Gear Best Clearo for Pure Gold?

DMPesso said:

Yup I figured they were the same the eurekas hit amazing and I tested them at 1.8 ohms which would explain the dense clouds. It seems we need 1.8 or lower ohms for uncut oil. Hence why the gentleman has been working for me, you should try it. But I'm gonna pull the trigger on the k1 after what notorious just confirmed because the gold drop he put in uncut is the same as what we get. Makes sense it would work, 1.8 ohms and ceramic should wick perfectly ! By the way I'm a guy lol. And out of curiousity if you don't mind sharing what are you paying for a gram of pure gold? I'm getting the ganja gold right now for $80 but I want a different brand already. For what it's worth even though it's different absolute xtracts was one of the strongest brands I ever tried and that was going for 60 for .5 cart out here! On a side note I put some of the honey oil in a source orb double ceramic coil and the ceramic soaked it up very nicely and I got dab sized clouds. I'm gonna make the assumption and say ceramic should be a win since it absorbs the oil. I'm gonna order a few k1s and report back

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i spend like 80 for the pure gold (which is nearly double what it actually costs in california) and i spend anywhere from 40-60 for whatever other carts I can get... was getting eurekas for a while for 60 then those went away... got some dank tanks for 40 then those went away.... got some tribals for 60 and those were the shit and then those dried up too.... the only consistent thing i get is that pure gold and it's so cost prohibitively expensive I am like scared shitless to try new equipment or I'm out like 80 bucks or stuck trying to syringe up the think pure gold and move it to another cart which results in some loss its just a headache out here in the east man.... so you gonna bail on the K1 now cause of the cotton? I am actually surprised it's cotton figured everybody moved away from that to silica if not ceramic... maybe i'll check out a gentlemen's product... you seem to prefer to saboteur over v2 any reason why?

I've heard someone mention nichrome and someone else mention ceramic...and someone else mention cotton for the K1.

Just so we are on the same page, what exactly is it made of. Anyone have a teardown pic?

It's not like those donut ceramic atomizers is it? Edit.

DMPesso said:

Why is it so hard to find a good cart that gives nice clouds with uncut oil?

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GIANT clouds can be produced vaping Pure Gold in Joyetech's eRoll:

http://www.joyetech.com/product/eroll-starter-kit/

zebra said:

i spend like 80 for the pure gold (which is nearly double what it actually costs in california) and i spend anywhere from 40-60 for whatever other carts I can get... was getting eurekas for a while for 60 then those went away... got some dank tanks for 40 then those went away.... got some tribals for 60 and those were the shit and then those dried up too.... the only consistent thing i get is that pure gold and it's so cost prohibitively expensive I am like scared shitless to try new equipment or I'm out like 80 bucks or stuck trying to syringe up the think pure gold and move it to another cart which results in some loss its just a headache out here in the east man.... so you gonna bail on the K1 now cause of the cotton? I am actually surprised it's cotton figured everybody moved away from that to silica if not ceramic... maybe i'll check out a gentlemen's product... you seem to prefer to saboteur over v2 any reason why?

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$80 isn't bad. I think 60 for eureka is worse because that's over double the price for the .5. Pure gold in Cali is around $50 I think. But anyway yea I bailed on them not trying to use cotton. No reason I prefer the saboteur I just haven't used the v2 I was gonna get the mega but then the saboteur says made for more runny oils so I chose that because it will last longer. Those v2 coils are meant for wax and crumbles and those type of concentrates because it seems the v2 would leak with a runny concentrate otherwise they wouldn't have made the saboteur I'm assuming. I use co2 and honey oil.

Nube Scrutator said:

GIANT clouds can be produced vaping Pure Gold in Joyetech's eRoll:

http://www.joyetech.com/product/eroll-starter-kit/

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What kind of heating element do they use and if your using it with oil in the cartridge and you remove the heater does oil remain on it? I was considering the eroll for the reviews and convenience but then when I saw its 2.4 ohms I figured no way it can burn pure uncut honey oil. It's only like 90mah and I think 3.7 v which isn't important but it doesn't get hot enough I believe since you can't use less then 2.4 ohms I can't imagine it getting as hot as a 1.8 ohm cart or something like that. It seems as if the wick on the eroll is cotton? I guess cotton is good for oil then? Read this:



Joyetech does not recommend 1.7ohm for the eRoll because of the smaller battery capacity it will reduce time between charges. Also, the 1.7ohm run at a hotter temp heating the atomizer tube hotter where the cigarette is held and may cause you to burn yourself. Joyetech recommends using the 2.4ohm and this is the resistance of the atomizers that come with the eRoll kit.

• Option 1.7ohm: Low Resistace ones at approx. 1.7 ohms. They burn hotter and produce more vapor but use additional battery power and last less time then normal resistance.
• Option 2.4ohm: Standard Resistace ones at approx. 2.5 ohms. They they offer better battery life, longer life span, decent vapor and great taste.

Nube Scrutator said:

GIANT clouds can be produced vaping Pure Gold in Joyetech's eRoll:

http://www.joyetech.com/product/eroll-starter-kit/

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How much gold can you fill each time anyway? Looks very small. .3?

DMPesso said:

What kind of heating element do they use and if your using it with oil in the cartridge and you remove the heater does oil remain on it? I was considering the eroll for the reviews and convenience but then when I saw its 2.4 ohms I figured no way it can burn pure uncut honey oil. It's only like 90mah and I think 3.7 v which isn't important but it doesn't get hot enough I believe since you can't use less then 2.4 ohms I can't imagine it getting as hot as a 1.8 ohm cart or something like that. It seems as if the wick on the eroll is cotton? I guess cotton is good for oil then? Read this:



Joyetech does not recommend 1.7ohm for the eRoll because of the smaller battery capacity it will reduce time between charges. Also, the 1.7ohm run at a hotter temp heating the atomizer tube hotter where the cigarette is held and may cause you to burn yourself. Joyetech recommends using the 2.4ohm and this is the resistance of the atomizers that come with the eRoll kit.

• Option 1.7ohm: Low Resistace ones at approx. 1.7 ohms. They burn hotter and produce more vapor but use additional battery power and last less time then normal resistance.
• Option 2.4ohm: Standard Resistace ones at approx. 2.5 ohms. They they offer better battery life, longer life span, decent vapor and great taste.

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The eroll performs great with Pure Gold, not sure about others.

Yes when you remove a tank some oil will remain in the atomizer. However you can turn it upside down for a while to drain it into the tank before removing.

I prefer 2.4 ohms over the 1.7 ohms, I have both atomizers. 2.4 is a bit cooler and produces good enough vapor for me. I've never had a problem with heat or burning myself with 1.7s. eRoll is designed for chain smokers so that heat warning applies to folks who take multiple draws in a row IMO.

The tank holds almost an entire ampule, about .4g. (You can load the entire Pure Gold ampule if you let the atomizer absorb some, then load the remaining oil into the tank.)

The atomizers appear to have a silica wick and nichrome wire.

Nube Scrutator said:

The eroll performs great with Pure Gold, not sure about others.

Yes when you remove a tank some oil will remain in the atomizer. However you can turn it upside down for a while to drain it into the tank before removing.

I prefer 2.4 ohms over the 1.7 ohms, I have both atomizers. 2.4 is a bit cooler and produces good enough vapor for me. I've never had a problem with heat or burning myself with 1.7s. eRoll is designed for chain smokers so that heat warning applies to folks who take multiple draws in a row IMO.

The tank holds almost an entire ampule, about .4g. (You can load the entire Pure Gold ampule if you let the atomizer absorb some, then load the remaining oil into the tank.)

The atomizers appear to have a silica wick and nichrome wire.

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The eroll supposedly isn't made anymore and is discontinued so I might go with the ego cc tank since it just screws onto my c twist battery and its a clearomizer

@GuyLeDuche, @zebra, @Haywood, @fernand

I joined this forum just to get your guys input! I too have been experimenting over the past couple of months trying to find the right balance of hardware and viscosity (I don't have access to PG, so I mix shatter w/ Vapeur Extract).

I think I may have found our holy grail, but after how much this adventure has already cost me in time and money, I am not eager to invest another $30+ unless some others educated in this quest thought it seemed promising...

Start with an original Aspire Atlantis.
Swap the Atlantis coil for a 1.8ohm Aspire Triton coil (they are compatible, I have already confirmed)








Why? Well the Triton is a Subohm Tank, so the wicking holes on the Triton are much larger than the wicking holes on pretty much every other coil that's been discussed on this thread thus far. For comparison, look at this pic:



From left to right, Aspire BVC (the same coil used in both the K1 and the Aerotank), the Nautilus BVC atomizer, Nautilus Atlantis atomizer. It's a SIGNIFICANT difference.

The Triton coils have similar wicking hole sizes as the Atlantis, but with the added bonus of coming in 1.8ohm coils, so my thought is you should be able to fire these superior wicking Triton coils at a low enough wattage to get a good steady pull without overheating, pulsing, or waiting around for the wick to re-moisten after every pull.

The coils seem to sit nicely recessed in the base, so as to be as efficient with product as possible (as compared to some clearos where the wicking holes are a couple millimeters above the base).

You could just get the Triton, but I've read a fair amount of complaints about it leaking, and I don't want the added capacity. The original Atlantis holds 2ml which is still about 0.5ml than I would prefer.

Like I said, I signed up for this forum just hear your guys' thoughts on this setup, so what have ye to say???

redcon said:

@GuyLeDuche, @zebra, @Haywood, @fernand

I joined this forum just to get your guys input! I too have been experimenting over the past couple of months trying to find the right balance of hardware and viscosity (I don't have access to PG, so I mix shatter w/ Vapeur Extract).

I think I may have found our holy grail, but after how much this adventure has already cost me in time and money, I am not eager to invest another $30+ unless some others educated in this quest thought it seemed promising...

Start with an original Aspire Atlantis.
Swap the Atlantis coil for a 1.8ohm Aspire Triton coil (they are compatible, I have already confirmed)

Why? Well the Triton is a Subohm Tank, so the wicking holes on the Triton are much larger than the wicking holes on pretty much every other coil that's been discussed on this thread thus far. For comparison, look at this pic:

From left to right, Aspire BVC (the same coil used in both the K1 and the Aerotank), the Nautilus BVC atomizer, Nautilus Atlantis atomizer. It's a SIGNIFICANT difference.

The Triton coils have similar wicking hole sizes as the Atlantis, but with the added bonus of coming in 1.8ohm coils, so my thought is you should be able to fire these superior wicking Triton coils at a low enough wattage to get a good steady pull without overheating, pulsing, or waiting around for the wick to re-moisten after every pull.

The coils seem to sit nicely recessed in the base, so as to be as efficient with product as possible (as compared to some clearos where the wicking holes are a couple millimeters above the base).

You could just get the Triton, but I've read a fair amount of complaints about it leaking, and I don't want the added capacity. The original Atlantis holds 2ml which is still about 0.5ml than I would prefer.

Like I said, I signed up for this forum just hear your guys' thoughts on this setup, so what have ye to say???

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It looks like a solid idea to me. My nephew has the Atlantis for ecig use and I know it pulls a ton of fluid thru that huge coil and giant holes Seems like a really good coil design, though I'm not a mod user so I know nothing about sub-ohm gear and how to use it.
Personally I've settled nicely into the K1, it's not perfect but for me it's better than spending more money lol. I'd love to hear if someone does try that combo, I'm willing to jump a bandwagon, just maybe not blaze the trail

@redcon: I've been pretty happy with the Aerotank Mini with the VOCC atty's (Vertical Coil, Organic Cotton) @ 1.8Ω.

Never had a flow problem, or dry hits, though there is a bit of a gurgle problem due to condensate running back down the air path in the center. Since the coil is vertical, one can push a toothpick through the air hole from bottom to top and "remove" the bit of PG that's causing the gurgle if one is bothered by it. I still run at 4 to 6 watts, which is plenty for me.

Pure Gold is considerably thicker than pure VG, and I'm running Puer Gold through the tinier holes in a Kanger VOCC atty without any wicking problems, what have you been using that is less than satisfying to you:

I think I may have found our holy grail, but after how much this adventure has already cost me in time and money, I am not eager to invest another $30+ unless some others educated in this quest thought it seemed promising...

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Glad to see people came back to this thread. After much research I would like to confirm the best tank for any oil that moves when you tilt it upside down like pure gold or most honey oil. The kanger protank 2 mini with 1.8 ohm coils. Those large silica wicks will absorb all the oil without any issues similar to how the sapphire and buddy carts absorb them so well because the silica wick is so large. Refer to this link from the experts at w9.

http://www.w9tech.com/blog/essential-oil-and-hash-oil-vaporizer/

I am sure the triton coils will work great on an aspire but it's already hard to find the original Atlantis because they don't make it anymore. Those large wicking holes would definitely be better then the k1 and the rest with cotton coils. But common sense would lead you to believe cotton won't absorb THICK oils better then silica. For ejuice yes but silica definitely is above cotton with viscous oils. (someone please correct me if I'm wrong but this has been my experience since that's why the pre filled eureka and absolute carts with large silica wicks work so well, they absorb the oil excellently). Mind you I am talking about co2 oil and honey oil uncut. For you people mixing shatter with some type of thinner I am sure can have even better results with cotton if your end product is more runny but for uncut oils imo silica > cotton.

@Haywood

I've been using anywhere from about a 1:1 to 2:1 ratio of Vapeur Extract to material. So far I've tried:

• Nautilus Mini -- worked for a couple of days, went out of town for a few days, and when I got back was getting a nasty taste or dry hits, might be worth pursuing further except it's larger capacity than I"d care for so it's not ideal anyways

• G-hit PE Oil Atomizer - same design as your sapphires/buds, worked alright for a day or two (albeit with the problems are noted previously in this thread), but I really couldn't get a strong enough vape to get the effects I would like without causing nasty hits

• Kangertech Genitank - essentially a Protank w/ airflow, this seemed to work great for the evening I first filled it, left it on my dresser for a couple of hours, and promptly came back to find all my product emptied in a depressing pool on my dresser. However, I have been using it with a new coil and a some 50/50 nic juice (no concentrate) for the past day without any issue so we'll see if maybe it was just a bad coil

This all said, I am newish to the extract world and previously have only used combustion methods w/ extracts, so sometimes it is hard for me to know if it's the wick tasting nasty or if that's just how the oil tastes when vaped.

I know I can get prefilled sapphires that I believe to be filled w/ CO2 or bho and they taste delicious, entirely different than the stuff I mix up.

The prefillieds come in sapphire/bud carts and are a rich amber color that is transparent and has the same super thick honey-like consistency throughout the liquid, whereas the stuff I mix tends to be a cloudier yellow or yellow w/ green tint and a more gel like consistency, if that makes sense.

For example, with the prefilleds all of the liquid will eventually all pool wherever gravity leads it, whereas with the stuff I mix up about 80% of it will get wicked but around 20% is prone to sticking to parts of the tank, requiring a little bit of assistance either by applying outside heat, or occasionally pushing the stuck bits of liquid down with a syringe or poker.

The times i have used closer to a 2:1 ratio of mix to material to get a thinner, more e-juice like viscosity, I find that the mix is too dilluted for my liking. When I do a 1:1 mix I get something that is potent enough, but I doesn't seem to feed well enough. That's why I don't understand how people are making these setups work with a 0.5 to 1 ratio.

GuyLeDuche said:

Honestly no, I haven't used Pure Gold in it, but I'm sure it would work. I mainly use co2 oil mixed with EJMix these days, and for some reason the co2 (even at 2:1 mix) stays pretty thick but seems to wick fine. I do find I need to saturate the coil's inner wick before use, then the process of vaping that oil off will warm and feed the tank oil. If I put in a clean coil, then fill the tank and assemble, there's about a 50/50 chance the oil won't fully wick just sitting.
I use a syringe to pull up my mix, then before filling the tank I poke the blunt tip into the 4 holes in the coil (careful not to damage it) and just squeeze a drop into each. Then I squeeze 1-2 more drops down the top hole, off to the side but careful not to get caught up in the actual coil element inside. This and some gentle priming gets the coil hot enough to warm the oil and feed it into the inner wick.

So really I can't see a reason why PG wouldn't work, I'm sure it's not thicker than my mix. If my tank has been sitting unused the oil barely moves when I tip it over lol.

Be sure to post back if you try, we're all adding to the public database

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@GuyLeDuche, I'm beginning to wonder if I'm just not mixing this down thin enough and/or am having too high of hopes for the potency of a reliably feeding mix.

I see you say you are using up to a 2:1 ratio w/ CO2 oil, but like I said I am new to extracts so I'm not sure of the consistencies/viscosity of of all the different extract offerings.

The stuff I am working with I keep refrigerated. It has a darker glass like appearance when it comes out of the refrigerator, and crumbles/breaks cleanly when cold, but once it warms up it becomes more taffy like, and when heated down to liquid it takes on a golden liquid appearance.

What ratio would you recommend I use?

I smoke heavily. As in, wake up and smoke before work, and go through an eighth of flowers every couple days, etc. Should I be able to achieve a ratio/rig combination that can get me feeling nice off of five or six puffs?

redcon said:

@GuyLeDuche, I'm beginning to wonder if I'm just not mixing this down thin enough and/or am having too high of hopes for the potency of a reliably feeding mix.

I see you say you are using up to a 2:1 ratio w/ CO2 oil, but like I said I am new to extracts so I'm not sure of the consistencies/viscosity of of all the different extract offerings.

The stuff I am working with I keep refrigerated. It has a darker glass like appearance when it comes out of the refrigerator, and crumbles/breaks cleanly when cold, but once it warms up it becomes more taffy like, and when heated down to liquid it takes on a golden liquid appearance.

What ratio would you recommend I use?

I smoke heavily. As in, wake up and smoke before work, and go through an eighth of flowers every couple days, etc. Should I be able to achieve a ratio/rig combination that can get me feeling nice off of five or six puffs?

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I guess it depends on how heavy a smoker you are.

I'm a heavy dabber. I use ejmix to mix at ratios of 1.5 wax to 1. It leaves something to be desired still. Like I could use something more powerful. My setup is mainly o.pen cartridges with an istick 50w. I get better clouds out of the protank mini 2 but for some reason don't fill it as much. It has leaked in the past but that was when I was trying to run pure uncut oil.

Seeing someone suggest the K1 for pure uncut oil has made me want to try it out as well. Just to see if oil will work. I haven't picked up oil in a bit now. Mainly shatter. I'm just waiting until I can throw away a gram of oil to try it out. I remember that stuff leaked bad.

If you're going through an eighth of flowers every other day I definitely think you should go with the pure uncut oil. Assuming it works.

thisperson said:

I guess it depends on how heavy a smoker you are.

I'm a heavy dabber. I use ejmix to mix at ratios of 1.5 wax to 1. It leaves something to be desired still. Like I could use something more powerful. My setup is mainly o.pen cartridges with an istick 50w. I get better clouds out of the protank mini 2 but for some reason don't fill it as much. It has leaked in the past but that was when I was trying to run pure uncut oil.

Seeing someone suggest the K1 for pure uncut oil has made me want to try it out as well. Just to see if oil will work. I haven't picked up oil in a bit now. Mainly shatter. I'm just waiting until I can throw away a gram of oil to try it out. I remember that stuff leaked bad.

If you're going through an eighth of flowers every other day I definitely think you should go with the pure uncut oil. Assuming it works.

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I would just go with the oil, but it's so expensive! Not sure what the price is in MMJ states, but here I'm paying $70 for 0.5ml.

I think I'm going to try the K1 as well. I have had good luck w/ Aspire products, and I definitely feel like the quality of my Nautilus tanks is far superior to that of the Kanger Genitank I purchased. ANd I've never had a leak with either of my Nautilus unless it was my fault not screwing in the coil tight enough.

If it were me, I would fill up the tank with oil and then put it in a shot glass and let it sit overnight. That way if it leaks it will all pool into the shot glass. Just a thought.

The leaking occurs after use or after it is warmed. I doubt it would leak overnight seeing as it's cold.

But I get what you're saying.