Vapman

Ive been using the filling tool as a stirring aid recently. Pop it on and means you can actually stir and not lose much product. Only like to do a little stir right at the end. Its been working well

@vapman have you thought about selling a little pot of beeswax/oil or similar for keeping wood nice and lustrous. Might be nice for for people who buy basics also as they could help protect their vm

VapourHaze said:

@vapman have you thought about selling a little pot of beeswax/oil or similar for keeping wood nice and lustrous. Might be nice for for people who buy basics also as they could help protect their vm

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That could be a problem, running afoul of hazards regulations. Even in very small quantities waxes typically contain solvents of concern to some countries. A real mine field I think. You might be able to skate around it with solid waxes (stick form) but they're a PITA to use.

The official finish is (boiled) Linseed Oil, IMO an excellent choice. A classic gunstock finish for long, tough service and beauty at the same time. Unfortunately it to is typically loaded with nasty chemicals as far as the MSDS guys look at it. They sometimes include 'dryers' that are flat out toxic.

My best advice is to buy locally. Hardware stores sell pints or larger containers (which will dry out after opening.....), Gun Shops sell smaller bottles and include brands that are improved (drying speed, hardness, and so on) over 'plain vanilla' Linseed Oil. Even the Sporting Goods section of places like Walmart.......

One more tip, after you use a bit from the jar, store it upside down......it dries out slower that way once the seal is broken.

OF

OF said:

That could be a problem, running afoul of hazards regulations. Even in very small quantities waxes typically contain solvents of concern to some countries. A real mine field I think. You might be able to skate around it with solid waxes (stick form) but they're a PITA to use.

The official finish is (boiled) Linseed Oil, IMO an excellent choice. A classic gunstock finish for long, tough service and beauty at the same time. Unfortunately it to is typically loaded with nasty chemicals as far as the MSDS guys look at it. They sometimes include 'dryers' that are flat out toxic.

My best advice is to buy locally. Hardware stores sell pints or larger containers (which will dry out after opening.....), Gun Shops sell smaller bottles and include brands that are improved (drying speed, hardness, and so on) over 'plain vanilla' Linseed Oil. Even the Sporting Goods section of places like Walmart.......

One more tip, after you use a bit from the jar, store it upside down......it dries out slower that way once the seal is broken.

OF

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Interesting .. thanks for the detailed reply. I only asked as i recently bought a daisy and it came with a little chapstick of beeswax/walnut oil. I rubbed a little on my vm and it seems ok? Maybe that wasnt advisable.

vapman said:

Any chance it got in contact with some solvent?

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Maybe it's from the butane sometimes when filling if it's not going quick enough. Lol
I'll push it on & off and I'll get a little spray of tane.
Thanks for the info I'll just be more careful filling.
I'm really wanting an ebony VM when they are available I'll get a new torch and be more careful.

OF said:

A purge might in the end be necessary.

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I didn't purge because it was new. I'm sure that's it given the nature of the problem. Funny, I always do this to my own before refilling but it didn't occurr to me to do it this time!? Maybe I was overexcited? @vapman .

VapourHaze said:

Might be nice for for people who buy basics also as they could help protect their vm

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VapourHaze said:

I rubbed a little on my vm and it seems ok? Maybe that wasnt advisable.

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My post earlier mentions me sanding down my basic and using BLO to finish it, there's and after picture should you feel inspired. I'm sure the included beeswax with your triihouse purchase is safe. If it has an ingredients list I'd check it though.

@nondarb ah yes you did a very fine job too my vm is already finished with the mica. I just saw the wax and the vm and thought it wouldnt do any harm. It actually doesnt look particularly any more lustrous than before.. so maybe it was all superfluous in the end.

vapman said:

I have not seen this on that lighter before but I have seen something similar on an other lighter and there it was solvents like methylated spirits causing this problem. Any chance it got in contact with some solvent?

Vapman

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Hi @vapman ! I actually have a couple of lighters that have this as well. One has completely cracked in my hands while refilling and sprayed butane around and the other one is full of cracks in the inside of the tank but visible from the outside. Also one of the new ones that I recently received had its nozzle placed wrong and its impossible to get to place it the right way. That one is misbehaving a little... Do the lighters have any warranty, I wonder?

nondarb said:

I got the basic pear, however I disassembled it (save the tubes that are pressed in?) did a light sand and put a coat of BLO on it the day I got it. Will probably buff the middle ring with beeswax at a later date.

The ring section has got a nice natural darker color to it, almost looks like walnut. Was a pleasant surprise.

I love this thing. For a butane vape the temp control is surprisingly easy, 2 days in and I can finish a small pan in 2 hits or 4-5 tasty puffs. I've only managed to scorch once, everything since thens been copacetic. Very even AVB, stirring seems to be a non issue though I fear for the springs health! Checking out what's going on every puff must be hard on them.

I'll make a .gif or video through glass later, I'm getting some solid rips. This little guy was a very pleasant surprise.

My included lighters piezo goes through inexplicable bouts of not wanting to work sometimes, its very weird. However my package was handled and inspected by customs on both sides, maybe trying to ignite it empty of butane caused damage? At any rate I'll need some smaller torches, my others are a little large/bushy for the VM. Shame, I really like the easy piezo on the vapman torch.

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That's beautiful. Great job.

Can you post a pic from the bottom? Id love to see it.

M0J0 said:

That's beautiful. Great job.

Can you post a pic from the bottom? Id love to see it.

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I wasn't able to sand it as satisfactorily as I'd like due to the tubes being pressed into the pan, while I had it loose I had to chase them around the ring to reach the nooks and crannies . To sand more precisely and to reduce risk of damaging the tubes I rolled a bit of 220 grit sandpaper around a chopstick and hit it as well as I could. I was nervous of scratching or otherwise damaging the gold plate so I didn't hit it too hard.

nondarb said:

I wasn't able to sand it as satisfactorily as I'd like due to the tubes being pressed into the pan, while I had it loose I had to chase them around the ring to reach the nooks and crannies . To sand more precisely and to reduce risk of damaging the tubes I rolled a bit of 220 grit sandpaper around a chopstick and hit it as well as I could. I was nervous of scratching or otherwise damaging the gold plate so I didn't hit it too hard.

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It looks really good!

I thought it would be much more charred around the bowl.

It's a thing of beauty. Great job man!

M0J0 said:

It looks really good!

I thought it would be much more charred around the bowl.

It's a thing of beauty. Great job man!

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Its been getting some use! That's a picture from today, its probably had 60+ pans through it since oiling. I've got a problem overdoing it because the ritual is so fun!

A lot of the charring on basics is due to the rough sand of the raw wood, I only used it twice before sanding and oiling but I smelled burnt wood each time. I knew there would always be some torched area, I'm just trying to minimize any future damage.

The Vapman is such a fascinating device, deceptively simple and yet there isn't anything even remotely like it?! Before my purchase I simply couldn't fathom that a torch powered conduction vape (or any conduction vape) could be this efficient. I've nearly mastered 2 hit extraction of 1/2-3/4 full pans, I'm able to start cold and finish a pan quicker than it takes any of my electrics to warm up. As a neophyte I knew the vapman would be cool as its a very unique vaporizer, but I hadn't expected its function to exceed its "cool" factor.

Midnight/bedtime snack

nondarb said:

I got the basic pear, however I disassembled it (save the tubes that are pressed in?) did a light sand and put a coat of BLO on it the day I got it. Will probably buff the middle ring with beeswax at a later date.

Click to expand...

nondarb said:

I wasn't able to sand it as satisfactorily as I'd like due to the tubes being pressed into the pan, while I had it loose I had to chase them around the ring to reach the nooks and crannies . To sand more precisely and to reduce risk of damaging the tubes I rolled a bit of 220 grit sandpaper around a chopstick and hit it as well as I could. I was nervous of scratching or otherwise damaging the gold plate so I didn't hit it too hard.

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nondarb said:

A lot of the charring on basics is due to the rough sand of the raw wood, I only used it twice before sanding and oiling but I smelled burnt wood each time. I knew there would always be some torched area, I'm just trying to minimize any future damage.

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The Classic costs 50% more than the Basic here in the United States.
(yes... I know you get Mica too). That's a good chunk of savings and makes it worthwhile to get the Basic just to have around.

Having gone through the disassembly, the light sanding and oiling, do you think people with a little to moderate wood-working knowledge can do what you did?

I'm mostly concerned about extending the lifespan than appearance.

Two tone chared walnut from @M0J0 Coming up pn a year old still Kicking Ass & Looking Sweet.Imo



Long live the vapman...

Bizkat said:

The Classic costs 50% more than the Basic here in the United States.
(yes... I know you get Mica too). That's a good chunk of savings and makes it worthwhile to get the Basic just to have around.

Having gone through the disassembly, the light sanding and oiling, do you think people with a little to moderate wood-working knowledge can do what you did?

I'm mostly concerned about extending the lifespan than appearance.

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Absolutely, just be mindful of the tubes and pan while sanding the bottom and disassemble it on a good clean work table (to not loose any of the teeny tiny parts) those silicone mats for concentrates are really handy for keeping up with parts.

It wasn't particularly hard, just tedious work. All told I've probably got as much time wiping down the tubes and pan with iso and a qtip as I've got oiling the whole thing. I may be a carpenter, but my specialty is framing.. With metal and installing millwork. I've got no particular woodworking talent, I genuinely feel just about anyone with a little patience can enjoy results just as good or better than mine with a little elbow grease.

All that said if you've got the money this and more is already done to it. The dance sanding the bottom was not fun, every few strokes I was just certain I scratched the pan. I didn't but it felt like a very serious game of operation!

Melting Pot said:

Two tone chared walnut from @M0J0 Coming up pn a year old still Kicking Ass & Looking Sweet.Imo

Long live the vapman...

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Still looks very good! It may have some little battle scars here and there, but that just gives it more character.

nondarb said:

It wasn't particularly hard, just tedious work.

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I like to think of it as detailed work

I like working on vapmans more than any other thing. Much more than doing my "real job" - working on crap that only exists in one's and zeroes (010010101010100100101011001) and it really makes my day to see one of my two-toned vapman still Kicking Ass and making someone happy long after I reluctantly sent it to a new home. It really is bitter sweet to see them go, but knowing their new owner appreciates it makes it all worth while.

I really feel like my positive energy is embedded into it. Just like René's is when he originally built it.

A vapman is something else, something really special and I feel lucky to be involved with it if only in a small way.

I have a question to all you vapman experts , i have only had mine about six months or so and really love it as mentioned in this thread when i first brought it esp for nice hash.

Well i have been wiping out the bowl each time while warm and that but every week or so the bowl gets very dark and mucky from caked on resin etc ,up till now i have been using a small scrubber and iso but the vigorous cleaning i think is removing the gold plate not sure but i can see small scratches.

how do you all clean your bowls back to gold without damaging the coating or dont i have much to worry about and am being to OCD about it?

i suppose i could remove the bowl and soak in iso but them screws will eventually wear out, if there is a page esp about cleaning if anyone can point me in the right direction would be great , thanks in advance......

RastaVapa said:

I have a question to all you vapman experts , i have only had mine about six months or so and really love it as mentioned in this thread when i first brought it esp for nice hash.

Well i have been wiping out the bowl each time while warm and that but every week or so the bowl gets very dark and mucky from caked on resin etc ,up till now i have been using a small scrubber and iso but the vigorous cleaning i think is removing the gold plate not sure but i can see small scratches.

how do you all clean your bowls back to gold without damaging the coating or dont i have much to worry about and am being to OCD about it?

i suppose i could remove the bowl and soak in iso but them screws will eventually wear out, if there is a page esp about cleaning if anyone can point me in the right direction would be great , thanks in advance......

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I scrape mine off with a knife. Seems pretty savage but im careful and seems fine. Im pretty sure @vapman himself recommended this technique?

I get mine excessively hot then work with a tooth pick and a Qtip soaked in iso.
Alot here use a magic eraser bought at the clraning store.
Hope this helps.

Melting Pot said:

I get mine excessively hot then work with a tooth pick and a Qtip soaked in iso.
Alot here use a magic eraser bought at the clraning store.
Hope this helps.

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Thanks all, when you say magic eraser you mean like an eraser for pencil etc ? Never thought of that man , i will have a look in craft store tomorrow

RastaVapa said:

......you mean like an eraser for pencil etc ?

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Nope, Try using Mr clean Magic eraser. Cut a little piece off get it a little wet and rub it on the "bowl". Gets it like brand new, IME.

The mr clean magic eraser pad work perfect!!
I tried the knife but wasn't having the best luck getting it back to the brand new shine. With a gentle elbow grease, a small cut of the eraser pad damp with warm water, and I couldn't believe how clean it came out!!

I'm with @Melting Pot waiting on the ebony or any other exotic wood vapman.

@vapman once those stations come in black I will have my cash ready to make the purchase!! Toss in a basic exotic to go with it and I'll be set. Patience is what the old folk taught, so I shall wait quietly. Also excited to see the mica washers in the wild. Thanks @vapman for always working to improve the best vaporizer this earth!!

VapourHaze said:

@vapman have you thought about selling a little pot of beeswax/oil or similar for keeping wood nice and lustrous. Might be nice for for people who buy basics also as they could help protect their vm

Click to expand...

@VapourHaze I have not thought about this to be honest. After reading OF's post, I also think that this could be a problem with some customs, I know that some airlines don't allow boiled linseed oil in their air planes for instance and boiled linseed oil is what we use on the classic models.
At this occasion I also want to point out, that none of the wood protecting products (wax, oils) is protecting vapman from the heat or making the lifespan any longer, it is aesthetic only and protects the wood from getting stained by greasy fingers.

natural farmer said:

Hi @vapman ! I actually have a couple of lighters that have this as well. One has completely cracked in my hands while refilling and sprayed butane around and the other one is full of cracks in the inside of the tank but visible from the outside. Also one of the new ones that I recently received had its nozzle placed wrong and its impossible to get to place it the right way. That one is misbehaving a little... Do the lighters have any warranty, I wonder?

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@natural farmer: There is no warranty on such lighters, that is why I check each lighter individually on single sales to make sure the lighter works for the client. If someone orders three lighters or more at once, I usually don't check the lighters but add one lighter more to the package hoping that at least three of them will work properly. Checking out a lighter takes some time for unpacking, filling a little gas, working the valve, emptying the tank and packing it all back in again. In your case, as far I remember, I added an extra lighter to the three lighters you actually ordered and it was pure bad luck that you have issues with two of them as normally only 2-4 lighters out of 100 are playing up.

The problem with replacing the lighters are the high shipping costs, to ship a lighter abroad from Switzerland costs twice as much as a new lighter. I will gladly replace your lighters with your next order or an order of a friend of yours!
This is why I recommend to buy cheap lighters close to where you live or get the lighter with the set for only an extra 3 dollars.

As mentioned in the previous post, I have not seen cracks on any of our lighters so far and I don't think it is from spilling liquid gas over the tank when filling, I spill regularly gas when filling and never had a crack on my lighter. Could it be sun light or is it some solvent? Any alcoholic drink is actually a solvent and I know that some plastics (Nylon) are sensitive to that.


vapman

Modnote: Back to back posts merged

Philreal187 said:

I'm with @Melting Pot

@vapman once those stations come in black I will have my cash ready to make the purchase!! Toss in a basic exotic to go with it and I'll be set. Patience is what the old folk taught, so I shall wait quietly. Also excited to see the mica washers in the wild. Thanks @vapman for always working to improve the best vaporizer this earth!!

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@Philreal187 We will have black stations and hopefully we will also have some ebony vapman, I just ordered some more wood a few days ago. Black station with an ebony vapman must look quite special I guess, looking forward myself to see such combination. I promise to offer you a good deal on such set, I call it the Bob Marley set. (I wonder what Bob Marley would think about that and if he would vaporize when still alive?)
Regarding the mica washers, I expect them to arrive this week. I will send a bunch to @MOJO (our service and repair man in the US) and I will also send washers to anyone asking us through our email.


vapman

A black heating station will be too much to resist! The ebony vm is beautiful ... my gf uses mine so it is still in good condition compared to my battle scarred yewy!

@RastaVapa I can vouch for the magic eraser too (they are a melamine sponge). A small piece and a toothpick is all you need. I even use it on the wood of my vapman. Just remember to support the bowl from underneath while you clean it as to not stress the air tubes.

@Gourmet uses tooth paste as a gentle abrasive to clean his pan which is a great idea too. If you search his early posts in this thread he posted a very detailed explanation.

HERE is the link to that post. It's too good to be missed.