Firewood Vaporizer

Vapenvy

Vapenvy

Indie vaper
Great tips guys, thanks. Will start with the lip balm or cork and order mflb caps next time i buy stuff (as i have gifted my mflb to a friend).

Now, allow me to thank you all by taking you on a short visual journey to the centre of the firewood.

First up, a close up of the crack after i dropped it



A slow Unveiling of the good stuff



Now the gizzards







And finally, the glued together fw3 after a very light sand to remove excess glue. This is the worst side as the other side cracked pretty much along the original glue line. I have also not yet properly sanded it or applied any wax. I will post after i do this with more before and after shots if people are interested.

 
vapen00b

vapen00b

Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
paytonpenn said:
It's cold man.. But here's some freshly waxed sides.

4n1ZwQz.jpg
sEPpU7e.jpg
Click to expand...
Hey man! Nice job.
Did you apply the beeswax that came with it? Also wonder if you did sandpaper it before?

Strange thing with my unit is, it got sorta paler after a few uses. Got some spots/places where it's brightened up ... Was wondering if I did something to it unintentionally - but was just using it. Normal humidity, temps etc..

Also applied some wax to it... But it seems it doesn't make a difference.. Still pretty uneven wood color. Then again, I'm not a "wood guy" - I love it but ain't know shoot about it..
Has anyone a clue or encountered the same?


Interesting to hear from quite a bunch of guys about the smells. I find the FW pretty smelly - when loaded and not in use - compared to my Air and ESV (this one smells not at all. Clear winner IMO). Even after use when I put it in my case - the next time I open it the smell is definitely still there.. Of course fainted but yet noticeable.
Sure, it depends on strain and quality. And I'm a sensitive police dog :D
 
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P

paytonpenn

Level 30 Nature/Healer
vapen00b said:
Hey man! Nice job.
Did you apply the beeswax that came with it? Also wonder if you did sandpaper it before?

Strange thing with unit is, it got sorta paler after a few uses. Got some spots/places where it's brightened up ... Was wondering if I did somewhere to it unintentionally - but was just using is.. Normal humidity, temps etc..

Also applied some wax to it... But it seems it doesn't make a difference.. Still pretty uneven wood color. Then again, I'm not a "wood guy" - I love it but ain't know shoot about it..
Has anyone a clue or encountered the same?
Click to expand...
I used Underbutter, never sanded my unit but that doesn't sound appealing I would like to keep the grains and finish. I did that waxing like 3 weeks ago, the unit does not stay that glossy for more than a day. Here are the before pics.

uuRcoqD.jpg
LKhC12B.jpg
 
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WoodVillain

WoodVillain

Backwoods Rated
You can keep the grain and get an even "nicer" finish depending on which grit you sand too. Just make sure to also remove the dust after sanding before you add the finish "wax" .... And always sand with the grain of course.

Dust can get in between the grain and give wood a duller appearance, try a very little bit of your wax/butter, i like tung oil but only a very very little, on a paper towel (cheesecloth is better) and buff the wood between sanding, this should help give you an even nicer "brighter" look by helping to get the dust particles out of the grain.

Higher the grit, more buffing, finer the finish...Wood can SHINE like a mirror if you spend the time on it.



Vapenoob, the oil in your hands can darken wood over time. Maybe that could explain the darker areas on yours. Dirt, dust, and scratches can dull it. I'd sand it down a little bit if it bothered me. A drywall sanding sponge works wonders for me on stuff like this... And then re coat with your wax.
 
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aeburnside

aeburnside

420 star general
Vapenvy said:
Great tips guys, thanks. Will start with the lip balm or cork and order mflb caps next time i buy stuff (as i have gifted my mflb to a friend).

Now, allow me to thank you all by taking you on a short visual journey to the centre of the firewood.

First up, a close up of the crack after i dropped it



A slow Unveiling of the good stuff



Now the gizzards







And finally, the glued together fw3 after a very light sand to remove excess glue. This is the worst side as the other side cracked pretty much along the original glue line. I have also not yet properly sanded it or applied any wax. I will post after i do this with more before and after shots if people are interested.

Click to expand...

Thanks for these pics of the guts. Is the vibration motor the small silver thing in the 4th pic behind the blue and red wires? Looks like a pretty simple device if any one needs to fix a loose connection.
 
aeburnside,
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KeroZen

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
So now I'm curious! Where is the air intake exactly? Somewhere at the bottom or on the side like in the FW2.1?

Is the white material on the pictures some kind of Teflon/PTFE tape? Below the translucid stuff looks like silicone, but the brown wires insulation looks more like old school PVC wire tubing. It's hard to see but are the wiskers some kind of hot glue bits? What is the blue stuff?

It's nearly as messy as the alpha/beta Zion internals, and it's in both cases quite obvious these devices are hand-crafted by a single man. I'm not super thrilled to see all of this possibly exposed to the airpath. At least in the Zion there are only the two power wires going to the heater exposed, all the circuitry is remote and isolated.

But before people start telling me again that I'm currently breathing air that was in contact with my laptop motherboard, I'll stop here, as it's quite obvious most FC members don't care about these concerns anyway.

Besides, both my FW2.1 and Zion are the vapes that had the more neutral smell when new in my fleet. And in a sense, they fare better than most high-end over-engineered devices out there.
 
btka

btka

Well-Known Member
aeburnside

aeburnside

420 star general
KeroZen said:
So now I'm curious! Where is the air intake exactly? Somewhere at the bottom or on the side like in the FW2.1?

Is the white material on the pictures some kind of Teflon/PTFE tape? Below the translucid stuff looks like silicone, but the brown wires insulation looks more like old school PVC wire tubing. It's hard to see but are the wiskers some kind of hot glue bits? What is the blue stuff?

It's nearly as messy as the alpha/beta Zion internals, and it's in both cases quite obvious these devices are hand-crafted by a single man. I'm not super thrilled to see all of this possibly exposed to the airpath. At least in the Zion there are only the two power wires going to the heater exposed, all the circuitry is remote and isolated.

But before people start telling me again that I'm currently breathing air that was in contact with my laptop motherboard, I'll stop here, as it's quite obvious most FC members don't care about these concerns anyway.

Besides, both my FW2.1 and Zion are the vapes that had the more neutral smell when new in my fleet. And in a sense, they fare better than most high-end over-engineered devices out there.
Click to expand...

I understand your concerns however, from the pictures, it's clear that the surface area that contacts HEATED air is mainly glass and stainless steel (though, you're right, the intakes (plug and logo vents) would bring room temp air past all the electronics and "stuff" on the bottom right corner). The heated area corresponds to the warmth that you can feel along the wooden body under and around the mouthpiece while in use. Has anyone noticed the wooden body getting hot near the plug/intake (bottom of the mouthpiece side) while in use? That would concern me more but I don't think it's happened to mine yet (3 weeks into ownership).
 
P

paytonpenn

Level 30 Nature/Healer
aeburnside said:
Has anyone noticed the wooden body getting hot near the plug/intake (bottom of the mouthpiece side) while in use? That would concern me more but I don't think it's happened to mine yet (3 weeks into ownership).
Click to expand...
The body gets warm on the front (the front is the side that has the FW logo) above the heater where the capsule sits. That is the only area that seems to get hot for me.
 
J

j-bug

Well-Known Member
aeburnside said:
I understand your concerns however, from the pictures, it's clear that the surface area that contacts HEATED air is mainly glass and stainless steel (though, you're right, the intakes (plug and logo vents) would bring room temp air past all the electronics and "stuff" on the bottom right corner). The heated area corresponds to the warmth that you can feel along the wooden body under and around the mouthpiece while in use. Has anyone noticed the wooden body getting hot near the plug/intake (bottom of the mouthpiece side) while in use? That would concern me more but I don't think it's happened to mine yet (3 weeks into ownership).
Click to expand...
I've not experienced the device being hot in any area that would be concerning after having seen the internals. I have had the device autoshutoff despite having plenty of battery after having it on 4 for a while so I'd guess there's some sort of autoshutoff based on heat of the device overall which if that's the case and not a flaw in my device would be a nice safety feature imo.
 
vapen00b

vapen00b

Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
WoodVillain said:
You can keep the grain and get an even "nicer" finish depending on which grit you sand too. Just make sure to also remove the dust after sanding before you add the finish "wax" .... And always sand with the grain of course.

Dust can get in between the grain and give wood a duller appearance, try a very little bit of your wax/butter, i like tung oil but only a very very little, on a paper towel (cheesecloth is better) and buff the wood between sanding, this should help give you an even nicer "brighter" look by helping to get the dust particles out of the grain.

Higher the grit, more buffing, finer the finish...Wood can SHINE like a mirror if you spend the time on it.



Vapenoob, the oil in your hands can darken wood over time. Maybe that could explain the darker areas on yours. Dirt, dust, and scratches can dull it. I'd sand it down a little bit if it bothered me. A drywall sanding sponge works wonders for me on stuff like this... And then re coat with your wax.
Click to expand...
Hey man! Thanks so much for all your knowledge. I'll try to follow your instructions, hopefully very soon.. Is it also safe/ok/good to sand with steel wool (finest grade - 0000)? I have some here.. Ordered it a while back to sand my guitar fretboard.. I read it's ok to polish with it., so I'm wondering if that's ok?

I might post a pic of the areas to give an impression... It's just I don't want to do anything wrong stupid. I love this piece of wood... And I'm wood00b.. No, who am I? Never mind:D

@j-bug This is odd. It definitely gets warm/hot on the front as @paytonpenn states.. Around the capsule.
I never felt any heat around the air intake.., will pay attention to it next time using it tho.


Is the filigree fw logo also an air intake? I thought it's only the 3 holes? Wonder how to apply the finish and leaving these free of wax ... That would be some precision work not to mess it up - along with sanding.
 
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Edric al-Fali

Edric al-Fali

Well-Known Member
Very cool pics @Vapenvy I took similar pics of the broken parts, but I forgot to take pictures of the heater itself. I was shocked at how simple the insides were. It still looked much sturdier than I expected. I was more concerned about damaging the electronics than the body.

Right now, I haven't glued it. The bottom plate is slightly cracked and I fear time will cause it to splinter apart further. I measured and cut a nice steel brace plate at work out of some scrap metal and drilled holes for the charger and button. A bunch of rubberbands holds the brace and bottom cover.
A little extra work and I will have a minimal brace holding it all together.

Here it is in its former glory.

vQg5D0R.jpg


Here it is in the middle of recovery.
LWMfkFy.jpg
 
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CarrotWarrior

CarrotWarrior

Well-Known Member
So I think the effects have been mostly based on the type of strains I've been going through :doh:

I've had some jack, blue dream very mild terpenes. Not as pungent a smell more and more functional uppity buzz.

Today just reuped some of that sourd and oh boy lets just say the stank of this dank has really broken in my firewood lol :goon::leaf:

Finding more potent hits

it's been a month or so since I've had good bud I guess :\

Anyways, Cheers to everyone night capping the weekend :haw:
 
P

paytonpenn

Level 30 Nature/Healer

Description;
For the purposes of this video the Firewood is on level 7, I set the temperature to level 4.

With the screen-ception I have 4 screens bound within each other to hold oil. Off screen I take a primer puff intended to pull the oils into the screen. Alternatively one can make a "screen-ception" with stainless steel mesh (or a micron screens) as well. It definitely looks more attractive than what was seen in the video.

I personally prefer this method over the next two methods, primarily because there isn't another material in the air path creating vapor so I am fully aware of how much is actually getting extracted. It's beneficial that I can clean the screens and don't have to just toss them after using once; and doesn't necessarily have to clean them immediately.

It is inconvenient that some oil does leak through on the sides of the glass and I'm sure some comes through in general. While I don't continue hitting the capsule in the video I was definitely not at the end of the oil I could extract from it. I find this method to allow me to pull more vapor than the cotton/rayon method.


For time purposes I had all dabs preloaded. I use rayon since the flavor is more inert when it discolors and it has a higher temperature resistance than cotton. From my experience both yield identical results, except in flavor and longevity.

Cotton/Rayon can often give pretty big clouds even sometimes thicker than the screen method. Only negative is flavor and how harsh it can be when you reach higher temps. I have found light vapor to form and cotton/rayon to discolor when no concentrates are present.

Honestly, I dislike using herb and oil together. Understanding its the primary go to for most I decided to actually included it this time. The results with herb and oil are great; you will be rewarded a lengthy session, while your herb may be total abv the concentrates are probably still present and need of further extraction.
Click to expand...
 
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Vapenvy

Vapenvy

Indie vaper
aeburnside said:
Thanks for these pics of the guts. Is the vibration motor the small silver thing in the 4th pic behind the blue and red wires? Looks like a pretty simple device if any one needs to fix a loose connection.
Click to expand...

Yeah, i assume that is the vibration motor. Nothing else looked likely.

KeroZen said:
So now I'm curious! Where is the air intake exactly? Somewhere at the bottom or on the side like in the FW2.1?

Is the white material on the pictures some kind of Teflon/PTFE tape? Below the translucid stuff looks like silicone, but the brown wires insulation looks more like old school PVC wire tubing. It's hard to see but are the wiskers some kind of hot glue bits? What is the blue stuff?

It's nearly as messy as the alpha/beta Zion internals, and it's in both cases quite obvious these devices are hand-crafted by a single man. I'm not super thrilled to see all of this possibly exposed to the airpath. At least in the Zion there are only the two power wires going to the heater exposed, all the circuitry is remote and isolated.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the white material wrapped around the bottom of the glass heating tube is some type of ultrathin white tape, there is silicone underneath, kind of guiding air in or blocking or something.

Yes, possibly hot glue bits. I meant to check that and pull them off but forgot, so i can't be sure.

No idea about the blue stuff. Looks like a kind of plastic or silicon that was squirted in there. Maybe to dampen the vibration or stop the screws from vibrating loose.

I too was a little surprised to so that the electronics were open to the airpath, but seeing as there is hardly anything on that circuit board, and also air will mostly take the path of least resistance, it will mostly come in directly through the 3 air intake vents and into the heating tube. It never gets even warm anywhere near where the circuit board, glue, silicon stuff is. Maybe that tape on the glass tube would, though?

Very impressive heating design when you get to see it up close.

paytonpenn said:
Pretty sure I mentioned the airflow is accessed from every inlet which is how the bag design works. Could be similar to the MistVape and mflb where the internal materials are inert.
Click to expand...

True. If you block the air inlet, air will flow in through the botton hole and charging port.

Edit- and yes, hopefully it is all inert. I couldn't smell any electronics or glue even when the gizzards were exposed which is good.
 
KeroZen

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Thanks for the precisions. Let's not engage in any materials safety discussion here as it's against the rules. And to be honest, I trust Marc @ Firewood to do the right choices. It's always a matter of trade-offs as there aren't that many materials that can be used practically while supporting those temperatures. Plus I've seen my share of horrors in all those chinese vapes I tested, and I'm still using my FM5's daily even if their air intake is not 100% isolated from the innards.

From the look of it, the white tape could be teflon. It's used in many vapes. I personally don't like this material due to the numerous recent controversies around it, but that's not the topic. Isn't a part of the circuit missing in your pictures? I thought there was some IC and buttons to handle the temp settings... maybe it's a very small chip located next to the charging port? (it's obviously an open question as you already closed it again)

Anyways I love those gut-shots, it's very instructive.
 
freshly baked

freshly baked

Well-Known Member
Just got home. Maple and walnut firewood in the mailbox. Plugged them in and took a shower. Can twait till the light turns green. Its ok to use them plugged in I believe I've read. So here goes!
 
CarrotWarrior

CarrotWarrior

Well-Known Member
freshly baked said:
Just got home. Maple and walnut firewood in the mailbox. Plugged them in and took a shower. Can twait till the light turns green. Its ok to use them plugged in I believe I've read. So here goes!
Click to expand...

Ebony (Walnut) and Ivory (Maple) :tup:

I can't wait to get my maple unit as well. What a welcome with 2 different wood type units congrats !:science::sherlock:

Anyone operate the device differently or have any safety precautions when using superbly dank bud :leaf:.

I live in an apartment with my wife and just wondering outside of that environment how to keep myself smelling neutral and not bothering anyone, cheers guys happy Monday lol :sherlock:
 
freshly baked

freshly baked

Well-Known Member
CarrotWarrior said:
Ebony (Walnut) and Ivory (Maple) :tup:

I can't wait to get my maple unit as well. What a welcome with 2 different wood type units congrats !:science::sherlock:

Anyone operate the device differently or have any safety precautions when using superbly dank bud :leaf:.

I live in an apartment with my wife and just wondering outside of that environment how to keep myself smelling neutral and not bothering anyone, cheers guys happy Monday lol :sherlock:
Click to expand...
Thanks alot! Its hard to pick 1 over the other so if possible just have both! First impressions... I love it.. it is exactly what I need for work. I did hack the temp up 4 notches. More experimenting necessary. I am freaking higher than I've been in a long while. 3 capsules got me rurnt.
Edit. @CarrotWarrior. I use fireballs when I'm gonna be up in peoples face after vaping. Works for me and you can tell them thats why your eyes are so red too!
 
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