The Magic-Flight Box

archangelz001

archangelz001

FIRE!!
Micro-dosing with the MFLB is so easy and efficient. I find that 2 or 3 pulls for 8-10 seconds just gets me ripped, and a full trench is good for 3 sessions. That's why I typically only only put .10grams in my Nano Grinder first, then into the Finishing Grinder atop the LB. That amount is good for several sessions. No waste. Quick on instant off. The most efficient vape ever.
 
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vapirtoo

vapirtoo

Well-Known Member
A dry, fine grind is all the difference in the world.
The finishing grinder only works with really dry material; anything else and it gums up the works.
I look at all the new portables and newbies scrambling around trying to find the perfect VAPE when the little old LB is still here mostly being ignored.
I mean shit, sometimes we are way back on page 2 at the bottom.
Oh well , life goes on.
 
rarissimo

rarissimo

Well-Known Member
My love , My Magic Flight, my collection. more 1 vapor session !
34yry2x.jpg
 
AJS

AJS

Calm Consistency
If one were to rip the mflb screen out and replace it with a maud'dib screen, what would happen?

In relation to that question, what exactly makes the maud'dib so significantly hotter using the same battery.
 
AJS,
little maggie

little maggie

Well-Known Member
Any idea where I can get a bottle rocket or UFO? It looks like you have to join the "club" to order them and I no longer have my MFLB. It went to Vitolo for donation.
 
little maggie,
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Nok21

Well-Known Member
Seeing Magic-Flights new water-filtration line up really makes me regret giving away my old box and PA to a friend.. Who never uses it. :bang:

As much as i hated the shaking, screen cleaning, and all that jazz, I regret it. There. I said it. Too bad its not in me to offer to buy a gift back. :rolleyes:

Next vape is either a new launchbox with that sexy new PA and the bottle rocket to fit over an old bottle of Absinthe, or an enano.. Either way i think i need a new box in the future.

Have they fixed the issue with using concentrate trays in a normal box? I ended up warrantying my first one after I had scortch marks where the copper meets the wood near the mouth piece. I mean, without buying a Dib' of course.
 
Nok21,
Quetzalcoatl

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Nok21 said:
Seeing Magic-Flights new water-filtration line up really makes me regret giving away my old box and PA to a friend.. Who never uses it. :bang:

As much as i hated the shaking, screen cleaning, and all that jazz, I regret it. There. I said it. Too bad its not in me to offer to buy a gift back. :rolleyes:

Next vape is either a new launchbox with that sexy new PA and the bottle rocket to fit over an old bottle of Absinthe, or an enano.. Either way i think i need a new box in the future.

Have they fixed the issue with using concentrate trays in a normal box? I ended up warrantying my first one after I had scortch marks where the copper meets the wood near the mouth piece. I mean, without buying a Dib' of course.
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I have not had that problem with the concentrate trays and my regular LB :/
 
Quetzalcoatl,
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N

Nok21

Well-Known Member
Quetzalcoatl said:
I have not had that problem with the concentrate trays and my regular LB :/
Click to expand...


I did, unfortunately. I have pictures around somewhere, but I'd rather not dig them up again unless you guys really wanted to see it. MFLB replaced it of course, but didn't really seem to understand the issue. Honestly, I noticed a burnt wood taste before the external charring. :shrug:

I used both trays, full melt and solid concentrates. Probably for a month or two straight with high temps, iirc. Its been a while since I gave away my box and PA, but i do believe I was pulsing/using the right technique for high temps. No ash or burnt flavor, even with solid concentrates. God now I'm starting to miss that setup!

If i could go back I'd have just gave that friend cash :lol:

EDIT: I ended up just calling the issue an anomaly because I couldn't find info on any other cases like this.
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
Nok21 said:
MFLB replaced it of course, but didn't really seem to understand the issue. Honestly, I noticed a burnt wood taste before the external charring. :shrug:

Probably for a month or two straight with high temps, iirc.

EDIT: I ended up just calling the issue an anomaly because I couldn't find info on any other cases like this.
Click to expand...

It's not common for sure, first I recall hearing about it anyway.

It makes sense to me. Consider if you applied heat to the center of the tray, say by running current through it, lots of heat. Where does that heat go? Up the gird wires (they're small, but there's a lot of 'em) to the rails (which are steel, BTW). I'd expect to have the rails get hot, eventually hot enough to char the wood which would happen from the contact out (inside so you'd naturally taste it first).

I think you just get credit for pushing harder and longer than those before......congratulations. When the box was first designed and tested neither the trays or PA were in the mix. Not only couldn't you produce the same power, but you naturally didn't push as hard what with shaking, reloading and so on. My 'take' is this is the design limit and easy enough to compensate for?

I say give the little fellow another chance........

OF
 
N

Nok21

Well-Known Member
OF said:
It's not common for sure, first I recall hearing about it anyway.

It makes sense to me. Consider if you applied heat to the center of the tray, say by running current through it, lots of heat. Where does that heat go? Up the gird wires (they're small, but there's a lot of 'em) to the rails (which are steel, BTW). I'd expect to have the rails get hot, eventually hot enough to char the wood which would happen from the contact out (inside so you'd naturally taste it first).

I think you just get credit for pushing harder and longer than those before......congratulations. When the box was first designed and tested neither the trays or PA were in the mix. Not only couldn't you produce the same power, but you naturally didn't push as hard what with shaking, reloading and so on. My 'take' is this is the design limit and easy enough to compensate for?

I say give the little fellow another chance........
Click to expand...

I think I will give this little fellow another chance, and try it maybe as an at home unit with the bottle rocket and PA in the future. Easy to disassemble and hide, or buy extra batteries like I did before. Added to my "Want" list again!

And :doh: I thought the rods were copper for some reason!

But your point is major on the design of the original box and the concentrate trays+PA, I agree 100%. I think if you use it with concentrates, get the Dib' not the trays- unless you already have a lot of boxes laying around.
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
Nok21 said:
And :doh: I thought the rods were copper for some reason!
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At one point they were Copper plated steel IIRC, but our friend Mister Magnet spills the beans.

OF

Edit: There are a couple of other points I should have brought up while we're on the subject. One is from an engineering POV we know they're not pure Copper since Copper makes a truly lousy spring and would therefore never work as the negative ring (we need a very stiff spring there to make reliable contact, Copper is far too soft and malleable. A Copper spring bends and doesn't 'spring back'.

Secondly while the magnet test proves Iron or more likely Steel is involved, not all Stainless Steels are attracted by magnets. Just because it doesn't get attracted doesn't mean it's not steel. Although most of the alloys that make good springs also attract magnets (and the other way around) there are some occasional 'non magnetic' SS springs around (they still have some magnetic properties, you go to Beryllium Copper if it needs to work in a magnetic field without knowing it.

Fun stuff, if materials interest you........

OF
 
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N

Nok21

Well-Known Member
OF said:
At one point they were Copper plated steel IIRC, but our friend Mister Magnet spills the beans.

OF

Edit: There are a couple of other points I should have brought up while we're on the subject. One is from an engineering POV we know they're not pure Copper since Copper makes a truly lousy spring and would therefore never work as the negative ring (we need a very stiff spring there to make reliable contact, Copper is far too soft and malleable. A Copper spring bends and doesn't 'spring back'.

Secondly while the magnet test proves Iron or more likely Steel is involved, not all Stainless Steels are attracted by magnets. Just because it doesn't get attracted doesn't mean it's not steel. Although most of the alloys that make good springs also attract magnets (and the other way around) there are some occasional 'non magnetic' SS springs around (they still have some magnetic properties, you go to Beryllium Copper if it needs to work in a magnetic field without knowing it.

Fun stuff, if materials interest you........

OF
Click to expand...

It does, I like your points and never thought of using a Magnet to test the metals in vapes- time to pick a small, powerful one up.
 
Nok21,
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OF

OF

Well-Known Member
Archaicrevival said:
Oh I assumed the oring sealed the unit to prevent air leaks.
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Nope, all it does is retain the top of the screen. If you look close you'll see the ring stops maybe 1/16 inch short of the plastic cover, while the screen is under it at the bottom, the screen doesn't stick past the top. FWIW you can't have a seal to the cover anyway, since there's an air duct at about 'one o'clock' (a shallow groove in the wood) that lets air into the bowl so you can hit it. If it was sealed you'd get red in the face trying to draw.

The first MFLBs didn't have this ring and over time the screen would pull away from the wood. BTW, those first ones didn't have the little light bulb (it's not an LED...) either.

OF
 
Archaicrevival

Archaicrevival

Well-Known Member
OF said:
Nope, all it does is retain the top of the screen. If you look close you'll see the ring stops maybe 1/16 inch short of the plastic cover, while the screen is under it at the bottom, the screen doesn't stick past the top. FWIW you can't have a seal to the cover anyway, since there's an air duct at about 'one o'clock' (a shallow groove in the wood) that lets air into the bowl so you can hit it. If it was sealed you'd get red in the face trying to draw.

The first MFLBs didn't have this ring and over time the screen would pull away from the wood. BTW, those first ones didn't have the little light bulb (it's not an LED...) either.

OF
Click to expand...
The monocle edition doesn't have a groove for airflow.
 
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