It will have temp control very similar to fw3, i.e no trigger.
I didn't get the FW3, so pardon my ignorance. But I was under the impression you went digital (as it has settings etc) but it wasn't clear to me if it was freerunning like the FW2.1 is (you can combust if you overdo) or if it was a closed-loop system with some kind of temperature sensor feedback or resistance change read etc?
The heater power isn't a simple answer because it varies on the battery charge, draw speed, heater temperature, etc. For a room temp start at full battery charge it will be around 32W and for low battery around 24W.
So it will be unregulated... hm. It would be even better if you could get rid of the battery level parameter, by using a boost converter to get a constant voltage output. Battery draw (in term of amps) would rise as the source voltage drops, but if you select your parameters carefully you should not exceed the battery rating. A buck/boost converter would be even better and in fact it's what most single cell e-cig box mods use.
By the way I would really prefer if you took advantage of the latest high discharge IMR cells, as many of us already have plenty. They can output 20A continuous (even 30A for some with lower capacity) and you can discharge them down to 2.5V (although stopping at 3.2V or above is better for longevity) 32W is not too shabby but you could aim for 40W easily.
Last but not least, I would prefer if you design for flat top cells rather than button tops, but it's just because I have more of the former...
Sorry about the asymmetry (...) The other firewoods seem like simple boxes in comparison.
The wooden brick has appealed to me because I have it in a bag for one of my powerbanks and, at a quick glance, with the mouthpiece loaded down into the bag, it almost looks like powerbank.
I have no doubts it could be made visually appealing but I'm with
@Mr Mellish here, the wooden brick was quite stealthy when not in use and could be passed as a hard drive or another electronic appliance.
But ok, the Elo was particularily ugly and thick... it won't be too hard to do something better looking!
I honestly got pretty sick of holding the trigger on pre-fw3 and I think there is a better way.
As others said having to do a primer puff is not optimal, and many people reported problems with draws not registered using all devices with such kind of sensor.
Also keep in mind that with that much power you will get near instant vapor. In the Milaana we have to preheat for 2 seconds at most (or not at all when hot and running) then hold the button 3 or 4 seconds and release. Some people hold it longer but it's nowhere like what it was with the FW2 and 2.1 were some people resolved to using rubberbands to keep the trigger pressed all the time.
So when it's near instant it's not really a chore anymore. The trick is to select a nice button with a good click and not too much resistance (pressure wise)
With a draw sensor you will always have some users complain that it doesn't register soft draws, and if you set it too sensitive it could trigger just with a breeze... Plus the sensor can get clogged etc.
