Divine Tribe atty's
- Thread starter divinetribe
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My DC actually doesn't work the way Matt showed in the video. Unit just gets hot and no amount of watts or draw technique result in vapor. I suspect I received a defective unit, and I'm still communicating with Matt. Quite a bummer, as the unit itself looks great and build quality seems to be good.
People are saying a tight pack, fine grind, and slow draw are the right techniques to use.
People are saying a tight pack, fine grind, and slow draw are the right techniques to use.
Hoosier
Well-Known Member
Where are you seeing any discussion from other users?
Czechyourhead
Well-Known Member
Initial reaction to the new 2.7 splatter guard; I really like it. The increased airflow is great. Seems to work as intended.
I prefer the invader mini @210 and 20w. Further testing is of course needed.
I prefer the invader mini @210 and 20w. Further testing is of course needed.
kernal6500
Well-Known Member
is anyone else having difficulty cleaning the splash guard. already have oil that popped up. I cant wait until the next design! I'm tired of having oil stuck on the splash guard. The new design is going to be the game changer imo
Is it getting hot? If it is getting hot then it should be working. I have't figured out how to get good consistency with the dry herb Atomizer. The taste is there, but it seems to almost combust. I need to play around with it more
Haywood
Onward Thru the Fog
Why does this remind me of the discussions here when the Thermovape (RIP) portable herb vapes came out?
If the DC works anything like the Thermovape devices, it's all a matter of technique. As long as the DC is getting to the correct temp, and there's reasonable air flow, then a good vape will be dependent on preheat time, packing method, herb moisture content, and inhale rate. If you have the time and desire to check out some of the (long!) Thermovape and Thermovape Cera threads in this forum from a few years ago, you'll find a number of discussions about proper technique to get the most out of your vape. Both @OF and I were (are) fans of Thermovape and we both had long discussions about getting them to work to best effect. I'm not sure that the same methods that worked with the Thermovape devices will work with the DC, but the principles are the same.
(Note that while I have a couple of DT 2.5's here, as does OF, I don't have a DC and I suspect he doesn't either).
If the DC works anything like the Thermovape devices, it's all a matter of technique. As long as the DC is getting to the correct temp, and there's reasonable air flow, then a good vape will be dependent on preheat time, packing method, herb moisture content, and inhale rate. If you have the time and desire to check out some of the (long!) Thermovape and Thermovape Cera threads in this forum from a few years ago, you'll find a number of discussions about proper technique to get the most out of your vape. Both @OF and I were (are) fans of Thermovape and we both had long discussions about getting them to work to best effect. I'm not sure that the same methods that worked with the Thermovape devices will work with the DC, but the principles are the same.
(Note that while I have a couple of DT 2.5's here, as does OF, I don't have a DC and I suspect he doesn't either).
OF
Well-Known Member
I think you're absolutely right. Again. For sure I don't yet have a DC....hey, I just got the ship notice on my new 2.7.
FWIW I'm continuing to enjoy the Invader Mod with the 2.5s. You can limit the power and still use the TC function (although the calibration is different, right now I'm using 220F).
I'm not clear on how the DC works. Seems to me it's a conduction affair? Therefore it should be much more straightforward than the T1, Evolution and Cera are/were. No thermal core to 'charge up' first. I'm thinking that it's going to be more along the lines of MFLB, the owner will be a major factor in control? You can use the VW Mod to control the heat to some extent, but how you hit it will also play a big factor?
Something to look forward to checking out for sure. So many exciting vapes these days. Brothers and Sisters we're in tall cotton for sure.
OF
Haywood
Onward Thru the Fog
I've a bunch of small mods I use. My current fav is the Joyetech eVic-VTC Mini. Single 18650, very small, about the same size as my iStick 40W-TC, though not quite as rounded, really good 510 connector, 1W-75W, superb accuracy and signal (DC) throught the range, full TC, outstanding display. And while the 75W part isn't relevent to my needs, its ability to accurately go below 5W is very useful when I'm not using the Devine Tribe atty; my other oil atty's work best with oil when I set them in the 3.5W-5.5W range. And to add icing to the cake, Joyetech has been updating the firmware on an ongoing basis, first adding SS to the built in temp curves, then allowing the user to set three temp slopes themselves (which can be as simple as just altering a slope to tune ones own setup to track properly). They've also updated the UI (to great effect) a few times, at the suggestion of their users. They have both Mac and PC updaters and they provide every version of the firmware for download, not inhibiting one from backing off a version if one wants to. Lots of mfgs are including firmware updateability these days, but few actually wind up providing any updates.
I don't use TC with my DT. None of my DT atty's change resistance as their temperature changes, so I find it kind of pointless. My first try was with an iStick 40W-TC, which actually made for less tasty hits than when I just ran it in standard wattage mode, but that was probably because the iStick fired at the full 40W when in TC mode. The VTC Mini lets you set the initial wattage when in TC mode, so I just set it to the same wattage I use in non TC mode (12.5W). But even with the VTC Mini I didn't find any benefit to my experience using TC mode with the DT atty, so I don't anymore.
Steven
Well-Known Member
I just messed up my fire button on my invader mini and am looking for a new mod too. The evic VT mini does look nice. I really do prefer mods with external single 18650 batteries
Anybody have any suggestions. Or has anybody tried this mod with the donuts. I really like 5he trigger button. Only concern is that Wattage is not adjustable in TC mode but I may have heard it starts firing at 0watts. Not too sure though.
Anybody have any suggestions. Or has anybody tried this mod with the donuts. I really like 5he trigger button. Only concern is that Wattage is not adjustable in TC mode but I may have heard it starts firing at 0watts. Not too sure though.
OF
Well-Known Member
Yep, same basic experience. I like the iStick for size and weight but hammering the poor heater with 40W is not cool by me either. Hence the Invader. I set it to 12.5Watts, 220F. It gives a flash of 20 something Watts then sits on 12.5 while the temperature display ramps up. You can gauge the load by how fast the temperature comes up since it's having to melt the load so a fresh/heavy load ramps up slower. Then the power cuts back to 6 or so Watts if you don't hit it. A hit brings the power back up and so it goes.
Sucker weighs a ton, well not a ton but way more than necessary I think. And the shell connection is funny since the center post is fixed, not spring loaded as has become the norm. This is to keep it watertight for when you SCUBA dive I guess. But that means you have to adjust the top plate the cart threads into. You screw the top on the cart, then screw it all on top of the mod.
In case you haven't guess it.....wait for it......I think drilling out the 510 threads and tapping it out 3/8-24 means you can fit Cera carts on it....... I plan to test this out eventually, but I smell a whole new life for Cera EO.
And so it goes.
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
The only one. Which is good enough. It's evidently 400F or so but thinks it''s 220. So it has a lower TC than what the mod is expecting. It obviously changes (or works by magic.....), but the resistance display is all wonky following some tracking program. If you take the cart off then put it back and say it's new it gives a series of lowering resistance readings. Going from a bit under an ohm to .71 or so on the display. It doesn't change during the hit (he types after checking....). Some sort of adaptive deal, perhaps to do with how it controls the VW/TC issue?
If we peek at the numbers for Ni chrome (alloy unknown) and Nickle there's a huge difference in the magic coefficient:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/resistivity-conductivity-d_418.html
We have 0.4 or 6.4 'times ten to the minus 3' depending. This means while the pure Nickle will change .64% per degree C, that alloy is much less at .04%. Twelve times bigger change per degree in one case than the other. I can see how a shift in alloy can get it kinda confused. In broad terms I think the coefficient in the doughnut is about half what's expected.....whatever that is.
Or not.
OF
kernal6500
Well-Known Member
I really love how the new 2.7 cleans up. It looks like the donut is a little higher in the chamber so the reclaim does not build up in between the disc and the chamber. It only takes some heating up and its clean, good as new.
Still having leaks on the bottom of the atty where the threads are. I don't overload it at all either...
Still having leaks on the bottom of the atty where the threads are. I don't overload it at all either...
Steven
Well-Known Member
Idk about anyone else but I noticed if my heat is a bit too high, I eventually get leakage from the bottom. This was when I was finding my best setting. I think when it's too hot, the wax get too runny and leaks before it's vapes. Not sure but I never ever get leaks from the bottom
kernal6500
Well-Known Member
that may be my issue. It recently leaked after cleaning it out with high temperatures...
OF
Well-Known Member
I too am enjoying my new 2.7 top, it's already ten hours old......
Anyone else notice it's looser than the others, I have several tops (what with ceramic, glass and WT adapter) this one is definitely bigger. Not to the point of the mod and base dropping away if I pick it up by the top, but it can shift a bit.
Anyway, anyone else notice it or have a got a bigger than normal 2.7? No big deal I can see. It works fine...... TIA
OF
Anyone else notice it's looser than the others, I have several tops (what with ceramic, glass and WT adapter) this one is definitely bigger. Not to the point of the mod and base dropping away if I pick it up by the top, but it can shift a bit.
Anyway, anyone else notice it or have a got a bigger than normal 2.7? No big deal I can see. It works fine...... TIA
OF
Steven
Well-Known Member
I think the most subtle changes matters sometimes depending on the mod. Sometimes I used to experiment and would try higher heat and would just be confused as to why I wouldn't get as much or sometimes any vapor. I mean where does it go. I try to load another one and same thing...after messing with the settings and a few more bowls, I notice leakage. My only guess as to why I got no vapor was because it leaked into the bottom chamber.
I use 11.5w at 300f and never ever get leakage. I will get leakage if I use 12w at 300f
OF
Well-Known Member
Interesting. I guess I don't know what a "vape band" is but can kinda guess.
I'm not having tip over problems right now, using the Invader puts a HUGE weight on the bottom and has a wide base. If it tips over I'm more worried about crushing my foot........
Thanks.
Thanks as well. Different rings definitely change the grip. I've got a couple of kinds in use. But with any given ring/base combination (switching tops only) this 2.7 cap is definitely looser in every case. Interesting (at least to me) but not a problem.
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,
After much effort I've managed to really foul up a shallow 2.5 base. I used a couple grams of some 'tasty but dirty' Sour Diesel Wax I had left over from my switch to CO2 oils. It had managed, over time, to dry down to a much harder concentrate. Still almost as nice and just as dirty as before. I should have taken a picture, I don't intend to let one go that far again but wanted to see.
I decided to start with my usual routine for such things, washing in PBW. IMO much superior to ISO or ISO and salt in almost all cases if not all. So I rigged up a wash rig from available parts:
Pretty self explainatory, that's the finished body upper right. The tube links the outside of the syringe with t he nipple on the cover. The needle could be a bit longer, the jet blast helps clean it, and could be closer to the doughnut when assembled I think. Next time I go for a longer needle and bigger syringe. The 2.5 was 'running dry' with no visible leakage into the lower sections, but was covered by thick black deposits.
I put it cart down in a half full juice glass with a dash of PBW and hot tap water. A minute or so pumping in and out and the glass was full of nasty looking wash water. I changed wash water and went again, then rinsed. It was clean of concentrate but the burned on part was still there. A couple of runs working up to 15 Watts had the entire doughnut glowing and covered with ash that washed easily away in the third wash. Then pumping running watter in and out to rinse then paper towels and heating at 12 Watts has it clean, dry, and ready to go. Without any real mess or clouds of burnt concentrate. It took less than five minutes, quite reasonable maintenance for all the abuse I gave it.
For your consideration.
OF
After much effort I've managed to really foul up a shallow 2.5 base. I used a couple grams of some 'tasty but dirty' Sour Diesel Wax I had left over from my switch to CO2 oils. It had managed, over time, to dry down to a much harder concentrate. Still almost as nice and just as dirty as before. I should have taken a picture, I don't intend to let one go that far again but wanted to see.
I decided to start with my usual routine for such things, washing in PBW. IMO much superior to ISO or ISO and salt in almost all cases if not all. So I rigged up a wash rig from available parts:
Pretty self explainatory, that's the finished body upper right. The tube links the outside of the syringe with t he nipple on the cover. The needle could be a bit longer, the jet blast helps clean it, and could be closer to the doughnut when assembled I think. Next time I go for a longer needle and bigger syringe. The 2.5 was 'running dry' with no visible leakage into the lower sections, but was covered by thick black deposits.
I put it cart down in a half full juice glass with a dash of PBW and hot tap water. A minute or so pumping in and out and the glass was full of nasty looking wash water. I changed wash water and went again, then rinsed. It was clean of concentrate but the burned on part was still there. A couple of runs working up to 15 Watts had the entire doughnut glowing and covered with ash that washed easily away in the third wash. Then pumping running watter in and out to rinse then paper towels and heating at 12 Watts has it clean, dry, and ready to go. Without any real mess or clouds of burnt concentrate. It took less than five minutes, quite reasonable maintenance for all the abuse I gave it.
For your consideration.
OF
touched_prophet
New Member
I just got a 2.5 and a xcube mini by smok; what settings will achieve optimal flavor?
cheers!
cheers!
OF
Well-Known Member
I'd suggest starting out at no more than 11 Watts (as directed on the DT site) until you get to know it. No higher. Don't go above that as it can get too hot (especially when running low, which it does often holding so little).
Then, when you get a grip on loading etc, shift to TC mode (using the Nickle setting) and cautiously walk the temperature setting up from 200F or so? The best setting depends on how the mod is interpreting the temperature. I'm using 220F on my Invader Mini right now (nice because you can run both power and temperature limited at the same time, protecting the heater), guys using different mods are using other temperature settings so unless you get a solid recommendation FOR THE MOD YOU'RE USING don't assume such advice is good for you. And even then it's only a guide.
I suggest a careful reading of the material on the DC site, this is covered there well.
Take it slow, don't look for easy answers 'off the web', do careful experimenting and you'll do fine.
Regards,
OF