DIY Bulli Vaporizer
- Thread starter Pipes
- Start date
Well I think I've become obsessed lol. So I decided to use a different platform other then bulli just because I'm anxious and I have to wait a while for my bulli order.
I'll be getting a turbo v2 and a royal hunter in the meantime. I have also ordered the 75w evic mini from a US vendor lol.
What's nice about both of these is that there is already some type of 1st screen method built into the rda. I'm pretty sure I'll MOD both screens.
http://imgur.com/a/RMwQA
The absolute easiest mod would be if the Arizer air glass stem fit direct on the top and add orings for the seal (crossing fingers) I could also drill out that mouthpiece wider maybe.
The next best would be if I had a dome screen for the Arizer desktop unit. And I think the current mouthpiece is wide enough for it to fit hopefully. The only problem is that the basket screen doesn't have a top. So I would need to put another screen in the mouthpiece. But now that would be 3 screens...... Hmmmmm
Imag 3 ibullet
http://imgur.com/SMjw0qO
So I need to figure out how to make these titanium coils you guys are using. 22 guage correct?? I've never touched a coil before lol. Tips? Or I can pay if someone can build me one.
I'll be getting a turbo v2 and a royal hunter in the meantime. I have also ordered the 75w evic mini from a US vendor lol.
What's nice about both of these is that there is already some type of 1st screen method built into the rda. I'm pretty sure I'll MOD both screens.
http://imgur.com/a/RMwQA
The absolute easiest mod would be if the Arizer air glass stem fit direct on the top and add orings for the seal (crossing fingers) I could also drill out that mouthpiece wider maybe.
The next best would be if I had a dome screen for the Arizer desktop unit. And I think the current mouthpiece is wide enough for it to fit hopefully. The only problem is that the basket screen doesn't have a top. So I would need to put another screen in the mouthpiece. But now that would be 3 screens...... Hmmmmm
Imag 3 ibullet
http://imgur.com/SMjw0qO
So I need to figure out how to make these titanium coils you guys are using. 22 guage correct?? I've never touched a coil before lol. Tips? Or I can pay if someone can build me one.
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where i can get that screen:
http://imgur.com/SMjw0qO
where i can get that screen:http://imgur.com/SMjw0qO
I'm not sure honestly. I'm thinking China. The flowermate has a dry herb cartridge but it's too thick
Not exactly the same but vapexhale has basket screens. http://www.vapexhale.com/collections/accessories/products/herb-baskets-4-pack
@enjiatt .22 gauge yes. I really can't help beyond that as I'm just figuring this out myself. @Pipes is the man with the plan but I know he is busy with work too. @xenodius too, he might be your best bet at the moment.
@enjiatt .22 gauge yes. I really can't help beyond that as I'm just figuring this out myself. @Pipes is the man with the plan but I know he is busy with work too. @xenodius too, he might be your best bet at the moment.
yes i already knew about this one , the problem is right now i can only buy at amazon , i order the most big screen i could find and amazon and will try that but i have plan to get the vapexhale screen from ebay with the help of a friend, thanks for the suggestion.
Lovin seeing this type of initiative. Fun stuff. Little concerned about the diameter though as never tested.Well I think I've become obsessed lol. So I decided to use a different platform other then bulli just because I'm anxious and I have to wait a while for my bulli order.
I'll be getting a turbo v2 and a royal hunter in the meantime. I have also ordered the 75w evic mini from a US vendor lol.
What's nice about both of these is that there is already some type of 1st screen method built into the rda. I'm pretty sure I'll MOD both screens.
http://imgur.com/a/RMwQA
The absolute easiest mod would be if the Arizer air glass stem fit direct on the top and add orings for the seal (crossing fingers) I could also drill out that mouthpiece wider maybe.
The next best would be if I had a dome screen for the Arizer desktop unit. And I think the current mouthpiece is wide enough for it to fit hopefully. The only problem is that the basket screen doesn't have a top. So I would need to put another screen in the mouthpiece. But now that would be 3 screens...... Hmmmmm
Imag 3 ibullet
http://imgur.com/SMjw0qO
So I need to figure out how to make these titanium coils you guys are using. 22 guage correct?? I've never touched a coil before lol. Tips? Or I can pay if someone can build me one.
An alternative base unit might be this puppy for under $12. Again I never tested but it caught my eye. Just remove the guts and install a couple screens. It has that magic 14mm diameter which I know works. As for the ti coils, I posted the method a page or 2 back.
Also guys, I'm getting close to a DIY device which is made pretty much from scratch without depending on a base unit. Just waiting on a couple items to come in to complete the needed materials. Once this prophecy come to life I will start a new thread simply called "The Project". The idea is that anyone getting into making can make a few and pass on the technique to others. It's the kind of unit that if you make one you may as well make 10+ because you will already have most of the needed parts. All of which are open source materials. End result is the maker gets a couple bucks for their efforts and the community gets a great vape at reasonable pricing. A win/win if you ask me.
I know, me bad for teasing.....
Gator
Active Member
I have also become obssed with this idea! So much so, I had to register and come along for the journey!
I would like to build my own from an rda, but now you speak of custom open source pieces, I cant wait to see what comes to light.
So far my idea is to use this rda
https://m.fasttech.com/products/0/10005100/1899800-igo-w8-styled-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer
Drill out the top piece to fit a glass stem, that will then push down over the post. The coil will fill up most of the glass stem. Then just push a arizer air mouth piece into the glass stem just above the coil.
I just don't know where to find a 4cm tall glass stem that will fit arizer air convection stem.
I would like to build my own from an rda, but now you speak of custom open source pieces, I cant wait to see what comes to light.
So far my idea is to use this rda
https://m.fasttech.com/products/0/10005100/1899800-igo-w8-styled-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer
Drill out the top piece to fit a glass stem, that will then push down over the post. The coil will fill up most of the glass stem. Then just push a arizer air mouth piece into the glass stem just above the coil.
I just don't know where to find a 4cm tall glass stem that will fit arizer air convection stem.
StonerSloth
cui bono?
Pipes - First let me say awesome work! You have done an awesome job and created what looks like a very awesome vaporizer through your several years of trial and error. It looks like it has been a very fun and very expensive journey! And I thank you for letting the community benefit from it!
I am also getting ready to build my copycat DIY Bulli A2TM Build. I have everything in hand except the Ti wire - just waiting on UPS for that.....
What is your experience with air holes on the Bulli? Do you have a recommended number of holes, hole diameter, and location for the Bulli base? I'm assuming I want them as low as possible?
Thanks again.
I am also getting ready to build my copycat DIY Bulli A2TM Build. I have everything in hand except the Ti wire - just waiting on UPS for that.....
What is your experience with air holes on the Bulli? Do you have a recommended number of holes, hole diameter, and location for the Bulli base? I'm assuming I want them as low as possible?
Thanks again.
Well, you are very welcome! It has been a fun ride.
Good question about the intake holes. First time that has come up. I have 2 holes 5/64" placed 180 degrees apart along the middle grooved ring. Ideally, the holes should end up between the terminal posts when screwed down. To do this mark the base between the screws with a marker. Screw the mid section on and mark it such as the marks line up with the previously marked base.
Now the holes will line up when done.
I have one unit with the one hole done by factory so it reside on the upper groove. Honestly, don't notice any difference so not a show stopper if off.
Hope this helps and welcome to the club!!
I've been continuing some experimentation and found that a pair of stovetop coils heats up faster, and cooks a little more evenly than the coils I have been building: http://i.imgur.com/NWppJna.jpg There's a fraction of a mm clearance on all sides, it introduces a lot of contact area to the incoming air and with two passes on the coil it seems to have slightly more efficient heat transfer. I do not preheat at all, it's pushing ~5.0 to 5.3 volts at 180C/60 joules on my Sig 150TC. I used 22ga titanium and the coil resistance is .232 ohms. I have used this coil up to 190C (Nickel) without combustion, but the clouds are too thick for reasonable efficiency!! 
It's a modest improvement but I believe an improvement nonetheless. Best part is that anyone with small needlenose and some patience can build one.
I have noticed that lung volume necessitates very different techniques for different people-- my buddy and I can rocket up with a few hits each, but his GF has quite a bit less lung volume than either of us (despite being a kickass rugby player) and we had to turn the joules way down, and have her draw WAY more slowly at first to get the herb to temp.... perhaps an even more restricted airflow would help for her. Next time, we'll try overfilling the bubbler and see if that helps her. I've also thought about making a deliberately restricted mouthpiece to swap out but we'll see if that's necessary.
I've been trying to think about the best way to use this atomizer with a waterpipe, preferably something that I can leave on a tabletop and use one-handed, but now I am considering using Sugru to make an adapter (or at least a mould for a higher-temp cast adapter) for something like this: http://dabuddhavaporizer.com/index....lass/glycerin-cooling/saturn-vapor-tamer.html
The best part about that vapor tamer is that even if I had a lot of vapor condensation due to drawing through frozen glass, I could easily reclaim it since it's never mixed with water. Even at room temp I think 20" of glass, with or without a glycerin bath, would be PLENTY to make the vapor more than tolerable. 1" out of the bowl though, it's pretty hot. We'll see. For now, my mason bubbler and whip are doing fine, I just want to try and make it even more convenient. There's always room for improvement...
It's a modest improvement but I believe an improvement nonetheless. Best part is that anyone with small needlenose and some patience can build one.I have noticed that lung volume necessitates very different techniques for different people-- my buddy and I can rocket up with a few hits each, but his GF has quite a bit less lung volume than either of us (despite being a kickass rugby player) and we had to turn the joules way down, and have her draw WAY more slowly at first to get the herb to temp.... perhaps an even more restricted airflow would help for her. Next time, we'll try overfilling the bubbler and see if that helps her. I've also thought about making a deliberately restricted mouthpiece to swap out but we'll see if that's necessary.
I've been trying to think about the best way to use this atomizer with a waterpipe, preferably something that I can leave on a tabletop and use one-handed, but now I am considering using Sugru to make an adapter (or at least a mould for a higher-temp cast adapter) for something like this: http://dabuddhavaporizer.com/index....lass/glycerin-cooling/saturn-vapor-tamer.html
The best part about that vapor tamer is that even if I had a lot of vapor condensation due to drawing through frozen glass, I could easily reclaim it since it's never mixed with water. Even at room temp I think 20" of glass, with or without a glycerin bath, would be PLENTY to make the vapor more than tolerable. 1" out of the bowl though, it's pretty hot. We'll see. For now, my mason bubbler and whip are doing fine, I just want to try and make it even more convenient. There's always room for improvement...
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WakeAndVape
VapeLife X
This thread excites me. I wish there was a finished version I could purchase... 
Tomorrow is going to be very fun.
Everything I need should be here. I'll be using the 22 gauge titanium wire for this build.
I'm hoping the Arizer air stems fit perfectly but if not I have a much better and much cheaper solution
I'm confused on how to set up the coils. Could anyone help me in any way with that. Maybe point me to a tutorial that would be good for a build like this. I've never built one before so try and be patient lol.
I feel like @Pipes and @xenodius are using two different coil builds.
(edit: never mind the coil thing. I should have refreshed)
Everything I need should be here. I'll be using the 22 gauge titanium wire for this build.
I'm hoping the Arizer air stems fit perfectly but if not I have a much better and much cheaper solution
I'm confused on how to set up the coils. Could anyone help me in any way with that. Maybe point me to a tutorial that would be good for a build like this. I've never built one before so try and be patient lol.
I feel like @Pipes and @xenodius are using two different coil builds.
(edit: never mind the coil thing. I should have refreshed)
The method I've been using to make the coils is in this post. With exception of material used, which is now 22 gauge Ti at around .3 ohms. @xenodius is trying a different coil now and sounds like a good one as well. I had tried a single stove top type before but never a double. Good stuff.
I think I may try a 22 GA ti twisted stove top method. So one thing I'm noticing is that The ultimate goal is to have as much convection as possible. I'm wondering if putting the coils right at the air vents For the rdas I'm using is the best bet to go. Any thoughts?? Or is this something obvious that I missed lol
I think that I'd get more even heating with your coil Pipes if I had put more outer loops and fewer inner loops-- I think I made a center hotspot because of that. The twisted coil you sent me is still the best one I have, I actually made a 4-holed cover that works great with it. 
But I'm seriously considering attempting a triple/quad stovetop with twisted wire and double covers... for a double stovetop single 22ga is definitely preferred. YMMV! The stovetops are definitely harder to mount, and would be harder to wind with twisted wire. Any difference between the two styles is pretty marginal but I prefer the stovetops.
It seems even heating is most important because that lets you bring the whole bowl closer to the combustion line.
I'm not sure, but I suspect that a multi-stovetop coil might allow the mod to compensate for cooling at the lower coils, since it detects and heats the entire coil as one unit; cooling the lower stovetop will increase power to the upper stovetop.
I may have to get into some wood if I'm going to use a vapor tamer. It's going to be heavy and will need something to support it and that might as well be wood because wood is pretty! =) Plus it'd give me a way to make a clip attachment to hold it on.
But I'm seriously considering attempting a triple/quad stovetop with twisted wire and double covers... for a double stovetop single 22ga is definitely preferred. YMMV! The stovetops are definitely harder to mount, and would be harder to wind with twisted wire. Any difference between the two styles is pretty marginal but I prefer the stovetops.It seems even heating is most important because that lets you bring the whole bowl closer to the combustion line.
I'm not sure, but I suspect that a multi-stovetop coil might allow the mod to compensate for cooling at the lower coils, since it detects and heats the entire coil as one unit; cooling the lower stovetop will increase power to the upper stovetop.
I may have to get into some wood if I'm going to use a vapor tamer. It's going to be heavy and will need something to support it and that might as well be wood because wood is pretty! =) Plus it'd give me a way to make a clip attachment to hold it on.
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I think many coil types will work fine. Figure the key is to fill the oven up as evenly spaced as possible. Making air pockets as uniform as possible. Agreed fine tuning the inner wrap verses the outer winding is kinda difficult to hit perfectly. I was thinking a little larger diameter inner wind making it closer to the outer..? Need a thinner walled jig for making.
Fun stuff and the fine tuning is going to never end...lol
The outer wooden jacket IMO is a must have. Will be a necessary piece in "The Project".
Here is a concept picture for the outer shell of The Project.
Basically, a 5/8" hole in doweling but stops short with a 14mm hole in one end. A wack of #113 High temp O rings and a 5/8" screen.
To install, the upper O rings are inserted in the jacket and the bottom rings on the Project (or Bull), then shell can be pushed onto the atomizer. For this to work with the Bull, the bottom O rings need to be thicker or substituted with some silicon tubing...? The atomizer will stop at the screen leaving the upper 3 O rings to hold the stem.
Fun stuff and the fine tuning is going to never end...lol
The outer wooden jacket IMO is a must have. Will be a necessary piece in "The Project".
Here is a concept picture for the outer shell of The Project.
Basically, a 5/8" hole in doweling but stops short with a 14mm hole in one end. A wack of #113 High temp O rings and a 5/8" screen.
To install, the upper O rings are inserted in the jacket and the bottom rings on the Project (or Bull), then shell can be pushed onto the atomizer. For this to work with the Bull, the bottom O rings need to be thicker or substituted with some silicon tubing...? The atomizer will stop at the screen leaving the upper 3 O rings to hold the stem.
StonerSloth
cui bono?
Are you planning on creating notches in the dowel to prevent the o-rings from sliding up and down?
I've got to say that this stovetop coil build looks a lot less intimidating than the beast @Pipes has come up with. But I guess with the right jig anything is possible... I will come up with something.
I've got my holes drilled, my screens installed, and my batteries charged. Just waiting on some Ti wire.....
As far as mating with glass - I couldn't help but notice the size and shape of these...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321777942248
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321903861698
I think they may be worth a shot..
I've got to say that this stovetop coil build looks a lot less intimidating than the beast @Pipes has come up with. But I guess with the right jig anything is possible... I will come up with something.
I've got my holes drilled, my screens installed, and my batteries charged. Just waiting on some Ti wire.....
As far as mating with glass - I couldn't help but notice the size and shape of these...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321777942248
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321903861698
I think they may be worth a shot..
Originally, yes, that was my thinking. But always go for simpler is better. (And easier) The only needed hold down is the top lip. As the force will always be a downward push, no need for a lowest restraint. The order of assembly is important as I noted above. Inserting the first 3 followed by a screen, which is held there between the rings, followed by a couple more rings. The lower rings will be placed on the atomizer so the assembly will just push downward. Once assembled there is no reason to take apart again except for the rare cleaning. Also note the top of atomizer will also rest against the screen. Thus acting as a downward lip for the top three O rings.
The inside of the shell which contacts the top three O rings might need to be widened slightly pending on how tight the stem is. A good starting point is 5/8" as fits nice and tight for the lower portion of atomizer which is 14mm. A dremel sander cylinder makes this adjustment a breeze.
my mod was suppose to come in today and it didnt :-( should come tomorrow if the weather isnt crazy which it is. ugh.
Anyways the royal hunter one probably isnt going to work best for this because not much would fit.
So far with fitment the Turbo v2 is doing the job but you have to take out the plastic turbo thing because I am very sure it will melt. Im trying to make a one hitter vape!!!! but lets see how it goes in actual practice.
http://imgur.com/a/Pp9dw
Anyways the royal hunter one probably isnt going to work best for this because not much would fit.
So far with fitment the Turbo v2 is doing the job but you have to take out the plastic turbo thing because I am very sure it will melt. Im trying to make a one hitter vape!!!! but lets see how it goes in actual practice.
http://imgur.com/a/Pp9dw
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