Been Vapin
Fringe Class
I'm back to my original 1 inch hair straightener. The 48 micron 316T screen is an absolute pleasure to work with, and should be reusable after a high proof wash. No need to even collect with this press. Self slabs.
Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless
- Thread starter darkrom
- Start date
GuyLeDuche
^ "Eat a bag of Dick's!"
So my buddy after hearing I was moving ditched out on the project while I was up at wal mart. Mad at him ruining this little adventure we were going to have I continued with it. Tomorrow I will pick up longer threaded steel so I can fit the wood between everything. I will be using the @Joel W. But I am still ordering everything to make bigger plates then I will upgrade the bottle jack. All together the press w/o plates cost me $30. I did pre puck some and man the power difference with less effort is a ton better
Edit*** need to 're drill holes for top plate also we messed up just by a bit. Good thing these plates are circular so I can keep plates matched and 're drill in a different spot.
Another edit* I need springs any idea what kind I should use to pull the ram back down?
Try to search back about 40 pages, user @2clicker built an awesome version of this press style and solved the return spring issue, I think he posted the parts list...
Would machining plates to be used with e-nail coils from aluminum or brass be fine? I have killed my hair straightener plates with this. Prior to the plates deforming I was consistently achieving 85-92% by weight of my very dialed in solvent runs using between 190°-240°F 7-25second smashes depending on strain and cure level.
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Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
Would machining plates to be used with e-nail coils from aluminum or brass be fine? I have killed my hair straightener plates with this. Prior to the plates deforming I was consistently achieving 85-92% by weight of my very dialed in solvent runs using between 190°-240°F 7-25second smashes depending on strain and cure level.
I imagine any metal hard/strong enough to survive the 'crush' would be fine, as it doesn't come into contact with your herb/rosin unless something has gone wrong.
I suppose a thin sheet stainless 'skin' might help your peace of mind?, and would be fairly easy to make.
That's what I figured regarding their hardness thanks. Hard to ask my father he's very conservative regarding cannabis. I'm gonna tell him it's for a theoretical coffee extraction machine. Then tell him my theory sucked lol. A skin would need to be affixed and add complications as well as reduce thermal conductivity so I'd probably pass on that but thanks.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to provide this 300x happy snap of that temple ball after I squished it. This rosin is outstanding.
It is a really dark looking rosin til it is under the microscope light. However, it tastes like full melt. It is creamy and so smooth and wonderful tasting.
I had a blowout on the first squish due to application of just way too much pressure... I thought I'd fucked it up but resquished through a new screen and had success with great yields.
For your consideration:
It is a really dark looking rosin til it is under the microscope light. However, it tastes like full melt. It is creamy and so smooth and wonderful tasting.
I had a blowout on the first squish due to application of just way too much pressure... I thought I'd fucked it up but resquished through a new screen and had success with great yields.
For your consideration:
Does anyone have experience putting rosin in an O pen? If so, please tell me what has worked for you, this is what I tried:
I mixed 1g at 1:1 ratio with VE's unflavored option and then heated to ~100F. It was somewhat runny at the time of filling the cart, but apparently the cooler winter ambient temperatures have made it too viscous. When I try to take a drag i get a flavor like a plastic off gas, and although I seem to get some psychoactive effects, very little seems to be burning (missing from the cart) after trying to burn though it to see how long they would last.
I know there are better ways to enjoy rosin, but I am trying to figure out this specific application. Do I need to winterize? I am unsure if waxes are present in rosin.
I mixed 1g at 1:1 ratio with VE's unflavored option and then heated to ~100F. It was somewhat runny at the time of filling the cart, but apparently the cooler winter ambient temperatures have made it too viscous. When I try to take a drag i get a flavor like a plastic off gas, and although I seem to get some psychoactive effects, very little seems to be burning (missing from the cart) after trying to burn though it to see how long they would last.
I know there are better ways to enjoy rosin, but I am trying to figure out this specific application. Do I need to winterize? I am unsure if waxes are present in rosin.
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
@ROTHKO
I've had much better results with more dilute juice in a cheap sub-ohm set up than I got from pen style e-cigs.
I know you asked for a specific o-pen application, but I really advise a rethink on the hardware, and maybe the dilution too (maybe a sub-ohm can cope with 1:1, but Ive not tried anything thicker than 2:1, which worked fine).
More vapour makes up for the 'weakness' of the juice.
My next batch will be 4 or even 5 to 1 (low tolerance user).
I've had much better results with more dilute juice in a cheap sub-ohm set up than I got from pen style e-cigs.
I know you asked for a specific o-pen application, but I really advise a rethink on the hardware, and maybe the dilution too (maybe a sub-ohm can cope with 1:1, but Ive not tried anything thicker than 2:1, which worked fine).
More vapour makes up for the 'weakness' of the juice.
My next batch will be 4 or even 5 to 1 (low tolerance user).
GuyLeDuche
^ "Eat a bag of Dick's!"
I would agree on the ratio, I use 1g/2ml ratio with ejmix to keep it fluid. I've only made a few rosin batches, but if it's really clean it works fine. If your heated mix shows any specks or junk then you may need to pre-filter the rosin before mixing it up. I took some old food grade QWISO and squished it thru unbleached coffee filters just to see and got back some nice clear shatter.. that smelled like food grade lol. But maybe filtering your oil would help with the mix.
Have you tried washing without work bag? I feel like it would help break the heads off everywhere easier. Im going to be doing some bubble runs sometime soon (I only bubble for rosin)Thanks so much for the pointer bro! I actually am really needing to do something about humidity, as RH here is above 60% for most of the year where I'm at! Room temps are frequently far far above the 55f you recommend for storage.
Ok, so I am thinking of getting myself a nice wine fridge and a high end dehumidifier to run 24/7. The plan is to keep the entire house around 40% RH, lower the possibility of any mold, then have my hash fridge (wine fridge) set at around 45-46f with lowest possible humidity (should knock double digits of percentage off of the RH of the room).
I've actually made myself a custom hash drying rig, with a glass drying surface which is heated to 105f (has it's own lab thermometer measuring temp from the bottom of the pane of glass too!) to get the moisture out a little quicker.
Gonna get a vacuum chamber and look at vac drying my hashes in the not too distant future!
Air conditioning will be enlisted to ensure that when I'm making bubble, the house is around 65f (almost all of the year it is impossible to get lower ambient temps than this even with air conditioning round these parts).
I am quite sure that humidity/stickiness has been causing me to unwittingly take along particulates with my gland heads - that coupled with my bags needing a good solvent clean on the screens (it is just not fucking possible to keep the screens completely clean unless you clean them with something that can dissolve those headies. Water won't do the job in my climate regardless of how hot or cold - especially the finer screens get clogged).
I'm looking forward to much better hash runs in future!
BTW @Hashtag46&2 I noticed that Frenchy doesn't use the work bag inside his bubble machine and just puts his material in loose. Do you do this? I am fascinated by his explanation of how the work bag inside the bubble machine simply stops the motion of the water from pulling the heads off of the material so easily! I'm gonna try this on my next trim run (which you'd better believe will become rosin!)
I also agree about as solvent cleaning the screens its the only way to get all the way clean...
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Not yet brother, probably won't get a chance to do the next run for a week or two but you betcha I'll drop you a line when I do and let you know how it went
You will not be disappointed with bubble rosin, as my last post will attest
Yeah man I have thoroughly water cleaned my screens since I had them like bubbleman recommends and it is just useless. My climate is much hotter and more humid than Bubbleman's though so this may be a contributing factor but fuck especially when you get to the 73u and lower the screens are just clogged!
cheers brother! It tastes so nice! I'd love to see how it squished if I cured the temple ball for a few months first, might try that with my next oneYour rosin is approximately the same colour as I now am.....
Egad that looks good.
Yeah definately do. If I beat you to the punch ill give you my experience. Yeah I had the same deal I even had my wife try n rinse asap as to not let the heads get really stuck but still did. Im missing my 45 bag because I did not realize amazon messed up my order till everything was submerged and its impossible for me to get completely clean and smell free enough to ask for my refund. I tried to see if I could just get my few bags but the options didnt have that so I got stuck with the 5 bag setNot yet brother, probably won't get a chance to do the next run for a week or two but you betcha I'll drop you a line when I do and let you know how it went
You will not be disappointed with bubble rosin, as my last post will attest
Yeah man I have thoroughly water cleaned my screens since I had them like bubbleman recommends and it is just useless. My climate is much hotter and more humid than Bubbleman's though so this may be a contributing factor but fuck especially when you get to the 73u and lower the screens are just clogged!
cheers brother! It tastes so nice! I'd love to see how it squished if I cured the temple ball for a few months first, might try that with my next one
sad times at least it will all end up full melt in the end.Bout to press some gg4 its extremely terpy I will post a teaser in a few.
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
..... It tastes so nice! I'd love to see how it squished if I cured the temple ball for a few months first, might try that with my next one
DAMMIT!, reading this sentence makes me feel like I've jumped on yet another pre-order that I'm going to have to wait months for
Same herb different style of pressing. First was low heat 200f dropping to about 180 by time I was done adding more psi. Second is 220 dropping down to 210 with less psi because I didnt wanna damage my rosin so didnt press as long.
Using a 12 ton bottle jack.
Sorry bout the plant material should have taken out then snapped but I was in hurry having my press sesh interrupted
*edit. I mean harm by let my rosin be near heat to long.
Using a 12 ton bottle jack.
Sorry bout the plant material should have taken out then snapped but I was in hurry having my press sesh interrupted
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Mrknotty23
Member
I know that everyone on here knows how awesome @Joel W. is but I just want to add to his reputation. He is THE MAN!!! Just incredibly helpful and kind. Also BEST customer service/support. So grateful to have found him, and everyone in the community.
Thanks for the kind words Sir!.
Again, I apologize for the USPS delay. Let me know if I can be of any more help.
Edit: And welcome to FC!
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fatty_tattoos
CBD Addict
Know its been said but hot damn you guys are all killing it.
saw the mock-up of @iDRINKBLEACH press for his friend a few pages back then noticed someone mentioned a parts list for @2clicker 's about 40 pages back so i jumped back to page 60 and am finally caught up. ton's of incredible info and at this point it seems like there is no "best press" just personal preference and $$ (and obviously starting material).
Stumbled upon these potential heaters for those with @Joel W. style plates (those with holes cut out for soldering iron heaters). Or perhaps cutting the pen part off entirely and JB welding those ends to the plates (or some ss blocks/plates if no need for iron holes) (not in the squish zone obv) so one comes away with digitally controlled temps without the added protrusion of soldering irons for about the cost of two soldering irons that joel and others have suggested. Also hopefully eliminates those leaving their irons on all day since the temps would be digitally controlled no need to dial in a temp and then leave it on for fear of losing that dialed in range.
There's also this under features: "6. The working temperature can be kept even after power off." To me that seems too good to be true slash impossible (never know with that chinese black magic) but maybe someone else can shed some light.
Perhaps someone has already looked into this and it did not work for our purposes but at first glance seems to be a very cheap, digital (possibly magical) alternative to irons.
saw the mock-up of @iDRINKBLEACH press for his friend a few pages back then noticed someone mentioned a parts list for @2clicker 's about 40 pages back so i jumped back to page 60 and am finally caught up. ton's of incredible info and at this point it seems like there is no "best press" just personal preference and $$ (and obviously starting material).
Stumbled upon these potential heaters for those with @Joel W. style plates (those with holes cut out for soldering iron heaters). Or perhaps cutting the pen part off entirely and JB welding those ends to the plates (or some ss blocks/plates if no need for iron holes) (not in the squish zone obv) so one comes away with digitally controlled temps without the added protrusion of soldering irons for about the cost of two soldering irons that joel and others have suggested. Also hopefully eliminates those leaving their irons on all day since the temps would be digitally controlled no need to dial in a temp and then leave it on for fear of losing that dialed in range.
There's also this under features: "6. The working temperature can be kept even after power off." To me that seems too good to be true slash impossible (never know with that chinese black magic) but maybe someone else can shed some light.
Perhaps someone has already looked into this and it did not work for our purposes but at first glance seems to be a very cheap, digital (possibly magical) alternative to irons.
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Been Vapin
Fringe Class
Poopsouppatrol for good laughs
https://www.instagram.com/poopsouppatrol/?hl=en
Then DabLogic supposedly makes some of the best stuff for sale legally in the USA.
https://www.instagram.com/dablogic/
ictus
Well-Known Member
Hey guys,
I've been messin around with this using scraps I found around the garage. Top piece of my flower grinder pressed up against a random piece of flat cylinder. Heated up both on a stove top until ~280 and then used some magnets embedded in the Irwin clamps to secure them to the clamp once up to temp.
I got 14% last time doing this but unfortunately warped my grinder top to the point it barely sprins now (doh!) so I have decided to try to order some better 'plates'.
Sadly that was before I found this thread (been away from FC for a while) so I didn't even know what to call the 'plates' I was looking for so I ended up just search for round bar steel stock. Here is what I ended up ordering (2x):
2.5" 1018 Cold Finish Mild Steel Round Bar
0.50 inches
I just got them in and I'm not sure why I was expecting different but they aren't exactly machined equality. The faces seem flat but they are out of planar by a little bit (maybe 1mm?)
Is being out of parallel going to make these useless without painstakingly lapping them flat somehow?
I've been messin around with this using scraps I found around the garage. Top piece of my flower grinder pressed up against a random piece of flat cylinder. Heated up both on a stove top until ~280 and then used some magnets embedded in the Irwin clamps to secure them to the clamp once up to temp.
I got 14% last time doing this but unfortunately warped my grinder top to the point it barely sprins now (doh!) so I have decided to try to order some better 'plates'.
Sadly that was before I found this thread (been away from FC for a while) so I didn't even know what to call the 'plates' I was looking for so I ended up just search for round bar steel stock. Here is what I ended up ordering (2x):
2.5" 1018 Cold Finish Mild Steel Round Bar
0.50 inches
I just got them in and I'm not sure why I was expecting different but they aren't exactly machined equality. The faces seem flat but they are out of planar by a little bit (maybe 1mm?)
Is being out of parallel going to make these useless without painstakingly lapping them flat somehow?
hektik8625
Well-Known Member
Man I'm interested on whats is inside those heat pens... =)
I do not think the max temp (200c) is hot enough to get the blocks up to squish temps, with only 20 watts of power behind them.
Mrknotty23
Member
Hello folks!. I was wondering if some people would mind sharing their preferable squish temp for dry sift. Been playing around between 150F-200F. However I'm not really noticing a very drastic change in color. I know that hash/dry sift rosin tends to be darker anyway then flower rosin, but just trying to get it a little less dark. I'm seriously in love with my new plates from @Joel W. They are so badass!!!