Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless
- Thread starter darkrom
- Start date
grokit
well-worn member
It's a big thread. For the lazy, does the coating contaminate the rosin?
And does one kind of parchment absorb fats and the other doesn't?
edit: holy moly, there's literally 200 mentions of parchment in here
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t's a big thread. For the lazy, does the coating contaminate the rosin?
And does one kind of parchment absorb fats and the other doesn't?
edit: holy moly, there's literally 200 mentions of parchment in here
Here is a small list of parchment that seems to be quilon free. Also lots of other info around page 56
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/rosin-technique-easy-diy-solventless.17470/page-56#post-855384
I have found that the thicker the parchment paper is, the better it looks after the press.
Everyday essentials brand is the thickest (.0026") I have found on the shelf so far. It holds up very well to the pressure compared to others. I do not see any oil being absorbed into the paper like reynolds brand did.
grokit
well-worn member
Thanks
Too bad my 'lifetime supply' of commercial full-size sheet pan liners (thin type) doesn't fit the bill.
Monsoon
Well-Known Member
When I tried making rosin I used parchment from BlackLabelPaper which is specifically made for extract use and cut to size. It's so much nicer using pre-cut pieces instead of dealing with rolls. Still using it for my finished QWET shatter and it's working good for that.It's a big thread. For the lazy, does the coating contaminate the rosin?
And does one kind of parchment absorb fats and the other doesn't?
edit: holy moly, there's literally 200 mentions of parchment in here
stressed
Well-Known Member
well, i got all the equipment and squeezed bud after bud after bud. my yields are unimpressive. i've tried a few different genetics and all kinds of different times and temps and size of buds to be squeezed. i can see it's value if you have a lot of bud and no legal hash to be had.
i did get a few good pulls off of my nectar collector. very nice taste and smooth.
fortunately, i can buy grams of wax or shatter for $50 and a gram of CO2 oil for $100. i'm mostly going to stick with buying my hash stash from the pot store! thanks for all the input folks!
i want to go shopping for some bud and oil, but i'm too high to drive.
i did get a few good pulls off of my nectar collector. very nice taste and smooth.
fortunately, i can buy grams of wax or shatter for $50 and a gram of CO2 oil for $100. i'm mostly going to stick with buying my hash stash from the pot store! thanks for all the input folks!
i want to go shopping for some bud and oil, but i'm too high to drive.
Monsoon
Well-Known Member
This was my experience as well. I could probably have dialed it in with some more time but I didn't have the money to waste on more low yields.
olysh pops
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your help, I ve bought parchment paper which does not absorb oil and contain no silicone, it work great to collect oil
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olysh pops
Well-Known Member
Few tips picked in Rosin Tech thread :
* I totally agree. If anyone doesn't have the space or cash to step up to a vice/press setup with plates, then doing the straightener + clamp method is still a big step up in function compared to plain straighteners. Just rip the heaters out and fix them on the clamp (suggest Irwin 600lb grip clamp). It allowed me to squash 'like' people do with presses (not as much pressure obviously, but it let me squash at 200-240f for 1 minute instead of 320f for 3 seconds, much better result and easier to handle).
Posted by @randomtalker
* Maybe try to start around 230-240f? Hotter takes less crush but gives darker, gooey oil. Not as tasty. Just my 2 dinars (110°C)
[Sorry idk who posted this one]
* I thought people were only pressing for like 10-20 seconds. He did it for like a minute! Was it probably because he was using a low temp? That oil sure did look tasty though!
it was 210°F the whole run and thats about a .5-.75g sample.
and it WAS delicious!
Posted by @farscaper
* Nobody has done tests to determine what an ideal moisture content for pressing might be. I've pressed both too wet and too dry, and would say ideal is somewhere between 62 and 100 percent humidity.
I've also been thinking about how to best prepare fresh material for pressing. I think a good method would be to hang the mature harvest as normal, but instead of letting it dry entirely, periodically test press buds until you are happy with the results. At this humidity level the flowers will be too moist to jar up, so material prepared this way will need to either be pressed immediately or bagged and frozen.
If you press the harvest all at once, you can wrap dalles in parchment then vacuum joint and freeze for long term storage.
Posted by @sharksandwich
* I've never used a screen with flower, just toss the bud in the crease of parchment and go I've wondered if it would keep the oil a little cleaner as far as plant wax and other junk, but never tried yet..
[Sorry idk who posted this one]
* You'd think with the water content from 3-4 days air dry bud would start to Budder it up but it didn't happen. Just kept it in between folded parchment on my desk away from direct light, window less than 3 feet from it. And yes, I did see the little thing sticking out of the left size, but I removed it and then got a dab and was too lazy to take another picture of it without it lol. Trichs were like 50-70% amber depending on which buds you looked at.
[Sorry idk who posted this one]
* Here is that premature bud I accidentally broke off a few days ago, I just squished it and it was a puits jaillissant. About 4 days cure and it was still on the stem before the squish.
Posted by @Joel W
* Honestly I say this enough it's become my catch-phrase: Hit up the local thrift shop and grab a hair iron for $5 or so (try for one with actual temps displayed) and just smash a few buds, see if you like it. I was getting 10-15% back after my first try or two with just that, pressing the iron with bodyweight. Then later you can grab a cheap c-clamp or vise and just shove the iron in, or get all DIY and make something cool. There's lots of ways to get more and better, but the entry level is still really good IMO.
Posted by @BoogerMan
* Your vise does look a bit light-duty for this application. I looked up the model and couldn't find any clamping force ratings for it. If you upgrade, look for something capable of at least 3 tons (6000 lbs) of force.
Also, bud should be more moist than you'd want it to be for storage or vaporizing. The material should be soft and flexible, not crisp or crumbly at all.
You can use a cotton ball or anything else to re-moisturize, just make sure it doesn't touch the flowers. A moistened sponge can be attached to the underside of the lid of a jar, like in a humidor.
Posted by @sharksandwich
* as much pressure as a good vise puts out ive not needed to even pre compress buds anymore.
ironically I have found that bricking helps with exceptionally fluffy buds. by cold and slow compression more material stays in tact and slow compression and staying in this compressed form distributes the moisture more evenly through the bud, which ironically works very beneficially in rosin extraction from flowers...
when was the last time someone said bricking your weed made it better?
but im serious
although not everyone wants to hold onto stuff for a while before pressing it but... it seems to help with duveteux buds.
for dense flowers I would simply suggest to press smaller amounts at a time. this ensures when the goods are gone the chip will be dry and crispy with no tacky to it at all.
grinding is only going to break it up more.... I wouldn't say it wont help... but it seems to add an unnecessary step that eill likely end in lower yield... but I could be wrong... ive misplaced my hammer press or I would just fucking try it and tell you whst happened. if I finagle one together ill try it out.
[Sorry idk who posted this one]
* Earlier this summer I pressed out some rosin to take to a local event, which happened to coincide with a heat and humidity wave. I was using materials and methods that were familiar to me, and I've never had rosin butter out on me before.
I pressed at 160-170F - and the rosin came out beautiful and clear, but started to butter within an hour. I didn't want to take anything that was buttered, so I kept that round for home use and increased temps to almost 200F for the next press. This yielded rosin that did not butter for the few days it was around, under those same conditions that turned the low-temp rosin completely opaque in less than a day.
This is plant and harvest dependent- some strains contain hydrophilic terpenes (which may be present in larger amounts with a later harvest), and those terpenes are more volatile than most. When pressing a particular strain at a low enough temperature, these terpenes can be preserved and present in the rosin in a high enough concentration to pull atmospheric humidity into the rosin, which turns it into an emulsion (like real butter) and makes it cloudy, or buttered out.
There's another mechanism by which rosin can become cloudy or opaque, and that's called whiting out. Whiting out occurs when the ratio of thc to terpenes is so high that the thc can no longer be fully dissolved by the terpenes present, and the thc begins to form a crystal structure, kind of like making rock candy. This is also strain and plant (early harvest- less terpenes) dependent, and temperature dependent. However in this case it's a higher temperature or longer press that could boil off terpenes
and contribute to whiting out.
Posted by @sharksandwich
* I found the plates get too hot and melt the clamp feet mounted bare, but I used some cheap-ass dollar store super glue to stick some old plates to the backs of the active ones, creating a nice heat sink buffer.
I have the pictured clamp stood up on end (with the holes in the flatbar used to secure it in a similar wooden clamp to @Been Vapin's), and a piece of pipe jammed on the pistol grip to use as a pump handle. It does actually produce better than anything else I've built to date, but every time I use it I get new idea for improvement lol.
My current iron is a BaByliss (wtf?) Pro I got at the thrift store for $4. Pretty nice 2" plates, temp dial goes down to 239f, but after taking the body of the iron apart the dial stops at 254f now? Not sure what temp I'm really working at atm, but I use 2 layers of parchment and have taken to using @shark sandwich's tip (thx btw!) about turning the unit off to drop temp a bit. Until I pick up a heat gun I'm just learning by feel atm but even at the 254f it's not roasting the oil too much
Posted by @GuyLeDuche
* Oh and for the parchment blowout I found it helps to do a double fold so the nug isn't sitting directly on the crease. like fold the parchment in half and then fold the crease over about 1/4". if that doesn't make sense let me know and I can take a pic
Posted by @Bouldorado
* yes, this does work. I have applied distilled water to pucks that have been squished but produced little oil and it did increase the overall production. I reapplied more on a third and got still more rosin out at an alarming quantity... I do recommend this method to anyone trying to squeeze more out without using a solvent.
[...] (too many caracters in my post, sorry I had to cut)
Posted by @farscaper
* I totally agree. If anyone doesn't have the space or cash to step up to a vice/press setup with plates, then doing the straightener + clamp method is still a big step up in function compared to plain straighteners. Just rip the heaters out and fix them on the clamp (suggest Irwin 600lb grip clamp). It allowed me to squash 'like' people do with presses (not as much pressure obviously, but it let me squash at 200-240f for 1 minute instead of 320f for 3 seconds, much better result and easier to handle).
Posted by @randomtalker
* Maybe try to start around 230-240f? Hotter takes less crush but gives darker, gooey oil. Not as tasty. Just my 2 dinars (110°C)
[Sorry idk who posted this one]
* I thought people were only pressing for like 10-20 seconds. He did it for like a minute! Was it probably because he was using a low temp? That oil sure did look tasty though!
it was 210°F the whole run and thats about a .5-.75g sample.
and it WAS delicious!
Posted by @farscaper
* Nobody has done tests to determine what an ideal moisture content for pressing might be. I've pressed both too wet and too dry, and would say ideal is somewhere between 62 and 100 percent humidity.
I've also been thinking about how to best prepare fresh material for pressing. I think a good method would be to hang the mature harvest as normal, but instead of letting it dry entirely, periodically test press buds until you are happy with the results. At this humidity level the flowers will be too moist to jar up, so material prepared this way will need to either be pressed immediately or bagged and frozen.
If you press the harvest all at once, you can wrap dalles in parchment then vacuum joint and freeze for long term storage.
Posted by @sharksandwich
* I've never used a screen with flower, just toss the bud in the crease of parchment and go
I've wondered if it would keep the oil a little cleaner as far as plant wax and other junk, but never tried yet..[Sorry idk who posted this one]
* You'd think with the water content from 3-4 days air dry bud would start to Budder it up but it didn't happen. Just kept it in between folded parchment on my desk away from direct light, window less than 3 feet from it. And yes, I did see the little thing sticking out of the left size, but I removed it and then got a dab and was too lazy to take another picture of it without it lol. Trichs were like 50-70% amber depending on which buds you looked at.
[Sorry idk who posted this one]
* Here is that premature bud I accidentally broke off a few days ago, I just squished it and it was a puits jaillissant. About 4 days cure and it was still on the stem before the squish.
Posted by @Joel W
* Honestly I say this enough it's become my catch-phrase: Hit up the local thrift shop and grab a hair iron for $5 or so (try for one with actual temps displayed) and just smash a few buds, see if you like it. I was getting 10-15% back after my first try or two with just that, pressing the iron with bodyweight. Then later you can grab a cheap c-clamp or vise and just shove the iron in, or get all DIY and make something cool. There's lots of ways to get more and better, but the entry level is still really good IMO.
Posted by @BoogerMan
* Your vise does look a bit light-duty for this application. I looked up the model and couldn't find any clamping force ratings for it. If you upgrade, look for something capable of at least 3 tons (6000 lbs) of force.
Also, bud should be more moist than you'd want it to be for storage or vaporizing. The material should be soft and flexible, not crisp or crumbly at all.
You can use a cotton ball or anything else to re-moisturize, just make sure it doesn't touch the flowers. A moistened sponge can be attached to the underside of the lid of a jar, like in a humidor.
Posted by @sharksandwich
* as much pressure as a good vise puts out ive not needed to even pre compress buds anymore.
ironically I have found that bricking helps with exceptionally fluffy buds. by cold and slow compression more material stays in tact and slow compression and staying in this compressed form distributes the moisture more evenly through the bud, which ironically works very beneficially in rosin extraction from flowers...
when was the last time someone said bricking your weed made it better?
but im serious
although not everyone wants to hold onto stuff for a while before pressing it but... it seems to help with duveteux buds.
for dense flowers I would simply suggest to press smaller amounts at a time. this ensures when the goods are gone the chip will be dry and crispy with no tacky to it at all.
grinding is only going to break it up more.... I wouldn't say it wont help... but it seems to add an unnecessary step that eill likely end in lower yield... but I could be wrong... ive misplaced my hammer press or I would just fucking try it and tell you whst happened. if I finagle one together ill try it out.
[Sorry idk who posted this one]
* Earlier this summer I pressed out some rosin to take to a local event, which happened to coincide with a heat and humidity wave. I was using materials and methods that were familiar to me, and I've never had rosin butter out on me before.
I pressed at 160-170F - and the rosin came out beautiful and clear, but started to butter within an hour. I didn't want to take anything that was buttered, so I kept that round for home use and increased temps to almost 200F for the next press. This yielded rosin that did not butter for the few days it was around, under those same conditions that turned the low-temp rosin completely opaque in less than a day.
This is plant and harvest dependent- some strains contain hydrophilic terpenes (which may be present in larger amounts with a later harvest), and those terpenes are more volatile than most. When pressing a particular strain at a low enough temperature, these terpenes can be preserved and present in the rosin in a high enough concentration to pull atmospheric humidity into the rosin, which turns it into an emulsion (like real butter) and makes it cloudy, or buttered out.
There's another mechanism by which rosin can become cloudy or opaque, and that's called whiting out. Whiting out occurs when the ratio of thc to terpenes is so high that the thc can no longer be fully dissolved by the terpenes present, and the thc begins to form a crystal structure, kind of like making rock candy. This is also strain and plant (early harvest- less terpenes) dependent, and temperature dependent. However in this case it's a higher temperature or longer press that could boil off terpenes
and contribute to whiting out.
Posted by @sharksandwich
* I found the plates get too hot and melt the clamp feet mounted bare, but I used some cheap-ass dollar store super glue to stick some old plates to the backs of the active ones, creating a nice heat sink buffer.
I have the pictured clamp stood up on end (with the holes in the flatbar used to secure it in a similar wooden clamp to @Been Vapin's), and a piece of pipe jammed on the pistol grip to use as a pump handle. It does actually produce better than anything else I've built to date, but every time I use it I get new idea for improvement lol.
My current iron is a BaByliss (wtf?) Pro I got at the thrift store for $4. Pretty nice 2" plates, temp dial goes down to 239f, but after taking the body of the iron apart the dial stops at 254f now? Not sure what temp I'm really working at atm, but I use 2 layers of parchment and have taken to using @shark sandwich's tip (thx btw!) about turning the unit off to drop temp a bit. Until I pick up a heat gun I'm just learning by feel atm but even at the 254f it's not roasting the oil too much
Posted by @GuyLeDuche
* Oh and for the parchment blowout I found it helps to do a double fold so the nug isn't sitting directly on the crease. like fold the parchment in half and then fold the crease over about 1/4". if that doesn't make sense let me know and I can take a pic
Posted by @Bouldorado
* yes, this does work. I have applied distilled water to pucks that have been squished but produced little oil and it did increase the overall production. I reapplied more on a third and got still more rosin out at an alarming quantity... I do recommend this method to anyone trying to squeeze more out without using a solvent.
[...] (too many caracters in my post, sorry I had to cut)
Posted by @farscaper
That's a great collection of information, @olysh
Some of the content I provided is no longer the best information available, so I'd like to address that.
I find that flowers require at least a month cure at 62% RH to press cleanly. Sooner than that, and the rosin seems to get contaminated with chlorophyll. Boveda 62 bags are the way to go for curing.
If you're working with kief or shake, t-sac brand tea bags work great to contain your material, and return rosin that's free of particulates.
If you're pressing flowers with a setup larger than a set of straighteners, it's nice to have a press form that allows you to easily make dense pucks, ideally just a little smaller than your heat plates. This helps improve returns by allowing more material to be pressed at once, more uniformly. It also minimizes the amount of unfilled space between the plates, so rosin can't dwell there and cook off during the press.
Some of the content I provided is no longer the best information available, so I'd like to address that.
I find that flowers require at least a month cure at 62% RH to press cleanly. Sooner than that, and the rosin seems to get contaminated with chlorophyll. Boveda 62 bags are the way to go for curing.
If you're working with kief or shake, t-sac brand tea bags work great to contain your material, and return rosin that's free of particulates.
If you're pressing flowers with a setup larger than a set of straighteners, it's nice to have a press form that allows you to easily make dense pucks, ideally just a little smaller than your heat plates. This helps improve returns by allowing more material to be pressed at once, more uniformly. It also minimizes the amount of unfilled space between the plates, so rosin can't dwell there and cook off during the press.
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tepictoton
Well-Known Member
Do not freeze your (flower) materiel for rosin! Tried it, comes out greenish and smells, well, humid... This was properly dried before freezing.
dabsonthemountain
Well-Known Member
That was from the moisture, adding moisture seems to be a bad idea in general. I had some dry bud i re moistened with napkins and it came out green looking and tasting too.I let this bud really soak up the moisture though just to test. Using a small amount of water on a napkin helps with really dry buds, but only a little. To much and you get that chlorophyl taste. If it crumbles, moisten it to the point it starts to stick to itself and no more, you can tell its moist enough when you roll buds into tight balls instead of a pre press. It should press itself to a tight ball and stay that way, not crumble, and not poof back up because its to moist.
CrazyDiamond
Crosseyed & Painless
I've actually dipped dry flower in distilled water, let it sit a few minutes, then press...no chlorophyll taste at all, but what @dabsonthemountain is pretty spot on...you need some moisture, but not too much...I would think the 62% boveda's would give you the right moisture content. Normally what I do is what @farscaper taught me and that is to use an unbleached coffee filter, get it damp (not soaked), and put in a container with your dry flowers but not letting the flowers touch the filter...a let that sit 24 hours and it's perfect for pressing from what I've experienced.
roboticnightmares
Well-Known Member
Are you still using your diy setup with the green drill press you had posted a few pages back. I imagine the drill helps a good bit? About how many psi can you get with the green vise? Thanks
I think the bolton vise is capable of up to 10,000 psi (5 ton) is my best guess without a pressure gauge to verify. Glad you are liking it. I really like the cordless drill and socket idea, but have not tried it yet.
I looked back and had somehow missed this, quoting for ingenuity and all around awesomeness...
I got my squish rig going just in time for the weekend. Much testing to follow.
I have some herb that I believe to contain a fair amount of pesticides (or other chemicals). I wondered would turning this bud into rosin remove the nasty content? I suppose I would need to know the exact chemicals to see at what temp they would boil off.
Anyone got any ideas on this? It's nice bud that I don't want to waste, but I can't toke or vape it in it's current form
Anyone got any ideas on this? It's nice bud that I don't want to waste, but I can't toke or vape it in it's current form
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
I don't see why it would remove it... if it's in the plant matter.
Been Vapin
Fringe Class
If anything it would concentrate the bad stuff.
This article is not about rosin, but is relevant and a good read.
http://www.oregonlive.com/marijuana-legalization/pesticides/
dabsonthemountain
Well-Known Member
Throw it away and consider it a loss.
Any form of concentrate will just, like @Been Vapin mentioned, concentrate the bad stuff.
roboticnightmares
Well-Known Member
I really don't know much about these vices. But it seems unlikely that you can get 5 ton from that setup. I see a 4 inch vice on sale at Home Depot fro 36$ With a 3500 lb clamping strength. So I imagine for folks on a budget this vice along with 1"x2" aluminum plates ( 20$ delivered) would be a great alternative to messing with hair straighteners. . Screw a couple ptc heaters($5 on eBay) to the side of plates. No need for controllers, simple unplug when desired temp is achieved (candy thermometer helps).
I'm very happy with my dake setup, just thinking of cheap n easy solutions for friends and family. Finally freedom from shady overpriced 'tane soup. I know, I know , plenty of decent bho out there. But for some of us older folks in less than friendly states it really isn't so easy.
Many thanks and good vibes to everyone in this thread for sharing.