tharealmclovin
Well-Known Member
Ordered 2 from fast tech yesterday and now I see this so I order an authentic 2.7. Guess I need to get that TC mod ASAP.
Divine Tribe atty's
- Thread starter divinetribe
- Start date
pigfoot
Dabs are vapor too!
tharealmclovin
Well-Known Member
Good timing. I was about to buy one and now I got 10% off.
OF
Well-Known Member
Best price I found was from:
http://www.gearbest.com/temperature-control-mods/pp_239873.html
$33 for the next couple of days. no code needed. Mine (a backup for the first I bought) got here quickly (about a week IIRC) from the Netherlands of all places? It seems legit in every respect and is working just fine thank you very much. Just like the one I bought from MyVaporStore for $50 shipped the month before.
I paid the extra $2 for tracking but I don't think I would next time.......
OF
skyler544
Clockwork Murderer
I ended up buying my VTC mini from VapeNW because I was a little worried about ordering an electronic device from a Chinese warehouse which is what it says on the Gearbest page. Back before I found out about Divine Tribe I ordered a pair of Vision Spinner 2 batteries from Amazon because I was ignorant in those days, and they ended up being counterfeit. That event was one of many reasons why I have since spent countless evenings checking out the world of pen vaporizers and found these atomizers. long story short, I'd rather pay $40 for the thing through a site that uses paypal and be certain that it's actually going to arrive and be the real deal. My 2 cents at least.
TheMadDabber
I ° The Magician
I second that, I would rather pay original price or alittle extra if I know the product in question is original and top quality. I also bought a vtc mini yesterday from vapenw. Im new to these ecig/mod things, with so many units with different specs on the market, I wasnt sure if there was one that fit all my needs, I also wasnt sure if the unit came with a battery, a quick phonecall to one of their reps and they suggested a highdrain battery which is also on their website. Im glad I got it as well.
Someone here introduced me to Divine Tribe and eversince then I have been following this thread. There are alot of wax/liquid pen setups out there, but they are either high priced or not as versatyle as obtaining a mod box and adding your own atomizers and also being able to vape prefilled cartridges, which is the reason I bought the vtc mini.
Someone here introduced me to Divine Tribe and eversince then I have been following this thread. There are alot of wax/liquid pen setups out there, but they are either high priced or not as versatyle as obtaining a mod box and adding your own atomizers and also being able to vape prefilled cartridges, which is the reason I bought the vtc mini.
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OF
Well-Known Member
Beats me, China I assume, although as I said the last couple shipments from them have come from the Netherlands. It's rapidly getting to the point where the world is one of two part, us here and them?
Since they all come from China one way or another........
No, it's not if you consider the imminent arrival of the long sought 3.0 which will be rebuidable and have no glue. For now the current base is what exists.
Please understand the 2.5 and 2.7 are the same base. No changes. Only the top.
No, I don't think either gets the 'less restriction' honors since the restriction is set by the bases which have four tiny ports. Caps make no difference. FWIW I think the deep bases tend to have the best flow. The ports are a tiny bit bigger and the tombstone shaped ones in the shallow top seem to jam easier with condensate.
You should try both bases and see for yourself, IMO more important differences than the tops (which you should also try both of to see which suits you best).
Agreed both times. I think I tend to like the original (2.5) version since it's easier to keep scraped down. The splatter, especially bad with the shallow bowl, can waste a lot of some types of concentrates, the 2.7 defies easy reclaim.
Agreed, although the Invader Mini might edge it in price, depending. Both have the key feature of being able to limit both wattage and temperature in the same mode (not common in e-cigs it seems).
Also IMO well worth considering is the Cuboid. Basically a two battery VTC Mini. A tiny bit taller (less than 1/4 inch) and about the same (or a bit less) in width and the same depth (as seen from the button end). Heavier, of course, there's twice the battery in there. Uses the exact same software as the VTC Mini (in fact the upgrade of the Cuboid will also upgrade the Mini). 150 Watts 'out of the box', 200 after the upgrade. Driving our little 12 Watt loads is a 'no sweat' deal for sure. They can be had for a few bucks more than the VTC. IIRC I paid about $40 for mine.
No, they are the same size from heater to vents (leaking....). One is just deeper than the other. And has different ports. The deep one has four round holes in pairs close to each other (say 12, 1, 6 and 7 o'clock) the shallow one two (smaller?) round holes at noon and six with two tombstone shaped (inverted to be exact). But each holds the same (modest) load, overload and it leaks out......
Because there's no wick loading very light doesn't work well. You need enough to fill the gap under the doughnut to work normally, less either overheats (in VW mode) or drops production (or both).
The shallow ones are easier to load (obviously......) but I think foul ports a bit more easily (size and shape?) and to me most important can splatter the good much easier. The same concentrate that makes a mess in a shallow base quickly doesn't do that with a deep one since much/most of the splatter flows down for 'self recycling' on it's own. The deep ones are my favorite, generally, for waxes firm enough to load, shatters, crumbles and so on. With oils, it's kind of a toss up IMO. If I could only have one, it'd be a deep one for sure.
Don't know that vape, you're on your own. I make the real value about 1/4% per degree C, I'm using .245%, technically 2450 PPM. That number is, however, not what you put in. The VTC Mini/Cuboid software 'cheats' by a factor of ten, so I enter '245'. Repeating, you're on your own (for that reason).
The TCR value needed for an individual vape depends on the software of the vape, in my case it's 1/10 the normal 'textbook' value.
I suggest you 'fish it out'. Play with VW until you 'know' what it does at say 12 Watts (where I did it). Then leave that power limit on, enable temperature limit and start lowering it until it 'takes over' and cuts power back?????
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
As just said by another Member, you're overfilling it. To prevent leaks, don't do that. Look into the base, if the concentrate gets up to the vent holes (just above the top of the doughnut) it's going to leak back, even if you can keep it perfectly flat.
Once it's past those holes, there's only one way out (leaking out the base) and basically no way back.
That is, if it starts to leak there's no doubt yet more inside, it's going to keep leaking for some time even if you get religion and get really careful at watching fill levels. To stop it from leaking (once started) you need to replace that base or thoroughly clean it.
IMO it's actually a very good vape, perhaps 'best of class', but it has rules you need to follow. Watching power and fill levels chief amongst them.
Give it another try?
Regards,
OF
Detonator
Well-Known Member
So I have a Temp Control mod... It is best to use Temp Comtrol and not Voltage correct? What temp are people using?
What resistance are the attomizers / Donut ceramic disk? Are they nickle wire inside? Nickle wire is usually used for e-cig coils that are to be used with TC Mods.
I read to start low and work up in temp ,,,, but I don't want to just melt hits I want to vaporize them... So what is a good temp to start at?
What resistance are the attomizers / Donut ceramic disk? Are they nickle wire inside? Nickle wire is usually used for e-cig coils that are to be used with TC Mods.
I read to start low and work up in temp ,,,, but I don't want to just melt hits I want to vaporize them... So what is a good temp to start at?
Goodfella
Member
Goodfella
Member
I've been at about 230 and set at 10w
OF
Well-Known Member
You have two options, Power (Watts, not voltage) or temperature control. The maker says 'stay under 12 Watts when new' on his web site, did you see that? Good advice, IMO. I suggest you limit it to that specified value if nothing else.
Temperature control depends critically on the mod used, do not copy other guys results there unless you know what you're doing.
The base is specified at .7 Ohms (again on the DC site), and seem to run in the .7 to .8 range, I'd say the ones I've used averaged about .75 when new and seem to 'grow' a bit over time (maybe .1 Ohms??) While they use an unknown alloy internally, I know of no e-cig coils that use Nickle for several reasons. Many use Nickle alloys (two popular versions being 80% (AKA 'Nichrome A') and 60% (Nichrome C), many mods have setting for both. Also very popular is Kanthal (the typical version being A1) which is an alloy of Iron, Chrome, and Aluminum. This is probably the most common wire used?? Also common are a couple alloys of Stainless Steel and, of course, Titanium. Again, some mods (like the VTC Mini and Cuboid) have settings for these as well.
I'm not sure what to make of the last statement. We all want to vaporize, right?
So, unless you know what settings are being used for the temperature measurement by the mod you can't really control temperatures. I suggest you set for 12 Watts and explore. And read some, this thread is full of answers to the very sorts of questions you're asking.
Good luck with it, it can be worked out, lots of guys around here have done so.
Cool. And understood. Then again, you know what they say about assumptions? The mother of screw ups is the polite version........
These guys aren't like say Thermovape EO cores in that they are completely sealed WRT the concentrate. No way to absorb into wicks or reservoirs. "Load light and often" is the key I think.
It is indeed an astoundingly good performer under the right conditions, it didn't capture such attention by being bad gear. Part of that is the ability to keep it clean no doubt.
Glad you're getting on track with it. Fine tuning your technique can bring big rewards. The leaker can probably be 'fixed', I managed to clean mine up to an acceptable level. Do a cleaning by the instructions on the DC site (mechanically remove as much as you can then bump the power up and burn the residue off the doughnut), than wash the base out inside with PBW. I used a syringe to force the fluid through the base as described a couple months back:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/divine-tribe-attys.14455/page-38#post-916733
Regards to all.
OF
Detonator
Well-Known Member
Origanally Temp Controll in the e-cig world was used with dripping attys using Nickel / Ni200 28 -32 g The temp contoll was used in drippers so the cotton never dried out.. I think the TC Mod would drop wattage as they sensed the Ni200 res. changing, I don't believe they acually sensed heat... The heat was just mathematically figured as res changed...
So that is what I know about TC Mods... Nothing about using this atty makes any TC sense to me..
I will keep it under 12 watts and maybe try Temp Controll.... But as far as I know TC is only for Ni200 use
Haywood
Onward Thru the Fog
@Detonator: Check out the discussion between OF and I starting about page 39 of this thread. In particular, check out this message and replies.
Detonator
Well-Known Member
OK, I read thru that a couple days ago... And it had me scratcing my head...
Another thing I know about TC in e-cig world is that you build a Ni200 coil then put it in the TC mod... The TC Mod measures the res of the coil then that res. is locked in the TC Mod... After that you adjust temp to adjust your hit the way you like it... Wattage usually varries..., and will lower as dripping attys dry out...
TC used in tanks the cotton dosen't dry out...
So are you locking in the res. of the coil? when using this atty in TC mode?
Edit - OK so I just remember that some TC mods were also starting to use Titanium and SS wire for TC..... That is new to me... but not sure if it would apply here.... probly not.... meh?
2nd Edit... OK the video DT made about his new dry hearb attomizer ( which I just found on FB ) he says "it has Nickle leads so it can be used in temp controll"
So I'm guessing these also could have nickle leads.....
In this Vid I think he is using Ni200 TC setting , seems like the res is locked in at .78 and the temp is at 380.... Fuck I hope I get it tommorow ... So I can figure it out myself
Sorry I stopped using nickel builds on ecig drippers over a year ago ( Tanks on clapton builds now!) so I kinda forgot what I used to know...
OK 3rd and possible final Edit - I don't give a fuck But this Vid will show you what a Nickel wire build is ... And more important it will show you that Nickel build are usually .12 ohm - .16 ohm.. so the res he shows in previous vid with res at .78 tell me it is just a Kanthal ohm reading and Not Nickel - Rip Tripper ( fast forward to 8min mark to hear him talkimng about how the TC Mods work, How the res is check on only cold nickel build...Meh and so on...) -
4th Edit -0 I went back and found a dripper that had an Ni200 build at .12ohm I'm hitting it at 460-540 deg ( kinda hot).... Temp controll is nice in e-cig.... but there are specific rules that go along with using TC , so if someone is going to mention using TC then the usage should be specific...
I hope there are not just saying Temp Control cause it's the newest thing.... you need to know how to use TC
Also- I dont know the specifics but I don't think Nickel Wire should Not be used in normal wattage mode... From what I understand it is not good to hit nickel in normal wattage mode So again, I think probably not nickel.... The res at .78 is way off, as I see it
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fernand
Well-Known Member
@Detonator I too come from the e-cig side with Nickel and then Titanium coils. Personally, I think the material is more in the Nickel family than Titanium. Yes, as the discussion went, the better TC devices now work in a dual limit mode: wattage and temp. And that's great, even though the temp is not temp at all, but changing resistance, and resistance has to be derived from the current, because if you go to design such a mod with a microcontroller, you've only got some A/D capability to work with, to monitor how the current is changing, and that also serves the wattage calculation. I can't imagine much of a budget there for additional circuitry. So even with the ability to enter temp coefficients like on the Evic, we don't easily get to where the "target temperature" is calibrated enough for the display to match an actual temperature on the donut. And with heat being lost to vaporization, and the uneven shape, temperature will vary across any coil or donut.
But none of this matters. By setting the wattage ceiling e.g. 11-12 watts, we're pretty safe, we won't blow the donut. If we want we can measure actual temp with a thermocouple, but so what? We can just observe when/how the power backs off, play with the "temperature" target and any curve customization to optimize how power is "greased on" and backed off with a load, you wouldn't want to just continuously pump 12 watts into it, or have to manually pulse it, the way a VW mod is used. In the end it'll all come down to what gives the flavor and fractions you like with the way you load it. Anyway, that's my take on it
Make sense?
BTW, I'm still waiting on one of the e-bay vendors who offer donut atties in black. He has been so slow on shipping, missing estimated delivery dates, and with not-updating tracking numbers, that I'm putting out "the word" here among friends. He isn’t responding to messages, and goes by Darthdabs and now Robertsprun out of Buffalo Grove IL. There are lots of other US vendors with these on e-bay now, not to speak of old reliable Divine Tribe Matt.
But none of this matters. By setting the wattage ceiling e.g. 11-12 watts, we're pretty safe, we won't blow the donut. If we want we can measure actual temp with a thermocouple, but so what? We can just observe when/how the power backs off, play with the "temperature" target and any curve customization to optimize how power is "greased on" and backed off with a load, you wouldn't want to just continuously pump 12 watts into it, or have to manually pulse it, the way a VW mod is used. In the end it'll all come down to what gives the flavor and fractions you like with the way you load it. Anyway, that's my take on it
Make sense?BTW, I'm still waiting on one of the e-bay vendors who offer donut atties in black. He has been so slow on shipping, missing estimated delivery dates, and with not-updating tracking numbers, that I'm putting out "the word" here among friends. He isn’t responding to messages, and goes by Darthdabs and now Robertsprun out of Buffalo Grove IL. There are lots of other US vendors with these on e-bay now, not to speak of old reliable Divine Tribe Matt.
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OF
Well-Known Member
I've been thinking some on this loading thing, seldom a good thing to start doing....... So, for discussion if nothing else, here's a few random thoughts I'm having:
- Normally only the concentrate between the lower side of the doughnut and the floor 'works' (that is makes vapor), and only about 2/3 of that (too cool where the leads are)
- That means that when that volume is exhausted and we have a ring of concentrate left around the cooler rim one of two things has to happen: Either the temperature goes up (we're in VW mode) fouling up the taste or power goes down (in TC mode) so production drops. Or both. Fill level is very important.
- Fills 'on the full side' splatter much more than those 'running lean'. However, splatter loss can be offset with the deep bowl.
- The meniscus (dished surface) of the oil 'in the doughnut hole' can be used to gauge the load. Ideally we want it 'full to the rim' with only a modest 'dip in the middle'. Avoid 'flat topped, fully full'. Avoid loads where you can see the floor in the center.
- If you have a mod like the Invader, EVC or Cuboid that allows for both power and temperature regulation at the same time you can get a useful 'read' of the load level by watching the power or temperature reading (as it goes into TC). A full bowl reaches 'protection' with my current configuration in six or seven cycles when properly loaded. I watch the temperature 'ramp up'. It goes much slower after showing 300F or so (on it's way to 390 and limit) if it's using the extra energy (therefore taking more time) melting concentrate and making vapor. Protection in 2 or 3 cycles when dry, half a dozen or more loaded well?
- If the concentrate 'pools' over the vents, leaks happen. It's OK for condensate to run past them, or for the load to 'foam up' when first loaded, the ports get 'sucked open' in use usually in such cases. But if it wicks through the tunnel to the inside of the base gravity will pull it down where it cannot find it's way back and will eventually leak out the bottom. To aid this, 'sucking it open' again as it cools (pulling the hot concentrate into the bowl and away from the port) is worth trying.
- I load about .050 grams at a time. A BB or paper match head size charge. After some fiddling I've sorted out easy loading of oils: I use a SS needle to pick up a dab then heat the needle above the dab for a second or two with my lighter while holding it over the mouth of the base. Several seconds later the dab slides off the warming metal, hopefully to land in the center of the doughnut as a big drop. A bit more heat so the oil runs to the tip then I dip the tip in the drop in the base and wipe it with a paper towel.....basically none left on the needle and the load waiting in the center of the doughnut. Waxes, crumbles and the like that can be rolled into a ball and dropped in get that treatment of course.
I agree, this guy has serious potential. With some care in power, temperature, load level, draw speed and so on you can extract the maximum potential from your goods. I've run some really nasty BHO from the past (fouled Omicron carts past recovery with a gram or less) with good results. Fouling is easy to deal with. IMO many lesser grades outperform shatters and more expensive offerings in many respects.
A truly useful tool, but like many others depends on the craftsman using it. Or craftswoman. Or should that be 'craftsperson'?
Regards,
OF
Detonator
Well-Known Member
Edit 5 - I'm lost right now when it comes to TC.... what I used to know is Old News... Now they have 59$ 200w TC Mods that do TC for Ni, Ti, SS, and Nichrome... So I'm going to do some research today...
I think I put way too much thought into this last night
Meanwhile if I get my DT today I'll just set it at 10-11watts to start with and not go up past 12w Pix from the golf course to follow.....
I think I put way too much thought into this last night
Meanwhile if I get my DT today I'll just set it at 10-11watts to start with and not go up past 12w Pix from the golf course to follow.....
Zangano Cruel
IG zan.cru (code) zancru (5% NV checkout discount)
Hola FC:
Cheapest place IMO to get this mod. I bought mine here too. They are in China, their shipping is slowwwwwww.
If you're in a hurry, it took mine eVic 1 month and 3 days. Shipped on February 3rd and arrived March 7th. Very good pricing but of course shipping is the slowest to cut prices probably. Very good mod by the way. Many people have talked about it when they see it. Discreet, powerful enough to run shatters, waxes and oils as well as VG/PG mix with shatter in a sealed cart.
Stay vaped my friends...
Steven
Well-Known Member
If you are getting low vapor production and require multiple hits to finish a small load, then this may be a possible culprit
So I can say I've mastered maitainence of the dt donut atty. By that, I mean I get great vapor production and absolutely no leaks from air holes ever. I also never have to do cool down draws to clear air holes. I use my donuts with a large portable bubbler for vaporizers. Because of this, the resistance the orings have when removing the cap with a bubbler is very noticeable.
What I'm getting at is that, over time as reclaim collects on the inner cap, the orings will also get coated with reclaim. So much that it will be much easier to remove the cap because the orings are basically lubricated
When the orings got to this point, I noticed I wasn't getting a tight seal and airflow didn't directly go over the donut. This resulted in me having to take 2 hits instead of 1 to clear a bb sized load. And vapor production took a dive.
Remember to soak your orings in alcohol for a few minutes from time to time and the seal will be tight as new
So I can say I've mastered maitainence of the dt donut atty. By that, I mean I get great vapor production and absolutely no leaks from air holes ever. I also never have to do cool down draws to clear air holes. I use my donuts with a large portable bubbler for vaporizers. Because of this, the resistance the orings have when removing the cap with a bubbler is very noticeable.
What I'm getting at is that, over time as reclaim collects on the inner cap, the orings will also get coated with reclaim. So much that it will be much easier to remove the cap because the orings are basically lubricated
When the orings got to this point, I noticed I wasn't getting a tight seal and airflow didn't directly go over the donut. This resulted in me having to take 2 hits instead of 1 to clear a bb sized load. And vapor production took a dive.
Remember to soak your orings in alcohol for a few minutes from time to time and the seal will be tight as new
arrr
Well-Known Member
I use mine at 15w. Don't even bother with temp control on DT.
OF
Well-Known Member
Good plan, I think. Start low and 'feel your way forward'. I think, for the most part, that's how most of us did? Start with the 'smart money advice' and experiment cautiously. Follow results you like.
Good luck with it, enjoy the journey.
You're welcome to use your gear as you want of course, but IMO that advice is contrary to most folk's experience and (perhaps most importantly) it's against the advice/instructions from the Maker, posted 'all over' the DT site:
"DO NOT OPERATE IN WATTAGE MODE UNLESS IT’S BELOW 11WATTS PLEASE ONLY OPERATE in TEMPERATURE CONTROL
START at LOWEST TEMP AND GO UP PAY ATTENTION TO TEMPERATURE AND HEAT"
http://ineedhemp.com/product/2-pack-replacment-bases/
(capitals his)
OF
http://ineedhemp.com/product/2-pack-replacment-bases/
(capitals his)
OF