Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

With my Herc SR74x and SR71

If I go a long while without cleaning and get buildup preventing me from removing the rod, I would take a small torch lighter and use it to slowly heat the retaining nut until i can turn it by hand.

If i could not turn the nut by hand even after heating a little at a time,I would wrap a cloth around the nut and gently use pliers on the cloth instead.

Once the nut is removed i would clean up any oil remaining on the threads of the nut and the top chamber.

once the nut and top chamber are clean, I would slowly heat the top chamber a little at a time, and push the rod up either with my thumbs, or by setting the rod down against my desk and pushing the top chamber down in order to remove the stuck rod.

i hope this was helpful

Just got my nibbler XL from Puff it up (Thanks to Randy for the hookup) and paired with the Hercules is just mind blowing. It really hits soo smooth and turns the Herc into a portable water cooled dab monster. I mean I thought it would work good. But it has already surpassed what I thought it could do in just my first session. @THC SCIENTIFIC and @SamuraiSam for releasing truly top notch gear for concentrate specific people. This is not a cheap ass 2 dollar pen that you toss in the trash. But a weapon of mass concentrate destruction

XeroRespect said:

I run mine at 23 watts... You should be fine with most mods.

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Thanks! I'm excited for this. I'm going to try it with my Vapor Flask SX, which should have more than enough power. I will report back!

@PM710 beyond the tips offered by @joekar and @lonelyhero I can't think of anything else to add here. Joe and @slozukimc are correct that pliers can be used to loosen the nut if you cannot get it loose with your fingers once heated and soaked in hot isopropyl; however pliers should not be used to grab the rod, that'd be an easy way to break the rod.

If you need further assistance please add me on Skype at samuraisam33 and I will do my best to show some disassembly techniques over webcam.

1272 pages in this thread?!?!? I can't; I just can't.

I got an original Persei 4 years back and never got the thing to function for more than a week or so, even after sending it back to be overhauled. I liked it a lot when it worked. First one leaked badly, second was either user failure or concentrate issues. Since then it has been edibles, an old flightbox, and even (sacrilege!) my old monster tornado bong and combustion. i still have my original barely used Persei with box and all accessories.

I am just now back at the forums after 4 years gone. If anyone could dummy down a Persei history/update for me I would appreciate it: bad TBI, PTSD, chronic pain, etc.. So feel free to over dummy it down. lol.

What is the current state of ease of use? Part of my problem before was inconsistencies in concentrates form the local dispensaries. But part of the problem was too much complexity and options in use for my poor lill TBI'd brain to deal with lol.

I remember they were working on a non-concentrate cartridge back in the day. How did things play out?

Are the new versions use friendly enough that I should consider one or should I look elsewhere for a (very) easy to use vaporizer? Back in the day paying for a device I couldn't use was a BIG hit financially. Since then the VA has bumped my disability rating away up so I'm better off financially; however, they did so for a reason. I am less mentally functional now.

Are the current ones glass & water compatible? If so what gear would I need? Thanks.

@Krazy pickup one of the new omicron v4 and the dual carts it uses will make you very happy with the ease and consistency of using it. Sounds like the smallest version is ideal for cruising and taking ninja tokes. Only difference between it and the other 2 are the overall battery size. But they all will work identically to eachother. So it comes down to preference. The nibbler attachment will keep you rocking tastey water cooled dabs and honestly there is nothing comparable for concentrates in my opinion. The size tokes and taste you get are insane. Best part is there are several user friendly temperatures you can cycle through to make sure you are getting that perfect dab =)

I have had several of the older pens from w9 and the evolution to the latest is where it needed to be. It just took a little time for @THC SCIENTIFIC to perfect the ultimate concentrate pen for people who want a solid, portable, And long lasting device

SamuraiSam said:

@PM710 beyond the tips offered by @joekar and @lonelyhero I can't think of anything else to add here. Joe and @slozukimc are correct that pliers can be used to loosen the nut if you cannot get it loose with your fingers once heated and soaked in hot isopropyl; however pliers should not be used to grab the rod, that'd be an easy way to break the rod.

If you need further assistance please add me on Skype at samuraisam33 and I will do my best to show some disassembly techniques over webcam.

Click to expand...

Thank you everyone for the help. I was indeed finally able to fully disassemble my herc. After 2x12hr soaks in iso and some scrubbing I next heated everything up with boiling water a few times and then used pliers to remove the retaining nut while everything was still hot. Next, I pushed the ceramic rod up and out of the assembly by pushing it against a counter top with extreme force and then continued to push up with a sturdy paper clip until it had been removed. Nothing broke, fortunately. After removing some hard black residue (as much as possible) from the center of the ceramic rod (and within the linear groove) it now goes in and out smoothly.

Thanks again!

It has been a very long time since I cleaned my Herc (most of you would probably throw up at the thought). But, it has been working flawlessly for that extended period so I've been afraid to take it apart. Today I decided I needed to bite the bullet to get it cleaned before the wife and kids are home for the summer. That gives me time to hunt down @SamuraiSam if things go south on me.

It's amazing how sticking the bag of ISO and parts into a measuring cup of hot water accelerates the process of dissolving. The first of two batches of ISO was the color of a cup of tea.

ETA: Went back together fine and I was putting it through several 7 second burns off to get rid of the ISO when the light started flashing red. Just a low battery?

ETA: Charged up the batteries. It didn't take very long, so that doesn't seem like it was the issue. However, I'm getting the magic blue light again. Anything else I should check @SamuraiSam ?

@PM710 Glad to hear it! Sounds like your Herc was in dire need of that cleaning, glad you were able to get it all cleaned up! Don't let it go for so long next time, and your next disassembly should be much easier.

@Mr Mellish First things that come to mind are charging the batteries for sure, pop those on while you check if the Hercules is assembled properly- it could flash red if the Herc needs a little adjustment. if you have an ohm meter or tester you could measure the resistance of the Herc to find out if it's good or not. You could try readjusting the bottom insulator and/or, checking rod placement.

SamuraiSam said:

@PM710 Glad to hear it! Sounds like your Herc was in dire need of that cleaning, glad you were able to get it all cleaned up! Don't let it go for so long next time, and your next disassembly should be much easier.

@Mr Mellish First things that come to mind are charging the batteries for sure, pop those on while you check if the Hercules is assembled properly- it could flash red if the Herc needs a little adjustment. if you have an ohm meter or tester you could measure the resistance of the Herc to find out if it's good or not. You could try readjusting the bottom insulator and/or, checking rod placement.

Click to expand...

@SamuraiSam, the fully assembled Herc registers .16 on your tester.

ETA: Pulled the rod down, now I'm getting 1.72. Is that good?

Mr Mellish said:

@SamuraiSam, the fully assembled Herc registers .16 on your tester.

ETA: Pulled the rod down, now I'm getting 1.72. Is that good?

Click to expand...

Yes that is now acceptable.

XeroRespect said:

I run mine at 23 watts... You should be fine with most mods.

Click to expand...

Just curious, does anyone if it would it work with the "temp control" feature on my mod? If people aren't familiar, this feature allows you to output Joules/Per second instead of Watts (but equal to the same wattage), and set a maximum temperature which the unit is limited to. It seems like it would be useful, and quite cool if the Herc could be used in temp control mode, though not entirely sure if you would see a real benefit or if this is possible. But would be interested to know if anyone has an idea.

That's a fantastic idea and one we have been hard at work at for over six months.

"Temp Control" works off measuring resistance and correlating that to a temperature based off the Temperature Coefficient of Resistance of that material. Easy to do for many metals like titanium or nickel wire with existing e-cig box mods. Harder to do with a resistive element embedded in ceramic, not possible to TC on e-cigs. BTW, "Joules" mode on many devices like IPV2-D5 whatever they're called are a misnomer. Joules per second are watts- One watt equals one Joule per second. Measuring in Joules doesn't magically introduce temperature control and I still do not understand why device makers are using joules in their TC modes

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...perature_controljoule_mode_on_ipv4_what_does/

Krazy said:

What is the current state of ease of use? Part of my problem before was inconsistencies in concentrates form the local dispensaries. But part of the problem was too much complexity and options in use for my poor lill TBI'd brain to deal with lol.

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@Krazy it sounds like you've had issues with some of the cartridges for the Persei. The original EO cartridges are not the simplest to operate, but todays Kiss Cartridges are quite easy to use at 3.7V in the Persei.

As for the non-concentrate cartridge it was introduced and is called the Bender Herb Chamber. It's out of stock at the moment at w9tech.com but available from several authorized retailers- just hit up Google and type "Bender Herb Chamber" to check it out. It's not the easiest or most pocketable herb vape I've tried, but it is among the tastiest.

If you're looking for a simpler device than a Persei (our Advanced oil vaporizer, intended for those that want a complex device with lots of options) I would agree with @mutten840 that an Omicron may be much more appropriate for your needs.

SamuraiSam said:

That's a fantastic idea and one we have been hard at work at for over six months.

"Temp Control" works off measuring resistance and correlating that to a temperature based off the Temperature Coefficient of Resistance of that material. Easy to do for many metals like titanium or nickel wire with existing e-cig box mods. Harder to do with a resistive element embedded in ceramic, not possible to TC on e-cigs. BTW, "Joules" mode on many devices like IPV2-D5 whatever they're called are a misnomer. Joules per second are watts- One watt equals one Joule per second. Measuring in Joules doesn't magically introduce temperature control and I still do not understand why device makers are using joules in their TC modes

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...perature_controljoule_mode_on_ipv4_what_does/

Click to expand...

Thanks Sam. I have several Vapor Flask mods with Temp Control, and non Temp Control settings. Admittedly, I'm somewhat hazy on how they work, so the information is appreciated.

I just ordered my Hercules 510 from Puffitup, which should be arriving in a few days. So, to use with the mods I have, just use the non-temp control setting, at approximately 20-35 watts?

Thanks for your help!

@showman i run my herc on temp control on my evic vtc mini. ti mode at 270f-300f with 45 watts when the resistance is .86. you can manually adjust the tcr on the vtc mini for better performance, but i haven't gotten around to finding the best number yet (any tips?). it works fantastically. far better than wattage mode, in my experience. i know some pople say it doesn't work, but try it. i think you might be pleasantly suprised.

dilvish said:

@showman i run my herc on temp control on my evic vtc mini. ti mode at 270f-300f with 45 watts when the resistance is .86. you can manually adjust the tcr on the vtc mini for better performance, but i haven't gotten around to finding the best number yet (any tips?). it works fantastically. far better than wattage mode, in my experience. i know some pople say it doesn't work, but try it. i think you might be pleasantly suprised.

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Thanks! I actually run my Nicotine Vaporizers at almost the same wattage and temperature settings you do (typically running 35 watts or "joules" at 270F) so I might give this a try when my Hercules comes in. I use titanium wire and ceramic wicking material (readyXwick) for nicotine, so it seems natural to want to at least experiment with it with the Hercules, if others have had success doing so...

As for temperature, I'm not really sure what temperature is best, especially since I haven't even tried this with concentrates yet. But, from my own experience with nicotine, I keep things at 270 typically sometimes 300, even though people usually recommend higher temperatures. In my own experience (again, only with nicotine) whenever I try pushing it to 350 or so, I sometimes get a burnt wick, whereas at 270, the wick stays perfectly fine. I learned what I know about TC vaping (for nicotine) here, as well as from a few other places: http://blog.craftvapery.com/joshs-definitive-guide-to-temperature-control-with-titanium-wire/

Just noticed today on PuffItUp that the Nibbler XL was back in stock!

Just put in my order for one and a Herc 510 and I cant wait! Got free shipping and %15 off at PuffItUp as well which was really nice.

Anyone have pictures of the Hercules with the Nibbler XL? Would love to see what the combination looks like before ordering the Nibbler.

Also...
How does it work, exactly? Do you screw off the mouthpiece from the Hercules and screw on the Nibbler instead?

showman said:

Anyone have pictures of the Hercules with the Nibbler XL? Would love to see what the combination looks like before ordering the Nibbler.

Also...
How does it work, exactly? Do you screw off the mouthpiece from the Hercules and screw on the Nibbler instead?

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The Nibbler XL comes with a special replacement mouth piece with an o-ring that you screw on the Herc.

elmoe420 said:

The Nibbler XL comes with a special replacement mouth piece with an o-ring that you screw on the Herc.

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Damn! There is a serious pile of $ in that pic @ retail prices!

elmoe420 said:

The Nibbler XL comes with a special replacement mouth piece with an o-ring that you screw on the Herc.

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Wow, cool, thanks so much!
Is that the new 510 adapter Hercules pictured? Just wondering since that's the one I picked up.

Do you happen to know what the material is on the new mouthpiece? I love my Hercules, although the only thing I don't really like that much about it is the PTFE mouthpiece (or whatever it is, please correct me if I'm wrong.)

Plus I just broke my old Persei Bubbler last night, so am going to need some new glass for this kit!
Thanks for your help!

Also, is the heatshield optional?

showman said:

Wow, cool, thanks so much!
Is that the new 510 adapter Hercules pictured? Just wondering since that's the one I picked up.

Do you happen to know what the material is on the new mouthpiece? I love my Hercules, although the only thing I don't really like that much about it is the PTFE mouthpiece (or whatever it is, please correct me if I'm wrong.)

Plus I just broke my old Persei Bubbler last night, so am going to need some new glass for this kit!
Thanks for your help!

Also, is the heatshield optional?

Click to expand...

What is pictured there is a Hercules SR-71 with 510 bottom insulator. If you buy the latest generation 510 Hercules it will be almost identical to what is pictured aesthetically.

The mouthpiece for the Nibbler XL is made of the same PTFR material. I'm not a huge fan either although it doesn't matter much because I always use my Nibbler. I do love the option of standard sized drip tips on the KISS AC v2.

The PTFE heat shield is indeed optional but I don't see any advantage in running without it. Just a chance of getting burned on a hot Herc.

elmoe420 said:

What is pictured there is a Hercules SR-71 with 510 bottom insulator. If you buy the latest generation 510 Hercules it will be almost identical to what is pictured aesthetically.

The mouthpiece for the Nibbler XL is made of the same PTFR material. I'm not a huge fan either although it doesn't matter much because I always use my Nibbler. I do love the option of standard sized drip tips on the KISS AC v2.

The PTFE heat shield is indeed optional but I don't see any advantage in running without it. Just a chance of getting burned on a hot Herc.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply!

Well, as far as an advantage, it seems to me in my limited experience that it is much easier to get the atomizer to connect securely and easily without the heatshield or the bottom PTFE piece attached. Also, I wouldn't touch a hot vaporizer with my bare hands anyway (I have many other vaporizers that get hot and don't need heat shields to remind me not to touch!), but it especially doesn't seem like much of a danger with the glass piece attached, unless I'm misunderstanding?

The ability to use my many standard glass drip tips would be amazing, I didn't know the Alpha Centauri had that! Now I want to try one of those too...

showman said:

it seems to me in my limited experience that it is much easier to get the atomizer to connect securely and easily without the heat shield or the bottom PTFE piece attached.

Click to expand...

This is an indicator that your bottom indicator needs to be properly adjusted. Use a fingernail to hold the bottom while you loosen the inner screw 1/4 turn at a time to extend the pin until it is solidly making contact and as reliably transmitting power as with no insulator installed.

The PTFE heat shield will prevent burns, and it there are serious disadvantages to going without it: the hot stainless steel core will be exposed, it will be very easy for the top cap and mouth piece to fall out/off the Hercules without them installed. It is not possible to install the Nibbler XL without the heatshield and O-ringed "mouthpiece" replacement.

SamuraiSam said:

This is an indicator that your bottom indicator needs to be properly adjusted. Use a fingernail to hold the bottom while you loosen the inner screw 1/4 turn at a time to extend the pin until it is solidly making contact and as reliably transmitting power as with no insulator installed.

The PTFE heat shield will prevent burns, and it there are serious disadvantages to going without it: the hot stainless steel core will be exposed, it will be very easy for the top cap and mouth piece to fall out/off the Hercules without them installed. It is not possible to install the Nibbler XL without the heatshield and O-ringed "mouthpiece" replacement.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I just got my Hercules and I found the connection was really difficult to get stable with the PTFE on. The vaporizer would keep saying Check Atomizer and have the ohms not show up, and then I would twist it a bit and it would work for a little while, and then the connection would be loose again, which was frustrating. Looking at the diagnostics, I tried to remove the two PTFE pieces besides the mouthpiece and the connection appears to remain very stable and it was hitting well, so I left them off. But I'll try adjusting the bottom connector on the bottom PTFE insulator as you suggest and re-installing, and see if I can get the same good results with the safety of the heatshield.
Although, I'll say, it really doesn't appear to be getting that hot, and I wouldn't touch the metal core with my bare hands anyway. Perhaps mine isn't getting overly hot because of the vaporizer I'm using which seems to sometmes stop and tell you "Too hot! Please wait 10 seconds" when it gets too hot according to its own diagnostics. This is NOT on temperature control, incidentally, but on the regular Wattage mode (I've just been running at 35 watts), as I tried the TC and it didn't work, I'm assuming because the TC for the digital vaporizers for nicotine generally only have settings to work with wire of T1 or Ni200, not the thick coils of T2 that the Hercules uses.

In any event, I've been happy with the Hercules despite the connection problem and I'll try the fix you suggest. But the only problem I've seen with going shieldless thus far has been the issue you note with the mouthpiece occasionally coming off the top and needing to be re-set. The top-cap has been pretty stable, and I make sure not to touch the atomizer, and I think the digital vaporizer I'm using has safety features that prevent it from getting extremely hot anyway, unless I'm misunderstanding.

Thanks for the info, especially the fact that XL won't install without the shield (another good reason to try to adjust the bottom insulator and re-install the shield!)

Just have also been wondering a little bit on technique, if anyone can help-- what's the optimal pulse length? And how long to pulse initially before the first hit? No idea at all what I'm doing here, though it's been working fine just pulsing for random increments.

Edit: actually, it's not connecting at all for me with the bottom insulator attached now. I'm going to try adjusting the centerpin again, but no luck yet.