herb. That will lead to those issues as well.

do we have a cheaper PVHES stem yet? preferably from china?

akwardsauce said:

do we have a cheaper PVHES stem yet? preferably from china?

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none that work

... also, a guide to how to get a good buzz using the AA.

I like a medium grind with my AA and a loose pack as others have stated. Vaporizers don't do well with cannabis that is too damp. Let your cannsbis sit out for a day and tear it into smaller pieces. Then grind. Nice clouds are great but ask yourself if you are getting medicated. That's the bottom line. Having good quality cannabis to start with is a must.

You can't compare a portable to a desk style vaporizer. The AA is stealth, easy to use and clean. Also not many small parts to lose. It's main job is to produce vapor so that your body can absorb your medicine by inhaling. It does that quite well for me and on the down low.

A great vaporizer for a road trip.

Edit
I don't like too dry either because then it can be too harsh and you don't taste the flavor as well in the midst of the harshness. That's my preference, yours might be different.

I usually just dry all of my cannabis then break it apart by hand. Get clouds and feel extra medicated. I usually just dry it all at once then keep it in an air tight capsule.

Oh yeah, I left out one technique to help with big pulls. After the second or so pull depending on how much vapor is produced, empty the stem, break it up a little between your fingers, and suck it back up and insert back in the vape. I have emptied it too soon and seen vapor escape.

Once the vapor drops off, empty it out for sure, rub it between your fingers and hit it again. Once I started dumping it out, breaking it up again, and reloading, I started getting a lot more out of my herb than simply loading once.

I know people have written you can just stuff a bud in there and not worry about stirring or anything, which I agree with, you definitely can. But I have not found it the case to vape the whole load as completely like that and definitely get more mileage from breaking it up mid session. Give it at least two pulls first though.

I was getting some giant rips last night with just the plastic tipped stem and no water.

Also like Carol King I don't like my herb cracker dry, just kind of like if you were trying to roll a good joint (that doesn't burn out or leave black ash) or very slightly dryer. That is no problem in my area though, I have gotten herb on the damp side one time in a decade or longer.

Lately I've been using a medium grind with a screen but if you don't use one you will get more air flow. If you don't use a screen little nuggets would work better or a more coarse grind. It's important that you don't pack your cannabis. Always making sure your screen doesn't get dirty if using one. A stir half way through your session can help with added clouds.

I have the shorty turbo PVHES mouthpiece which doesn't have much restriction. It's a single bore hole with a screen. I bought it through @PlanetVape I like a regular Solo length stem so not so harsh with the added length. Not stealth though.

Sometimes it's just seeing which way the AA works for you. I usually get pretty good vapor and pretty good clouds but clouds aren't important to me. If it vaporizes your cannabis well that's the important thing. Your cannabis should be well cured to get the most out of your session.

My Air that was previously replaced under Warranty has now developed a fault. The bottom light flickers a lot when heating and stops working a few minutes into a session. I'm not sure it's getting to full heat either.

Has anyone else experienced this particular fault before? I was wondering if there's anything I can try to help remedy the problem.

I expect I will probably have to attempt to return it to Arizer support again, assuming they will still fix it for me once more. I am still within the two year purchase period, and it's less than a year since I got the replacement unit so I'm hopeful they will help. I'm glad I brought a spare Air, it's proved necessary due to the reliability issues I've experienced. I feel a bit vulnerable with only the one Air to use now, as my remaining working unit is almost a year old, so although I'm a light user I expect a failure some time soon based on my experiences. It's probably about time I looked for a more reliable backup vape, just in case.

spiggot said:

Has anyone else experienced this particular fault before? I was wondering if there's anything I can try to help remedy the problem.

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Sure sounds like a lame battery. You have two Airs (each with their own battery), what happens when you swap them?

Otherwise Arizer should honor the warranty and replace it provided it's been less than two years from the original purchase (not replacement). Since you didn't pay for the replacement there is no new agreement for two more years, all you have is the original contract on the unit you did pay for.

OF

OF said:

Sure sounds like a lame battery. You have two Airs (each with their own battery), what happens when you swap them?

Otherwise Arizer should honor the warranty and replace it provided it's been less than two years from the original purchase (not replacement). Since you didn't pay for the replacement there is no new agreement for two more years, all you have is the original contract on the unit you did pay for.

OF

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I just went to double check this, as I have several batteries. Unfortunately the problem remains using several different genuine original fully charged Air batteries. The bottom light didn't flicker much this time, however the unit died within 2 minutes from cold on lowest heat setting. I just tested this three times. Flickering lights I can deal with, but the cut off and lower heat makes the device pretty much unusable.

Arizer were quite good last time in arranging for me to return to a UK vape shop company rather than shipping overseas. However that companies web site now seems to have been taken down. I've tried emailing anyway, as well as Arizer themselves. I hope there is a local alternative so I don't have to return future failures back to Canada from now on.

GetLeft said:

Taste with the Air is high quality at low temps, and sacrificed (as with most vaporizers I'd assume) as temps rise. I love the flavor of the AA at blue (lowest temp) where I tend to stay as long as I can before moving up (usually no more than one step up to white)

The Air is not hard to get working quickly. I used mine straight out of the box (and I'm a dope) and have continued to do so right up to now (a year or so later). But it does indeed improve (as can any vape) with practice and with techniques that are well suited to it (use of a domed screen, lightly packed stem, 'draw speed awareness,' etc.).

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Experimenting with low temperature vaping, i took out my AA after a long hiatus to give it some testing. i've had this device for maybe 6 months, purchased as a backup for my Crafty... After some test runs on Blue setting 356f which i'd never used (always started at green), i'm impressed by the flavour. i always thought the AA produced decent flavour, but not nearly as nice as my Crafty. Now i'd say the flavour is just as nice. low temp vaping at 350f on my Crafty tastes great, the flavour is nice all the way through, but i think maybe the AA holds an even nicer flavour for a longer duration. Blue is the way to go.

battersup21 said:

My ABV is very green still, only the bottom surface layer that touches the heater is getting slightly darker. It seems that I am not "drawing" the heat through the herb enough.....But when I draw harder the results become worse. To be honest I am confused if I need to draw slower or quicker...

I would be interested to hear what type of draw speeds you guys are using that are getting good results w/ dark brown ABV.

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Possible you have a deffective unit? i've never had a bad session with AA. even on blue setting my ABV gets thoroughly roasted

spiggot said:

The bottom light didn't flicker much this time, however the unit died within 2 minutes from cold on lowest heat setting. I just tested this three times. Flickering lights I can deal with, but the cut off and lower heat makes the device pretty much unusable.

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Strange indeed. Since the performance changed with battery change, the original battery is definitely a factor? Also, since the battery was only able to heat (it did get warmer, right?) only a tiny fraction of normal, the capacity of that battery is highly suspect.

To be clear, if you take the charged battery out of the working unit and put it in the dead one it doesn't work and yet if you take a battery that doesn't work from the dead one it will do a couple sessions on the other? The definitive test is, I think, just that. A battery that will not work one but has no problems with the other.

This also eliminates charging issues since the test is only 'will a known good battery work it?'.

Once you're convinced a good battery will work one and not the other it's probably time to contact Arizer.

Good luck with it.

OF

spiggot said:

My Air that was previously replaced under Warranty has now developed a fault. The bottom light flickers a lot when heating and stops working a few minutes into a session. I'm not sure it's getting to full heat either.

Has anyone else experienced this particular fault before? I was wondering if there's anything I can try to help remedy the problem.

Click to expand...

I had this same problem and posted about it here a few months back. Tested it with 3 different batteries. Eventually had to RMA it to puffitup. The replacement has been working great.

Edit: Here is past me describing the issue: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-arizer-air.16415/page-365#post-974769

Hey guys!


For everyone who chooses to use the black tipped Air stem as a GONG because it is so much less expensive than a dedicated Gong:

Puffitup just sent me an email with a code to get a water adapter (real GONG) for $10.

Don't think the mods would like me to post the code here, but PM me or email PIU for code.

BTW, anyone with any experience using the newest Solo stems? This bent stem fits so tightly in my Solo (with oring) that you could pick it up by the stem and shake and it does not come loose?

nihil said:

I had this same problem and posted about it here a few months back. Tested it with 3 different batteries. Eventually had to RMA it to puffitup. The replacement has been working great.

Edit: Here is past me describing the issue: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-arizer-air.16415/page-365#post-974769

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That sounds very similar to what I'm seeing here. Thanks for posting it, glad to hear I'm not alone. Arizer tell me there is less than 1% failure rate on the Air, so I guess I'm really unlucky if this is true.

OF said:

Strange indeed. Since the performance changed with battery change, the original battery is definitely a factor? Also, since the battery was only able to heat (it did get warmer, right?) only a tiny fraction of normal, the capacity of that battery is highly suspect.

To be clear, if you take the charged battery out of the working unit and put it in the dead one it doesn't work and yet if you take a battery that doesn't work from the dead one it will do a couple sessions on the other? The definitive test is, I think, just that. A battery that will not work one but has no problems with the other.

This also eliminates charging issues since the test is only 'will a known good battery work it?'.

Once you're convinced a good battery will work one and not the other it's probably time to contact Arizer.

Good luck with it.

OF

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All of my batteries work fine in my working Air. All of my batteries have the same problem in my failed Air. Therefore I can only conclude that it's the unit at fault, not the batteries. The flickery light thing is erratic, but the cutting off after a couple of minutes is every single time I use it. Resetting hasn't helped either.

Arizer have been asking me some interesting questions regarding the power output on my charger, such as whether it's left plugged in post charging and whether it's plugged into a surge protected power bar or directly into outlet. I'm surprised some of these things make a difference, but they clearly must do if they're being asked. I'm pleased that they have responded though, hopefully this will get sorted quickly so I'm not relying on just one working unit.

spiggot said:

Arizer have been asking me some interesting questions regarding the power output on my charger, such as whether it's left plugged in post charging and whether it's plugged into a surge protected power bar or directly into outlet. I'm surprised some of these things make a difference, but they clearly must do if they're being asked.

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Exactly so. "Plug strips" and 'full time charging' have been problems for others in the past (and other vapes as well). There are numerous cases here and with Solo. In fact some guy reported improved performance simply from changing outlets? I don't understand fully, but I believe their reports?

You're absolutely right, that Arizer's Customer Service guys being professional on ya right there. You're in good hands.

OF

My original solo never gave problems until I plugged it in an dodgy outlet at a beach house we were staying in.

So guys, been gone a while, nice to see everyone still enjoying their Air....



Yep 2 years on the forum and glad to be back.

Still haven't found an answer to my Air problem.

The spring-loaded pin which connected the unit to the ground (on the battery cover) will not spring out anymore.

I've submitted my Air to a licensed dealer and repairman, but he hasn't gotten word back from the Higher Ups about how to address this problem...

Wonder if @OF or anybody has come up with a solution to this...

Sorry if this has been covered already. If it has, would you kindly post a link to the appropriate post ?

Thanks a bunch for being a great group here on FC, I've gotten a lot of tips and tricks from y'all...