Archaicrevival

Well-Known Member
When life gives you lemons....pick the lime.
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mecker

Well-Known Member
How about going most of the way there but preserving the portable part? Solo/Air?

OF

Hadn't really thought of that yet since I already own the mflb I was thinking about buying a non portable. Anyway I gave them a look and even though I loved the Arizer Air it still exceeds my budget atm.

Thanks for the help!
 
mecker,
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OF

Well-Known Member
Hadn't really thought of that yet since I already own the mflb I was thinking about buying a non portable. Anyway I gave them a look and even though I loved the Arizer Air it still exceeds my budget atm.

Thanks for the help!
Your call, of course, but both are cheaper than the EQ? And from what you say will work as well for your needs and remain portable.

PIU has both Solo and Air for $160 or so shipped. You might also keep an eye on their 'last call' page. Open box (returns, tested with new accessories) Solos run $60 to $80 there, or have several times a year. They go fast of course. I've bought several to check out and pass on as gifts or for cheap to new guys. I got one with a weak battery that I changed, but otherwise no troubles at all. No Airs yet, but.......

OF
 

davesmith

Well-Known Member
Glass Blower
@mecker you def want a more powerful unit. If your on a budget maybe consider a torch powered portable. VG, vm, lotus, trii house, vapcap any of these will give you that raw power which you desire and will cost considerably less than a plug in. If not then Craigslist a dbv or ssv or eq or something. They always seem to be popping up.

Great advice from people and we all love the mflb. Just sometimes you want a bit more ooompf. I'd say VG coil personally, dirt cheap and hits like a ton of bricks. Bit awquard with technique but not as bad as the mflb so I'm sure you'll be fine.

Good luck on your hunt.
 
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davesmith,
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New_World

Cuck Fombustion
I'd say what's lacking is the big hit capability maybe. I still barely produce any visible vapor even though I get high from it. Was actually expecting a big improvement from my usual batteries which aren't fresh at all as I've only bought an extra pair since I originally got the box.

I think I need some more "power" when I'm at home and figured the PQ may be a good option.

Sounds like you need a SSV in addtion to your MFBL.
 

Tehmongoose

I like to hi
My 2.0 I just ordered has a button.
Also i'very found that 70%works best for me and 80-90 with the bottle rocket. The bottle rocket gets me much more medicated then the standard method.
Does anyone know if the dart is worth the cash? Or is it just a nice looking mouthpiece?

Hadn't really thought of that yet since I already own the mflb I was thinking about buying a non portable. Anyway I gave them a look and even though I loved the Arizer Air it still exceeds my budget atm.

Thanks for the help!

Check craigslist. They are always on there. I'very owned an extreme and the solo. Both are solid options and I can only imagine the air is even better. If portability is your priority get the solo or air, but if you want bigger rips that can be set by 3* increments, can use balloons and a whip get the extreme. I once made a bag out of a trash bag for a party sesh lol!! The heat up time isn't bad but it's not as fast as the portables.
The benefit of the extreme is that you don't need to charge it and the unit is always ready to go. I had mine for 2 years with no problem and the friend that bought mine is still using it 3 years later.
If taste is a factor, the 2 I've tried basically are the same, but I liked the extreme a little,more and they are always on cl.
But to be honest i've really been digging the mflb with pa. You can adjust heat for the mouthpiece and water cooled devices.
 
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OmniForge

Member
Do you guys find that the MFLB vapes the bud unevenly? Any tips on how to use it best? I don't usually fill it up %100. should I?
 
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AJS

Calm Consistency
Do you guys find that the MFLB vapes the bud unevenly? Any tips on how to use it best? I don't usually fill it up %100. should I?
Finer grind, tapping between hits to "stir the pot", and occasionally tapping or shaking mid hit in order to keep an even roast. All of these will work.

FINE GRIND is very important with the flight box.
Try not vaping as hot either, might help with the even vaping.

Definitely grind fine though, can't emphasize this enough.
Tap hard between hits to toss.
Good to go.
 

OmniForge

Member
Finer grind, tapping between hits to "stir the pot", and occasionally tapping or shaking mid hit in order to keep an even roast. All of these will work.

FINE GRIND is very important with the flight box.
Try not vaping as hot either, might help with the even vaping.

Definitely grind fine though, can't emphasize this enough.
Tap hard between hits to toss.
Good to go.
Thanks! That really is much better :)
 
OmniForge,

OF

Well-Known Member
Any tips on how to use it best?

Keep your batteries fresh, herb well cured (dry), grind fine (or very fine), never fill over the rails and shake, shake, shake between hits.

Only the surface of the mesh gets heated, only the tiny fraction of herb in direct contact can get heated enough to make vapor. Keep that part fresh, shaking does that. Weak heating of the mesh further diminishes the potential for vapor. Unless you use a PA and push it to combustion the extra power is used to make vapor directly (not pay 'overhead'), keep rotating batteries until you get the hang of it. After that you can easily do a trench on a charge, even a trench and a half.

Don't put water (moist bud) in, that robs precious vaping power, water gets first dibs on power, you have to dry it out before you get good vapor anyway so why not before? And condensed water vapor inside the box is what makes fouling happen. Being good on keeping the water out can seriously limit or even prevent fouling as many have reported here.

One last tip, don't mess with the weld of the mesh to the rails. Lots of guys have damaged theirs fussing with buildup which continues to degrade once started. It's eventually fatal.

Best advice is to experiment with technique and follow the results you like.

Regards,

OF
 

Tehmongoose

I like to hi
Is anyone using the magic flight "finishing grinder"? Normally I use my scs and flip it upside down for a finer grind.
 
Tehmongoose,
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His_Highness

In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
Is anyone using the magic flight "finishing grinder"? Normally I use my scs and flip it upside down for a finer grind.

I grind to a medium consistency (Using a normal grinder) for my other vapes and then take some of the medium grind and grind further in a cheap small metal fine mesh sifter. I like to do a week's worth at a time to allow for additional drying. Turns it into a powder for the MFLB that I keep in a separate container.

Even when I allow the finer grind to dry out it can get a little stuck to the mesh screen after the first draw requiring I use the brush to move it off. Sometimes I just use the medium grind and halfway through the session dump it in my hand and pinch grind it.
 

OmniForge

Member
Keep your batteries fresh, herb well cured (dry), grind fine (or very fine), never fill over the rails and shake, shake, shake between hits.

Only the surface of the mesh gets heated, only the tiny fraction of herb in direct contact can get heated enough to make vapor. Keep that part fresh, shaking does that. Weak heating of the mesh further diminishes the potential for vapor. Unless you use a PA and push it to combustion the extra power is used to make vapor directly (not pay 'overhead'), keep rotating batteries until you get the hang of it. After that you can easily do a trench on a charge, even a trench and a half.

Don't put water (moist bud) in, that robs precious vaping power, water gets first dibs on power, you have to dry it out before you get good vapor anyway so why not before? And condensed water vapor inside the box is what makes fouling happen. Being good on keeping the water out can seriously limit or even prevent fouling as many have reported here.

One last tip, don't mess with the weld of the mesh to the rails. Lots of guys have damaged theirs fussing with buildup which continues to degrade once started. It's eventually fatal.

Best advice is to experiment with technique and follow the results you like.

Regards,

OF
Man, who would of thought that such a simple device can have so many little tricks to it, they all make sense though. Thanks for all the great advice. two more questions, if you guys don't mind. 1) I find that the MFLB eventually kills my batteries. How long do they last if discharged and recharging them correctly? 2) The little light inside went out when I was cleaning it. Anything idea about how to get it back on?
 
OmniForge,
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OF

Well-Known Member
1) I find that the MFLB eventually kills my batteries. How long do they last if discharged and recharging them correctly? 2) The little light inside went out when I was cleaning it. Anything idea about how to get it back on?

Never deep discharge them, keep them cool and recharge correctly and you can get many hundreds (perhaps over 1000?) 'cycles' from them. It'll be a 'diminishing returns' deal, they'll get weaker and weaker until you break down and buy replacements then you'll avoid using them further. Not to worry, keep them well charged and enjoy them. Stick with the factory battery if you can.

Most likely you've broken one of the wire leads off, there's no way to replace or repair it without taking the screen out, which means new screen and tools. I'd check with MF, IIRC it's not covered since it's an indication only deal? Then again they have a history of making folks happy. FWIW the first 'boxes' didn't have the light and there have been several styles of bulbs thus far. I'd say most of us don't look at them any more? Like 'feeling' the engine rather than looking at the tach when changing gears, you know how the box is running without that instrument.

OF
 

howie105

Well-Known Member
I find that the MFLB eventually kills my batteries. How long do they last if discharged and recharging them correctly? 2) The little light inside went out when I was cleaning it. Anything idea about how to get it back on?

Best to consider the batteries as consumable items or be ready to do the battery dance first then replace the batteries at a later date.

Kiss the light goodbye they all eventually go its just a question of how long.
 
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His_Highness

In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
Searching this thread for battery or batteries will give you quite the education on everything from chargers to different batteries that can be used. I've got 12 batteries for the MFLB but the Glyphs occasionally lose their staying power and retraining/refreshing them takes a long time and gets you limited returns so I've taken to just throwing them out or marking them to note which are headed for the trash bin.

Warning....don't just throw them in the trash. Keep the caps but make sure you throw them away in a manner that won't let them touch/activate against something metal. I usually put one in a plastic bag for the throw away.
 

OmniForge

Member
Never deep discharge them, keep them cool and recharge correctly and you can get many hundreds (perhaps over 1000?) 'cycles' from them. It'll be a 'diminishing returns' deal, they'll get weaker and weaker until you break down and buy replacements then you'll avoid using them further. Not to worry, keep them well charged and enjoy them. Stick with the factory battery if you can.

Most likely you've broken one of the wire leads off, there's no way to replace or repair it without taking the screen out, which means new screen and tools. I'd check with MF, IIRC it's not covered since it's an indication only deal? Then again they have a history of making folks happy. FWIW the first 'boxes' didn't have the light and there have been several styles of bulbs thus far. I'd say most of us don't look at them any more? Like 'feeling' the engine rather than looking at the tach when changing gears, you know how the box is running without that instrument.

OF
Oh wow, I feel like I'm killing my batteries too fast. I got to make sure not to discharge them too much from now on. As for the little light, I wouldn't be surprised if they did offer to fix or replace it, but it's just a light. As long as that sweet vapor is there I'm happy haha. Thanks again for all the kick ass info.

Searching this thread for battery or batteries will give you quite the education on everything from chargers to different batteries that can be used. I've got 12 batteries for the MFLB but the Glyphs occasionally lose their staying power and retraining/refreshing them takes a long time and gets you limited returns so I've taken to just throwing them out or marking them to note which are headed for the trash bin.

Warning....don't just throw them in the trash. Keep the caps but make sure you throw them away in a manner that won't let them touch/activate against something metal. I usually put one in a plastic bag for the throw away.
Yeah, proper disposal and storage is very important. I learned the hard way to be careful with those batteries. It only melted on of my charges, but could have easily been worse.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Oh wow, I feel like I'm killing my batteries too fast.

It's easy to do pushing too hard. Most NiMH makers consider it fatal to let it get below 1 Volt or so, unlike NiCds. The do much better with a fresh charge anyway. As soon as I notice them slow down (lower heat, longer wait) I swap them. The key is to have spares ready so you're not tempted.

OF
 
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